Bordering the Thu Bồn River, where you will find its shores lined with canary-yellow merchants’ houses, Hoi An’s ancient and lantern-strewn old town is one of Vietnam’s most beguiling destinations. It is a fascinating place; the quaint streets are packed with centuries worth of historical sights and buildings while the atmospheric waterfront piles on the old-world charm that makes Hoi An such a compelling stop on any Vietnam itinerary.
Hoi An is famed for its food culture; over the centuries, the diverse mix of people and nationalities that have found themselves in the city’s port has influenced the region’s dishes significantly. With culinary influences from as disparate regions as France, Japan, and China, Hoi An’s cuisine is both diverse and unique.
The freshness of the region’s ingredients only adds to the appeal. The fish and shrimp come to your plate from both the nearby East Vietnamese Sea and the Thu Bon river, with the herbs and vegetables arriving courtesy of local organic gardens such as Tra Que, the farming community situated between the town centre and An Bang beach. Then there are the noodles; The flour is freshly milled from the rice paddies encircling the town while most of Hoi An’s noodle dishes use alkaline water drawn from ancient local wells, meaning that certain dishes like white rose dumplings (banh bao banh vac) and cao lầu are not found anywhere else in the country.
In my other Vietnam guides, I have mostly eschewed restaurants in favour of street food. However, while there are many great pavement eateries dotted on the banks of the Thu Bon River and scattered throughout the old town, Hoi An is one of the few places that I would recommend sampling a few indoor spots. That’s the beauty of Hoi An. With its great culinary tradition, you can grab a quick bite at the market, snap up a cheap meal at a cafe, or splash out on a high-end dining experience and you know that all of it will be delicious.
Read More: The Best Things to do in Hoi An
Must-Try Food in Hoi An
Cao Lầu
Cao lầu is the quintessential Hoi An dish. It dates back to the 1700s when the port first opened its doors to foreign merchants and both the Japanese and Chinese influences are clear to see. With cao lầu, you will be served a bowl of fat, soba-style noodles (here’s the Japanese touch) with slices of pork marinated in star anise and cassia bark (the Chinese influence), alongside beansprouts, croutons, lemongrass, greens and pork crackling. Although the name derives from the days when Hoi An’s upper-class citizens would eat it in the fancier, upstairs dining rooms of the Old Town – cao lầu derives from the original name of len lau, which means ‘bring upstairs’ – the best place to eat it is in the cramped stalls of the outdoor market.
Bánh Bao Bánh Vạc
White rose dumplings are small rounds of rice paper that are filled with meat or shrimp and carefully folded to resemble a rose before being steamed. The water must be taken from the ancient Ba Le Well and purified 15 times before use. The recipe for banh bao banh vac is a closely guarded secret, held by one single family in the town that supplies all the restaurants. Many would say that you haven’t sampled Hoi An’s cuisine until you’ve had a taste of these airy dumplings.
Bún Thịt Nướng
Despite not being an exclusively Hoi An dish, as evening draws near, dozens of small stalls lining the northern bank of the Thu Bồn river light their barbeques and begin selling thịt nướng; seared skewers of pork with a spicy dipping sauce. Some vendors serve them up with cold rice-vermicelli noodles, peanuts, herbs and nước mam fish sauce but the skewers on their own are a cheap and cheerful snack to pick up on the go, setting you back around 30p a go.
Where to Eat in Hoi An
Nu Eatery
Don’t be put off by the tumbledown exterior and worn decor, Nu was one of my favourite places to eat in Hoi An. It may be a struggle to find as it’s tucked away down a narrow street behind the Japanese covered bridge, but it is worth the extra effort. The menu is short, but that just means that the dishes are perfectly crafted. I highly recommend giving the steamed pork belly buns a go.
Where: 10A Nguyễn Thị Minh Khai
Rosie’s Cafe
Just a short walk down the alleyway from Nu Eatery is Rosies, a mix between an airy, modern coffee house and Vietnams traditional love of caffeinated beverages. Owners My and Thuy have used inspiration from their extensive travels to concoct a cosy and hip enclave in this quiet corner of the Old Town. Expect to find groups of expats and backpackers in there tapping away at their MacBooks while sampling the delicious juices.
Where: 8/6 Nguyễn Thị Minh Khai
Hoa Hien
Tucked away to the east of the old town on the banks of the Thu Bon River, Hoa Hien has the benefit of being away from the crowds and a serene location. I wouldn’t have even thought of visiting if it wasn’t for a tip of from one of my Instagram followers that is local to Hoi An. I decided to tuck into some bánh xèo, one of my favourite Vietnamese dishes that I had first sampled on my Saigon Street Food Tour. Bánh xèo is a crispy crepe stuffed with shrimp, vegetables and pork that you break apart and dip in a little bowl of fish and chilli sauce. The crepes at Hoa Hien were probably the best I tasted in Vietnam.
Where: 35 Trần Quang Khải
Bánh mì Phượng
If you have been travelling in Vietnam for any amount of time, you will already be well acquainted with bánh mì. These hollowed-out baguettes filled with pâté, meat and various vegetables are a streetfood staple from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi and everywhere in between. Despite the dish being widespread, there is definitely huge variations in quality and Bánh mì Phượng is widely considered to be the best in Hoi An, if not the whole country. The sandwiches here are so highly regarded that even Anthony Bourdain stopped by to film an episode of No Reservations here.
Where: 2B Phan Châu Trinh
Morning Glory
Considered by many to be on of the best restaurants in town, Morning Glory is set within a historic building and specialises in traditional and street food dishes. From the outside, it looks like the kind of place that I usually try to avoid; an expensive tourist trap in the heart of the historic town serving inauthentic food. Luckily, it is neither of those things. Run by celebrity chef, Trinh Diem Vy, Morning Glory has become a mainstay in the Hoi An foodie scene, serving local specialities such as cao lau. Expect to pay around 200,000 VND for a meal for two, including drinks.
Where: 106 Nguyễn Thái Học
Where to Drink in Hoi An
As evening time descends, Hoi An’s old town comes alive as enchanting lanterns bathe the streets in colourful light and tourists float hundreds of candles along the Thu Bon River. This golden hour is my favourite time to be in Hoi An; sitting on the waterfront nursing a beer and watching the boats paddle by while the glorious sunset illuminated the cracked yellow facades of the city’s ancient homes.
On An Hoi Island, the western of the two islands that connect to the Old Town, a single strip of bars light up in an evening, blaring music and catering to a mostly foreign, backpacker crowd. It’s a good idea to walk along Nguyen Phuc Chu and look for signs advertising ‘fresh beer’ or bia hơi. The beer is brewed daily and only matured for a short time before serving in small tumblers. You can find it for anywhere between 3,000 and 7,000 VND (10 – 25p).
Dive Bar
Just in case you’re wondering, Dive Bar isn’t a run-down drinking spot, the name actually refers to the fact that it is the home of Cham Island Divers, a scuba outfit that runs out of the premises. It is one of the old towns most popular bars, with its informal atmosphere, pool tables and occasional live music performances. It attracts a young crowd, mostly tourists and ex-pats, that come for the friendly service, relaxed ambience and constant supply of free shots.
Where: 88 Nguyễn Thái Học
When: Thurs to Sat 5pm – 2am; Sun 5pm – 1am
Market Bar
Despite being in the heart of the Old Town, the rooftop terrace of Market Bar sits above the chaotic tourist throng of the streets below, offering a serene respite from the hubbub while offering a scenic view across the historic Old Quarter buildings and their twinkling lantens.
This quiet bar can be a little difficult to find and not one you are likely to stumble across by accident; It sits above a shop on the corner of Bạch Đằng and Cẩm Châu bridge overlooking the river. Luckily this means that at quiet times, stepping into Market Bar can feel like discovering your own secret drinking spot. It’s certainly more laid back than the popular bars lining the riverbanks in the centre of town, and much better for it.
Where: Số 02, Bạch Đằng
When: Daily 3pm – 11pm
Tiger Tiger Bar
If you’re wanting somewhere a little more lively, then look no further than Tiger Tiger. Of all the bars lining Nguyen Phuc Chu, this place seems to be the backpacker’s bar of choice, constantly packed while the surrounding establishments remain vacant. Happy ‘hour’ runs from 7.30 pm – 10 pm, during which the venue turns from a regular bar to a full-on club. It’s not my scene, but it’s the main place to party with other travellers in Hoi An.
Where: Phường Minh An
Mai Fish
If you have read my other Vietnam guides, you will know that I’m a sucker for anywhere that serves Pasteur Street Brewing Co. ales and Mai Fish is one of the few places in Hoi An that you will find it. In fact, it was only the glowing advertisement outside of the restaurant that drew me in. Mai Fish is more a quiet bistro/restaurant than bar but it has a picturesque riverside setting and cute beer garden, making it the perfect place to sit and relax with a craft beer. Across the river, Mango Mango also serves Pasteur’s brews.
Where: 45 Nguyễn Thị Minh Khai
Where to Stay in Hoi An
Deciding where to stay in Hoi An can be a tough choice. There is the Ancient Town, where the majority of the attractions, restaurants, and bars are located, its immediate surrounds such as Cam Nam and Tan An, or the beach. The decision really comes down to personal preference.
If your main reason for visiting Hoi An is to sample the history and culture of its ancient centre, then staying in the old town and its surrounds would be best. As most central hotels can be expensive, I recommend booking a hostel in nearby Tan An or Cam Nam. Tan An is the newer, more modern part of the city, but has the benefit of being surrounded by lush, green rice paddies and is only a short walk (20-30 mins) or cycle (5-10 mins) from the riverside. Again, Cam Nam is close-by, but a bicycle makes trips into town a little easier.
For beach lovers that only intend on visiting the town once or twice, An Bang Beach may be the best option. It is a long bike ride from the centre so a shuttle or taxi is probably required to reach the Ancient Town. Failing that, you can always hire a moped to make the 10-15 minute journey.
Vietnam Backpacker Hostel
One of the latest offerings from the trusted chain of hostels, Hoi An Backpacker Hostel has everything a traveller could need. It is centrally located halfway between the historical town and Cửa Đại beach. As well as having a huge pool, the hostel offers a free breakfast, nightly themed parties and has an on-site bar. For those looking to get out of town, trips to My Son and the Cham Islands, as well as further afield, are organised by the hostel.
Sunshine Hotel
After slumming it in sketchy Saigon hotels, Sunshine Hotel felt like a backpacker’s dream to me. Hot, powerful showers, a spacious room, and expansive, free breakfast meant I was in my element. It is situated a little far from the action (around a 30-min walk to the riverside) on the edge of town but they offer a free shuttle to the historic centre and have bicycles that you are able to borrow to explore the surrounding rice fields. . The outdoor pool is a lovely bonus.
Under the Coconut Tree
Situated, yes you guessed it, in a lush grove of coconut trees, Under the Coconut Tree is a stark contrast to the bustle of Hoi An’s historic centre. It is fairly rustic; bamboo and rattan huts clustered around a huge communal dorm, each bed coming with mosquito nets, power outlets and an under-bed locker. The private rooms aren’t too fancy but it is also just a short walk down a private path to the beach, making this the place to stay for backpackers in An Bang
