During term time, when the prestigious campus of the country’s second oldest university is thronging with students, the picturesque streets of Olomouc display a vibrancy and buzzy nightlife scene that is relatively unique to similar academic enclaves.
After all, Olomouc is a youthful city, which is a stark contrast to the historic legacy on display throughout the old town. It’s the second most important monument zone in the Czech Republic after Prague and contains a smattering of UNESCO heritage sites, as well as some of Moravia’s most impressive religious structures where visitors can delve deeper into the region’s past. It’s purely thanks to the ancient university, and the city’s spiritual and cultural traditions that Olomouc is such an underrated destination, despite only receiving a smattering of foreign visitors.
With any city where the demographic skews towards the sprightly and young, pubs, clubs, and bars have sprung up everywhere to serve their partying needs; hostinecs, hospodas, pajzl, minipivovars and výčeps are abundant here with many of them showcasing some of the finest craft beers and microbreweries that the Czech Republic has to offer, some that embrace the storied traditions and history of their home town, and others looking at widening their horizons with experimental and interesting brews.
While you may find it difficult to find a seat at the bar or sun-soaked terraces when school is in session, it’s a worthwhile endeavor, as I found when dutifully spending two days wandering the streets of what was once one of the most important cities in the Kingdom of Bohemia in search of a perfect pint.
Breweries & Taprooms in Olomouc
With breweries ranging from traditional basement bars filled with antique furniture and copper brew kits that knock out batch after batch of Czech Pilsners, to modern breweries that try their hand at every beer style imaginable. You’ll only find two of them in the historic centre – Svatováclavský Pivovar and Moritz – but if you’re willing to take a short bus or tram ride to the outskirts of town, Olomouc has enough variety of microbreweries to please even the most ardent beer enthusiast.
Saint Venceslav's Brewery
Walking into Svatováclavský Pivovar is a little like stepping back in time; wooden furniture and tables topped with chequered cloth, historic photos and posters adorning the walls, and huge copper fermentation vessels sitting in one corner where the beer is brewed right before your eyes.
This is a classic Czech brewery, located on the ground floor of a building in the historic center of Olomouc, near the Cathedral of St. Wenceslas and the Archbishop’s Palace, where the brew kit – knicknamed GOLEM – takes centre stage. Alongside traditional Czech cuisine, they offer 7 different unpasteurised and unfiltered beers, ranging from pilsners and dark lagers to a cherry lager and Hefe-Weizen.
Where: Mariánská 845
When: Monday & Tuesday 11am – 10.30pm; Wednesday to Saturday 11am – 11.30pm; Sunday 11am – 9pm
TVARG
As well as being famed for its beautiful architecture and UNESCO world heritage sites, Olomouc is also known throughout the Czech Republic for the production of Olomouc tvarůžky, a traditional Moravian ripened cheese with a pungent flavour and a strong aroma that is a bit of an acquired taste. But what is the connection between a particularly smelly cheese and Olomouc’s breweries? It turns out that old brewery cellars provided the perfect climatic conditions for the cheese’s ripenig.
A short bus ride from Olomouc, in the town of Velká Bystřice, TVARG brewery keeps this tradition alive with their Tvargle curd cheese, which is matured under barrels in their stone vaulted cellars and can be sampled at the on-site restaurant.
However, they do brew beer too, producing 20 different core and regional beers in the modern brewery. For those wanting to learn a little more about TVARG, the brewery operates 75-minute-long tours (225CZK) each Saturday afternoon as well as a dedicated 45-minute long tour dedicated to the production of Tvargle. However, you can stop by and sample all of their brews at their adjoining taproom.
Where: Floriańska 13
When: Tuesday to Saturday 11am – 10pm; Sunday 11am – 8pm; Monday 11am – 6pm
Hostinský Pivovar Moritz
Walking into Pivovar Moritz, situated on the edge of Olomouc’s historic centre in the basement of a beautiful town house, is a little like stepping back in time. Although the brewery was founded as late as 2006 by Jewish businessman and entrepreneur Moritz Fischer, the interior of the pub wouldn’t look out of place in 1930s Czechia; wooden furniture adorned with chequered table cloths, panelled walls, and glimmering copper brewing vessels looming in the corner of a dark and dingy room.
It is the perfect place to stop for some local cuisine as the restaurant serves a simple selection of Galician, Jewish and Czech dishes alongside their four main beers, 10°, 11°, and 12° lagers as well as their Maisel 11° semi-dark lager. If you’re wondering how good their beer is, Moritz was listed as one of the 10 best Czech breweries in the Good Beer Guide Prague and the Czech Republic, by CAMRA.
Where: Nešverova 2
When: Monday to Thursday 11am – 10pm; Friday & Saturday 11am -11pm; Sunday 11am – 4pm
Pivovar Chomout
The historic village of Chomoutov, in the northernmost part of Olomouc has existed since 1078 but the brewery that bears its name is one of the region’s newest, brewing their first batch of beer in 2014. You will find Chomout Brewery in an old Hanák farmhouse, once a resting place for travellers to spend the night after paying the so-called chomoutovné, a bridge toll for crossing the Morava River.
There is still an inn on the site, run by Chomout, alongside a modern brewery and restauraunt where you will find them brewing classic lagers alongside more inventive brews such as their honey lager and blackcurrent IPA. If you don’t have the time to venture outside of the city to Chomoutov itself, you can find their beer on taps throughout Olomouc, and it is almost always on offer in Sophie’s Cafe, attached to Miss Sophie’s Hotel in the city centre.
Where: Dalimilova 18/92, Chomoutov
When: Monday & Tuesday 11am – 3pm; Wednesday 11am – 8pm; Thursday 11am – 9pm; Friday & Saturday 11am – 10pm; Sunday 11am – 8pm
Ničitel Craft Brewery
There is ‘off the beaten track’ and then there is Ničitel. A 10-minute walk from TVARG on the edge of Velká Bystřice in a mostly residential area, I approached the brewery late in the evening in the dark to find a small building with barred windows that appeared completely closed from the outside. I almost turned around and headed back to Olomouc.
Thankfully, the interior is much more inviting than the exterior, a fire roaring in the corner complete with a snoozing dog enjoying the warmth. This is a place that doesn’t get many tourists or international visitors – my English and poor attempts at the Czech language weren’t understood by the barman or the drunk pensioner – the only other customer – that sat alone in front of a blaring TV. Having said that, this is an incredibly friendly place and the beer is good. I sampled both of their Pecival 11 °, both of which were fantastic.
Where: Loučná 739, Velká Bystřice
When: Friday 4pm – 10pm; Saturday 2pm – 10pm; Sunday 2pm – 8pm
Twinberg
On the northern edge of Olomouc, in Řepčín, this craft microbrewery brews forward-thinking beers in a modern way, while still respecting the old, tried and tested Czech brewing methods. Alongside lagers, you’ll find IPLs, APAs, stouts, sours and IPAs, each represented with a quirky caricature of a famous historical figure.
The stylish taproom and beer hall allows you to sit amongst the brew kit while the kitchen dishes out Czech cuisine made from carefully selected fresh and seasonal ingredients. On warm days, they’ll even often break out the barbecue for some al fresco cooking.
Where: Řepčínská 340/105
When: Thursday 4pm – 10pm; Friday 4pm – 11pm; Saturday 12pm – 11pm; Sunday 12pm – 9pm
Craft Beer Bars in Olomouc
Olomouc is a city buzzing with students, and with them comes a vibrant nightlife and an abundance of pubs, cocktail bars, and a good number of craft beer pubs. Below are some of my favourite beer spots in the city.
U Kuděje
Stepping inside U Kuděje, there isn’t much to differentiate it from dozens of other pubs in Olomouc. Sitting on a non-descript road beyond the park that separates the historic centre from the city’s outskirts, it appears to be a regular Czech pub in a half-step basement filled with wooden furniture and decor that wouldn’t be out of place in the home of a set rural-dwelling pensioners.
However, there is something about U Kuděje that is greater than the sum of its parts.
Named after writer Zdenek Kuděj, a permanent fixture in pubs as well as as being a part of the bohemian literary scene of the early 20th century, this is a pub that exudes a warm and inviting atmosphere. Step inside and you will find a cast of regulars encircling the wooden bar while the two adjoining room will usually be bustling with Olomouc locals that are deep in conversation. This may seem intimidating as an outsider, particularly a foreign one, but I found U Kuděje to not only be a welcoming space, but possibly the best pub that Olomouc has to offer.
Then there is the beer; behind the bar you will find seven taps with a rotating selection of obscure unfiltered beers from Czech microbreweries, many of which you won’t find anywhere else in the city. If you are going to visit just one pub in Olomouc, make it this one.
Where: Krapkova 236/20
When: Monday to Friday 3pm – 11pm; Saturday & Sunday 6pm – 11pm
LOCAL LOCAL PUB Industy
There aren’t a great many reasons to wander eastwards from Olomouc’s picturesque city centre towards the main railway station, Hlavni Nadrazi, but if you’re on the search for good beer, then LOCAL LOCAL PUB Industy is one of them.
It doesn’t look like much from the outside – a basement bar accessible by a small set off steps on Masarykova tř – but this industrial-styled venue provides a laid-back atmosphere away from the crowds of the old town with knowledgable, friendly staff and a good selection of Czech craft beers.
Where: Zeyerova 809/17
When: Monday to Thursday 4pm – 12am; Friday & Saturday 4pm – 1am; Sunday 6pm – 11pm
AXIOM Pub
I first encountered Axiom when trawling the craft beer bars of Brno, not realising that this modern, brewery producing something a little more exciting than the usual Czech lagers is actually based closer to Olomouc, in the town of Prostějov. While I didn’t quite manage to make the 20km pilgrimage to the brewery itself, their bar in Olomouc’s historic centre is a suitable compromise.
This is a typical brewery tap, with 17 lines of their own beers which range from lagers, stouts and IPAs to sours, barrel-aged brews and Weiss beers, there is something to suit every taste.
Where: Panská 175/4
When: Monday to Thursday 4pm – 12am; Friday & Saturday 4pm – 2am
L O S - B A S T A R D O S
While most of the venues on this list fit firmly in the camp of being a typical hospoda or výčep – fitting the Czech pub stereotype or a more modern taproom – Los Bastardos feels more like a city centre dive bar, and while there are a few similar places in Olomouc, this one actually has a great beer selection from small craft breweries to go along with its top shelf spirits rather than the mass-produced pilsners often found in similar establishments.
Where: Komenského 898
When: Monday to Thursday 5pm – 2am; Friday & Saturday 5pm – 3am; Sunday 5pm – 12am
Muž přes palubu!
Tucked away on Ztracená amongst the cafes, bars and boutiques, this bottle shop has a name that translates to ‘Man Overboard!’. Thankfully, you won’t feel lost at sea when browsing their extensive selection of beers and ciders from smaller-scale Czech breweries, as the knowledgeable owner is always happy to help shoppers navigate the huge variety of cans and bottles that occupy the shelves.
Where: Ztracená 253
When: Monday to Friday 11am – 6pm; Saturday 10am – 12pm
Olomouc Beer map
Whether you are planning an Olomouc pub crawl or just want to locate one of the breweries mentioned above, this map includes all the best brewpubs and microbreweries that were covered in this guide.
Using this map: This map shows both the city’s breweries (red icons) and craft beer bars (orange icons). The list can be seen and filtered by toggling the icon on the top left-hand-side of the map, and each location can be explored further by clicking them. Expand the map by clicking the icon on the top right-hand-side.
Beer Festivals in Olomouc
Although Olomouc has enough fantastic breweries to keep beer afficionados satisfied, those looking to taste dozens of beers from small scale producers beyond the city boundaries can sample brews from all over the Czech Republic at one of Olomouc’s beer festivals.
Haná Hops Harvest Festival
Although harvest festivals throughout Europe usually celebrate the harvest of grain, Olomouc’s annual Haná Hops Harvest Festival gives thanks to the small green crop that gives beer its flavour, the hop.
Here, you will find small breweries from throughout the region showcasing what they can produce using hops, with a prestigious award going to the tastiest beer and best brewery. Alongside the drinking, there is a complete program for both adults and families, with concerts, craft stalls and a firework display.
Beerfest Olomouc
Taking place in May, Beerfest Olomouc is the largest beer festival in the Czech Republic where visitors can sample around 150 different brews, starting with classic ‘dozens’ to a huge number of specials from more than 40 breweries from the Czech Republic, regional breweries and microbreweries.
Where to Stay in Olomouc
With it being the 6th largest city in the Czech Republic, there are an abundance of hotels and Airbnbs in Olomouc and you should have no trouble finding somewhere to stay. My one piece of advice is to look for somewhere close to the city’s upper square rather than the train station, as it can be a long walk (or a tram ride) from the main transport hub to the part of the city where you will find most of the museums and attractions.
Boutique
Miss Sophie's
I had previously stayed in Miss Sophie’s sister hotel in Prague so this four-star boutique hotel in the very heart of Olomouc seemed like an obvious choice for my time in Olomouc. While the characterful rooms are cosy enough and filled with antique furniture, the building itself is the main attraction. Dating from the 8th century, it contains a whole host of architectural styles, from Roman to Renaissance; each containing wooden beams, rough walls and vintage furnishings. Many of the original features remain unchanged, if modernised slightly, including the geometric tiles in each of the bathrooms that were found during renovations.
The ground-floor cafe is one of the best in the city and offers a wonderful breakfast as well as a good choice of coffees and baked treats.
Hostel
Long Story Short Hostel
Set aside any connotations you have with the word ‘hostel’, because Long Story Short is a design-led, space that focuses on style and comfort, putting many boutique hotels to shame.
Set within the confines of an old horseshoe shaped fortress, Locatelli’s bastion, the architects have combined the original history of the building with a contemporary touch, we used clean white lines and natural elements such as wood, stone and metal to create an inviting space.
As well as being incredibly affordable, the hostel offers a mix of dorms and private rooms for up to 56 people alongside an in-house café & bar, meeting room, free WiFi and outside, you can sit amongst the fairy lights in their magical garden or gradient terraces overlooking the petanque pit. If you’re going to stay anywhere in Olomouc, make it Long Story Short.
Central Location
Theresian Hotel
One of Olomouc’s more upmarket options, the Theresian hotel offers 33 spacious, soundproof rooms and an on-site wellness centre where you can enjoy a massage, sauna, or make the most of their ‘wet zone’.
How to Get to Olomouc
Although Olomouc doesn’t have its own airport, there are regular, direct flights from London Stanstead Airport to both Ostrava’s Leoš Janáček Airport and Brno–Tuřany Airport, each being around an hour away by car.
Alternatively, the city is accessible from Bratislava’s M.R. Stefanik Airport (210 km away), Vienna International Airport (260 km), Katowice-Pyrzowice Airport (210 km), and Kraków-Balice Airport (265 km).
If you are travelling to Olomouc from another destination within Czechia, then rail or bus are the simplest options. Olomouc’s main train station – Hlavní nádraží – is just a 15 minute tram ride (numbers 2 and 4) from the city’s main square. The most frequent (and direct) services are between Olomouc and Prague, Brno, or Ostrava.
From Prague
There are frequent services between Prague and Olomouc, with three rail companies operating the route: České dráhy, Leo Express and RegioJet. The journey takes around 2 and a half hours. If you need to travel between Prague’s Vaclav Havel Airport and the city’s main train station, I have a complete guide here.
Check train times and ticket prices between Prague and Olomouc.
From Brno
The E76 airport shuttle bus departs at 20 min ,intervals from Brno–Tuřany to Brno Hlavní nádraží Railway Station. The bus stop is situated in front of the departure terminal, with the line ending in the city centre opposite the Grand Hotel close to Brno’s Main Station. From Brno you can continue to Olomouc by train or bus, with the journey taking around an hour and a half.
From Ostrava
From Ostrava’s airport, it’s possible to catch a regional Czech Railways (ČD) train to Ostrava Central Station (Ostrava hlavní nádraží). This takes around half an hour and costs 2 Euro. Alternatively, the 910333 bus line connects the two, taking approximately 45 minutes.
From Ostrava hlavní nádraží, there are frequent trains to Olomouc.
