In the centre of Lago Petén Itzá lays Flores, an island town of red corrugated rooftops and colourful, painted buildings. The island, connected to the mainland town of Santa Elena by a causeway, was the last major Mayan outpost to resist the incoming onslaught of the Spanish conquistadors until finally falling in 1697, having its huge Pre-Colombian pyramids destroyed in the aftermath. Today Flores is visited by travellers from all over the world due to its proximity to Tikal, the most famous Maya ruin in Guatemala. It is one of the safest spots in all of Petén and an attraction in itself – the colourful, red-roofed colonial buildings cobbled streets are worth visiting.
Where to Stay in Flores
HOSTEL
Los Amigos
Most travellers head straight to Los Amigos as soon as they make it to the island. As the main backpacker hub, it has pretty much all the amenities you could want; internet access, book exchange and on-site bar/restaurant. The best thing about this place? It has an open courtyard filled with trees, fountains and hammocks giving you the feeling that you’re hanging out in the jungle. One word of advice though – They have been known to over-inflate the prices of their tours and transport at the in house travel office so it may be worth shopping around in town before booking anything here.
HOSTEL
Ciao Cacao Hostel & Cafe
Ciao Cacao Hostel & Cafe offers a spacious tropical garden where guests can relax in hammocks and enjoy vegan treats from the cafe, including coffee, smoothies, and homemade ice cream. The hostel contains have a cosy indoor common area covered with eclectic art & decorations, a unique – if basic – loft dorm, and one private room.
HOTEL
Hotel Mirador del Lago
I arrived in Flores a little too late to get a space at Los Amigos – the only room available was a 300Q per night private. Refusing to pay this, I lugged my backpack back to the main drag and wandered into Hotel Mirador del Lago to meet the slightly odd owner of this place who shuffled through the narrow corridors and ushered me into a dingy, basic, twin room. However, the water is hot and a private room only cost 140Q a night, 70Q each. The hotel’s bar has a great view out over the lake and you can use their kayaks for free. If you don’t mind sparse rooms with the occasional ant infestation, this place is great for the price.
Things to do in Flores
The majority of travellers use Flores as a base for exploring the ruins of Tikal or adventurous treks around Peten. However, Flores isn’t just a place to rest your head after a day of sampling Mayan architecture – It has it’s charms and is worth digging in to a little deeper.
Walk the Island
Due to the compact nature of Flores, it only takes around 15-20 minutes to walk the perimeter of the island. It’s worth a wander to see the colourful houses and hang out with locals in Parque Central. In the early evening, the island’s residents usually go for a dip in the lake so why not join them to wash away the dirt and sweat after a day of trekking around Tikal.
Kayak
The majority of hostels and hotels will let you take a kayak for free so make the most of this and go for a paddle around Lago Petén Itzá.
Jorge’s Rope Swing
Jorge runs a small bar and restaurant on the North shore of the lake, a short boat ride or kayak away from Flores. The main reason to come here: The awesome rope swing that Jorge has set up. Jorge runs a boat service from Flores at Q30 each both ways for two people, five or more Q20 each. There is a charge of 10Q to use the rope swing.
Tikal
The main reason for most backpackers making their way to Flores, Tikal is one of the most impressive sets of Mayan ruins in all of Central America. Tikal is thought to have existed since the 4th century BC and reached its peak as the capital of one of the most powerful Mayan kingdoms by 200 AD. Eventually, the Mayan collapse took its toll on the city. It was conquered by Teotihuacan in the 7th century and gradually declined as its population left, forced out by the Mayan’s infighting and the sites environmental decline. The city wasn’t rediscovered by the Guatemalan government until 1848 when a team was sent to begin archaeological digs and restore the ancient structures.
The main reason for most backpackers making their way to Flores, Tikal is one of the most impressive sets of Mayan ruins in all of Central America. Tikal is thought to have existed since the 4th century BC and reached its peak as the capital of one of the most powerful Mayan kingdoms by 200 AD. Eventually, the Mayan collapse took its toll on the city. It was conquered by Teotihuacan in the 7th century and gradually declined as its population left, forced out by the Mayan’s infighting and the sites environmental decline. The city wasn’t rediscovered by the Guatemalan government until 1848 when a team was sent to begin archaeological digs and restore the ancient structures.
Nowadays only 10% of the 57,600-hectare site has been uncovered. Hidden beneath those jungle canopies are countless other buildings waiting to be discovered. It adds to the sense of adventure to know that there could be hidden ruins at every turn. However, what has been discovered is impressive enough – The site is scattered with huge temples (the 5 most impressive are the imaginatively named Temples I – V), houses, altars and plazas.
A huge number of agencies in Flores will offer a tour to Tikal, usually with a guide (which is definitely recommended). It’s best to shop around as there are huge discrepancies in the prices offered by these companies. Be aware that the official entrance price is 150Q for a day ticket with an additional 100Q if you want to arrive for sunrise, before opening hours – don’t let agencies overcharge you for entry. Generally expect to pay 100Q per person for transport and a guide.
El Mirador
El Miridor is one of the oldest Maya cities and has the biggest pyramid in the world. Before embarking on this trip be aware that it is no walk in the park; it is a 5 or 6-day hike with some days consisting of an 8 hour/30km trek through dense jungle. Los Amigos offers trips at $ 250 USD per person for groups of two people and more. The price to go solo is $ 500 USD. This includes 3 meals a day, camping gear and mules to carry luggage and equipment
Museo Santa Bárbara
Located on an islet to the west of Flores, this tiny museum hosts a small selection of Maya artifacts from nearby archaeological sites, plus some old broadcasting equipment from Radio Petén (88.5 FM), which still broadcasts from an adjacent building. To visit, you will have to contact the museum ahead of time to arrange to be picked up at the dock behind Hotel Santana (10Q per person).
Where to Eat & Drink in Flores
With the island being the size that it is, it’s pretty easy to stumble across a cheap cafe or restaurant. Both Los Amigos and Hotel Mirador del Lago have eateries on-site but if you want to go further afield, here are some places I can recommend.
Sky Bar
A colourful little restaurant decorated with antiques and trinkets from all over the world. Owned by Argentine chef Silvana, it serves great vegetarian and vegan options as well as cuisine from all over the world. Probably the best place I ate in Flores.
San Telmo Restaurant
While most bars are content on serving bland and gassy 333 Lager, the guys at Pasteur are doing something a little different – brewing award-winning craft beers. Head down the alleyway and up the steps into this small but sleek and modern bar where the owners brew using local ingredients such as jasmine and lemongrass to create some unique and delicious brews. I couldn’t keep away and stopped by a couple of times to make sure that I had sampled every beer at least once before leaving the city.
Cool Beans
Great cafe with an outdoor space that serves large, cheap breakfasts, good coffee and smoothies. I didn’t eat lunch or dinner here but I heard great things. The hammocks out back afford great views of the lake so it would be a shame not to hang out in one while sampling the cafes craft beers.
Ciao Cacao Hostel & Cafe
If you’re looking for a vegan treat while on the island, Ciao Cacoa offers homemade vegan icecream and smoothies that you can stuff your face with while relaxing on a hammock in their tropical garden.
Street Food
For a cheaper option, there are street food sellers on the island. Each day at around 4 pm stalls will be set up on the west side of Flores selling various dishes and drinks at a good price. If you wander down Calle 15 de Septiembre from mid-afternoon you may also stumble across women selling tortillas at around 5Q ($0.70/£0.55).
There is a fairly well-stocked supermarket “Fotomart” at Calle 30 although I found the prices to be a little expensive. If you’re willing to walk a little further there is another supermarket across the causeway on the ground floor of the Mundo Maya International mall.
Getting There
From Belize
The tourist buses leave from the water taxi terminal in Belize City at both 9.30am and 2.30pm, stopping only at the Belize – Guatemala border and then once again in Santa Elena. from Santa Elena you will be transferred to a minibus for the drive over the causeway. It takes around 5 hours at a cost of ~$15.
Our bus driver insisted that the border officers on the Guatemala side of the crossing would ask you for a small (unofficial) fee and that if you refused, your passport would be detained. In reality, I was asked for this payment but pretended to not understand – the guard eventually gave up and handed me back my documents. Result.
From Within Guatemala
As with most destinations in Guatemala, it is relatively easy to reach Flores. Most hostels and hotels on the backpacker trail will offer the option of booking a seat in a minibus at a price that is often the same as taking the local option, sometimes cheaper. I found that hostels in Lanquin, Antigua and Lake Atitlan all offered fairly reasonably priced transport. Minibuses from Semuc Champey/Lanquin take around 8 hours at a cost of anywhere between 80 and 125Q.
Buses
If you are heading to Flores by public bus from either Lake Atitlan or Antigua, you will need to hop in a collectivo or chicken bus to the terminal in Guatemala City. Make sure that you buy your tickets from the official office in the station and not from touts – they will often sell you the worst seats at inflated prices.
You will have the option of first-class or second class busses. It’s recommended that you take the first class if you can afford the slightly higher price as the bus won’t stop along the way to pick up people waiting by the side of the road and should arrive a couple of hours faster.
Linea Dorada runs a first-class service from Guatemala City at 10 pm every night, arriving in Santa Elena for 6 am ($30). Cheaper options leave at 6.30 am, 11 am and 8 pm ($24).
Tips & Advice
ATMs
The two ATMs in Flores – next to Hotel Petén and at the supermarket – allow cash withdraws from Visa cards. There is also an ATM in Green Monkey Hostel although I am not sure what cards this accepts. If you have a Mastercard or Maestro card you may have to cross the causeway to use the ATM in the supermarket on the ground floor of the Mundo Maya International mall. There are also a few banks in the shopping centre.
Scams
Be aware that when travelling in from Belize you will be transferred to a minibus to cross the causeway on to the island. The minibus company will then drop you off outside their ticket office and try to sell you tours. Do not buy tours from them. They severely mark up prices and a couple of people I met ended up paying double the price I paid for a trip to Tikal.
Someone known locally as Scarface due to the prominent scar across, you guessed it, his face has been known to sell fake or overpriced tickets to unsuspecting tourists. If a huge scar across a face doesn’t signify a villain, I don’t know what does. He often hops aboard incoming tour buses to try and peddle his tours. Avoid at all costs.
Always shop around different agencies for tours or book online to avoid scams.
8 Responses
Wow so crazy to see you write about ‘Scarface’! My boyfriend had called the man the same thing yesterday. We came into Santa Elena on a local bus and it was storming and suddenly we were told by the driver it was time to get off and two men (including Scarface) grabbed our bags off the bus and put it into their taxi but we thought it was just a transfer due to the storm, we had no choice. He tried to sell us tours and got annoyed when we refused and then we realised we were being tricked, he stopped the car and demanded 100Q, when the trip normally costs about 10Q in a tuk tuk. We tried to argue out of it but he was very rude and aggressive and especially didn’t enjoy that I (a woman) argued back. Sneaky bastard!! We were quite upset about the experience. To other travellers arriving at Flores, just get off the bus yourself and don’t accept anything until you get your bearings. Then get a cheap tuk tuk over the bridge. Screw you ugly scar face mean man!!
Oh no! That’s terrible! We were lucky in that the bus we caught from Belize provided its own minibus to get over the bridge and onto the island so we only had to deal with Scarface when he tried to sell us tours to Tikal. Unfortunately, some people bought tickets from him at double the price. I hope it hasn’t soured your experience of Guatemala!
Thanks, I’ll be sure to avoid scar-face altogether 😉
This was an amazing travel guide and it really helped me when I was planning my trip to Guatemala. I was in Flores in the fall and absolutely loved the town. It was such a joy to explore and photograph! Thanks for sharing this.
I’m glad it helped! It’s a great little place to wander around isn’t it? The fact that it’s so tiny makes it even better
What a fantastic well detailed guide. I have always wanted to go to Guatemala, but I am too scared to backpack. Your guide makes me feel a little better about going.
You really should go! There is such a great infrastructure for backpackers there that you wouldn’t have any trouble. Keep an eye out as i’ll be writing more about Guatemala soon but if you decide to go at some point and need tips, feel free to email me!
Great post here:) have a good sunday!
Xx finja | http://www.effcaa.com