There’s a fairytale air about Štramberk. Sitting in the rolling green foothills of the Beskydy mountains, the winding narrow streets are lined with folksy, timbered buildings dating from the 18th and 19th century. The colourful facades the encircle the town’s main square wouldn’t be out of place on front of a chocolate box. Then there are the remains of the castle of Strallenberg that loom above it all from the crest of the village. With its cylindrical stone and wood tower – known locally as Trúba – you half expect a captive Rapunzel to appear and unfurl her hair down its length for a waiting Prince below.
Even on the muggy mid-July day that I visit an odour of gingerbread – a scent that I and many others would most closely associate with a snow-filled Christmas scene – fills the air, only adding to the impression that you are walking through the pages of a Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm story come to life. This is the scent of Štramberk’s local delicacy: Štramberské uši.
However, the tale of how this sweet treat originated is not quite as picturesque as the town that they are associated with and the day that they commemorate was not nearly as sun kissed as the one that I am experiencing. The gruesome legend has it that the tradition of baking these gingerbread cookies was born during the Tatar invasions.
The story goes that in 1241, Tartar hordes descended upon this quaint North Moravian settlement. Folklore weaves a gripping tale of resilience as the townsfolk sought refuge upon a nearby hill, their spirits undeterred by their losses and the relentless rain.
As they huddled together, the ingenious men of Štramberk hatched a plan. They turned their attention to a nearby pond, swollen by the ceaseless downpour. Purposely breaching the embankment, they unleashed a torrential flood that swept away the encroaching enemy camp like a fleeting mirage.
When the dawn broke, all that remained of the enemy camp were leather sacks, tightly packed with severed human ears, haunting souvenirs of the invaders’ bloody conquest. These macabre trophies were intended to provide proof of victory to a distant Kahn but instead, stood as chilling testament to the valor of the locals and their unwavering defense of their town.
In honor of this historic event, the people of Štramberk began an annual tradition. Each year, they would craft ear-shaped cookies, a poignant reminder of their forebears’ courage and sacrifice. This tradition gained even greater significance in 1660 when the Jesuits established an annual pilgrimage to the sacred hill, commemorating the heroic victory of Štramberk’s Christian inhabitants over the marauding Mongolian invaders from times long past.
The devoted pilgrims, after traversing the arduous path marked by fourteen Stations of the Cross, received a sweet reward for their spiritual journey: the Štramberk ears. These delectable treats, cone-shaped, light brown, and flavoured with a secret mix of spices where intended to represent the legacy of the townspeople who, in the face of adversity, had triumphed and endured.
Baking ears is a tradition that has managed to endure throughout the centuries and today, there are a number of producers in the town. Local confectioner Ladislav Hezký of bakery Cukrárna U Hezounů is one in a long line of bakers keeping the tradition alive. He has been baking ears since he was just 8 years old, first offering a helping hand to his mother before founding his own bakery in 1989.
In the kitchen above his café, Mr Hezký talks us through the baking process. The dough – made from a mixture of water, flour, sugar, egg, baking powder, and his own secret spice blend – is rolled by hand before being cut into circles just a few millimetres thick. These disc-shaped gingerbread biscuits are then baked before being placed inside cone shaped moulds to give them their iconic ear shape.
The fresh ears that we sample are still warm, soft, and supple but I’m told that they harden after cooling to give a typical gingerbread crunch. Gradually, after a few days, they will begin to soften again as the biscuits absorb moisture from the air.
On a good day, the team of three employees can roll, cut and bake over 3000 ears that are sold almost entirely in Czechia.
You will have noticed that I mentioned previously that Ladislav Hezký’s spice mix is a secret. Every baker in Štramberk has their own special recipe, slightly altering the dough blend to differentiate themselves from each other.
Since 2007, the town of Štramberk and its ears have protected designation of origin status from the EU, which clearly defines the ingredients, but the ratios are up to each baker. There are three crucial spices: cinnamon, cloves and star anise with many baker also adding a pinch of allspice and aniseed. Around a dozen bakers in the North Moravian town are licenced to bake and sell the origin-protected Štramberk ears and the local baker’s guild determines who can make them, provided they meet certain criteria such as a ten-year permanent residence in Štramberk.
The result of this variation is an annual baking contest held on the last Saturday of April at which Ladislav has won ‘Best Štramberk Ear’ on multiple occasions and even holds the record of producing the largest ever ear, measuring an enormous 1.8m in diameter. According to him, it had to be cooked outdoors in a pan weighing half a ton and 8 men were needed to carry the dough.
We leave Cukrárna U Hezounů armed with cookie samples and make our way towards the remains of Štramberk’s castle, satisfied that Mr. Hezký’s sweet treats and personality have done something to banish the bloody tale of the ear’s origins from our minds. The quaint and romantic qualities of the town do their part to help too.
Passing the main square, the pale pink spire of the Baroque Church of St. John of Nepomuk is the standout feature but all of the buildings that line the Náměstí have a quaint appeal – from the pastel green of Hotel Šipka to historic municipal brewery and airy courtyard of the Štramberk Spa. Above all of this, the Trúba looms, visible throughout our walk upwards towards the hilltop on which it stands proud, through the narrow streets of iconic wooden buildings that the town is famed for. They have been built since the 15th century, influenced by the folksy architecture of Wallachia. People living in Štramberk have created their own version of these wooden buildings, which can still be seen all over town, only adding to the atmosphere.
Štramberk itself predates these buildings by a few centuries. The settlement was founded by the son of Bohemia’s king John of Luxembourg, the Margrave of Moravia John Henri of Luxembourg. On December 4, 1359, he signed the decree officially acknowledging the town of Štramberk’s location and existence.
At the time of the town’s founding, the castle and tower already existed. Although why and for how long is up for debate. Its origins are completely unknown (there is an old wife’s tale that claims the original planned location was on the opposite hill, Kotouè, but that construction was prevented by dwarves from the Devil’s hole cave).
It is thought that it was built to was made to protect country boundaries. According to the most recent studies, it is assumed that the castle was built either by members of a local aristocratic family, Benešovic, or by the princes of the Pøemyslide family. In the 13th century, the castle was owned by the knights of the Templar order and after the abolition of the order in 1312, the castle came under the administration of the Czech king Jan Lucemburský.
Not much of the castle remains these days. In 1783, the outer part of the castle collapsed, and the masonry was used to construct local houses. The 40m tall cylindrical tower has stood the test of time though and thanks to the work of Prague architect Kamil Hilbert, who added a roof and timber walkway around the exterior in 1903.
It’s worth scaling the rickety looking wooden spiral staircase to reach the walkway too. The 360 degree view of the town and the Beskydy mountains is unrivalled, and almost enough to make you forget about bags of salted ears, even just for the duration of your time up there.
How to Get to Štramberk
The nearest city to Štramberk is Ostrava, Czechia’s third largest after Prague and Brno. There are regular, direct flights between London Stanstead Airport and Ostrava’s Leoš Janáček Airport, located 25km from the city centre and reachable via the S4 trainline.
Alternatively, Katowice Airport is located just one hour away by road with a Flix Bus service running between the Airport and Ostrava. If, like me, London Stansted is a little too far to travel to, there are regular flights to Katowice from a number of UK bases.
From Ostrava
There are regular, direct trains to Štramberk from Ostrava Hlavni Nadrazi. The journey takes approximately 55 minutes and will cost anywhere between £2 and £6 depending on ticket type/class. There are also a number of indirect journeys requiring a change at Studenka Train Station.
From Brno
Trains run almost hourly between Brno and Štramberk, again changing at Studenka Train Station. The journey takes around two and a half hours with tickets costing between £10 and £20. The Riojet bus is a cheaper option and runs 5 times per day. However, you will need to alight at the Pribor U Posty Bus Stop in Kopřivnice and take a taxi for the final 10 minutes of the journey towards Stramberk.
From Prague
There are multiple services running between Praha Hlavni Nadrazi and Štamberk each day, however, the journey takes 4hours 45 minutes with a change at Studenka Train Station. If driving, the 219 mile route will take you approximately 3hours and 25 minutes.
Things to do in Štramberk
While Štramberk is only a small town, its long history and rich cultural traditions mean that there is more than enough to keep you busy for a day or two. Add to this the surrounding nature and hiking trails and you won’t be left wanting in terms of activities.
Climb The Trúba Tower
The dominant feature of the town, the ruins of the Strallenberg (Štramberk) castle is located on the rocky top of the so-called Castle Hill. Not much of the castle remains, but some of the inner walls and the reconstructed guard tower which serves as a tourist viewpoint can still be seen.
Trúba Tower (entry fee 100 CZK), stands 40 m high and is accessible via a three-pronged wooden staircase up to an extended wooden observation deck from which you can enjoy a wonderful view of the Štramberk’s square as well as the peaks of Kotouč, Bílá hora, and the Beskydy mountains.
Šipka cave
Although the town of Stramberk was officially founded in 1359, it has had residents since prehistoric times. In 1880, professor K. J. Maška unearthed part of a Neanderthal child’s lower jawbone in the Šipka cave (Czech for ‘Arrow Cave’), that can be found halfway up the hill stands opposite the Trúba tower. The Jawbone is thought to date from around 40,000 BC and is one of the most interesting archaeological discoveries in the Czech Republic. The cave is freely accessible and can be accessed via a trail from Národní sad park.
Zdeněk Burian Museum
Although Kopřivnice-native and world-renowned painter Zdeněk Burian only spent a few of his formative years in Stramberk, his work will always be connected to the town, particularly the inspiration he took from Šipka Cave. Muzeum Zdeňka Buriana is dedicated to his work, which brought the prehistoric world to life.
Tatra Museum, Kopřivnice
I was a little unsure when I was offered the chance to visit the Tatra Technical Museum in the nearby town of Kopřivnice. While Czechia is known for producing world class vehicles (Pilsen’s history with Skoda is testament to this), how interesting could a museum dedicated to Tatra trucks possibly be.
I was wrong. Opened in 2021 in the company’s former foundry, the Tatra museum explains how it was here that the first motorised vehicle to hit the streets of Austria-Hungary was produced in 1897 and features an enormous collection of the companies trucks, fire engines and military vehicles, including the T805 truck that was riven by the famous Czechoslovak travellers Hanzelka and Zikmud, and the vehicle driven by Karel Loprais, who won the Dakar Rally on multiple occasions.
Most notably, each display is interactive thanks to the use of tablets loaded with augmented reality technology. Pointing the camera at information boards will translate them into different languages, play videos and hilariously, allow you to drive your own virtual Tatra vehicle throughout the exhibition space.
Bílá hora
If you would like to take a short hike while in Štramberk without venturing too far from the town, you can follow the signposted trail from the castle to Bila Hora (white mountain). It is about a 1km walk each way and you will be met with a double helix inspired lookout tower once you reach the peak. The tower stands 26 metres tall and offers a nice view of the highest peaks of the Beskydy and Hostýn Hills.
The tower is open between April 29 and October 31 from 9:00 am to 6:00 pm except on Mondays when it is closed. Entry costs 35 CZK for adults and 25 CZK for children under 15. Children under 6 get free entry.
Where to Eat and drink in Štramberk
City Brewery Štramberk
Stramberk’s Municipal Brewery has been crafting ales for over 150 years and the atmospheric bar and restaurant still exude old-world charm. Serving beers from both their own brewery and from Kozlovický brewery such as a light unfiltered pilsner type lager and a dark lager, there is no better place in town to stop for a pint.
Where: Náměstí 5
When: Sun 11am – 10pm; Mon to Thurs 11am – 10pm; Fri 11am – 10.30pm; Sat 10am – 11.30pm
Štramberk Spa
Set within the gorgeous Štramberk Spa Hotel, the restaurant and adjoining, secluded courtyard provides a calming environment for drinks, that includes a good selection of domestic wines and local beers. The food is great too – A mix of traditional Czech dishes such as schnitzel and pork tenderloin along with plates of delicious pasta and crisp salads.
Where: Náměstí 8
When: Daily 9am – 12am
Pizzerie Piccolo
When travelling, I will generally tend to sample the local cuisine than veer towards more international fair. However, If you have had your fill of Czech dishes and nibbling on ears, then you can never go wrong with Pizza. Piccolo have the best in town but also offer salads, burgers, pasta and antipasti.
Where: Náměstí 10
When: Sun to Thurs 11am – 9pm; Thurs & Fri 11am – 10pm
Cukrárna U Hezounů
If you are going to sample Štramberské uši from anywhere in town, make it the café and adjoining bakery U Hezounů. Owner Ladislav Hesky had been baking ears with his mother since he was 8 years old and went on to found his own bakery in 1989. To this day, he still makes his ears in the traditional way, rolling and shaping the dough by hand. He has won the accolade of ‘best Štramberk ear’ on multiple occasions and even holds the record for producing the biggest, measuring a whopping 180cm in diameter.
Where: Zauličí 557
When: Daily 9am – 5pm
Where to Stay in Štramberk
Despite being popular with tourists, Štramberk is a relatively small village and there aren’t a great deal of hotel options on offer. However, you will find some hotels taking residence in the beautiful, pastel façade buildings of the town’s square, spa hotels and a good number of rental properties in the surrounding area.
Budget
Hotel Gong
On the surface, Hotel Gong appears a little basic, dated. However, it is just a short walk from the main square and a good budget option that still manages to retain all of the amenities that you could need for a short stay in Štramberk. The hotel also has an onsite restaurant serving both Czech and international cuisine.
Classic Choice
Hotel Šipka
Sitting proudly on Štramberk’s main square with its beautiful, pastel green, Art Nouveau façade, Hotel Šipka is a classic choice when staying in Štramberk. The interiors may be a little dated but manage to retain a historic charm. The hotel also offers a garden, terrace and a restaurant serving fantastic Czech cuisine.
Spa Hotel
Štramberk Spa
The historic building of the Štramberk Spa resort is located in a quiet corner of Štramberk’s town square, hidden behind a peaceful courtyard that is perfect for dinner and drinks on a peaceful summer evening. The hotel building also hosts the Lašské beer baths, where guests can soak in a mixture of warm water, hops, and malts while sipping a beer, visit the wellness center, or relax in a salt cave.
When is the Best time to Visit Štramberk?
I visited Štramberk at the height of summer when the town and surrounding hills were bathed I glorious sunshine. While I would generally recommend avoiding July and August for visiting tourist hotspots in Europe and opting instead for the shoulder season, Štramberk was relatively peaceful and quiet. Visiting at this time is more likely to give you good weather if you plan on hiking, either up to Bila Hora or in the nearby mountains.
Winter, however, can be a magical time in Štramberk. As fresh-baked ears fill the air with the sweet scent of gingerbread, the foothills of the Beskydy mountains are enveloped in a sheet of white and snow covers the roofs of the towns picturesque timbered houses as warming light glows outwards from their windows. In the main square, the pastel colours of the Art Nouveau buildings with the Trúba tower rising above only adds to impression that you are wondering through a winter wonderland.
Each December and January, there are also nativity scenes featured in windows of historical buildings all around Štramberk, giving you an excuse to brave the snow and take a stroll around the charming, winding streets of wooden cottages.
I attended Colours of Ostrava as a guest of Moravia Silesia Tourism. However, all views expressed are my own.
