Recessing inland from Montenegro’s sun kissed Adriatic coast, the Bay of Kotor is a tourist draw thanks to charming towns that are brimming with rich history, its tranquil waters, and the breathtaking mountainous backdrop. Alongside all of these delights, it’s also a haven for foodies.
Cuisine in the region is mostly influenced by the body of water that sits at its centre; You will find fresh seafood on most menus, caught the same day by the fleets of small vessels that embark on the journey through the mouth of the bay and out into the Mediterranean in search of octopus, squid and tuna that is often cooked and served in a simple, fuss-free manner.
At the same time, Montenegrin food is one that draws influences from surrounding regions. It’s a melting pot of cultural influences ranging from Italian and Balkan to Croatian and Greek. While pasta and pizza feature heavily on menus, borrowing from their neighbours across the Adriatic – often featuring locally sourced shrimp, mussels and clams – so do meat-heavy traditional dishes from Serbia and Albania such as cevapcici, pljeskavice, raznjici, as well as Montenegro’s own famous Njegusi sausage.
Where to Eat and Drink Around Kotor Bay
It’s been a long time since Kotor has been considered a hidden gem or off-the-beaten-path destination. Its UNESCO World Heritage status has brought the crowds. Now, multiple enormous cruise ships drop their anchor in the bay each day, packing the old town with tourists and increasing the number of disappointing tourist trap restaurants that have popped up to capitalise on Montenegro’s new-found popularity.
That isn’t to say that there aren’t some truly wonderful dining experiences to be found in Kotor itself. The Old Town is dotted with picturesque and atmospheric little squares that can provide and tranquil al fresco dining experience in an evening once the cruise-goers have made their way back to their cabins. While some of the places that line the squares pump out over-priced, low-quality food, there are gems to be found amongst them, especially if you choose to head down the narrow, winding backstreets.
However, some of the best gastronomic experiences are found outside of the city itself. Smaller towns and villages play host to some fantastic family-run tavernas, all utilising produce from the hills and countryside that surround the bay as well as local cheeses, bread and cured meats.
This list below is in no way extensive, but it represents a selection of the region’s finest restaurants and bars for anyone looking to avoid a disappointing meal.
Konoba Scala Santa, Kotor
Picture the scene: The sun is setting, bathing the stone buildings of Kotor’s old town in glowing orange hues. You’re sat in a quiet, atmospheric square, a glass of local wine in hand while people mill around. A busker entertains passers-by with traditional Montenegrin songs on his accordion and laughing kids frolic in the plaza’s water fountain.
This is what I experienced while dining at Scala Santa which seems like a perfectly quaint ambience in which to be enjoying Kotor’s oldest restaurant. The restaurant first opened its doors in 1931 and still oozes the same century-old charm thanks to its authentic interior, open fireplace and wooden beams that cross its low ceiling. This is very much a traditional tavern and a perfect escape from the bustle of the Old Town.
However, if you do want to be in the midst of the action, Scala Santa’s large terrace spills out into the plaza and is the perfect place to sit with an aperitif or enjoy your meal later into the evening. Like most restaurants in the country, the menu is packed with pasta, seafood, and typical fish dishes all giving a sense of home cooking, particularly the fish stew that the restaurant is most well-known for.
I opted to give the seafood a miss, after a week of eating nothing but fish. Instead, I decided to devour the spicy beef pasta and certainly wasn’t disappointed.
Where: 85330 Trg od Salate, Kotor
When: Daily 10am – 10pm
Konoba Škver, Herceg Novi
Often called ‘The City of the Sun’ thanks to the large number of sunny days it experiences throughout the year, the town of Herceg Novi sits at the mouth of the Bay of Kotor, its fortresses and steps cascading down a steep hillside and leading to its harbour.
It’s this connection to the sea and the bay that defines much of the menus in the town, with seafood in abundance. One restaurant in particular is famed for its fish, squid and octopus – Konoba Škver. The owner of Konoba Škver is a keen tuna fisherman, often heading out on his boat in the morning to seek a fresh catch that he can serve to diners. However, the restaurant is also known for its wonderful, traditional seafood risottos, both shrimp and saffron or a traditional black risotto dish.
On top of the wonderful food, the setting adds to the atmosphere. The restaurant sits right beside the water, with views of the harbour and small boats bobbing on the waves just a few feet away.
Where: 42 Pet Danica Walkway, Herceg Novi
When: Daily 12pm – 11.30pm
Restaurant Conte, Perast
Possibly the most alluring town that sits on the shores of the Bay of Kotor, Perast was once rich and powerful, as seen in the fact that this small settlement contains 16 churches and 17 sprawling palaces (most of which are now home to restaurants and hotels). This is all despite only having one street, which curves along the waterfront and is buzzing with tourists, bars and dining spots.
These waterfront terraces are beautiful spaces to spend the evening gorging on local cuisine while looking out at the two islands that sit in the bay a short distance from the shore: Gospa of Škrpjela – an island that was artificially created in 1452 around a rock where locals discovered an image of the Madonna, eventually building a church in the 17th century – and Sveti Djordje, which houses a Benedictine Monastery and is said to be cursed.
Thankfully, Hotel Conte has a less sinister reputation. Sitting within a palace that was lovingly restored by the Kasalica family and transformed into the Conte Hotel and Restaurant. The buildings have been modernised while taking care to preserve their original character, indigenous architecture and historical elements and the restaurant aims to revive old Montenegrin recipes using fresh. local ingredients, such as Montenegrin fish, red shrimps from Albania, oysters from Mali Ston, and Kvarner shrimps.
Where: bb Ul. Marka Martinovića, Perast
When: Daily 8am – 12am
Ćatovića Mlini, Morinj
You only have to look at the wall of luminaries that adorns the wall of Ćatovića Mlini to see its place in the Montenegrin culinary scene: A photographic who’s who of the nation’s celebrities alongside international stars such as Novak Djokovic, Gerard Butler, and strangely, Bruce Forsyth, who have all chosen to dine here.
Meaning ‘the Catovic’s Mills’, Catovica Mlini is where the Catovic family has used their mills for over two centuries to make flour. In the last 25 years, the latest owner Lazar and his family have worked lovingly to turn the former mill buildings into one of Montenegro’s best restaurants.
This gives it an idyllic countryside setting, just inland from the small coastal village of Morinj, halfway between the larger settlements of Herceg Novi and Kotor. The romantic old stone mills are still there, along with the water wheel and the stream that serves it.
Geese and peacocks wander around the luscious, mountain-backed grounds, and the soothing sound of babbling waterways creates a tranquil atmosphere. Dining here feels like you are in the remote countryside, despite only being a few minutes from the busy coastline of Boka Bay.
It isn’t just the location that makes Catovica Mlini so appealing. The menu is the main draw, packed with traditional Njegusi specialities made from locally sourced ingredients giving a farm-to-fork dining experience paired with some of the finest local wines.
We opted for a 5-course tasting menu with a wine pairing that offered octopus, a mixed seafood platter, and seabass on black rice with a white truffle sauce that was absolutely delectable.
Where: E65, Morinj 85338
When: Daily 12pm – 9pm
Kraken Underwater Wine Cellar
Anyone who has travelled to Montenegro will be aware of the country’s rich winemaking traditions. Still, the people behind Kraken Wine Cellar have elevated this heritage by harnessing the power of the sea to create a revolutionary approach to winemaking.
Inspired by tales of shipwrecks found to contain centuries-old bottles of wine that have been perfectly preserved, the Kraken team decided to place 200 bottles at the bottom of the sea, intrigued by the possibility of enhancing the ageing process using the sea’s natural elements. After salvaging their bounty a year later, they found that the process had worked – the wine was more refined.
Although this may sound like a bit of a gimmick, it’s thought that the constant pressure, temperature, absence of light and noise, along with gentle constant currents are all beneficial for ageing wine using this method.
You can sample these wines by taking a tender out to Kraken’s cool pontoon wine bar, floating out in the bay between Orahovac and Perast. Here you can indulge in delectable fresh seafood while sipping this unique wine in a rather distinctive setting. They also offer visits to the wine bar as part of their boat tours around the bay.
Where: Dražin Vrt 85330
Lighthouse Restaurant and OLE! Beach & Bar, Hyatt Regency Kotor
Nestled beside the waters of Boka Bay, within a short drive of both Tivat and the charming old town of Kotor, the tranquil Hyatt Regency Kotor Bay Resort offers one of the most luxurious stays to be found in Montenegro.
The hotel’s on-site restaurants are no different. Accessible by boat via the hotel’s private marina, The Lighthouse Restaurant offers an ever-evolving à la carte menu of seasonal Mediterranean cuisine with an Adriatic Sea backdrop surrounded by the Bay’s stunning fjord Landscape.
For a more casual dining experience, the beachfront Olé! Beach and Bar dishes out exotic cocktails and Latin specialities such as tacos ceviche just metres from the water’s edge, all to the upbeat sounds of salsa and Latino rhythms.
Where: Hyatt Regency Kotor Bay Resort, Donji Stoliv bb, 85330
When: Daily 12pm – 12am
Rooftop Terrace Hippocampus, Kotor
Located inside of a centuries-old building in the centre of Kotor’s old town, Boutique Hotel Hippocampus Is one of the city’s most stylish and romantic places to stay. Even if you don’t have a room of your own, you can drop in to experience the hotel’s roof terrace which offers wonderful views over the nearby red-tiled roofs and church spires while sipping your freshly made cocktail.
I only stopped in for a drink and didn’t get to sample the food, but I hear that they also have a fantastic menu of Mediterranean cuisine.
Where: Hotel Hippocampus, Old Town 489, Kotor
When: Daily 9am – 11pm
Moritz Eis, Kotor
The question of which shop serves the best Ice Cream in Kotor is hard-fought, with so many establishments vying for the money of sweltering tourists. I wouldn’t normally recommend a chain, instead opting for a local, independent spot. However, the gelato from Moritz Eis was good enough to shout about.
They have 9 stores in Montenegro, 2 of which are in Kotor while the others are in Tivat, Perast, Budva and Herceg Novi. All of these serve the same flavours which range from traditional tastes such as chocolate, berries or salted caramel, to the more interesting rhubarb and ginger or baked peach and vanilla. I chose to give my tastebuds a challenge and sample the lemon and basil sorbet, which is as delicious as it sounds.
Where: 293 Pjaca od salate, Kotor
When: Daily 9am – 10pm
BBQ Tanjga, Kotor
While a lot of the restaurants on this list are slightly upmarket and not necessarily great for people on a budget, those looking for good, cheap Montenegrin street food should really look no further than BBQ Tanjga.
Sitting right on the bay, it doesn’t look like much from the outside – or even from the inside for that matter – but this unfussy dining spot is frequently listed as the number one place in Kotor to eat for a reason: They dish out huge portions of perfectly marinated and cooked grilled meats, from ribs, sausages and steaks to local dishes such as cevapcici and pljeskavice. Popular with both tourists and locals alike, this is a must-visit when you’re in Kotor, especially for the mixed grill platter which contains a variety of meats and fries served with salad, sauerkraut, sauces, and pickles.
Where: E65, Kotor
When: Mon to Sat 8am – 10pm; Sunday 11.30am – 10pm
Food Tours in Kotor, Montenegro
There are a huge selection of trips and tours around the Bay of Kotor that also include a tasting of local food and wine. From boat trips around the bay to hikes in the mountains and even dedicated food and wine tours, here are the best of the trips on offer that include a bite of local delicacies.
How to Get to Kotor, Montenegro
You will find all of the restaurants mentioned in this guide somewhere close to the banks of the Bay of Kotor, the vast inland bat that opens up from an inlet on Montenegro’s Adriatic coastline.
The closest airport is Tivat Airport, just 3km south of the town of the same name and is served by regular flights from a wide range of UK airports.
There are bus services running from close to the airport to most of the nearby resorts and towns. You will find bus stops on both sides of the highway, close to the small airport terminal. Buses to Bar, Budva and Kotor should run approximately every 40 minutes, but the service is not always reliable.
Alternatively, you can make your way to Tivat bus station, around 1 and a half kilometres or a 30-minute walk, from the airport. Here you will be able to book onward travel to most of Montenegro’s most popular destinations, however, if you are going to Hercog Novi, you will need to clarify if you would prefer a route that travels via ferry or the longer journey that travels along the road around the bay.
A more comfortable option is to hail a taxi from outside the airport. Trips by car to Kotor take just 15 – 20 minutes, although this can increase significantly in the summer when the main highway into town becomes congested.
For private transfers, I usually use Get Transfer, who will arrange for a driver to meet you on arrival. They will always arrive at a specified time or check the latest flight arrival times in case of delays. Pick-up at the airport with a nameplate is also included in the service price.
Getting Around
Although most of the towns around Boka bay are small and easily walkable, distances between them can be too protracted to tackle on foot. Thankfully, buses, boats, and taxis are readily available and are a convenient way to navigate the region, although bus rides can be slow due to heavy traffic on the narrow, winding roads.
if you are planning on visiting off-the-beaten-track locations or don’t want to have to rely on bus timetables, I highly recommend renting a car to traverse the region upon arrival at Thessaloniki airport. Discover Cars are a great company to use for this as they allow you to compare multiple providers before booking.
