At Vogelball, an industrial wasteland in the corner of Hamburg’s Wilhelmsburg neighbourhood unfurls to reveal a multisensory playground of music, visual art and performance. It’s a music festival without the bland corporate sponsorship, cut-and-paste line ups and generic atmosphere that defines most modern festivals. Instead, it is defined by its inclusive atmosphere and diverse community; a circus of hedonists, music lovers and party-goers who descend on the city’s MS Dockville for the first weekend of August each year dressed in feathers and glitter to dance the night away without a care.
Now in its ninth year, Vogelball has long been an integral part of kicking off MS Artville, an almost month-long open-air art exhibition that takes place beside the canals of Hamburg’s vast port area. ‘The Wilhemsburger Piep-Show’, as it is also known, is described by its creators as “a queer masquerade, an electronic surprise, a variety of intrigues, identities and inspirations” which champions an “open mind, acceptance, and diversity”. Traditionally, Vogelball coincides with the city’s Christopher Street Day parade, contributing to the fact, that Vogelball is a big event for Hamburg’s vibrant queer community.
As the name suggests (vogel meaning ‘bird’ in german), the festival has an avian slant, with attendees encouraged to don feathers, beaks and elegant wings if they would like to, or not if they choose. After all, this festival is about inclusivity and feeling comfortable with yourself.
In my mind, Hamburg seems to be the perfect fit for Vogelball’s ethos. Or maybe Vogelball is the perfect fit for Hamburg’s. Like most outward-looking ports, Hamburg has welcomed immigrants and sailors for hundreds of years, seeing itself as a gateway to the world rather than a city tied to the dealings of distant Berlin or Munich. For centuries as one of Europe’s largest and busiest ports, Hamburg has had connections to 170 countries with which it traded in cocoa, fabrics and tobacco. It has always been a melting pot, with people from all over the world settling here. Even today, the immigrant population of the city stands at over 15%.
This history of openness has easily transferred to the modern-day, making Hamburg a liberal city that prides itself on inclusivity. If a queer, bird-themed masquerade ball is to be held anywhere, Hamburg seems to be the perfect venue.
We convened backstage in order to splatter ourselves with sparkles and colourful plumage before the party began, with me opting for both a golden glitter mohican and shimmering beard which would constantly shed into my gin and tonic with each sip. There I was able to briefly chat with Vogelball’s creator and curator Arne Empen, a quietly charming man with horn rimmed specs and an infectious smile. He explained Vogelball’s essence is about “forgetting your woes, letting your hair down and shaking your tail feather in an accepting environment.” But why a masquerade ball, and why the bird theme? “Because when people are in costume they are more likely to be themselves and do as they please. They are ‘free as a bird’, if you will.”
“We aim to have an inclusive space. A space where people are free to be themselves, let their hair down and shake a tail feather.”
Wandering through the gates into the festival proper, there are eclectic delights in every corner: hidden sculptures and wooden walkways meandering through the trees give the site an otherworldly feel. Shimmering mirror ornaments hang from banches and grafitti covered statues emerge from between the food and drink stalls. There are climbing frames, fortresses and slides, as well as a giant, interactive 3D game of consequences. The site is an oasis of quirkiness, wonder and nature in what is otherwise a dilapidated dockland. The only gripe you could have is that you may miss more of the installations than you will see.
We emerge from the woods to find ourselves in front of a tiny stage decked out to resemble a wooden, alpine lodge. While Vogelball is a predominantly electronic music festival, no one seems to have told the first act we see who, dressed in a while robe reminiscent of a cross between a jilted bride and princess Leia, struts in front of the audience belting out soulful pop hits.
Then there is SADO OPERA, a band we stumble across midway through their set on another stage, dressed in stockings and suspenders with their faces painted in ghoulish white makeup. “We’re from St. Petersbourg in Russia” the lead singer, Colonel, exclaims “but we can’t play our music there” before launching into their raucous disco and electro-funk tinged single ‘Russian Anal Game’. If any band exemplifies the Vogelball spirit, it’s them. Despite leaving Russia for Berlin in 2014, they still have ties with the county’s LGBT community, where they continue to curate events and raise money for LGBT rights organisations. They say that their main aims are to unite like-minded individuals and get visible. For them, love is the ultimate act of subversion in our globally compromised political climate.
Finally, nighttime begins to descend. Sunlight spills spectacularly on to the gorgeous site as elongating shadows dance across the grass and the stages are bathed in a golden glow.
As the orange hues reflect off the rusting cranes than line the dilapidated dockside of Wilhelmsburg, the party begins in earnest. Thousands of sweaty bodies pack themselves in front of the main stage and gyrate to the sound of techno as their elevated arms cut through the lasers and streams of neon lights that bounce of the trees. It’s joyful, freeing and despite not being the biggest fan of electronic music, I can’t help but move with the flow of people.
Maybe it’s the welcoming atmosphere of Vogelball or the exuberance with which my fellow festival-goers throw themselves into proceedings but time seems to get away and my aversion to techno dissipates. By 3am, I find myself in a tent moving to a repetitive electronic beat followed by a final dance, squeezed into the packed, humid confines of a mystical castle-themed dancefloor.
With aching legs and tired eyes, I leave the avant-garde wonderland of MS Dockville for the real world, abandoning the night owls and morning larks as the late-summer dawn sun is beginning to stream on weary, feathered faces. No doubt they will be shaking their tail feathers for a few hours longer, but for me, the train back to St. Pauli feels even more sedate than normal due to the fact that it isn’t bathed in glitter, neon and fairytale fantasies.
Getting To & From Vogelball
We took a taxi from our hostel, Superbude St Paui, to Vogelball, however, to save money you can take the S-bahn from Hamburg Central Station to Wilhelmsburg and walk the 30-minutes to MS Dockville from there. It should be easy to find, just follow the crowd dressed in elaborate bird costumes. Alternatively, take the number 13 bus from central Hamburg and alight at Mengestrasse.
Upon leaving Vogelball, there is a free shuttlebus that leaves MS Dockville at regular intervals, dropping passengers at Hamburg-Wilhelmsburg station. The bus runs from around 10pm until the festival ends. The S-Bahn runs through the night.
Tickets
A general admission ticket for 2019’s Vogelball would have set you back €24 and can be bought online beforehand. Tickets are available on the night if the event doesn;t sell out, but it is best to buy in advance to avoid disappointment. Although ticket information for next year’s festival hasn’t been released, keep an eye on Vogelball’s Facebook page for up to date news.
What to Pack for Vogelball
Refillable water bottle
Vogelball likes to keep single-use plastics to a minimum, so unlike most festivals, they will allow you to bring your own refillable water bottle (provided it’s empty when you reach the gate). Taps with free, pottable water are dotted around the site to allow you to fill up.
Suncream
Although Vogelball is ostensibly a nighttime event, the festivities begin at 4pm. If you plan on arriving early, the sun will hopefully still be shining.
Cash
None of the bars or food stalls on site accept card payments so make sure that you bring enough cash to last the night. I’m not sure if there are any ATMs on site, but who wants to be queuing for money when there’s dancing to be done anyway?
Warm Clothes
As this is an all night, outdoor event, it can become a little chilly when you’re not dancing our waiting for the shuttle bus at the end of the night.
Phone and Portable Charger
Chances are, you will lose at least some of your friends over the course of the night so it is always a good idea to have your phone on you so that you can keep in touch. Make sure to pack a portable charger / power bank so that you don’t run out of battery.
Comfortable shoes
You will e dancing all night, possibly for 12 whole hours, so make sure you have comfortable trainers that won’t give you blisters and that you don’t mind getting muddy or dirty.
Tips & Advice for Vogelball
Arrive before the sun goes down
Although the main bulk of the evening's fun takes place once it gets dark, try to arrive at the site early. That way, you can explore all of the festivals spaces and areas, check out the art installations and the quirky decor while there is still enough light. As the sun sets, the entirety of MS Dockville is bathed in glorious, golden hues and people's glittery costumes shimmer in the fading evening light. It really is beautiful.
Keep hold of your cups
As Vogelball is a festival that strives for sustainability, none of the drinks come in single-use cups. You will be given a plastic tumbler and token with a €1 deposit. These can be exchanged at the bar whenever you like to get your euro back..
Dress to Impress
After all, this is technically advertised as a masquerade ball, so why not go all out and get dressed to the nines in an elaborate costume. I'm talking a huge amount of feathers and glitter. I regretted just wearing my usual t-shirt and shorts to the event but as this is a festival that prides itself on inclusivity and diversity, it doesn't really matter what you choose to wear. Some people put in a huge amount of effort with their outfits and make up while others, like me, didn't bother.
Bring Cash
As much as I love Germany, the one thing that frustrates me is that it is still very much a cash-driven society and card readers are a rarity rather than the norm. Vogelball is no different, so if you want to eat and drink at the festival, you will need to bring cash. A beer will set you back €4-5 while a cocktail or cup of prosecco is anywhere between €7.50-10.
Where to Stay in Hamburg
If a vibrant nightlife, cafe culture and super cool neighbourhoods are your thing, then look no further than Superbude St. Pauli Hostel. Located between the hip areas of St. Pauli and Sternschanze, Superbude oozes style and embraces the offbeat nature of this part of Hamburg. Furniture in its airy reception/dining area is made from upcycled wheel barrows, the headboards in its rooms from old goal nets – a nod to St. Pauli’s famous football team – and clothes hangers come in the form of plungers stuck to the walls. It is quirky and humorous without being pretentious. Despite styling itself as a hostel, this is more a boutique hotel in terms of quality and customer care but without the extortionate prices. They also have a hostel located in St. George if you need your bed to be a little more central.
Check out my review here.
Disclaimer: I was invited to Hamburg and Vogelball as a guest of Hamburg Tourism. However, all thoughts and opinions are my own.
