"As with circling round Of turrets, Monteriggioni crowns his walls; E’en thus the shore, encompassing the abyss, Was turreted with giants, half their length Uprearing, horrible, whom Jove from heaven Yet threatens, when his muttering thunder rolls."
When compared to the soaring medieval skyscrapers of nearby San Gimignano, the 14 towers of Monteriggioni can seem diminutive, but I imagine when viewed through the 14th century eyes of Dante Alighieri, they must have been have appeared magnificent and awe-inspiring, sitting like a stone crown atop a hill overlooking the Via Romea Sanese.
So much so that the “Supreme Poet” enshrined them in notoriety by comparing them to infernal giants in his most famous work, The Divine Comedy.
There’s a chance that my first view of Monteriggioni is almost identical to the one that inspired Dante: The towers gradually coming into view from behind the crest of its hill as I drove along the Raccordo Autostradale Firenze, between Tuscany’s historic rival cities, Florence and Siena, just as pilgrims on the Via Francigena – a once a busy medieval highway for the faithful and merchants that winds its way from Cantebury to Rome – have seen for centuries.
From the outside, the ringed walls seem unchanged since its construction by the Sienese in 1213. It’s immaculately preserved and intact ring of defensive walls stretch for 570 meters, punctuated by the 14 towers that inspired Dante’s words, and two gates – The Senese Gate that sits at the base of a square tower and the Florentine Gate, which is opens up in the curtain.
Heading through the gaping Franca or San Giovanni Door, I immediately find myself in the heart of the village. After all, Monteriggioni is tiny: it consists of one quaint square, Piazza Roma, hemmed in by a smattering of fantastic restaurants and bars on one side and the small but beautiful chapel of Santa Maria Assunta on the other. Back when the church was constructed, at the same time as the surrounding walls, it is thought that the piazza was a large vegetable garden that provided essential food items when the castle’s population came under siege.
Beyond the square and the main street that connects the two opposing gates, there isn’t much more of Monteriggioni to see. It largely consists of a tightly woven set of cobbled streets that wind between the historic buildings and green spaces, but it is worth stepping away from the main street to peek and stroll down these passageways. Other than the tourists, trinket shops, and trattoria’s, not much has changed here over the passing centuries and the castle’s quiet corners transport you back to the medieval world.
The truth is, Monteriggioni was never intended to be a village. The stone buildings were originally a garrison, part of the fortifications that the Sienese constructed to defend disputed borders against their historical rivals, the Florentines, who were seeking to expand their territories.
Its location on a natural hill overlooking the Via Cassia, a strategic position from which to control the Valdelsa territory and keep watch on the main road between the two cities, is perfectly positioned and manage to hold the ground until the 1550s when Florence defeated Siena for the final time, after which, Monteriggioni fell into obscurity.
The history of the garrison and the struggle between the two warring cities is laid out in the small but enjoyable Monteriggioni in Arms Museum, accessible at Piazza Dante Alighieri 23, detailing the time period in which Monteriggioni served as a military outpost of the Republic of Siena.
A ticket to the museum also includes entry to the town’s ramparts that are so remarkably well preserved that you are able to wander atop them much like the guards that would have once stood watch for opposing armies.
Although, the metal walkways that have replaced the stone-work are split into two sections, stopping you from tracing the entire circumference of the fortifications, scaling the walls allows for a unique perspective on the village and its buildings as well as spectacular views out towards the rolling hills of Tuscany.
From this vantage point, olive groves and vineyards spread out in all directions and in the distance, Chianti and Val d’Elsa opens up. It really is a breathtaking sight.
My watch complete, I manage to have seen most of what Monteriggioni has to offer in less than an hour. However, that is not the point in visiting. The real joy to be found in Monteriggioni is to soak in its historic atmosphere and medieval charm – to experience a centuries old village as it would have been all that time ago, with the exception of the gift shops and wine bars.
With wine on my mind, that is how I finish my trip, sipping a glass of local chianti in the midst of Piazza Roma as the crowds trickle away and the evening begins to descend on this its cobbles, shrouding the square in dusks glow and the glimmer of lamp light.
This may not be the same way that medieval visitors such as Dante experienced Monteriggioni and its towers, but its an experience I’m glad to be having.
Where is Monteriggioni?
Monteriggioni sits atop a hill surrounded by verdant countryside, just 14km northwest of Siena and around halfway between the city and Colle Val d’Elsa. It is 31km from the towering town of San Gimignano, with the route between the two making up the 32nd leg of the Via Francigena, considered by many to be one of the most beautiful sections to walk.
How to Get to Monteriggioni
The closest airport to Monteriggioni is Florence’s Amerigo Vespucci Airport, around an hour north of the town. It is possible to get to Monteriggioni from the airport by public transport, with the journey taking just over 2 hours and only requiring a change at Florence’s main station.
However, I found that Tuscany is best explored in your own vehicle, meaning that you aren’t relying on bus and rail timetables as well as giving you the opportunity to get off the beaten track.
You will find the airport’s car rental offices at “Palagio degli Spini”, connected to the airport by a free shuttle bus that runs every 20 minutes. I tend to use Discover Cars for my car rental when travelling, as they allow you to book in advance and compare multiple providers for the best deal.
Pre-booking a private transfer from Florence to Monteriggioni is also a good option. The service often costs around the same price as an Uber, with the bonus that you will not need to wait for your pickup or potentially have to traipse to a meeting point. This is particularly useful if arriving late at night, meaning that you won’t have to worry about the stress of finding a taxi when you’re tired. I usually use Get Transfer, who will arrange for a driver to meet you on arrival. They will always arrive at a specified time or check the latest flight arrival times in case of delays. Pick-up at the airport with a nameplate is also included in the service price.
From Siena
Monteriggioni is around 20km from Siena by car, with the journey between the two taking approximately 25 minutes. Although it’s possible to take a scenic route through the surrounding countryside, the easiest way is to travel northbound on the the Raccordo Autostradale Firenze-Siena, taking a left onto Via Cassia Nord/SR2 at La Colonna where Monteriggioni should be well-signposted.
If travelling by bus, they depart from the Siena-Via Tozzi stop and the journey takes approximately 40 minutes. It’s worth noting that you will be dropped off at a nearby roundabout rather than the village itself and will need to walk 10 minutes to reach the fortress. Look out for the brown Via Francigena sign that points uphill towards the town’s northern gate. I recommend checking Busitalia’s website for the latest timetables before you travel.
The nearest train station is Castellina in Chianti-Monteriggioni, a few kilometres away from Monteriggioni on the Empoli-Siena trainline. Trains leave frequently and the journey takes just 15 minutes and costs €3.
Check trains between Siena and Castellina in Chianti-Monteriggioni.
From Florence
It takes around an hour to reach Monteriggioni by car from Florence. Head south on the Raccordo Autostradale Firenze toward Siena, taking the Monteriggioni exit.
Buses to Monteriggioni leave Florence’s Autostazione Busitalia next to the Florence Santa Maria Novella train station. Although there are direct routes, some require changes in Siena or Poggibonsi. As above, you will need to alight at the nearby roundabout.
The train takes approximately the same amount of time as the bus (1hr and 30 minutes – 2 hours). There are no direct routes, but you can change in either Empoli or Poggibonsi to make your way to Castellina in Chianti-Monteriggioni.
Check train times and prices between Florence and Castellina in Chianti-Monteriggioni.
Parking Near Monteriggioni
Most Tuscan towns operate a strict ZTL system, a Limited Traffic Zone. This means that the Centro Storico (historic centre) is essentially closed to traffic, particularly for non-residents. Cars will need to be left outside the walls.
However, you should have no trouble finding a parking space near Monteriggioni as the large car park located just outside of the castle walls is almost as large as the village itself and costs from €3 for the hour and then €5 for 24 hours. From here, it is just a few minutes’ walk uphill to get to the entrance of the town at Porta Franca.
Visiting Monteriggioni On a Day Tour from Siena
Although Monteriggioni is easy enough to reach by car or public transport from both Florence and Siena, if you want to take in a few of the surrounding towns at the same time such as Colle Val d’Elsa and San Gimignano, or possibly visit some of the Chianti region’s excellent vineyards, then a guided tour may be the best option.
There are a number of excellent tours available on Get Your Guide, such as a wine tasting trip that takes in San Gimignano and Monteriggioni, or a half-day guided hike from Siena if you prefer exercise your legs rather than your liver.
Where to Stay in Monteriggioni
While most people choose to stay outside of Monteriggioni and visit as part of a day trip from Florence, Siena or San Gimignano, you can stay within the confines of the castle walls in several of the historic buildings that have been transformed into hotels or holiday homes.
Luxury
Hotel Monteriggioni
The finest and most luxurious accommodation in town, the 4-star hotel Monteriggioni occupies a historic building with 11 beautiful rooms, some of which have direct views overlooking the ancient fortress walls and beyond to the vineyards of Chianti. With its own private pool and garden, this is the perfect place for a romantic getaway.
Guests of Hotel Monteriggioni also have access to the hotel’s private parking, located inside the historical centre.
Holiday Home
Monteriggioni Castello
If you would prefer the privacy of self-contained accommodation, this 2 bedroom holiday home with its own sun terrace is a great alternative to Hotel Monteriggioni.
Boutique
Rooms and Wine al Castello
Sitting just off Piazza Roma, this historic family palazzo has been transformed into a cosy guesthouse. Each room is furnished with heirloom paintings and antiques, a modern bathroom and, above all, magnificent views from each window of Monteriggioni.
Things to do in Monteriggioni
Despite centuries passing since its construction, Monteriggioni has managed to retain much of its medieval character and the town itself – as well as the towering castle walls – are the main reason for visiting. While there are a couple of pleasant diversions in the form of a small museum and quaint church, the joy of Monteriggioni comes from lounging with a plate of pasta and a glass of wine in the main Piazza or wandering the small, cobbled streets that surround it.
Scale the Fortifications
Despite being constructed in the 13th century, the 570 metre long fortified wall that encircles Monteriggioni is still relatively intact, along with its 14 towers. Visitors are able to follow in the footsteps of the guards that used to patrol the walls and 2 gates – the Franca or Romea Gate which faces Rome and the other known as the Florentine Gate that, unsurprisingly, points toward Florence – and wander the ramparts for themselves in two different sections
The two walkways provide give a fantastic birds eye view of the castle as well as a breathtaking panorama that sweeps across the surrounding countryside, from the hills of Chianti to the woods of the Montagnola Senese, all the way to the towers of San Gimignano on a clear day.
I recommend going up both parts of the walls, but if you only have time to climb one, choose the section closest to Porta Franca as this is the longest and offers the best views.
Tickets can be purchased at the Monteriggioni Infopoint for €5 (free for children under 8 years old). Tickets for the walkways also include for entry to the Monteriggioni in Arms Museum and M.A.M (Archeological Museum Monteriggioni).
Monteriggioni in Arms Museum
The small but fascinating Monteriggioni in Arms Museum, just off Via I° Maggio and beside the official tourist office, consists of four rooms, each dedicated to a different period of the town’s history between the 13th and 16th centuries.
Alongside information relating to the time when Monteriggioni served as a military outpost of the Republic of Siena, you will find faithful reproductions of medieval armour and weapons (as well as a suit of armour that you can try on for yourself, which I obviously did), models of seige engines, and a few fairly creepy mannequins in period dress.
As entry is included with your purchase of tickets for the ramparts, it is worth stopping by to find out a little more of the town’s history.
Pieve Santa Maria Assunta
With its Romanesque and Gothic facade looking out onto Piazza Roma, the Church of Santa Maria Assunta was built in the 13th century at the same time as the rest of the castle. While it may not rival the cathedrals of Siena and Florence, its dark and peaceful interior offers a beautifully quiet spot for reflection if you are so inclined.
Where to Eat & Drink in Monteriggioni
Monterrigioni is a small place, but there are still a number of fantastic restaurants clustered around the main square, Piazza Roma, and on Via I° Maggio.
Osteria Antico Travaglio
Occupying a renovated building that was once an old stable, then a blacksmith’s workshop, Osteria Gelateria Antico Travaglio has been running since 1998, serving wonderfully fresh pasta made on site and traditional main courses such as the classic Florentine steak.
Where: Piazza Roma, 6/A
When: Daily 12.30pm – 3pm & 7pm – 10pm
Ristorante Il Feudo
This restaurant has been family-run for three generations and sits in the corner of Piazza Roma with seating spilling out onto the square. Their menu focuses on traditional Tuscan cuisine; Cinta Senese cold cuts, pecorino cheeses, tasty ragù cooked for hours as per the local culinary tradition, and excellent stewed wild boar.
Where: Piazza Roma, 16
When: Saturday & Sunday 11am – 2pm and 6.30pm – 10.30pm
Restaurant da Remo
Set within the confines of a 14th century stone building, this rustic Tuscan restaurant dishes up fantastic homemade pasta, truffles, game and Chianana meats. Make sure to take advantage of the excellent wine list while relaxing in their secluded garden at the foot of the fortress walls.
Where: Via I° Maggio, 1
When: Daily 12pm – 3pm & 7pm – 10pm
Pit Stop 17
Away from the main square towards Porta Fiorentina, this cute little cafe and deli set within a beautiful stone building serves up a great selection of wines and craft beers as well as plates of delectable locally sourced meats and cheeses.
Where: Via I° Maggio, 25
When: Sat & Sun 9am – 9pm
When is the Best Time to Visit Monteriggioni?
Like much of Italy, the best time to visit Monteriggioni is between May and September, when temperatures soar and you are almost guaranteed pleasent weather, although it can become sweltering during the peak months of July and August.
I would recommend avoiding weekends and summer holidays if you can, as this is when the village is at its busiest. The shoulder months of May and September offer the dual benefits of good weather and empty streets.
Each July, the village hosts Monteriggioni di Torri si Corona, or Monteriggioni is Crowned by Towers, which takes its title from Dante’s Divine Comedy.
This Medieval fair and feast sees visitors flock to the town across two consecutive weekends in order to experience the enchanting atmosphere as craftsmen, storytellers and costumed actors take to the streets to recreate the Middle Ages.
Throughout the festival there are theatre performances, live music, acrobats and dancers as well as the opportunity to savor historic flavors with local restaurants serving food and wine of the time.
How Long Should you Spend in Monteriggioni?
Monteriggioni is so small that it can be seen in its entirety in under an hour, even if you take your time to scale the ramparts and visit the small armoury museum.
I recommend sticking around for at least an afternoon, enjoying a leisurely lunch at one of the great restaurants on Piazza Roma and staying until early evening, so you can sip a local wine or two as the glow of dusk descends on the tiny village and surrounding countryside.
If you decide to stay, there is accommodation within the fortress walls, and Monteriggioni makes a for a peaceful alternative to Siena and San Gimignano as a base for exploring this corner of Tuscany.
Day Trips from Monteriggioni
Luckily, Tuscany still has hidden corners and small towns that remain off the beaten track for the countless tourists that head here each day. From walled towns to sculpture parks and monasteries frozen in time, there is plenty to see within a short drive from Monteriggioni.
Abbadia a Isola
Just 3km from Monteriggioni, you will find Abbadia a Isola, founded all the way back in 1001 around which a quiant and pictureque village eventually developed thanks to its convenient location beside the Via Francigena, the path trodden by pilgrims from all over Europe heading to the tomb of St. Peter, in Rome.
Chianti Sculpture Park
Nestled in the Tuscan countryside northeast of Siena, the 17-acre Chianti Sculpture Park is the ideal place for art-lovers to see that there is more to the region than great wine and food.
The exhibition, an attempt by founder Piero Giadrossi to combine contemporary sculpture with the natural world, aims to showcase the work of lesser-known artists to a wider international audience. The park features the work of artists from 25 different countries with pieces fashioned from glass, steel and bronze reinterpretation of the natural space by interacting with the light, trees and landscape.
Barberino Val d’Elsa
Unlike Monteriggioni, this hilltop town wasn’t built by the Sienese to keep a watchful eye on Florence, but the other way round. This is another beautifully intact medieval village and the nearby rustic restaurants are some of the best in the area, so it is a must-visit for foodies.
Colle Val d’Elsa
Colle di Val d’Elsa’s main claim to fame is that is is the birthplace of architect Arnolfo di Cambio, who not only built Florence’s Palazzo Vecchio, but also started construction on the city’s cathedral before his death in the early 14th century.
