There is a brief countdown before the band starts to play us off. Standing on the balcony above the luxurious, top-deck swimming pool, they begin to strum, sing and drum as waiters, decked out in dapper red waistcoats and crisply pressed white shirts smoothly weave through the gathered crowd with trays of cocktails, handing out tiny union flags and glasses of prosecco to each passenger so that we can say goodbye to the UK in style.
I’ve seen ships do sail away celebrations like this on film and tv, but I didn’t realise it was something that happened in real life. It all seemed a little extravagant, as well as being extraordinarily fun. I’m not the kind of person that travels luxuriously; I’m more a backpack and hostel dorm sort of person, so all of this felt a little new to me. When I told friends that I was going on a cruise, I got the same wide-eyed gawp of surprise from almost all of them.
So how did I handle my first ever cruise? I had a few reservations, mostly revolving around me feeling like a fish out of water. Would I like the cruise? Would it be too fancy for me? There’s no denying that cruise ships are a hotbed of unabashed, unbridled luxury; Spas, formal nights, and all-inclusive room service are the order of the day, but after spending a week on Sapphire Princess, it’s something that I could certainly get used to. Am I a cruise convert? You bet.
Where Did We Go?
Over the course of our 7-day European cruise with Princess Cruises, we sailed from Southampton and visited La Coruna (Spain), Bilbao (Spain), Bordeaux (France), and Guernsey before heading back to Southampton. That’s 4 countries in a week! Check out my full itinerary below.
A Coruna, Spain
Full of Baroque, neoclassical and the gothic architecture of the city’s medieval quarter, La Coruna manages to be at once both beautiful and rough-hewn. Occupying a 2km long, contorted isthmus off the Galician coast, the town can appear to be one long sea-front, bookended by Riazor – one of northern Spain’s best urban beaches – on one side, and the harbour on the other. The Paseo Marítimo, a winding 13km walkway and bike path, runs all the way from the port, around the tip of the peninsula where you will find the Unesco listed Tower of Hercules (the world’s oldest functioning lighthouse), and back along Riazor itself.
Bordeaux, France
The charming city of Bordeaux, filled with superb examples of 18th-century neoclassical architecture – From the elegant symmetry of Place de la Bourse to tree-shaded boulevards laced with hôtels particuliers – France’s 6th largest city is also the world’s largest urban UNESCO world heritage site. While the city itself is stunningly beautiful, most people come here for the wine; The vineyards of Le Verdon, surrounding Bordeaux are arguably some of the finest in the world
Bilbao, Spain
Most famous for the Guggenheim, Frank Gehry’s shimmering titanium-clad gallery, Bilbao is actually one of the Basque country’s most alluring destinations and there is certainly more to it than just one museum. Perched on the hills above the Nervion River, Bilbao is part bustling port city, part vibrant metropolis. Other than the Guggenheim, there is a neo-baroque theatre, an art nouveau train station and several spectacular cathedrals. The real draw of Bilbao though, is the food. The narrow, cobblestone streets of the old town host everything from Michelin-starred spots, classic family-run tapas joints and buzzing pintxo bars.
Guernsey
Guernsey is a fairly unique place. Although not part of the UK, Guernsey is a British Crown Dependency with its own government and an associate relationship with the British Commonwealth and the EU. It has a definite British feel, yet it’s different enough to give you the feeling of being abroad. Known for its beautiful beaches, excellent seafood, rolling countryside, and the hilly, cobbled capital of St Peter Port, Guernsey punches well above its weight in culture, history and attractions.
Day Two: Sea Day
My biggest concern about cruising was the thought of spending whole days at sea. By nature, I am the kind of person that likes to wander and explore. I’m not one for sitting still, and can easily find myself becoming bored quickly if I have to spend time at the beach or pool while everybody else is lounging in the sun. Luckily, there is plenty to explore and keep me occupied, even onboard Sapphire Princess. After having breakfast delivered to my room so that I could sit out on my balcony watching the ripples of the Bay of Biscay (yes, I was embracing the luxury), our group was taken on a behind the scenes tour of the ship. Our stops included the galley, where the chefs are able to dish up over a thousand meals an hour, and the bridge where we were able to meet the captain.
It’s on this tour that I began to realise the true scale of the ship. Over 3000 passengers, 1500 staff, 4 pools, hot tubs, sports courts, a gym, a huge selection of bars and restaurants, a casino and even a nightclub up on the 17th deck. It’s safe to say that I wouldn’t be feeling bored on this cruise.
The heart of the ship is the Atrium, in Sapphire Princess’ centre where the balconies of higher decks look down on a huge open plaza. It was here that we met for cocktails on our first ‘formal night’ onboard. While I don’t usually do formal wear and thought it may be a little stuffy, it was actually a great excuse to dress up. Drinks were passed to all the passengers, dressed in suits, tuxedos and cocktail dresses as they watched a champagne waterfall being poured and a band played. Apparently, champagne waterfalls are a tradition onboard Princess cruise ships on the first formal night of each cruise, and it’s a tradition that I can certainly get behind.
Day Three: A Coruna, Spain
Time in port: 7am – 4pm
Shore excursions available: Princess offers a city walk from the monumental Plaza Maria Pita and the Romanesque churches of the atmospheric Old Town to the shady Plaza Azcarraga, followed by a scenic drive that takes in the medieval San Anton Castle, the Tower of Hercules and Mirador de San Pedro viewpoint. If you want to get out of the city, you can take a trip to Santiago de Campostela, an historic centre of Catholic pilgrimage and the most venerated shrine in Europe during the Middle Ages.
The first port on our cruise was La Coruna. It’s a city I had never heard of before embarking on this cruise, let alone had the urge to visit. This northern Galacian town isn’t much visited by foreign tourists, perhaps because it’s not on the way anywhere, but I that is one of the joys of cruising; to stop in destinations that you maybe wouldn’t have visited on your own.
Pulling into the harbour, La Coruña glitters like a long mirror ball in the morning light. A panoramic procession of galeria style buildings lines the harbour-front area of ‘Marina Avenue’ where the intricate white woodwork frames are filled with thousands of window panes that reflect the glittering Atlantic, giving La Coruña its nickname the City of Glass. These balconies, enclosed in a glass frame protecting them from Galicia’s cool winters, make them usable all year round and are fairly unique to this region. It’s a five-minute walk from the ship to the city’s historic centre where I find myself in in Plaza de María Pita, a vast porticoed city square lined with terraces and tapas bars, named after the formidable fisherwoman who fought off Sir Francis Drake’s attack in 1589. Dominated on one side by the extravagant, turreted council building and the baroque church of Igrexa de San Xurxo on an another, I can’t help but think that this would be the perfect spot to decamp on an evening, a glass of wine in hand and tapas coming thick and fast. However, Galicia’s reputation for inclemency seems completely justified, the grey skies and constant drizzle put an end to my alfresco ambitions.
Instead, I make my way to the northern edge of the Coruna’s rugged peninsula to the wide, sandy, Riazor beach. Here I join the The Paseo Marítimo, a winding 13km walkway and bike path running all the way from the port, around the rugged tip of the peninsula, and make my way towards the Tower of Hercules, a UNESCO world heritage site and Roman lighthouse, built in the 1st century AD, when its beacon marked the very limits of their empire. It is still functioning today and considered to be the world’s oldest working lighthouse. Despite the weather, it’s a beautiful walk, with the waves crashing against the rocks and cliffs that make up this jagged outcrop on the edge of the city.
I finish my day with tapas in La Bombilla, a non-descript looking tapas joint at the corner of Rúa Torreiro that is typical in its simplicity and brimming more with locals than tourists. The menu is simple, with a list of 10 or so dishes, all priced at the incredibly tempting price of €1.10 each. Tortillas, croquettes and meatballs sit in heated dishes on the bar beneath a class counter, just waiting to be served to the patrons lined at the bar. I opt for, obviously, some seafood, ordering a plate of crisp, fresh calamari alongside some chorizo, and crusty bread washed down with a helping of Estrella Galicia, La Coruña’s signature beer. My whole meal comes to less than €5 and is a great welcome to Galician cuisine, particularly the Caldo Gallego, an emblematic dish of fortifying stew made of broth, beans, vegetables and a variety of meats that the people of northern Spain devour to fight off the winter chill. With the sun finally deciding to show itself, there’s time for one last enormous glass of sangria on the waterfront, Sapphire Princess just a 2-minute walk away, awaiting my tipsy return so that we can set sail for another Spanish city.
Day Four: Bilbao, Spain
Time in port: 8am – 6pm
Shore excursions available: Princess offers a number of tours that take in the city of Bilbao, including their Bilboa Highlights tour that takes in the stunning Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, a world-class attraction of modern art by famed architect Frank Gehry, and then a stroll around Casco Viejo, the city’s Old Quarter, on a half-day excursion. For people that a more into the gastronomical side of things, you can explore the medieval Old Town and its cornucopia of speciality food stores on a walking tour. Visit Ribera indoor market, the largest in Europe, and a traditional txoko, a gastronomic society, for a cooking demonstration and lunch. If you have explored Bilbao before and want to get a little more off the beaten track, there is a trip to Hondarribia, an old medieval fishing village on the French border followed by a tour of San Sebastian, as well as a trip to the two former basque capitals of Bermeo and Guernica.
Although we arrive in port on the edge of the bustling, vibrant city of Bilbao, this morning we aren’t heading into the city. Instead, we hop aboard a bus for our first guided excursion of the trip and travel 50 minutes by bus to Gaztelugatxe by bus as part of a Princess Cruise shore excursion. Known as Castle Rock, Gaztelugatxe is a wind-beated islet off the Basque coast, topped with a church that is an important pilgrimage site for Christians. The main attraction though, is the winding, man-made staircase that connects the hermitage to the mainland. Fans of Game of Thrones will already know Gaztelugatxe. The winding staircase was transformed by the show into Dragonstone, the ancestral home of the Mother of Dragons, Daenerys Targaryen. It’s thought that around 75,000 tourists are now heading here each month.
On our way back to Bilbao proper, we stop briefly in the nearby town of Bermeo. We’re met with a perfect little Spanish fishing town. Mismatched, multicoloured houses ring the harbour, and along the harbour mouth, at the front of the small peninsula – a part of town where higgledy-piggledy fisherman’s houses are separated by a labyrinth of stairs and alleyways – people lounge outside cafes and pretty little tapas bars, reading their newspapers over a morning coffee or eating some of the regions famous seafood.
Speaking of food, when we arrive back in Bilbao, it’s just past lunchtime and we’re ready for food. Bilbao is famous for its cuisine and all along the narrow, cobblestone streets of the old town you can find everything from Michelin-starred spots, classic family-run tapas joints and buzzing pintxo bars. Pinxtos are what we’re most interested in though, and our guide takes us inside Berton for a pintxo tasting session. Tucked away in a narrow Casco Viejo lane, Berton is a little rustic, but slightly elegant, like all bars should be. All along the wooden counter are plates filled with tiny, bite-sized delicacies; bread topped with Glistening slices of jamón, roast mushrooms, cheeses, anchovies and the local speciality, cod smothered in yellow pil-pil sauce. I try around four different types of open sandwiches, followed by a round of calamari and some crisp, paprika sprinkled octopus before a quick jaunt around the Guggenheim and a return to the ship for our next sail away.
Day Five: Bordeaux, France
Time in port: 7am – 6pm
Shore excursions available: As this is prime wine country, obviously Princess offers a number of different trips to various chateaus, vineyards and celebrated wine cellars for tastings and tours. If wine isn’t your thing, you can also visit the world-renowned Hennessy distillery in Cognac. For those that want to see a little more of the region, the ‘Best of Bordeaux tour includes wine tasting at a glamorous French chateau, a trip to the legendary Medoc wine region, and a sightseeing tour through monumental Bordeaux.
Doing a wine tasting at 10 am may not always be the best idea, but when you’re in Bordeaux – or more specifically, the vineyards of Le Verdon, arguably one of the finest wine-producing regions in the world – it would be a shame not to take full advantage of the wine on offer. On the fourth day of our cruise, we were met at Bordeaux’s port by Loïc, a local wine writer and expert to venture into the chateaus of the Médoc region.
Our first stop was Chateau Branaire-Ducru, a manor house and sprawling estate on the southern border of the Saint-Julien appellation with rolling green vineyards that cover over 50 hectares. I’m not much of a wine expert myself, but I enjoy a tipple, and the extravagant setting alone was worth the visit. The grand vin Château Branaire (often referred to as Château Branaire Ducru) averages about 15,000 cases per year. They use a novel gravity-flow style winery to minimize damage to the grapes as they are processed. The estate also produces about 7,000 cases of its second wine, Duluc de Branaire-Ducru. We had the chance to sample both wines as well as take a tour of the wine cellar where around 1/3 of the production undergoes malolactic fermentation in new oak barrels.
Although I was certainly impressed by Château Branaire, our next stop was even more extravagant. Château Rousseau de Sipian, with its imposing, turreted mansion, overlooks the Gironde estuary and occupies a centuries-old park surrounded 10-hectare of vineyard. Although the wine-tasting and cellar tour, led by Loïc, was fantastic, the main reason for our visit to the Chateau was to enjoy an incredible 3-course meal in Rousseau de Sipian’s elaborate Renaissance-style dining room. All of the courses came with a wine pairing, obviously, meaning that we were practically stumbling back onto the coach to return to Sapphire Princess.
Day Six: Sea Day
After 3 busy days exploring Spain and France, it was actually a slight relief to have a day at sea in which we could get some much needed R&R. I started the day as I meant to go on, with a lie-in in my incredibly comfortable stateroom bed, before enjoying a leisurely coffee and breakfast on my balcony. Taking full advantage of the ship’s more luxurious amenities, I was booked into the Sanctuary for the morning. This is the ‘adults only’ section sitting at the very front of the ship where you will find loungers, spa facilities, steam rooms and the quietest of all the pools onboard. I pulled on my sapphire-branded gown, kicked my feet up and lounged like my life depended on it, sipping prosecco in the sun while ordering food (the Sanctuary has a healthy menu of snacks, salads, smoothies other dishes to counteract the booze) before going the whole hog and getting afternoon tea delivered to our loungers. To top off my day of relaxation, I was then treated to an exotic lime and ginger salt massage in the Lotus Spa. I could certainly get used to this cruising life.
Day Seven: Guernsey
Time in port: 7am – 6pm
Shore excursions available: Princess cruises had some pretty great shore excursions available, including a scenic drive around the island that took in Guernsey’s highlights, from the rocky cliffs of the West Coast through the island’s centre, passing scenic villages, farmhouses and narrow country lanes. The tour is also available by bike. As well as this, there was a tour that visits the Occupation Museum, which tells the story of the island’s ordeal from June 1940 to May 1945, followed by a tour the Underground Hospital and Munitions Store, a German bunker complex on the island’s coast. If you have visited Guernsey before, there is a 5-hour tour of Herm, the Channel Islands smallest Island at just 1 square mile, that takes in Manor Village, the Herm School and St. Tugual’s Chapel, as well as a tour that visits Sark Island. Sark was one of the last feudal states in Europe ruled by a democratically elected Seigneur.
Although I have wanted to visit the channel islands for a while, Guernsey was probably the place that I was least excited about visiting on the cruise. Not that I wasn’t excited at all, but the island doesn’t have quite the same draw for me as cities in France and Spain do. Maybe it’s because I see Guernsey as fairly British in look and feel; Although not part of the UK, Guernsey is a British Crown Dependency with its own government and an associate relationship with the British Commonwealth and the EU. This was until I spoke to other passengers onboard the Sapphire Princess. Multiple people had confided to me that Guernsey was the place that they were most looking forward to visiting on the cruise, even people that had visited the Channel Islands numerous times before. My interest was piqued.
This was our first and only tender port of the trip. At a tender port, the ship is not able to pull up to the pier or dock, usually because the water is too shallow, so it will anchor just offshore. Luckily for us, the weather was clear and the sea was calm, so we were able to hop aboard a smaller boat and make our way to shore.
Hoping off our tender, we arrived smack-bang in the middle of St Peter Port. With its bunting-strewn, winding cobbled streets and Regency architecture, it is an incredibly charming town, one that is reminiscent of some of Cornwall’s finest. Although a fair amount of time can be spent just wandering the streets, shopping at cute boutiques or sampling some of the town’s fantastic restaurants, it also includes two of the island’s top attractions; Castle Cornet, an 800-year-old fortress that guards the picturesque harbour, and Hauteville House, eccentrically designed by Victor Hugo. If you don’t want to venture too far afield, St Peter Port has enough on offer to occupy you for a full day. However, I fancied exploring Guernsey properly, so boarded one of the local buses that makes its way eastward from the main town and circles the island, stopping off at each and every one of its beautiful beaches and bays.
My first port of call is Pembroke Beach, a sprawling stretch of golden sand surrounded by fortifications and loophole towers dating back to the Anglo-French war of 1778. Due to its strategic location and history of Nazi occupation, Guernsey was once the most heavily fortified places on Earth and this is still visible in the myriad bunkers and tunnels that cover the island. After a short walk across the peninsular to the equally beautiful Chouet Beach, I take the bus over to Vazon Bay on the west side of the island, where the sunny weather and glittering blue sea give me the perfect excuse to indulge in an ice cream and pasty at a beach-front cafe.
Deciding I should see some of the island’s sights rather than just explore the wonderful beaches, I take a leisurely 50-minute stroll to the centre of Guernsey past fields, cottages and winding country roads to the Little Chapel. Decorated all over with a rainbow of seashells, pebbles and broken china, The Little Chapel is one of Guernsey’s most-loved tourist attractions and a stop-off on pretty much every shore excursion tour of the Island. Nestled in a picturesque valley in the parish of St Andrew and standing at just 16ft by 9ft this tiny chapel, a replica of the basilica and grotto of Our Lady of Lourdes in Massabielle, is thought to be the smallest consecrated chapel in the world.
With the sun still shining, I decided to carry on my stroll and walk an hour back to St Peter Port through the rolling countryside and pretty lanes, arriving just in time for a quick look around the bunting-strewn streets of the island’s capital and the yacht-filled harbour before it’s time to leave. After spending the day in Guernsey, I definitely see what all the fuss is about. It may not have been a stop that I was particularly excited about, but it was easily one of my favourite ports on our cruise.
My Favourite Things About Cruising on Sapphire Princess
Sailing from Southampton
One of the big benefits of taking this cruise is that it departs from Southampton. I get that it can be exciting to fly to a new destination in order to take a cruise from a non-UK port, but the cost of flights and baggage can add up, especially if you want to pack a few fancy outfits or suits for the formal nights on board. Luckily, setting sail from Southampton meant that I didn’t have to worry about how much luggage I took with me. Princess has no limits on the number of bags that you can bring with you, they only ask that no single piece of luggage weighs more than 22kg. As someone that is used to the restrictive policies of budget airlines, this was a revelation. I could pack whatever I wanted without having to worry about trying to fit everything into a carry-on bag for a flight to a departure destination.
Arriving at a New Destination Each Day
There’s nothing better than being able to visit 4 different countries without having to lift a finger in terms of planning or logistics. No airports, taxis or trains between each stop, just relaxing onboard the ship and allowing it to take you to each new destination, meaning you can relax in your comfy cabin, order breakfast in bed or at the buffet before taking a leisurely stroll off the ship into a brand new city.
My Cabin
As my only previous overnight stay on a ship has been an overnight ferry from Hull to Rotterdam in a cramped, basic cabin, I was expecting my room on Sapphire Princess to be much the same. This is another misconception that I’m pleased that I got wrong. It was more like a fancy hotel room (and one that is actually nicer than 90% of hotel rooms that I stay in). It was spacious, had sliding doors that lead out onto a balcony – the perfect place to enjoy your morning coffee – and one of the comfiest beds I’ve ever slept in.
Arriving at a New Destination Each Day
There’s nothing better than being able to visit 4 different countries without having to lift a finger in terms of planning or logistics. No airports, taxis or trains between each stop, just relaxing onboard the ship and allowing it to take you to each new destination, meaning you can relax in your comfy cabin, order breakfast in bed or at the buffet before taking a leisurely stroll off the ship into a brand new city.
My Cabin
As my only previous overnight stay on a ship has been an overnight ferry from Hull to Rotterdam in a cramped, basic cabin, I was expecting my room on Sapphire Princess to be much the same. This is another misconception that I’m pleased that I got wrong. It was more like a fancy hotel room (and one that is actually nicer than 90% of hotel rooms that I stay in). It was spacious, had sliding doors that lead out onto a balcony – the perfect place to enjoy your morning coffee – and one of the comfiest beds I’ve ever slept in.
The Food
I wasn’t too sure what to expect when it came to food onboard a cruise ship. I knew that there are restaurants and formal dining rooms on the ship, but I was mostly expecting to eat most meals at a buffet with the same limited choice each day. I couldn’t have been more wrong.
Yes, there is a buffet if you want a quick breakfast or lunch, but the choice of food in the buffet alone is huge. Then there are myriad other choices from cafes, traditional dining rooms, speciality restaurants and multiple snack bars throughout the ship. Included in the price of your cruise are the traditional dining rooms where you can have a delicious 3 course meal each evening (with the menu changing daily), Alfredo’s Pizzeria, the Trident Grill where you can pick up burgers or hotdogs as well as things like fries, veggie burgers, bratwurst and grilled chicken breast any time of day, and the 24hr International cafe where you can find an ever-changing array of small bite meals, treats such as sandwiches, cookies, croissants, and baked goods. It’s worth noting that room service is also included in the price, just in case you don’t fancy leaving your incredibly comfortable bed.
There are dining upgrades available for a surcharge too. Sabatini’s, Sapphire Princess’ speciality Italian restaurant was voted one of the “Best Cruise Ship Specialty Restaurants” at sea by USA TODAY and the Sterling Steakhouse serves the highest quality cuts of premium, grain-fed beef including New York strip steak, Porterhouse and Filet Mignon.
It’s worth noting that drinks aren’t included in the price of your cruise and although they are generally reasonably priced, it can be a good idea to purchase a drinks package if you plan on spending a lot of time in the many bars, pubs and cafes on the ship. The soft drink package, which includes all fountain sodas, fruit juices, mocktails and smoothies is available for $9.99 USD per person, per day while the premier beverage package which includes cocktails, wine, beer, spirits, soft drinks, speciality coffees, bottled water, teas and other individual beverages up to $12 USD each is $59.99 USD per person, per day.
I was on board Sapphire Princess as part of a 7-day Princess Cruises Cruise to Spain, France and Guernsey. Staterooms start at £849.99. For more cruise deals click here.
This post has been created as part of a sponsored collaboration with Princess Cruises, however, all views expressed are my own.
