Imagine a tiered, 300m long limestone ribbon winding along the bottom of a lush, mountainous valley deep in the Guatemalan Jungle. Cool water flows over the suspended staircase of 18 sublime, naturally-formed turquoise pools carved by the flow of the Cahabon river.
What you’re imagining is Semuc Champey, one of the most beautiful natural wonders in Guatemala, if not the whole of Central America. It’s a slice of paradise that’s hard to reach, but one that most backpackers in Guatemala will strive to experience. Just a decade ago very few visitors made it to this part of Guatemala, but now the secret is most certainly out, and the region is a mainstay on the gringo trail for people heading to or from Tikal.
Semuc Champey is a relatively remote place to reach, with most backpackers choosing to spend a day or two in the hilltop town of San Agustín Lanquín, 11km away, and visit Semuc on a day trip. While almost every visitor to the area makes the journey solely to plunge into the emerald rock pools, Lanquin is often overlooked. There may not be much to see in the town in terms of sights and attractions, but the misty, highland village is enclosed by hills covered in verdant greenery and lush jungle. A friendly, mostly indigenous community calls this jungle outpost home, often driving livestock through the town’s unpaved streets on their way to the surrounding fields.
For me, Semuc Champey & Lanquin are must-visits if you’re backpacking in Guatemala.
How to Get to Lanquin & Semuc Champey
I’ll start with a slight warning. The journey to Lanquin is not for the faint-hearted. Located 3 hours from Coban, the nearest large city, and 8 – 10 hours from Antigua or Flores by uncomfortable shuttle a long winding, unpaved roads for the majority of the trip, a trip to Semuc Champey means giving up almost two entire days to travel. And when I say uncomfortable, I mean uncomfortable. I spent the entire trip perched on a small, plastic stool propped between the fixed seating of a minibus, sliding forwards and backwards down the aisle with each sharp corner or sudden push on the brakes.
Although a local bus to Lanquin can be caught from Mercado la Terminal in Coban (3 hours, 25Q), from any of the other backpacker hubs in Guatemala, it’s recommended you take a shuttle bus (booked through your hostel) due to the length of the drive. Prices vary, but from both Flores and Antigua, expect to pay anywhere between 120 and 150 Q. The shuttle leaves Antigua twice a day; once at 8 am and again at 2 pm. I would recommend getting the early minibus so that you arrive in Lanquin early evening, ready to visit the waterfalls the next morning.
The shuttle will drop you off at your hostel in either Lanquin or Semuc Champey.
Where to Stay in Lanquin & Semuc Champey
You have two options of where to stay when visiting the area; besides Semuc Champey National Park itself, or 3 km away in the town of Lanquin. There are pros and cons to both; By staying in Lanquin, you have access to a few cheap food spots, tiendas, and markets (as well as an ATM) but you will have to book a day trip to the pools through your hostel or make your own way there. By staying beside the national park itself, you are within walking distance of one of the world’s most beautiful swimming spots and get to stay in tranquil jungle surroundings. However, you will have to rely on your accommodation to provide all of your food and drink requirements.
Zephyr Lodge
A mountaintop village deep in the Guatemalan jungle probably isn’t where you would expect to find one of the country’s most rambunctious party hostels, but that is what you’ll find with Zephyr. The crowd here tends to be fairly young, packing out the bar each evening for drinking games and a few rounds of pool. However, during the day when most guests have departed to visit Semuc Champey, the infinity pool and hilltop views make it the perfect place for some tranquillity and relaxation.
Although I loved Zephyr for its social vibe and location, the staff can be a mixed bag (the owner seemed especially grumpy and unhelpful) and there were a number of complaints about people being overcharged for their bar/food tabs and dorms being a little grimy. Having said that, I had no issues during my stay. The food was great, my room comfortable and the hostel has all the amenities that you could hope for.
Utopia Eco Hostel
If you want to feel a little more isolated, this open-air lodge is located in the middle of the jungle, closer (45-minute walk) to the National Park than Lanquin, with no other hostels in sight. As well as dorms, Utopia offers cabanas and bungalows if you need a little downtime, as well as a beautiful garden and terrace. They have an in-house vegetarian restaurant as well as a ticketing office, meaning that you won’t have to venture into town for anything.
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El Retiro
Although in Lanquin, El Retiro doesn’t perch on a hilltop like most of the town’s other accommodation options but is instead situated in a beautiful riverside setting, allowing you to go for a swim to escape the jungle heat. Like with Zephyr, each dorm is in its own rustic hut. As well as a sun terrace, there is also a bar and restaurant on-site where you can relax and play table tennis or pool.
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Hostal Vista Verde
One of the area’s newest hostels, Vista Verde is eco-conscious accommodation in Lanquin with a huge pool to escape the jungle humidity, a lush garden, and onsite bar/restaurant. The hostel offers a mix of dorm and private rooms.
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Ch’i Bocól Community Hostel
If getting to Lanquin and Semuc Champey wasn’t enough of a struggle for you, Ch’i Bocól Community Hostel requires you to hike a further 30 minutes through the jungle in order to reach it. The walk will be worth it, as Ch’i Bocól is one of the most secluded hostels you will find in Guatemala, situated just a 2-minute walk from a beautiful waterfall and natural swimming pool. If you are on a tight budget, this is one of few hostels in the area that allows outside food to be brought in and cooked in their kitchen, but they also have an onsite chef. Just make sure that you visit an ATM for cash beforehand as, being situated in the jungle, their card reader is not always very reliable.
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Things to do in Semuc Champey
If you decide to visit Semuc Champey with a tour organised by your hostel, all of the below activities, as well as the park entry fee, should be included in the price of the trip (between 170 – 200Q). However, If you decide to venture to Semuc Champey independently, you will need to pay the 50Q entry fee yourself as well as pay separately for the cave tour and river tubing.
Hike El Mirador
If you think the turquoise pools of Semuc Champey are beautiful from ground level, you should see them from above. It is a 45-minute hike up steep steps and although it’s not too strenuous, the heat can be a little unbearable. When you reach the top, the view will be worth the sweat and sore legs. seep down below you in the valley, surrounded by greenery, you will get to see a bird’s eye view of the stunning limestone pools.
I recommend climbing to the viewpoint when you first arrive so that you can cool off in the pools afterwards.
K’an Ba Cave
Imagine my surprise when I turned up for my tour of K’an Ba Cave and just be given a lit candle. No Helmet, headlamp, or safety equipment of any kind. Just me in my swim shorts, holding a candle.
While this isn’t an issue for the beginning of the tour, when the light from the entrance of the cave is still slightly guiding your way and the water level is still below your waste, as you continue deeper into the cave network it is a bit of a problem. Before long we weren’t wading through water, but swimming through the caves, struggling to hold the candle out of the water and keep it lit.
As you can probably tell, this tour isn’t for the faint of heart. In this ill-advised 30-minute long tour there are moments that you will find yourself struggling through neck-deep water, squeezing through tiny crevasses, climbing a 10ft waterfall across wet rock using make-shift metal rungs for grip, and even jumping from rocks into pitch black pools below.
While this all sounds like good fun, be careful while exploring the caves as the nearest hospital to Semuc Champey is 3 hours away in Coban. A few members of our group got minor cuts and bruises, but there have been reports of more severe injuries resulting from the tour. I even heard of someone dying on the trip, although this may just be one of those backpacker urban legends that do the rounds. The fact that people were willing to believe it though, shows how potentially risky the tour is.
Cave tours run every half an hour between 9am-3pm.
Entry to the caves costs 60Q, candle included.
River Tubing
Just a short walk from the pools, you can hop into the Cahabon river with an inner tube and spend a relaxing 30 minutes drifting downstream for around a kilometre or so. During the dry season, the river can be nice and calm, meaning it will take you a little longer to float the entire distance. Local kids will walk alongside you, selling beers for you to drink along the way, eventually catching up with you on your way back for payment. When rainy season arrives, the river can be a little more unpredictable, with the tubing sessions often being cancelled.
Swim in the Pools
The main reason anyone makes the trip all the way to Semuc Champey; to swim in the beautiful pools. Slide down the waterfalls, swim, float, dive off cliff faces and swing from trees. Ideally, if you have a guide, they will show you the safest spots to swim, jump and slide as well as show you how to dive beneath the limestone and emerge in the hollow caverns beneath, although you may want to give that a miss if you’re claustrophobic.
Visiting Semuc Champey Independently vs. With a Tour Group
While most people that travel to Semuc Champey choose to book a tour through their hostel that includes all of the above activities, it is easy enough, and often cheaper, to make your way to the national park independently. The main advantage of travelling there without a group is that you can spend as long as you want swimming and exploring the area, without being herded around or relying on other people.
Having said that, if you want to explore the caves and go river tubing, it is probably better to book a tour and have everything organised for you. It’s also helpful to have a guide with you while exploring the pools, letting you know the safe swimming and diving spots.
To make your own way there, you have two options; The first is to catch a ride in a pick up truck from town. You can flag them down from the crossroads in the ‘town centre’ and they will drive you to Semuc Champey for around 20Q each. Just be aware that there may not always be trucks waiting at the entrance to the National Park when you decide to return to Lanquin, so you may be waiting a while.
The other option is to hike the 10km from Lanquin to Semuc. Luckily the trail is well-signposted and safe. However, it can be a bit of a slog.
Where to Eat and Drink in Lanquin & Semuc Champey
Although there are markets and a few small shops in Lanquin, the majority of people find themselves eating and drinking at their hostels. I found the food in Zephyr to be pretty good, although they tend to price meals a little high due to the fact that they have a captive audience.
When visiting Semuc Champey you have a couple of choices; getting an over-priced, cold packed lunch from your hostel, or finding somewhere to eat near the national park. Right before the entrance, you will find a few vendors selling hot meals (rice, frijoles, tostadas or pasta) for around 30 – 40Q as well as a few people selling snacks and drinks.
What to pack for a Semuc Champey tour
- A good pair of trainers or walking boots to climb El Mirador
- Swimming gear
- Towel
- A camera to capture some awesome photos or a GoPro to film yourself in the water
- Mosquito repellant
- Sunscreen
- Plenty of water
- Lockers are available on site but make sure that you bring your own padlock.
- A little cash to buy snacks or a few beers from the local kids
