Like most of Vietnam, Phu Quoc has a complicated past. Over the years Vietnam, Cambodia, France and the US have all staked a claim for the land, with the dispute between Cambodia and Vietnam still ongoing today. It is closer in distance to Cambodia in the Gulf of Thailand than it is to the Vietnamese coast and has been a bone of contention between the two governments, with the Cambodian opposition and irredentists still claiming that the island is Cambodian territory.
At 50km in length and 25km wide at its widest, Phu Quoc is Vietnam’s largest island, covered in dense jungle and with long stretches of beautiful sand. It was once a sleepy fishing community known more for its pepper farms and fish sauce – reportedly the best in Vietnam – than for its tourism. This is all set to change with the Vietnamese government looking to attract a multitude of foreign investors in a bid to make Phu Quoc Vietnam’s premier holiday destination. New hotels, roadways and resorts are being built at an astronomical pace but, for now at least, the island retains some of its relaxed, tropical charm that makes it so popular for luxury travellers and backpackers alike.
Where to Stay on Phu Quoc Island
As Phu Quoc steps up its assault on the South East Asian tourism market, new hotels and resorts are cropping up on a monthly basis, meaning that you won’t be short of options when looking for a place to stay. There is a multitude of options to suit every type of traveller, ranging from budget beachside camping and hostels to luxurious 5-star resorts.
I recommend staying near Long Beach as it is close to Duong Dong town, has plenty of options for eating out, and is centrally located, making it a good base to explore the island. To the south of Long Beach are the luxury resorts and villas. As you move further north towards Duong Dong town you begin to find more rustic accommodation and the Long Beach Village, the island’s very own backpacker district.
9 Station Hostel
Located fairly close to Duong song town, 9Station comes highly recommended as one of the best hostels on the island. It is a modern and chic hostel that has a huge bar/lounge area for socialising and clean, comfortable dorms. Each bed comes with a privacy curtain and a reading lamp. It is a little distance from the beach – about a 12-minute walk – but has its own pool area for those that are wanting a swim without the walk.
Praha Hotel
Nestled around halfway down the road that runs parallel to Long Beach, Praha was my hotel of choice during my stay on Phu Quoc. It is a mid-range hotel through and through; a great place to stay but nothing spectacular. The rooms were large and clean with modern bathrooms and balconies, the staff were friendly and it even has a lovely outdoor pool around the back of the hotel. It is just a few minutes walk from the beach and around 15 minutes walk to the cluster of bars and shops were popular spots such as Rory’s Beach Bar are located. It is a bit of a slog to walk into Duong Dong so I would recommend hopping in a taxi or renting a scooter. The best thing about this place the breakfast.
JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay Resort & Spa
I’m not usually one to recommend luxury accommodation when writing these guides. I know that the majority of people that read them are looking for hostels and mid-range digs. However, after seeing a few pictures of the Emerald Bay Resort, I felt that I had to give it a mention – It is stunning. Located on the east side of the island, with its own private stretch of pristine beach, this sprawling resort looks like the definition of elegance. Unless I win the lottery, I don’t think I’ll ever be able to afford a stay there though.
Things to do on Phu Quoc Island
Relax on the Beach
Phu Quoc is considered by many to be Vietnam’s premier beach destination, with some of the best stretches of sand in the country. Not only that, being one of the only places in Vietnam with a western facing beach means that it is also one of the few places to relax while watching a stunning sunset.
Of all the beaches on the island, Long Beach is the star of the show. Stretching 20km along the coast, it certainly lives up to its name. To the south of Long Beach are the luxury resorts and villas, and as you move further north towards Duong Dong town you begin to find more rustic accommodation and the Long Beach Village. Small shacks and beach bars line the edge of the sand, loungers are scattered around and barbecues were set up waiting for someone to sample that days catch. It is famous for its spectacular dusks as the sun slowly lowers itself into the Gulf of Thailand.
While long beach may be the most popular, Sao Beach is possibly the most beautiful. Located in the south of the Island, just a few kilometres from An Thoi, its swaying palm trees, crystal clear water and powdery white sand make it the perfect picture postcard of paradise. It feels less developed than Long beach with its few small restaurants and hotels hidden by the surrounding jungle and palm trees. The easiest way to get there is by motorcycle. make sure you fill up with petrol before you make the journey from Duong Dong but if you get stuck, there is a petrol station on the main road into An Thoi.
Renting a motorcycle – they can be had for as little as $5 a day – is possibly the best way to get around if you plan on seeing the rest of the island and its northern beaches. The most easily accessible are Cua Can, Ong Lang, Dai Beach and Vung Bau. Most of these beaches are mercifully quiet during the week but when the weekend comes, can become a little busier as locals and Vietnamese tourists descend.
An Thoi Islands
Sitting just of the Southern tip of Phu Quoc, these 15 islets are the perfect place to snorkel, dive and swim in crystal clear waters. The best way to see them is on a boat tour from nearby An Thoi which can easily be organised through your hostel, hotel or by a tour operator in Duong Dong town.
Duong Dong Market
Phu Quoc’s main town and port can often feel like it mostly caters to tourists with its muddle of budget hotels, eateries and shops but once you get away from the main drag you will find this little slice of local life. Whatever development is taking place on Phu Quoc, it seems to have completely bypassed this small enclave of streets in the town centre. Masses of honking scooters all jostling for position on the road as crowds of pedestrians weaved in and out of us carrying huge baskets of produce. Lining the main street are plastic buckets filled with every variation of seafood you can imagine; prawns, scallops, rays and even dogfish. People buzz by on motorbikes, stopping for a second to pass a few Dong to the women sitting on the curb, their baskets overflowing with unfamiliar fruits. It’s the perfect antidote to the sanitised and overpriced beach resort scene – a place to get a taste of working Vietnam.
Cau Castle
Dinh Cau, also known as ‘Cau Castle’, ‘Dinh Cau Temple’, ‘Dinh Cau Shrine’ and the ‘Dragon King Shrine’ is less a castle and more a mixture of all of its various names. Built in 1937 to honour Thien Hau, the Goddess of the Sea, this combination of temple and lighthouse was constructed by local fishermen in the hopes that Thien Hau would provide a safe trip and calm weather while they were at sea. Its proximity to Duong Dong means that it can become rather crowded at sunset.
Nha Tu Phú Quốc (Phú Quốc Prison)
Just a short distance from Sao Beach in the south of the island is the notorious Nha Tu Phu Prison. From 1950 until the fall of Saigon in 1975, North Vietnamese soldiers, dissenters, and revolutionaries were held here and routinely tortured or starved to death. Nowadays the prison hosts a small museum narrating the gruesome history of the jail. Torture instruments are on display alongside historical photographs and nightmarish mannequins depicting graphic scenes.
Fish Sauce Factory
I know what you’re thinking – a fish sauce factory doesn’t sound very exciting. Truth be told, it’s probably not. I decided to give it a miss during my stay on the island, but as Phu Quoc is famous for its fishy liquid, those with a keen interest in Vietnamese cuisine may want to stop by. The Nuoc Mam Hung Thanh distillery is the largest on the island and exports its wares to every part of the country.
Where to Eat & Drink on Phu Quoc
Many of the resorts at the southern end of Long beach have their own, excellent restaurants but, even if you’re staying far from Duong Dong, I recommend getting into town to try some local food. Although it’s possible to find almost any kind of cuisine on Phu Quoc, the island thrives on seafood and there are not many places in Vietnam that will serve it as fresh as they do here.
Dinh Cau Night Market
Possibly the best place to dine on the island, with the greatest choice of food, Dinh Cau is an atmospheric and affordable spot to grab an evening meal. As soon as it gets dark, the crowds descend on this cluster of stalls ranging from ice cream rolls and desserts to barbeque and veggie dishes. There are a number of restaurants dotted around the market that focus on Vietnamese seafood with tanks full of live fish and shellfish lining the street. Just choose which one you want to eat, and they will cook it up for you. It’s always best to look for the places bustling with locals as you know they probably serve the best food.
Rory’s Beach Bar
This beach-front bar is the perfect spot to end any night in Phu Quoc. Deck chairs are laid out on the sand while a huge bonfire rages on the beach. The few times that I visited it never got too busy, but the steady stream of backpackers meant it was always lively and had a great atmosphere. The drinks menu is extensive and while it isn’t particularly cheap, the menu of burgers and pizzas is perfect for anyone wanting a brief respite from seafood and Vietnamese fare.
Beach Bars on Long Beach
On an evening, in the area around Rory’s beach bar, the shacks on Long Beach lay out huge, ice-filled trays of freshly caught fish, lobster and squid. Just pick what you want to eat and how you would like it cooked. Most will sell a BBQ platter containing a mix of their different offerings. While most of these restaurants are similar in quality, I found the best to be Nhat Lan Restaurant.
Tours on Phu Quoc Island
In Duong Dong and along Long beach there are plenty of tour operators hustling to get you to partake in one of their trips. The majority offer the same range of experiences, from snorkelling trips besides the An Thoi Islands, boat excursions Diving and PADI courses. The Open Water courses tend to be priced a little higher than in other South East Asian destinations at around £350 – $400 but Flipper Diving Club comes highly recommended. For everything else, such as snorkelling, boat trips and more adventurous activities such as fishing and hiking, John’s Jungle Tours is probably your best bet.
Squid fishing is one of the more popular excursions. On an evening you can see the boats bobbing off the coast of long beach, their lights trained on the water, hoping to lure the cephalopods to their doom.
Getting In and Out
By Air
Phu Quoc has its own international airport in Duong Dong Airport that has direct flights from Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Da Nang and Can Tho. Flights to Can Tho do not depart all that regularly but journeys to Ho Chi Minh City are cheap and plentiful (expect to pay between £20 and £40)). If you are travelling beyond Rach Gia or the Mekong Delta region, there is a good chance that air travel will be your cheapest travel option.
By Boat
There is a fast hydrofoil that travels between Phú Quốc and the mainland port of Rach Gia, leaving at around 8 am.s. Tickets for the hilariously named Superdong cost 320,000 VND for the 2 and a half hour trip.
It is worth asking around at travel agents in Duong Dong as most agencies can arrange a hotel pick up and then an onward bus journey from Rach Gia to your final destination. I did this to get to Can Tho without any issues. The only downside to the journey was having to listen to trashy Vietnamese movies playing at ear-splitting levels for the duration of the boat ride.
When to Visit
Due to its location in the Gulf of Thailand, Phú Quốc Island has a tropical climate consisting of three seasons: High, Shoulder and Low Season.
The best time to visit is during the High Season, between November and March. At this time of year, you can expect temperatures of around 30°C during the day and lows of 20°C at night. There is little to no rain and the skies are relatively cloudless.
From April to June, the temperatures start to rise and the humidity can reach up to 85%. If you don’t mind the heat, it can be a good time to visit as there are fewer visitors and hotel prices will be lower.
Try to avoid the monsoon season between July and September.
For more on Phu Quoc, and to get my opinion of the island, check out my blog post Paradise in Progress: Phu Quoc Island
3 Responses
Nice article. I have to try this Rory’s beach bar, everyone raves about it. Long Beach is just beautiful, however I’m not to keen on swimming as I don’t really trust the water quality that much. Hopefully I’m wrong!
It’s a nice bar, just a little pricey compared to some of the other spots nearby. I found the water quality at Long Beach to be fine, but there is a fair bit of trash dotted around the beach.
Thank you Dave for you detailed info.