Traditional Czech Food in Pilsen: What to Eat & Where to Find it

Last Updated July 15, 2023
Europe, Czech Republic

Similar to much of central and eastern Europe, Czechia has a very traditional cuisine consisting mostly of meat, dumplings, and root vegetables. However, thanks to their reliance on fantastic soups and sauces, their menus are never boring.

There’s no denying that Pilsen is famed more for its beer than its cuisine, but anyone that is visiting the city to indulge in the well-established pub culture is bound to find themselves pouring over a menu of Czech dishes with incomprehensible names in the hunt for a plate of something to line their stomach and counteract the effect of too many glasses of Pilsner.

Luckily, Czechs like to pair their food with the ubiquitous Czech beer, rather than the other way around, and their rich, stodgy, meat-heavy meals are the perfect thing to keep you sustained throughout an extended drinking session.

But what is considered traditional Czech cuisine? Mostly, the menus items have been collected throughout the centuries and adapted from dishes served in neighbouring nations. The sauerkraut and dumplings that have become Czech classics were adopted from the Germans while from the 16th century when Bohemia was ruled by the Austrian King Ferdinand I, schnitzels and strudels became staples. Considering present-day Czechia is well connected to other central and eastern European countries, it is no surprise that culinary influences have arrived from elsewhere and since become a big part of forming the national food identity.

Here are some of the ‘must-try’ dishes that you should sample while in Czechia.

10 Traditional Czech Dishes to Try in Pilsen

Smažený Sýr (Fried Cheese)

Any vegetarian visiting Czechia will be able to tell you that their options can be fairly limited when it comes to finding traditional Czech food that fits with their diet. It doesn’t help that the most famous of all the nation’s meat-free dishes contains no actual vegetables. However, there is beauty in its simplicity. Take one thick slice of Edam cheese, cover it in breadcrumbs, then fry to create a rich, gooey dish that is as comforting as it is calorific. If you’re going to try this hearty cheese dish anywhere in the Czech Republic, then it’s advised that you head over to one of the Lokál chain of pubs, such as Pod Divadlem in Pilsen. They apparently age their cheeses in house for six weeks before pan-frying in butter and it is said that one of their pubs in Prague can sell up to 500 cheesy slabs per day. A similar dish is Smažené Tvarůžky where, instead of using edam, the recipe calls for round slices of a strong, smelly cheese from Olomouc made from fat-free sour curd.

Pečené Vepřové Koleno (Roast Pork Knee/Knuckle)

Czech cuisine is often criticised as being too rich, heavy, and lacking vegetables and pork knee certainly isn’t the dish to change people’s minds. It is usually served with little more than a side of horseradish, mustard, and maybe some plump, stodgy dumplings.

Traditionally, rural cottages in Czechia always contained a kitchen with an open fire and a wood fired oven, and it was this that especially led to the popularity of the pork knuckle. These so-called ‘black kitchens’ with their open fires became increasingly widespread in the country during the 18th century and pork knuckle was an easy dish to prepare that fed an entire family.

The knuckle is normally pre-cooked first in a spiced vegetable broth before it is slow roasted to make sure the meat is so well-cooked inside that it falls easily off the bone, while the outer skin becomes crisp and golden.

Although considered a traditional Czech dish, pork knee/knuckle can also be found in neighbouring Bavaria and Austria.

Svíčková na Smetaně (Beef in Vegetable Sauce)

First appearing on Czech menus in 1805 and taking heavy inspiration from both Bavarian cuisine and traditional French cooking techniques, this beef dish has gone on to become a staple of the nation’s cuisine. It is made with marinated beef tenderloin in a creamy vegetable sauce that contains carrots, celery and parsley root, topped with sour cream, cranberry compote and a side of bread dumplings. However, like with any traditional dish, what constitutes a great svickova is a well-argued minefield and the versions I ate during my time in Czechia varied wildly. Occasionally the creamy liquor was not too dissimilar to a chip shop curry sauce while other times it was reminiscent of a rich vegetable soup. While each one was delicious in is own way, a restaurants variation can be very personal and often tied to an old family recipe.

Tatarák (Beef Sirloin Tartare)

The thought of raw beef mince can often strike fear in the hearts of diners, but steak tartare is a Czech classic and goes surprisingly well with a cold class of pilsner. It consists of minced beef mixed with salt, pepper, diced onion, garlic, paprika, ketchup, and mustard all moulded into a patty and topped with a raw egg. Tatarák is always served with fried bread and you are supposed to treat it as a spread.

Česnečka (Garlic Soup)

Soups and sauces are staples in Czech cooking and a cursory glance at any pub menu in Pilsen will reveal a wide array of soup dishes. Kulajda (pronounced “ku-lay-dah”) is a classic – a creamy potato soup with mushrooms, dill, vinegar, and topped with a poached egg – as is bramboračka, made with root vegetables, dried mushrooms, and a mix of spices. However, my favourite has to be garlic soup, also known as česnečka. The Czechs are firm believers that garlic is the cure for all ills (particualrly hangovers) which may be why is features so heavily in their cuisine. Cesnečka features a lot of it, so much so that I could smell my soup emerging from the kitchen before I even caught a glimpse of the bowl. Alongside the huge amounts of garlic, this comforting soup can also contain small pieces of sausage, croutons, and a raw egg that is added near the end of the cooking process to boil in the heat of the soup.

Řízek (Schnitzel)

Schnitzel may be more commonly thought of as a dish from Austria, Germany, or even parts of northern Italy, but the Czech version, řízek, is still particularly popular throughout Czechia and often served as part of a hearty Sunday meal.

While the Austrian wiener schnitzel is exclusively made from veal, řízek more commonly uses thin slices of tenderised pork chops or chicken and turkey breasts. These are then seasoned with salt, pepper, and garlic before they are coated with flour, beaten eggs, and breadcrumbs and fried until golden brown in a pan of melted butter.

The typical side dish for a Czech schnitzel – potato salad – isn’t much healthier than the main attraction. This potato salad consists of a mixture of potatoes, vegetables, hard-boiled eggs, onions and pickles all churned with an enormous dollop of mayo, mustard and pickle brine.

Apple Strudel

Another dish that is most often associated with Austrian cuisine, Strudel is also a traditional pastry that is common in all areas formerly belonging to the Austro-Hungarian Empire. It gained popularity in the 18th century through the Habsburg Empire and can still be found on menus throughout the brew pubs of Pilsen.

Czech Guláš (Goulash)

Like both schnitzel & strudel, goulash is a dish closely associated with one particular country – in this case Hungary – but is shared all across the former Austro-Hungarian Empire. The Czech version is similar to those found in neighbouring nations but comes in a slightly thicker sauce and usually uses a cheaper cut of beef or pork. It is also unique in that it is served with bread dumplings. While goulash, in its simplest form, is a fairly simple recipe, every pub in the Czech Republic seems to have its own way of making this classic and they can vary wildly. That said, goulash is consistently a safe bet and solid meal choice when frequenting a Czech restaurant as most eateries will serve a decent approximation.

Vepřo Knedlo Zelo (Pork, Dumplings and Sauerkraut)

Despite originating in Bavaria, Vepřo Knedlo Zelo (translated simply as pork, dumplings, and sauerkraut) is considered by many to be the Czech national dish. The pork neck is usually slow roasted with spices, onions, and garlic resulting in juicy pieces of tender pork meat smothered in delicious juices that is then served with – you guessed it – stewed sauerkraut and dumplings.

Roast Rabbit Leg with Garlic

You may have guessed from previous dishes on this list, that Czech cuisine is very meat-heavy, including meats that we don’t typically eat often in western-Europe. One such meat is rabbit. For us, rabbits are more commonly thought of as cuddly house pets but the dish of roast rabbit has an important place in traditional Czech and Slovakian cooking history, particularly throughout the 20th century when domestic rabbit breeding was widespread and most people kept a pig, rabbits, and chickens in their backyard. Rabbit is a lean meat, and can tend to be a little dry, so it was generally roasted slowly in the oven, stewed on the stove, or prepared in sauce. The rabbit head and giblets were then used to prepare a rich white soup. The best place to sample this classic dish is in Pilsen’s Purkmistr Brewery where it is marinated in garlic and served alongside stewed spinach and plump dumplings.

Where to Eat Traditional Czech Cuisine in Pilsen

Pilsen’s city centre is packed with beautiful, historic pubs. As expected, most of them specialise in lovingly poured pints of local pilsner alongside extensive menus of Czech delicacies. Here are some of the best for beer lovers and fans of Bohemian cuisine:

Lékárna

Sitting just off Náměstí Republiky, the building that is now home to Lékárna is steeped in history. Once the brewing house Lékárna U černého orla – famous as one of the highest quality malt-houses in the city – and then a pharmacy, it was designed and modified under the watchful eye of the architect Vít Spálenský. Nowadays it hosts two bars serving local Pilsners direct from the tank by finalist of the Pilsner Urquell Master Bartender Competition, Míra Nekolný, and first vice-champion barmaid from 2015, Martina Navrátilová.

The food is a modern take on traditional Austrian and Bavarian cuisine crafted by Michelin chef Patrik Jaros including Lékárna´s legendary tafelspitz, baked marrow bones, an Austrian gröstl, or the Czech classic of sirloin in cream sauce.

U Salzmannů

The oldest pub in Pilsen has been serving cold glasses of foamy-headed beer since 1637. It oozes classic Bohemian character and the skilled barmen will happily serve you a glass of pilsner in one of four traditional styles: Hladinka, Šnyt, Mlìko, or čochtan. Alongside great beer, the menu features an extensive list of Czech specialities.

U Mansfelda

Like many Pilsner Urquell gastropubs, a round, copper bar sits at the centre of U Mansfelda, surrounded by a laidback, cosy interior where the walls are adorned with framed beer advertisements and old, black and white images of Pilsen of times gone by. If the weather allows, take a seat outside on the terrace that overlooks a section of the pretty parkland which encircles the old town.

Na Parkánu

Attracting a steady stream of both tourists and locals, Pivovarský šenk Na Parkánu occupies one of Pilsen’s original brewing houses and is directly connected to the city’s Brewery Museum. Sitting at the edge of the old town at the end of picturesque Veleslavínova Street, Na Parkánu recently underwent an extensive renovation and is now a must-visit for beer lovers. While it can get a little rowdy on an evening, the food is as much of an attraction as the traditional lager and unfiltered pilsners – expect wonderful soups, plump dumplings, and some fantastic meat dishes.

Na Spilce

There is no better place to sample Pilsner Urquell than at the source and so Na Spilce is an essential stop when visiting Pilsen. Occupying a former fermentation cellar in the courtyard of the Pilsner Urquell Brewery – the ‘spilka’ – the vaulted ceilings of Na Spilce can host up to 550 diners, making it the largest gastropub in all of Bohemia. Here you can sample eight different draught beers while gorging on a menu of Czech classics such as beer goulash, rolled Přeštice pork brisket, and rabbit ragu.

Restaurace Purkmistr

Set amongst the copper brewing kettles of one of Pilsen’s finest craft breweries, the beer hall of Purkmistr offers a beautiful take on traditional Czech dishes alongside beer served through a tapping device connected directly to the brewery’s lager tanks. Make sure to sample a tasting tray of beers while you are there and ask for a quick tour of the brewery that is located in the restaurant’s cellar.

Dave McClane

Dave McClane is a photographer and travel writer from Leeds, UK. In 2014 he packed his bags and set off on the adventure of a lifetime around Latin America. Since then, he hasn’t stopped wandering the planet, camera in hand, getting lost.

David McClane is a photographer and travel writer based in Leeds, UK. Since first picking up a camera on a yearlong journey through Central and South America in 2014/2015, He has carefully documented his travels through over 50 countries.