On the oppressive, pinched-tight streets of the Napoli’s Spanish Quarter, the tables that line the alleyways gradually fill with plates of blistered and bubbling pizza, its leopard-spotted crust screaming of Neopolitan pride and tradition. Around me, amongst the moped fumes and cigarette smoke, the air is thick with the tang of tomato, wood smoke, and baking dough.
As waiters place plates in front of eager diners, they bring along ice-cold bottles of lager, each one dripping with beads of cold water, fresh from the fridge. In Italy, you would expect wine to be the faithful companion to any meal, perhaps even an Aperol of hugo spritz, but in Naples, it’s always beer.
Even Anthony Bourdain, no stranger to culinary gospel, picked up on the sacred pairing during his episode of ‘No Reservations’ in Naples. “There’s something perfect,” he said between bites of dough and sips of lager, “about pizza and beer. It’s elemental.” He was right. Together, they are the perfect match.
It’s also a combination that needs a little historical context.
In the 1920s, when Benito Mussolini’s fascist government restricted the trade of alcohol products in hospitality venues, the sale of any liquor above 21% was forbidden. These strict anti-alcohol policies, motivated by the country’s widespread issues with alcoholism, led to a significant decrease in the number of premises selling hard liquor, but also meant that beer became the primary alcoholic offering in bars, trattorias, tavernas, and, in Naples, pizzerias.
While following the end of WWII, pizzerias slowly spread across Italy and the consumption of beer grew, this was mostly the previously mentioned, mass-produced lagers. So, where does craft beer fit into all of this?
Even Bourdain himself was never a fan of artisanal ales, preferring something simpler. In 2016, he gave an interview in which he told a story that cemented his disdain for the craft beer movement. Describing his experience of stopping off for a quick beer in a San Francisco bar, he said, “I looked around. The entire place was filled with people sitting there with five small glasses in front of them, filled with different beers, taking notes. This is not what a bar is about.”
“People get all bent about it,” Bourdain said. “But look, I like cold beer. And I like to have a good time. I don’t like to talk about beer, honestly. If you bring me a really good one, a good craft beer, I will enjoy it and say so. But I’m not gonna analyse it.”
In a way, the Italian public felt the same. When the Italian craft beer movement kicked off in the mid-90s and early 00s, the pairing was seen as very traditional and served without thought; no matter the quality of the pizza and its ingredients, it was always combined with whatever mass-produced lager was at hand.
Thankfully, things are changing. While Peroni and (bizarrely) Tennants Super flow as freely here as in any Italian piazza, there’s something more niche, more nuanced emerging. From the labyrinthine streets of the historic centre to the gritty-chic enclaves of the Quartieri Spagnoli, brewers and craft beer bars are challenging expectations and pouring experimental brews that are a far cry from the beers of the past.
Take Birrificio Artigianale Napoletano, tucked away in the shadow of Vesuvius. Inside, brewer Marco Esposito takes his beer and its complex flavours very seriously; “Neapolitans are sceptical until they taste,” he says. “But when they taste, they fall in love.” His amber ale, lightly bitter and citrus-bright, is designed specifically to cut through the richness of mozzarella and complement the char of a proper Margherita.
Working my way around the restaurants and pizzerias of Naples, I found that many of the restaurateurs were embracing the intricacies of craft beer to complement their menus. Pizzeria Da Michele, made famous by Eat, Pray, Love, had been exclusively serving Peroni since the 1930s but has more recently been developing a craft beer menu, including a Da Michele-branded beer in partnership with a local craft brewery, Birra Kbirr. I found the same at Isabella De Cham and the hip gourmet burger hotspot of Wicked Burger, who have outposts in both Vomero and Aversa that have a full range of craft beers brewed for them by a local brewery.
It seems that the city is embracing the craft beer revolution, albeit slowly. There are only a handful of good beer bars for a city of this size, but the ones that Naples does have are a beacon to Italian craft beer lovers.
In Centro Storico, more and more of the tiny hole-in-the-wall bars are serving local brews. OAK and Blind Pig have chalkboard menus that change weekly, featuring saisons with local citrus, hazy IPAs, and malty porters with whispers of espresso, a nod to the city’s caffeinated soul.
The Mosto craft beer brand has managed to spread itself over three locations, all of them constantly packed come evening time, and feels like a shrine to small-batch Italian brewing. And for those willing to explore beyond the city centre, they will find a cluster of great bars in Vomero, such as Joker, another Mosto, and Hoppy endings, each with a well-curated tap list.
This movement isn’t just about flavour; it’s cultural reclamation and adding a local complexity to the beer on offer.. Neapolitan brewers are infusing their beers with regional identity: using local chestnuts, wild herbs from the Campanian hills, and even volcanic spring water. It’s terroir in a pint glass.
Back in the city, as dusk spills over Spaccanapoli and the bells of Santa Chiara toll in the background, I huddle on a side street outside NaBeer, sipping a hazy, hoppy IPA and tearing into a crisp pizza fritta with ricotta, ham, and smoked provola. It’s loud, messy, and perfect.
Because in Naples, everything is passionate; from football to food, and now, to beer. And in this city of sacred dough, the craft brewers and craft beer bars are making their mark.
The Best Craft Beer Bars & Pubs in Naples
Naples may be a city built on tradition, but its craft beer scene is a bold, modern evolution. What began as a handful of bars pouring microbrews has blossomed into a thriving network of pubs, bottle shops, and creative taprooms. Here’s where to find the best of them:
Hoppy Ending
Perched high above the historic heart of Naples, the fashionable Vomero district feels a world apart from the frenetic city pulsing below it. Here, the narrow alleyways are replaced by broad boulevards, Belle Époque villas line the streets, their wrought-iron balconies framed by flowering wisteria, taking the place of towering tenements. It’s a place where the views stretch wide; over rooftops, domes, and distant water of the bay.
While for decades this neighbourhood has been the cooler, cleaner spot for the city’s bourgeoisie to retreat from the chaos below, it also has a youthful, creative spirit, meaning that fashion houses, tailors, and high-end restaurants share streets with indie bookstores and trendy cocktail bars and vegan cafés; the perfect spot for a specialist craft beer bar.
Hoppy Ending doesn’t quite fit into either of these camps; the interior is neither particularly cool and inviting for a younger crowd, nor does it exude the elegance of a traditional pub or bar. When I stepped foot inside on a weekend evening, I was the only customer.
One thing it does do right is beer. The bar showcases six rotating taps of generally local ales and well-stocked fridges, offering a diverse selection of craft beers from Italy and beyond.
While it may not be worth venturing to Vomero just to grab a pint here, I would recommend stopping by if you are in the neighbourhood.
Where: Via Santa Maria Della Libera 30, Vomero
When: Sunday to Thursday 5pm – 1am; Friday & Saturday 5pm – 2am
Mosto
Mosto is a fairly well-known name in Naples’ craft beer scene, spreading itself across three locations across the city. Each venue differentiates itself from the others by offering a unique ambience while generally sticking to the brand’s selling point of serving quality Italian beers and offering a welcoming atmosphere.
Mosto Chiaia was the first branch to open, and quickly became a hub for local beer enthusiasts in this upscale part of the city. An outpost in Vomero was added later, before the newest venue, in the Centro Storico, directly across from the Accademia di Belle Arti, was added to the family.
Although I was staying in Chiaia during my time in Naples, I only managed to stop at Mosto Centro Storico and found it to have a buzzing atmosphere; the tables and chairs that sit at the centre of the boulevard were packed with young drinkers, and it was almost impossible to get inside.
Whichever Mosto you choose, you can be guaranteed a good beer selection, and it is an essential visit for any beer-related trip to Naples.
Where: Mosto Chiaia Vico II Alabardieri 28; Mosto Vomero Via Giovanni Merliani 158; Mosto Centro Storico Via Vincenzo Bellini 31/32
When: Opening times vary depending on the venue
NaBeer birroteca
Sitting on a dark, narrow street at the very southern edge of the Quartieri Spagnoli, NaBeer Birroteca feels like an Intimate, welcoming love letter to Italy’s craft brewing scene. With a knowledgeable owner at the helm who always seems willing to offer his thoughts and recommendations, this hole-in-the-wall bar champions regional producers, with a menu that reads like a who’s who of Campanian microbreweries.
It’s a small and unpretentious spot; a handful of stools, exposed brick, classic rock blaring over the speakers and always a few people gathered outside, seated on discarded KeyKegs, constantly having to move for any vehicles that are trying to squeeze down the street.
Aside from OAK (mentioned below), this was my favourite drinking spot in the city and the only one I visited twice, the second for a quick pint before I boarded the bus to the airport. It’s a warm and welcoming place, and despite only having five beers on tap, you know that they will be a well-curated selection.
Where: Vico Sergente Maggiore 39
When: Tues to Thurs 4.15pm – 12am; Fri & Sat 4.15pm – 1am; Sun 4.30am – 12am
Kitebeer
You’ll find KiteBeer sandwiched between Naples’ port and the Quartieri Spagnoli, occupying almost an entire alleyway with its outdoor seating. This, I’m sure, is to make up for the relatively diminutive indoor space – room enough for the bar and just a few customer – but that doesn’t matter; locals and tourists alike seem to flood here to drink or attend one of the many events that they host.
This is part taproom, part cultural space. When I visited, the tables were all taken up by competitors attending a chess tournament while a DJ played experimental beats and the results of each match were projected onto an enormous screen. It makes for a unique atmosphere and attracts a diverse crowd who aren’t only there for the beer, although their selection is very good.
Where: Vico Medina 15
When: Sun to Thurs 11am – 1.30am; Fri & Sat 11am – 2am
OAK Napoli Wine and Craft Beer
Hidden away at the intersection of some narrow and quiet side streets that sit just a short walk from the chaotic bustle of Piazza del Gesù Nuovo and the packed streets of Naples’ Centro Storico, OAK feels like a peaceful Oasis – an Eden for beer lovers – where you can escape the crowds.
Although that would almost be enough to elevate the bar into the top spot when it comes to my favourite craft beer bars, it’s the tap list and drink selection that make it shine. An enormous blackboard adorns one wall, listing dozens upon dozens of cans and bottles, while the tap list is possibly the best you’ll find in the city.
It’s a stylish place to while away a few hours, too. The interior is dingy, yet cosy, as well as being effortlessly cool; stickers from local breweries cover the surfaces of doors while the walls are decorated with murals and neon signs. Even outside, on the compact side streets, there is enough seating for people to spill onto the sidewalk amongst the graffiti-laden alleyways of the Centro Storico, becoming a lively gathering spot, especially during evenings and weekends, and fully capturing the essence of Naples’ vibrant street culture.
Where: Vico Quercia 10
When: Sun to Thurs 4pm – 1am; Fri 4pm – 2am; Sat 2pm – 2am
Il Birraiuolo
A bottle shop first and bar second, Il Birraiuolo is tucked away on a side street of the Centro Storico, offering shelves lined with the best of Italy’s craft beer scene, from sour ales brewed in the Dolomites to dark lagers from Naples’ own Kbirr.
It’s a relatively laid-back place where beer lovers sip straight from the bottle or ask for a cold pour into a tulip glass. There’s seating inside, but you will find a good number of people spilling out onto the pavement outside, cigarettes hanging from their mouths and a beer glass in hand.
Where: Via Vincenzo Bellini 48, Centro Storico
When: Tues to Thurs 6.30pm – 11.30pm; Fri & Sat 6.30pm – 1.30am; Sun 6.30pm – 11.30pm
Carafa Della Spina
This may not be the trendiest of beer spots in Naples, however, it was founded by beer lovers long before the craft scene really took hold. Carafa della Spina is one of the city’s original beer-centric bars, with a strong leaning toward British and Belgian traditions. It serves hand-pulled ales and strong dubbels in a pub atmosphere that feels both classic and contemporary.
Where: Piazzetta San Giuseppe dei Ruffi 15
When: Mon to Thurs 5.30pm – 12.30pm; Fri & Sat 2pm – 1.30pm; Sun 12pm – 2am
Blind Pig
Just around the corner from OAK, you’ll find the Blind Pig. This diminutive watering hole is small and dimly lit, illuminated just by a few downlights, glowing vintage signs, and candlelit tables, giving it the feel of a Prohibition-era speakeasy or a hip bar that is more Brooklyn than Bay of Naples.
I visited late in the day, huddling on the street outside beneath an umbrella, supping a few pints while avoiding an afternoon downpour. However, I can imagine it’s an atmospheric spot once the sun has set.
Don’t expect an extensive tap list – there were just four (great) Italian brews on draught while I was there – but the can and bottle list a long one, carefully curated and inked onto a whiteboard that adorns the bar’s wall. It’s not just a spot for beer-lovers, though; Blind Pig effortlessly blends mixology with microbrews, serving up hazy IPAs and barrel-aged stouts alongside experimental cocktails.
Where: vico 2° della, Vico Quercia 8
When: Monday to Thursday 4.30pm – 12am; Friday 4.30pm – 1am; Saturday 12.30pm – 1am; 5pm – 12am
Jokr Craft Beer Pub
Hidden away in a basement of the hip district that towers high over the city just a short walk from the hilltop Castel Sant’Elmo, this pub may be called Jokr, but it takes it’s beer pretty seriously.
The bar is cosy with relatively old-school decor: wooden tables, sports on the TV, and a knowledgeable bar team who know their saisons from their sours. However, they also have modern brews from some of Italy’s best craft breweries. There are only four beers on the rotating tap list, but you can expect a fridge filled with plenty of exciting cans and bottles.
Where: Via Francesco de Mura 35, Vomero
When: Mon 6pm – 1am; Weds & Thurs 6pm – 1am; Fri 6pm – 1.30am; Sat 6pm – 2am; Sun 6pm – 1am
Naples Craft Beer Map
Whether you are planning a Naples pub crawl or just want to locate one of the bars mentioned above, this map includes all the best taprooms and craft beer bars that were covered in this guide.
Using this map: This map shows both the city’s best craft beer bars (orange icons). The list can be seen and filtered by toggling the icon on the top left-hand side of the map, and each location can be explored further by clicking it. Expand the map by clicking the icon on the top right-hand side
Where to Stay in Naples
Naples, with its chaotic charm and deep historical roots, offers a hospitality scene as layered as the city itself. Whether you’re seeking elegant frescoed ceilings in a Renaissance palazzo or rooftop cocktails at a boutique hotel with a view of Mount Vesuvius, these three standout hotels bring the best of Neapolitan style, comfort, and soul.
Grand Hotel Vesuvio
Where: Seafront, Santa Lucia district
Best for: Classic luxury with a view of Mount Vesuvius
A Naples icon since 1882, Grand Hotel Vesuvio is renowned for its old-world elegance and impeccable service. Its rooftop restaurant, Caruso, offers spectacular views of the Bay of Naples, Capri, and Vesuvius. Expect marble bathrooms, plush interiors, and access to a private spa and indoor pool.
MGallery Palazzo Caracciolo Napoli
Where: Centro Storico
Best for: History buffs who love boutique charm
For a stay steeped in Neapolitan nobility, check into this restored 16th-century palace, once home to the aristocratic Caracciolo family. Located within the city’s historic centre, this MGallery property blends classical architecture with plush modern comforts. Think cloistered courtyards, vaulted stone ceilings, and quiet rooms that provide a welcome retreat after a day navigating Naples’ lively streets.
Relais Della Porta
Where: Via Toledo
Best for: Boutique charm and walkability
Hidden behind an unassuming entrance on Via Toledo, this boutique gem is housed within a 16th-century noble residence. Original frescoes and period features speak to its storied past, while thoughtful modern touches sucha as rainfall showers and espresso machines ensure contemporary comfort. It’s a quiet, refined refuge just steps from the city’s buzzing shopping streets and the Spanish Quarter.
