If I was to describe traditional Polish food in just one word, ‘Hearty’ is what comes to mind. The second word that sits on the tip of my tongue and is bound to follow is ‘stodgy’.
Polish cuisine has a lot in common with food from its central European Neighbours of Germany, Czechia and Slovakia and like them, has recipes that have been occupying the nation’s menus for centuries, much of them incredibly meat-heavy and loaded with mountains of potatoes and dairy. We’re taking hearty soups, dumplings and stews loaded with sausage, beetroot, sauerkraut, cabbage and sour cream.
However, there is more to Warsaw’s menus than pierogi, bigos and smoked cheeses. When you consider the nation’s tumultuous history, the way that its borders have continuously shifted for hundreds of years under the rule of various empires, it only makes sense that the national dishes are heavily influenced by food from elsewhere. Add to this the traditions of Poland’s Jewish population, plus the relatively new Turkish and Italian immigrants, and you have a wide range of delicious options.
It’s still easy to get hold of fantastic Polish food in the restaurant, pubs and milk bars of Warsaw, but the tastes of its population have long since moved on. The culinary scene in the city is vibrant and progressive and only seems to get better year on year.
Where to Eat in Warsaw
While many people visiting Warsaw will be out hunting specifically for some wonderous pierogi, like any bustling European capital, Warsaw offers a spectacular range of eating experiences in the city’s burgeoning culinary scene. For more traditional Polish fare, look no further than the taverns and touristy bistros in the old town or the dour and intriguing milk bars, but head away from the well-trodden castle square and you’ll be spoilt for choice with everything from curry houses and french bakeries to Mexican street food and hipster burger spots. Obviously, I found it hard to research all of the city’s dining options in 4 days, but below are a few places that were recommended to me by Varsovians that are a little more in-the-know than me.
Hala Koszyki
The first of its kind in Warsaw, Hala Koszyki takes the food hall concept that is ever popular in other European capitals such as Copenhagen and Amsterdam and ramps it up.
There are 18 eateries crammed inside the revitalised, century-old, art nouveau market hall; Some of the city’s finest independent restaurants, bars and bakeries sit next to a selection Poland’s largest chains. There’s even a street food bazaar, meaning that there is a good choice of food and drink catering to every taste or budget. For international fare, there’s Tuk Tuk, which serves up aromatic Thai dishes like a duck in tamarind sauce or Thai-style beef tenderloin, and Curry Leaves, possibly the best place in the city to pick up authentic Indian food. If you head here in search of Polish food, you can’t do much better than Warszawski Sen by chef Mateusz Gessler.
Even if you don’t plan on eating here, it is worth taking the time to wander around the beautiful market hall and admire the architecture – originally put together by Juliusz Dzierżanowski – as well as pop up to the upper level and check out the shops and temporary exhibitions that are regularly on rotation.
Where: Koszykowa 63.
Opening Times: Daily 8am – 1am, although opening times of different outlets vary.
Milk Bars
Milk bars, or bar mleczny in Polish, may seem like a communist throwback and in some ways, they are. These government subsidised canteens serve hearty, traditional cuisine and blossomed during the post-war period as one of the few places that could guarantee a hot, nutritious meal – usually meat and potatoes, soups, vegetables, pierogi and as the name suggests, dairy.
Although not much has changed for them in terms of food, decor or service, their cheap, homely meals are still popular today. For tourists, they’re a perfect place to taste old-fashioned Polish food and get a feel for what the country was like before the iron curtain fell. For others, they’re a place to get a nostalgia fix or substantial home-cooked dish. I love milk bars. For just a few złoty it is possible to eat like a king.
Read More: Milk Bars & Neon
The best milk bars I visited were Bambino (Hoża 19, 00-521 Warszawa, open 8am – 8pm), Rusałka (Floriańska 14, open 9am – 5.30pm), and Prasowy (Marszałkowska 10/16, open 9am – 8pm weekdays or 11am – 7pm on weekends).
Charlotte Chleb i Wino
This wonderful French bakery sits on Plac Zbawiciela with tables and chairs spilling out into a square that’s dominated by the beautiful Church of the Holiest Savior. Serving breakfast all day from 7am until late, they dish out a good selection of pastries, breakfast dishes, salads and sandwiches. It is also the perfect place to sit with a glass of wine or bubbly on a hot summer evening, watching the trams whizz by.
Where: Aleja Wyzwolenia 18/2U.
Opening Times: Mon to Thurs 7am – 12am; Fri 7am – 1am; Sat 8am – 1am; Sun 8am – 10pm.
Zapiecek
Seemingly always packed with the occasional queue trailing out of the door, Zapiecek focuses on pierogi and traditional Polish cuisine, selling itself to the tourist masses with a traditional Polish aesthetic – waitresses in old-fashioned, stereotypical outfits and décor with a strong cottage vibe. Yes, it’s a little kitsch, but I was told by my walking tour guide that it is the best place in Warsaw’s old town to get decent pierogi at a reasonable price. There’s also a small, street-level takeaway hatch if you want to get your pierogi on the go.
Where: Krakowskie Przedmieście 55.
Opening Times: Sun to Thurs 11am – 11pm; Fri 7am – 1am; Fri & Sat 11am – 12am.
Warsaw Night Market (Nocny Market)
Warsaw’s Nocny Market (Night Market) brings together some of the city’s most popular bars, restaurants and street food vendors in one spot: a disused train station (Warszawa Główna) right in the centre of downtown Warsaw. Some of the old railway paraphernalia remains, but mostly the site has had a complete facelift meaning and neon signage and street art adorn the once-bare, concrete platforms. Every evening, DJs and bands provide the soundtrack and there are multiple bars serving up cocktails and craft beer. You can even get a tattoo at one of the stalls if you forgot to get one before you came.
The site can be a little difficult to find. To get there, hop off a tram or bus at Pl. Zawiszy and walk towards the long alley with ‘Warszawa Główna’ emblazoned on the building.
Mango Vegan Street Food
For a country where the traditional cuisine can be fairly heavy on the meat, Mango has cultivated somewhat of a cult following in Warsaw for its cheap and cheerful vegan dishes. The menu is a mix of Arabic and Israeli influences such as falafel and mezze but they also do a good range of burgers and smoothies. The original restaurant is on Bracka, near to the city’s main thoroughfare of Jerozolimskie Avenue, but they have also opened a few more dotted around the capita including a branch in Hala Koszyki.
Where: Bracka 20.
Opening Times: Daily 11am – 10pm
Where to Drink in Warsaw
Although many people associate Poland with vodka (and believe me, there are hundreds of shot bars dotted around the capital), Warsaw has some of the best nightlife in Europe. Some of the more glamorous, upmarket bars and clubs can be found around Pl. Piłsudskiego and Pl. Teatralny, while the hipsters and students tend to congregate in the up and coming neighbourhoods across the river such as Praga and increasingly gentrified Kępa district. If you’re looking for a quieter evening, the old town has its fair share of traditional pubs and craft beer lover’s are in for a treat; The country’s craft beer scene is booming, meaning the area just east of Centrum metro station is a prime location for a decent pub crawl.
Same Krafty
Located just a short stagger from the old town’s Market Square, Same Krafty – with its stylish ambience and seriously good beer menu – is the perfect place to settle with a drink and rest your feet after a hard day of sightseeing. So much so that it became my little home from home while visiting the city. Despite its old town location, it isn’t a tourist trap. The prices are reasonable and you will find just as many locals drinking in there as tourists. Up front is a dining room where they serve a small selection of pizzas and burgers, but most people come to settle for a few in the cosy taproom in the back. The bartenders are welcoming and knowledgeable and the beer selection is great. Although there are only 8 taps, they have a well-stocked fridge with dozens of different brews, mostly polish.
Where: Nowomiejska 10
Opening Times: Mon to Weds 2pm – 11pm; Thurs 1pm – 12am; Fri & Sat 1pm – 1am; Sun 12pm – 12am.
W Oparach Absurdu (In The Mists of Absurdity)
If there was ever a bar that lived up to its name, then it’s this one. Think bright colours, kitsch knick-knacks and rooms filled with flea market furniture. W Oparach Absurdu is spread through several rooms with a mezzanine accessible up a rickety staircase where you will usually find local bohemians and students relaxing with a book over a coffee or one of the small, but good, selection of local craft beers.
Where: Ząbkowska 6, Praga
Opening Times: Mon to Thurs 12pm – 2am; Fri & Sat 12pm – 4am; Sun 12pm – 12am
PiwPaw
PiwPaw is a giant of the Warsaw craft beer scene. I mean this both figuratively and literally. It is constantly heaving with people and has a seriously massive beer selection – 91 (yes that’s right, 91!) drinks on tap and a couple of fridges with plenty more. It may not be the best place for the indecisive drinker but with such a vast choice and the option to taste any of the beers for 1zl, you don’t really have an excuse for not finding something you like. Although huge, it gets full pretty early on in the night so it is always best to reserve a table if you are drinking there with friends.
Where: Żurawia 32/34
Opening Times: Open 24 hours a day (apparently).
Kufle i Kapsle
My personal favourite and one of the more seasoned establishments on this list. It sits on a street of busy bars, competing with the likes of Jabeerwocky and the nearby PiwPaw. However, despite PiwPaw having the numbers, Kufle i Kapsle has the variety. They serve a good mix of established names and up-and-coming local breweries and the 16 taps are on constant rotation, meaning no two evenings will be the same. Luckily, the tasting trays mean you won’t have to stick to one and the friendly staff are always happy to help you choose. Did I mention that they also have 150 bottle options to choose from?
Where: Nowogrodzka 25
Opening Times: Mon to Thurs 2pm – 2am; Fri 2pm – 4am; Sat 12pm – 4am; Sun 12pm – 2am
Cuda Na Kiju
There aren’t many stranger places to enjoy a cold one than the former Communist Party headquarters but with Cuda Na Kiju, that’s exactly what you can do. There’s nothing particularly soviet feeling about this bar though as it now boasts airy floor to ceiling windows in which the menu is scrawled in white marker, 16 taps and even pinball machines in its minimalist interior.
Where: Nowy Świat 6/12
Opening Times: Mon to Thurs 12pm – 1am; Fri & Sat 12pm – 3am; Sun 12pm – 12am
11 Listopada no. 22
A cool courtyard in the centre of Praga that’s home to several bars, clubs and art spaces, Although I visited in Winter, I can imagine it’s a great place to spend the evening during a warm summer night when you can drink in the graffiti-covered courtyard under the glowing strings of fairy lights. Here you can find Hydrozagadka, Saturator, Zwiazmnie, and Sklad Butelek. Most are free entry so expect the area to be populated primarily by students.
Where: Nowy Świat 6/12
Opening Times: Mon to Thurs 12pm – 1am; Fri & Sat 12pm – 3am; Sun 12pm – 12am
Fabryka Trzciny
Formerly a marmalade and canning plant, before becoming a rubber manufacturer and later a shoe factory, the building that is now Fabryka Trzciny has seen a lot of change since it was built in 1916. The factory was renovated and reopened as an art centre in 2003 and is seen as the catalyst that kick-started Praga’s resurgence. Spread over two floors you will find a cafe, bar and a huge concert space.
Where to Stay in Warsaw
Being a huge city, Warsaw has dozens of low-cost accommodation options and finding the right one – a hostel that is both in a good location and well-reviewed – can be a bit of a gamble. However, for every poorly rated hostel, the Polish capital has an abundance of great ones. For something a little more upmarket, the huge selection of apartments dotted throughout the city are possibly the best option, although excellent hotels can be found around the Old Town and Royal Route.
Safestay Hostel (formerly DREAM)
DREAM hostel is perfectly located on Krakowskie Przedmiescie, or the historic Royal Route, just a 2-minute stroll from the heart of the old town. It is possibly one of the cleanest, best-equipped hostels I have stayed in. The top floor bar and common area are social, but still pretty relaxed. The hostel is ideal for travellers that want to meet other backpackers but avoid a non-stop party atmosphere.
Oki Doki
Warsaw’s biggest, and arguably most popular hostel has two locations in the city. The massive 140-bed Oki Doki features individually designed, themed rooms as well as an onsite bar. It has a reputation for being a bit of a party hostel, so those looking for somewhere a little quieter can head to Oki Doki Old Town which is a little more elegant, modern, and subdued. Both hostels organise different activities each day, such as pub crawls, city tours, and pierogi cooking lessons.
B&B Autor Rooms
The stylish and minimal B&B Autor Rooms is located just a short hop from Ujazdowski Park in the South of the city and features beautifully designed rooms as well as a shared lounge, a terrace, and a shared kitchen.
