Come, Whoever you may be. Even if you may be an infidel, a pagan, or a fire worshipper, come. Ours is not a brotherhood of despair. Even if you have broken your vows of repentance a hundred times. Come.
In a country founded on staunch secularism, despite Turkey having an approximately 90% Muslim population, the city of Konya is a stark religious outlier. It is said that Konya is the nation’s most devout metropolis and, walking the streets and bazaars of the inner city on a mid-afternoon jaunt during the holy month of Ramadan, I have no reason to suspect otherwise.
Here, hijabs and burkas are common and the bearded men that linger beside the minarets of Konya’s mosques shun the casual, western attire adopted by men throughout Turkey, replaced by thobes and serwals.
The call to prayer echoes out regularly from the city’s many historic Seljuk buildings and bounces through the medieval-era marketplace where stalls dish out steaming glass cups of Turkish tea and sizzling kebabs, where musty carpet shops stand alongside stalls piled high with abundant, brightly coloured fruit and vegetables.
Afterall, Konya lays at the heart of Turkey’s breadbasket, rising from the fertile Konya plains that has allowed it to become a major agricultural and industrial hub over the last few decades, spreading outwards into the surrounding steppe from its old religious centre to become a sprawling metropolis of high rises and factories that is now home to over 2 million people.
It’s place as the country’s economic powerhouse provides quite a juxtaposition next to the ancient mosques, labyrinthine bazaar district, and picturesque gardens. Amongst the feverous industry and rampant capitalism, the minarets of mosques shimmer and people pray. Students of Islam discuss religion, politics and surprisingly, a man whose teachings where once seen as a roadblock to the economic and political advancement of the Turkish people, Calaleddin Rumi.
Rumi, born in Afghanistan in 1207, was a was a mystic, poet, and philosopher. He first came to Konya via Mecca in 1228 when his family fled the Mongol invasion of Balkh in Afghanistan. At the time, the city was the capital of the vast Seljuk Sultanate of Rum which encompassed huge swathes of Anatolia, spreading from Antalya in the south to Sinop on the Black Sea Coast. Eastward, it stretched all the way to Ahlat.
Although the Sultanate of Rum was a fairly short-lived power – it seceded from the Great Seljuk Empire in 1077 and lasted until the late 13th century when it succumbed to the Mongol invasion and gradually lost control – it left its mark on the city of Konya. The Seljuk Sultans poured money into their central city, constructing some of their finest architectural gems in styles that encompassed Turkish, Byzantine and Persian methods.
It is easy to see then, why Rumi’s father, Bahaeddin Veled, a famed preacher known as the ‘Sultan of Scholars’, chose the centre of the Seljuk world as his refuge. Aiming to follow in his father’s footsteps, Rumi threw himself into the studies of Islamic literature and theology, training in both Damascus and Aleppo before returning to Konya in 1240.
It is Rumi to which a well-known religious spinning ritual – or sema – is attributed, originating in the bazaars of Konya where the Mevlana became so overcome by the rhythmic pounding and chanting of goldbeaters that he raised his hand to the air and began to spin, whirling continuously until he became one with God.
It is an act that Rumi would repeat and perform for his disciples; known as ‘the gentle ones’, they practiced principles of love, tolerance and giving up one’s existence and ego to unite with God. Rumi would fast, mediate and eventually dance by whirling himself in circles in order to reach enlightenment, reciting his verses and poems to the watching audience as he reached a rapturous state.
So loved was Rumi that at the time of his death, the people of Konya mourned for 40 days. His son, Sultan Veled created a brotherhood of his followers known popularly as the Whirling Dervishes (their true name is the Mevlevi) and in the years following, over 100 Dervish lodges were founded throughout the Ottoman Empire.
In 1925, Turkey’s first president, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, banned all Sufi orders and hermitages as part of his secularization policies, forcing them to continue the practice underground, out of sight of the authorities. The Mevlevi managed to survive among small villages throughout the Middle East until, in 1956, the Turkish government revived the whirling dervish ceremony as a cultural asset. The Mevlevi were permitted to perform for tourists as well as being allowed to perform on the anniversary of the death of Rumi, which eventually led to an annual nine-day festival in Konya. sema ceremonies have since been awarded ‘Intangible Cultural Heritage’ status by UNESCO.
The dance of the Whirling Dervishes now takes place here each Saturday night in one of the world’s largest Dervish halls, but it was something that I was lucky enough to first experience in Istanbul’s Sirkeci Railway Station.
I sat in awe as the dervishes began their dance. Long, flowing robes billowed around them rising and then freezing in place like glowing white spinning tops while the room reverberated with the haunting strains of flutes and ouds. As they spun, faster and faster, their eyes remained fixed on a distant point, as if seeking some profound insight from the universe.
To me, the dance was a profound expression of the human spirit, a testament to the power of devotion and the search for truth. As the dance slowly ends and the robes settle around dancer’s feet like a calm mist, you can see how the whirling vortex of the sema is intended to make the participants one with whatever higher power they seek.
Following his death, Rumi was laid to rest in the grounds of the Sultan’s palace and an elaborate mausoleum was constructed over his grave, complete with an enormous dome covered in magnificent Anatolian Seljuk turquoise tiles. The first ever Mevlevi lodge was set up to surround the mausoleum and is now home to the Mevlana museum, one of Turkey’s most visited attractions and the possible reason for Konya’s enduring religiosity. For Muslims, this is an important holy site with around 2 million people making a pilgrimage each year.
That isn’t to say that the mausoleum, mosque, and museum are closed off to non-Muslims. As Rumi preached love and tolerance of all people, everyone is welcome here, provided they cover their shows and shroud their heads before entering the silver ottoman doors emblazoned with the phrase “Those who enter here incomplete will come out perfect”
My path to Rumi’s perceived perfection begins as soon as I pass through the Devisan Kapisi (Gate of Dervishes), lowering myself to duck under the chain that hangs across it as a reminder that we are all equal and must lose all sense of ego. Inside the inner courtyard, people surround the ablutions fountain performing the ritual washing known as wudhu.
Inside the mosque itself, you soon realise that this is no ordinary museum. Rather than being a building stuffed with stale displays, the building itself is the exhibition. It is a noticeably holy and revered place; bright frescoes of Islamic text cover the walls and the colourful windows filter light of all shades against every surface. While some visitors just meander through the main hall and gawp at the stunning tile work, others take their time and stand still, hands and fingers clasped tightly as they pray.
Most of the activity surrounds Rumi’s casket that sits directly below the fluted dome draped in velvet shrouds and decorated with shining gold embroidery. There are around 65 other sarcophagi here too, six belonging to Bahaeddin Veled’s followers that came with him from Afghanistan and Rumi’s own sits next to that of his son and other prominent dervishes. However, it is only Valed’s and Rumi’s – by far the largest – that are topped with huge turbans to represent spiritual authority.
Away from the sepulchral chamber, beneath the shimmer of crystal chandeliers are glass cases filled with all manner of sacred treasures; there is Mevlana’s prayer rug, a 9th century Christian manuscript, an Iranian carpet bearing a picture of the Kaaba said to be the most valuable in the world, and a copy of the Koran so small that its author went blind while writing it. There is also a casket that it is claimed contains strands of Mohammed’s beard. Stand beside it long enough and you will witness a steady stream of people jostling to hunch down and sniff the gaps in the glass display case, as the common belief is that smelling the contents allows you to smell the ‘scent of heaven’. Despite my best olfactory efforts, I was only able to glean a whiff of glass and dust.
There is a hushed reverence in the air throughout my entire visit and one that is entirely fitting for the holy, and divine setting. In a way it is not a far cry from the sense of awe that I felt all those years ago when first witnessing the dance of the Whirling dervishes as they whipped themselves into a state of nirvana in an Istanbul train station; I may not have left complete or perfect, but seeing something so exquisite certainly helps you to leave your ego at the door.
I visited Konya as a guest of Jet2holidays as part of their Discover More Treasures of Turkey Tour. For more information on this tour, visit their website.
Things to do in Konya Beyond the Mevlâna Museum
Alaaddin Mosque
Aside from the Mevlana Museum, the Alaaddin Mosque is one of Konya’s most important religious building and a fine example of Seljuk & Arabic architecture. Construction took place between 1219 and 1231 under the watch of Alaeddin Keykubad I and over the centuries it has had many restorations and additions, including stonework reused from Roman and Byzantine buildings.
The mosque sits atop Alaaddin tepesi, a sprawling inner city flower garden and park that offers a pleasant view over Konya and a relaxing spot to grab a drink in a café or tea shop.
Sahib-i Ata Mosque
This mosque complex is known for its grand entry points and fine examples of blue Seljuk tilework that adorn the mihrab. Although the mosque was constructed in the 1280s during the rule of Alaaddin Keykavus, it was destroyed in1 871 before being rebuilt in the original 13th-century style. The Mosque is open to the public from 9am to 12pm, and then 1pm to 5pm every day except Monday. Entry is free.
The Museum of Wooden Artefacts and Stone Carving
What was once known as the Seminary of the Slender Minaret (Ince Minare Medresesi) now hosts the museum of Wooden Artifacts and Stone Carving where you will find Seljuk carvings of birds, animals, and people.
This 13th-century madrasa is worth visiting for the ornate Seljuk stonework which stretches up the entire façade and the 600-year-old octagonal minaret that gave the building its name.
eTHNOGRAPHIC mUSEUM
This slightly neglected local museum contains ethnographic artifacts and examples of traditional Turkish handicrafts produced in and around Konya such as point lace, embroidered rugs, fabric and clothes. While it is not one of the city’s most exhilarating exhibitions, entry is only ₺5.
Mevlâna Festival
The Mevlâna Festival takes place in Konya each year between December for ten days leading up to the 17th of December, Rumi’s so-called “wedding night” night with Allah when, in 1273, he departed from this physical world.
More than a million people make there way to the festival annually so it may be difficult to get tickets for the nightly Rumi ceremony, however, sema ceremonies take place throughout the city at different venues. On the final night of the festival, the Seb-i Arus or wedding night ritual is attended by dignitaries.
Tickets and accommodation should be booked well in advance.
Where to Eat & Drink in Konya
Although Konya differentiates itself from the rest of Turkey in terms of its piousness, the local cuisine here is very similar to elsewhere in the country with a few exceptions. The native delicacies are Etli ekmek – pide-like dish topped with ground beef. finely chopped onions, tomatoes, and peppers – firin kebap, made from succulent slow-roasted mutton.
Mithat Tirit
Where: Aziziye Mah.Aziziye Cd, Yusufağa Sk. No:21/A
When: Daily 11am – 6pm
Somatçı
Where: Aziziye, Mengüc Cd. No:41
When: Daily 9.30am – 9.30pm
Osmanlı Çarşısı
Where: Zafer, İnce Minare Sk. No:35
When: Daily 10am – 2am
Where to Stay in Konya
Konya being a major pilgrimage site as well as one of Turkey’s most important industrial and agricultural hubs, there are an abundance of good-quality hotels in the city centre, although most do cater to business & convention-going clients rather than tourists.
That being said, you should have no trouble finding accommodation year-round, except for the first two weeks in December when visitors flock to Konya for the Şeb-i Aruz commemoration of Mevlâna Jelaleddin Rumî. At this time, most of the city’s hotels – particularly those close to the Mevlâna Cultural Centre – will be fully-booked.
Business Hotel
Dedeman Konya Hotel
The banners and posters advertising farming equipment that adorn the lifts and corridors of the Dedeman leave you in no doubt that this hotel’s clientele skews more towards corporate guests than regular tourists, but this 16-storey tower attached to one of Konya’s biggest shopping malls has all the comforts and conveniences that you could hope for; fast WIFI, rooftop bar, an outdoor pool, and gym. The walk from here to Mevlana Museum is a long one, but it’s close enough that a taxi ride won’t break the bank.
Central Location
Hich Hotel
If you would prefer to be closer to Konya’s cultural heart, Hich Hotel is just a minute walk from Mevlana Museum. Situated in a 200-year-old restored building, this quirky and eclectic hotel offers stylish rooms and a suntrap garden terrace with views of the city’s main sights.
Safe Choice
Hilton Garden Inn
The cookie-cutter hotels of large brands may not always be the most interesting choice in a given city but Hilton’s business offering is safe choice and can always guarantee comfortable rooms and a high standard of service. The Garden Inn in Konya is just a short stroll from the action and has a good onsite restaurant as well as a stylish cocktail bar.
How to Get to Konya
Konya has a dedicated airport – located just over 10km northeast of the city centre – that is served by both Turkish Airlines and Pegasus with multiple flights a day from Istanbul. Turkish Airlines do offer a shuttle bus service between the airport and the city centre that takes 30 minutes and runs according to the flight schedule. Alternatively a taxi into Konya will cost around 150₺ (around £6).
There are also regular buses to Konya from Ankara (3.5 hours), Antalya (5 hours), Istanbul (12 hours), and Nevşehir/Cappadocia (3 hours). The main bus station is found 7km north of the city centre and is accessible by tram.
If arriving from Ankara, the high speed train takes just 2 hours and alights at Alay Caddesi, just 3km from the centre of town. There are half-hourly buses from the train station to the Mevlana Museum.
Getting Around
Thanks to the large number of buses, mini buses, and trams that weave around the city centre from Mevlana Caddesi, getting around Konya is a breeze. The city’s trams run 24 hours a day but tickets – a Konya Elkart travel card – need to be bought in advance from local shops or kiosks.
Tips for Visiting Konya
Konya is notoriously one of Turkey’s most religiously conservative cities. Although men are fine to wear shorts and t shirts, it is recommended that you cover yourself to fit the local customs and not offend when visiting mosques and religious sites. It is for this reason that women should also keep a headscarf with them to wear when stepping inside places of interest.
I visited during Ramadan and it is worth nothing that while some cafés and international restaurant chains were open during the day, the majority didn’t open their doors until sunset. It is also a good idea to avoid eating and drinking in public during the day as a courtesy to people that are fasting.
