I’ve lived in Warsaw all my life, but I’ve never felt particularly welcome in Praga” Said Tomasz, with no attempt to dispel the horror stories that I had heard about the neighbourhood. “It’s as if they know you’re an outsider from the other side of the river.”
We were crossing the Vistula via the Śląsko-Dąbrowski bridge, heading from the well-trodden tourist path of Warsaw’s Old Town over to the less-visited right bank. From here it didn’t look so terrifying, hidden behind the lush, green parkland lining the other side of the river, only the dual steeples of the Cathedral of St. Michael the Archangel and St. Florian the Martyr tall enough to be visible behind the treeline.
Described as ‘edgy’ at best and ‘dangerous’ at worst, Praga has long been considered off-limits to tourists. In fact, Tomasz, our tour guide for the afternoon, informs us that even many native Varsovians consider a night out in Praga a little too gritty for comfort. I suppose their fears are warranted. For decades this area has been home to Warsaw’s poorest, living in dilapidated, crumbling tenement blocks on streets run by criminal gangs. It even earned itself the nickname “The Bermuda Triangle.”
It is no surprise then that people here can seem a little frosty to outsiders. While Warsaw’s left bank has been booming in terms of development and regeneration, Praga has been left in the cold, regarded as derelict and beyond-repair by officials.
Both politically and geographically, Praga has always been separate from Warsaw proper. With the inability to build a bridge over the Vistula (people could only cross when the river iced over in the depths of winter, or by boat in the summer), they remained independent towns until they were united by King Stanislaw August Poniatowski in 1791. Praga’s new-found status wasn’t to last long; just 3 years later, during the Battle of Praga, the invading Russian Army massacred 20,000 residents and razed the whole district. You can see why they feel hard done by.
A Walking Tour of Warsaw’s Jewish HeritageOur first stop was a remnant of that Russian occupation; St. Mary Magdalene on Solidarnosc Avenue, a Russian Orthodox Church built on the site of a destroyed Cathedral to show Russian dominance over Catholic Poland. It’s a beautiful, Byzantine structure that somehow managed to survive WWII with minimal damage.
Just across the road from St. Mary Magdalene is the districts most important church, the Cathedral of St. Michael the Archangel and St. Florian the Martyr. Not only is it a symbol of the district, but it is also a sign of Praga’s independence and defiance against foreign rule. it was built in the 19th century in response to the forced Russification of Poland under Tsarist occupation, its spires designed to dwarf the nearby Orthodox church. Unfortunately, it was not so lucky during the war, with only its external walls and the statues of its two saints surviving.
The district itself ended the war a little more intact. The Russian army arrived in Praga in July 1944 but stopped at the Vistula, famously leaving the Polish home army to fend for themselves as the centre of the city was systematically demolished by the Nazis following the Warsaw Uprising. That total devastation of downtown Warsaw means that the whole of the left bank, including the ‘Old Town’, is practically brand new, while Praga is all that remains of the pre-war city. It is genuinely old, decrepit and antique.
Cracked window panes and faded, peeling paint hide the art nouveau grandeur that was once on display. Facades are pocked with bullet holes that are yet to be covered over 70 years after they were first shot into the rendering. Some streets are very much in the same condition that they were in 1945. It is because of this that Roman Polanski decided to use Praga as the filming location for his Oscar-nominated film “The Pianist”, substituting Mala and Konopack streets for the Warsaw Ghetto. Standing on those streets now, you can see why they were chosen. Only the satellite dishes dotting the buildings and the modern cars parked on the street indicate that it is, in fact, the 21st century.
Tomasz led us through a maze of overgrown gateways, dank alleys and up dusty stairwells so that we could catch a brief glimpse of pre-war Praga. Fading frescoes sit unnoticed in the district’s nooks & crannies, and candles still flicker beside statues of the Virgin Mary in hidden courtyards. There are still over 100 of these little chapels dotted around the area. They were erected to stand in for bombed-out churches during the Nazi occupation but still get used today.
In one of the district’s courtyards – at 56 Targowa street – Tomasz wanted to show us how the neighbourhood is slowly changing. He pushed aside the heavy wooden doors and ushered us inside. This tenement block, adjacent to the city’s oldest market, Rozycki Bazaar, has been part of the area since 1865 and has an important history. It was built by Karol Juliusz Minter, owner of the foundry that created Warsaw’s famed mermaid sculpture. Unfortunately, as with much of Warsaw’s tenements, it fell into disrepair following the war but recently it has had new life breathed into its walls. The small courtyard inside had been completely painted in a rainbow of bright colours and dotted with planters of cascading green foliage.
This is typical of modern Praga. As property prices rise in the city centre, the area has seen an influx of students and artists searching for cheap accommodation and decrepit Praga is one of the few places with a low enough price point. With them, they have brought a burgeoning art scene. 56 Targowa street is just one example. Tomasz explained how this building stood empty and so art students had commandeered this tiny space to put on a fashion show. A runway was set up through the centre and in one corner, a bar served drinks while in the other, DJs played.
In typical Praga fashion, not all of the residents have been happy with this bohemian invasion, failing to embrace the influx of art and culture. They feel that it is diluting the historic feel of the neighbourhood, that the youth are changing their streets without consulting them. At the moment though, the revitalisation of the right bank seems unstoppable. It is bursting with life and quickly becoming one of Europe’s new creative capitals.
Fabryka Trzciny has long been considered the catalyst that kickstarted Praga’s resurgence. Formerly a factory producing marmalade, then sausages, and finally running shoes, the derelict building was bought by TV producer Wojciech Trzcinsk and transformed into an art centre. It now houses bars and auditoriums and is regularly used for cinema screenings, art shows and gigs. It started a trend that has continued throughout Praga.
The following day I wanted to explore a little more of this burgeoning art scene without the burden of a large tour group, so took the number 26 tram from Warsaw’s old town towards the Soho Factory. This massive post-industrial site, formerly home to the Pocisk Munitions Factory and Warsaw Motorcycle Factory, has been completely reclaimed as an artistic sub-district. Not only can you find some of the city’s best restaurants, like Mateusz Gessler’s Warszawa Wschodnia, there are also creative studios, museums, theatres as well as organic food markets and cultural events. Unfortunately, when on the day that I visited the market was closed and there were no art shows, festivals or cinema screenings taking place, but it was worth my time to wander around none-the-less and look at the brightly coloured Trabant cars parked out front beside huge, discarded lettering from old neon signs.
It is the neon signs, and more specifically the Neon Museum, that attracts most visitors to this part of Praga.
The first neon sign in Warsaw was lit in 1926. In the inter-war period, there was a proliferation of this kind of sign, resulting in almost 70 illuminating the streets. After Stalin’s death, the ‘Khrushchev Thaw’ of the 1950s and 60s ushered in a time of “neonisation”. Warsaw, still in ruins and shrouded in darkness, was to become the European capital of neons. Soon the city was bathed in a magical neon glow. The advertisements became a symbol of the ‘culturally relaxed’ post-Stalinist Poland.
In 2004, David Hill and his partner Ilona Karwinska were so struck by the remaining neons that they decided to document them. One thing led to another and they even began to acquire old signs, often rusting and in disrepair. Ilona found it so hard to see many of the signs being destroyed that she decided to save as many as possible, eventually amassing enough to open the collection up to the public. One of the Polish capital’s quirkiest, and best, museums was born.
We finished our tour with Tomasz at 11 Listopada no. 22, another former factory that had been transformed into a new communal art space and nightspot. The crumbling, bullet-pocked walls have been adorned with graffiti and swathes of fairy lights roped across the outdoor seating area. You can see here why Praga is at the cutting edge of Warsaw’s nightlife, attracting revellers from every corner of the city. 11 Listopada is now home to 4 bars and a new, art-themed hostel, Hostel Fabryka. Inside we found artists at work, painting panoramic, industrial landscapes of Praga. It seemed a fitting end to the tour; to see the old Praga merging with the new, to create something truly unique that the residents can celebrate. The inclusion of a hostel shows just how the neighbourhood is hoping to attract as many visitors as possible.
It may be gritty, bohemian, and at times, unwelcoming, but wandering around Praga you can’t help but feel that this is the real city. The pulse and energy of Praga are palpable as the youth breath new life into what was once a down-trodden and derelict neighbourhood. Away from the beautiful old town architecture, among the tower blocks and tumbledown tenements is an artsy underbelly that you need to visit. ‘Up-and-coming’ is a phrase that is thrown around a lot, and while Praga is still light-years away from being the next Dalston or Brooklyn, that is exactly why it is so charming. A visit to Praga no longer has that same sense of danger and maybe, finally, they are ready to embrace both change and a new influx of visitors.
Where to Stay in Praga
Hostel Fabryka
While the location of this hostel is perfect for those looking to sample the best of Praga’s nightlife – it sits beside 4 bars and nightclubs at 11 Listopada no. 22 – it also has a lot more to offer than just drinking and partying. The formerly derelict building has been transformed into a chic, minimalist space containing both dorm and private rooms, communal areas and even artist’s studios.
The Best Things to See & Do in Praga
Warsaw Zoo
The last thing I expected to see when entering Praga on Aleja Solidarności was a bear standing on the roadside. Strangely enough, Praga zoo backs straight onto this traffic-filled thoroughfare and the bears can be seen living on an island at the edge of Praski Park with just a small moat separating the 180Kg beasts from the passing pedestrians I saw it maybe as a sign of the districts less welcoming nature, a warning to scare off visitors, but Tomasz informed me that we were lucky to see them as they are usually much more elusive.
Even if, like me, you are not a fan of zoos or confined animals, Warsaw zoo is interesting in a historical context. The villa at the centre of the complex is where zoo director Jan Żabiński and his family hid over 200 Jews during WWII, ultimately saving them from the Nazis.
Bazar Różyckiego
Warsaw’s oldest market, Bazar Różyckiego was once considered the best place to shop in the city. Unfortunately, it is now a shadow of its former self but it is a great place to get a glimpse of local life in Praga. Although the black market thrived here under Nazi and communist regimes, you are now more likely to find stacks of shoes, tacky homewares and kitsch ornaments.
Soho Factory
What was once a huge industrial complex containing the Pocisk Munitions Factory and Warsaw Motorcycle Factory is now home to a new, artistic sub-district of the city. Not only can you find some of the city’s best restaurants, like Mateusz Gessler’s Warszawa Wschodnia, there are also creative studios, museums, theatres and on a weekend you can visit the organic food market. Keep an eye on the factory’s cultural calendar for events such as film screenings and music festivals.
Muzeum Warszawskiej Pragi
Housed at Ulica Targowa 50/52, in one of the city’s oldest residential blocks, The Museum of Warsaw Praga used to be one of the prayer houses for the local Jewish community but now contains exhibitions detailing the history of the neighbourhood. The Hall of History is a timeline of the right-bank taking you from the 16th century up until today, while on the first hall you can find The Praga Market Hall which explains the commercial traditions of the district.
Where to Drink in Praga
W Oparach Absurdu (In The Mists of Absurdity)
If there was ever a bar that lived up to its name, then it’s this one. Think bright colours, kitsch knick-knacks and rooms filled with flea market furniture. W Oparach Absurdu is spread through several rooms with a mezzanine accessible up a rickety staircase where you will usually find local bohemians and students relaxing with a book over a coffee or one of the small, but good, selection of local craft beers.
11 Listopada no. 22
A cool courtyard in the centre of Praga that’s home to several bars, clubs and art spaces, Although I visited in Winter, I can imagine it’s a great place to spend the evening during a warm summer night when you can drink in the graffiti-covered courtyard under the glowing strings of fairy lights. Here you can find Hydrozagadka, Saturator, Zwiazmnie, and Sklad Butelek. Most are free entry so expect the area to be populated primarily by students.
Fabryka Trzciny
Formerly a marmalade and canning plant, before becoming a rubber manufacturer and later a shoe factory, the building that is now Fabryka Trzciny has seen a lot of change since it was built in 1916. The factory was renovated and reopened as an art centre in 2003 and is seen as the catalyst that kickstarted Praga’s resurgence. Spread over two floors you will find a cafe, bar and a huge concert space.
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