I feel as though I’m trapped in an Escher painting come to life. Dozens of tesselating diamond stair sets criss-cross their way down eight stories to the murky, green water that sits at the bottom of Panna Meena Ka Kund. As I make my way towards the water, I get serious Labyrinth vibes, only without a silver-mulleted Bowie serenading my descent.
Northern India is littered with stunning step-wells; There’s Agrasen ki Baoli in the centre of New Delhi, or the visually spectacular Chand Baori of Abhaneri, built in 900AD and containing 3500 steps. However, it is Panna Meena Ka Kund that has become something of an Instagram darling as of late. Not a single day goes by without me seeing a dozen photos of its pale, yellow steps cropping up in my social feeds. There is something about the pastel-shaded plaster and proximity to Jaipur that makes it such an alluring, photogenic backdrop.
Built during the 16th-century reign of Maharaja Jai Singh, the baori’s geometric staircases are a stunning combination of ingenious Indian engineering and architectural beauty; the symmetrical arrangement of stairs in a criss-cross manner, the recessed doorways and the octagonal gazebos. However, the design is originally intended to be more practical than aesthetic, created as a way of collecting the monsoon rains and preserving water for the drier months and designed in such a way that people could reach water at any level as the pool rises and falls. This made the step well was a centre point for the community, used as a water source, bathing pool and for washing clothes. It was a meeting spot for the women; a place to chit-chat and catch up on each other’s lives.
Becky and I arrived at the Baori to find that we were the only tourists, the only other soul in sight was a uniformed policeman, slumped in the shade of a gazebo, tapping away at his phone. He approached us tentatively.
“150 rupees each for a ticket”
I had been warned beforehand that security guards at the site may try to cajole a fee from unsuspecting visitors so I stood my ground, first asking where the price was listed. He seemed surprised and a little flustered by my stubbornness, possibly assuming his uniform would have persuaded me to part with my money. When he continued to ask, I pressed him a little harder, asking him if he could provide a ticket stub, or at least a receipt, which only seemed to rile him further. Frustrated, he eventually slinked off, spotting a minibus full of Indian tourists arriving at the entrance and seeing a greater chance for profit than my obstinate self.
We climbed inside, descending and ascending the winding zig zags for around half an hour, snapping photographs and enjoying having the well to ourselves while half a dozen other tourists argued with the guard, keeping him distracted. According to local legend, the stairs that are used to go down cannot be used to go upstairs, so I circled the 3 graduated sides, working my way down to the water level and returning beside to the arched balcony on the 4th side.
Leaving, it seemed strange to me that a place so beautiful, and so important to Amer and Jaipur’s heritage, attracts as few visitors as it does. However, thanks to the proliferation of Instagram and social media, that may be changing. I can only recommend that you visit Panna Meena Ka Kund now, while you get the chance to have it all to yourself.
How to get to Panna Meena Ka Kund
The stepwell is located in the northwest part of Amer, on the Jaipur-Amer road near the Anokhi Museum. It’s only a short walk (~1km/ 11 minutes) from the Amber Fort so I would recommend combining both attractions in one trip.
From the front car park of the Fort, walk north up Amer road for a few minutes, before turning left onto Sagar Road, towards Amer. Amer should be signposted. Follow the road until you reach the stepwell. Amer is a small town so the stepwell is easy enough to find, but locals will point you in the right direction. Otherwise, look out for the tall roof of the neighbouring Bihari ji temple, head towards it and you will find Panna Meena Ka Kund on the opposite side of the street.
Alternatively, leave the Fort through the back entrance, cutting across the rear car park and heading, downhill towards Amer (you should go right after leaving the fort). It is a 10-minute walk to the stepwell from here.
If you want to reach Panna Meena Ka Kund from central Jaipur, the easiest way is to travel by Uber. I would always recommend taking an Uber over a tuk-tuk as the price is fixed and normally cheaper. Expect to pay between 150 and 200 rupees each way.
Information
Unlike some of the more well-known step wells in India, this one is much smaller and deserted. There is nothing restricting you from exploring the steps down to the water. It’s a peaceful spot to unwind after enduring the crowds of the Amber Palace, and worth taking an hour of your itinerary to explore.
Entry to the step well is officially free but be warned, the patrolling policeman will probably try to charge you 150 rupees to go inside. I found that the best way to avoid paying was to ask him lots of questions about the entry fee such as “Where is the price list?”, “Do you provide actual tickets?”, or “Can I have a receipt?” and he will soon be so frustrated that he will stop hassling you, leaving you to wander down the steps and take as many photographs as your heart desires.
Panna Meena Ka Kund is open from sunrise to sunset.
6 Responses
I have heard that you need special permission to actually descend the steps is that true?
That may be the case now as it is a long time since I visited. It is best to check before you go.
Hello!
I don’t have a trip to India planned anytime soon but I’ve added this place to the list! You’ve captured it well!
I wanted to say thanks for sharing!
I’m not big into seeing the sights but have wanted to see this stepwell for some time. Thanks for tip regarding the guard.
Love the pics.
We’ve just visited the stepwell in Jaipur and no way does it look like your photos. They are so photoshopped and tidied up it’s unrealistic to present them as accurate. Shocking
Hi Matthew. I haven’t photoshopped these images in any way. I did visit a while ago so it may not still be as clean as it was when I visited (I’ve seen photos where it looks a little grubby so they must clean it up periodically).