The view from Rusinowa Polana is enough to make you gasp. After traipsing through thick pine, spruce and rowan forest with only glimpses of the occasional mountain peak, the whole of the Tatras open up in front of you, the snow-capped peaks jabbing at the wide-open skies. One minute I was trudging up a last set of steps, head down, thinking about little more than my breathing and my burning thighs; the next, the forest thinned, the sky opened out, and I was standing at the top of a long, sloping pasture with the Tatras suddenly, almost absurdly, close.
The Rusinowa Polana hike starts barely half an hour from Zakopane, which is part of what makes the town such a remarkable place to spend time outdoors. Known as Poland’s winter capital, Zakopane has a fairly unique character. It’s a place where carved timber villas in the distinctive Zakopane style are set beside a funicular climbing Gubałówka for sunset views, the great ski jump of Wielka Krokiew looming over the southern edge of town, and a highland culture that still shapes the food, music and architecture. But its real draw is what lies on its doorstep. Tatra National Park begins just on the edge of the town, and within a short ride you can be at the foot of dozens of marked trails, from easy valley strolls to some of the most exposed ridge walks in Central Europe.
That range is exactly why choosing a hike here can be a daunting task. Giewont, the mountain that dominates Zakopane’s skyline, ends in a chain-assisted scramble where summer queues are common. Rysy, the highest peak in Poland, is a serious undertaking for fit, experienced hikers, and Orla Perć is famously one of the most dangerous trails in the country. At the other extreme, valleys such as Kościeliska and Chochołowska are beautiful but largely flat, with the peaks framing the view.
Rusinowa Polana sits in a spot between the two. It takes only a few hours and a general level of fitness rather than technical skill, yet it gives you the kind of mountain view that usually takes a full day of climbing to earn. This guide covers how to get there, which trail to take, what to expect at every stage and the practical details that make the day run smoothly.
Quick Facts: Rusinowa Polana and Gęsia Szyja Hike
Whether you stop at the meadow or push on all the way to the summit, it helps to know what you are signing up for. The figures below are based on the easiest approach, the green trail from Wierch Poroniec, with Rusinowa Polana and Gęsia Szyja shown separately so you can decide how far to walk before you set off.
| From Wierch Poroniec (green trail) | Rusinowa Polana | Gęsia Szyja |
|---|---|---|
| Distance one way | About 3.2 km | About 4.5 km (1.3 km beyond the meadow) |
| Distance return | About 6.4 km | About 9 km |
| Time up | About 1 hr | About 1 hr 50 min (45 – 50 min beyond the meadow) |
| Time return (excl. stops) | About 1 hr 50 min | About 3 – 3.5 hrs |
| Elevation gain | About 130 m | About 430 m (roughly 300 m beyond the meadow) |
| Altitude | Around 1,200 m | 1,489 m |
| Difficulty | Easy, family-friendly | Moderate; steep wooden steps, non-technical |
Why Hike Rusinowa Polana?
Most visitors to Zakopane head straight for one of two icons when hiking. Morskie Oko, the glacial lake surrounded by sheer granite walls, is undeniably spectacular, but reaching it means a long walk along an asphalt road and, in summer, being surrounded by thousands of other people. Kasprowy Wierch offers fantastic views from almost 2,000 m, yet most people arrive by cable car from Kuźnice. Both are worth seeing, but neither of them feels much like a peaceful day in the mountains.
Rusinowa Polana is somewhere in between, both geographically and in spirit. You walk there through a forest trail, rather than along paved roads, and you earn the view without needing a cable car or a head for heights. Additionally, the panorama that you get rivals anything in the Polish Tatras. It’s a relatively easy hike that feels rewarding, while still giving you the sense of being in the heart of the mountain range.
The Panorama
The view at the culmination of this hike is the main reason to do it. Rusinowa Polana sits at around 1,200 m on a south-facing slope at the foot of Gęsia Szyja. That position is everything. Nothing stands between the meadow and the main ridge of the High Tatras, giving it the feel of a wide-open space, so the mountains fill the horizon in a single sweep rather than appearing in glimpses between trees, valleys, or neighbouring peaks.
To the south-west rise the dark, jagged granite summits, many of them across the border in Slovakia. To the east, you’ll spot the pale limestone domes of Hawrań and Murań in the Belianske Tatras that look much, and although they are a little less impressive, they are still a sight to behold, especially when snow lingers in their gullies. Between the two, forested valleys fall away towards the Białka River, giving the whole scene a sense of depth that photographs struggle to capture, as I found as I snapped away.
The Pastoral Character
Rusinowa Polana is still a working landscape, and the meadow exists because of centuries of grazing. Highland shepherds have driven their flocks up here each summer, and without them the forest would gradually have reclaimed the slopes. Today Tatra National Park keeps that tradition alive deliberately, with seasonal sheep grazing that protects the meadow’s wildflowers and grasses as well as the highland culture.
In summer, the animals graze the slopes under the eye of the baca, the head shepherd, and his juhasi. Their wooden huts that are dotted around the landscape are the heart of it all. These are the spots where sheep’s milk is turned into bundz, a fresh, mild cheese, and oscypek, the spindle-shaped smoked cheese pressed into carved wooden moulds and hung in the smoky rafters. Oscypek holds EU Protected Designation of Origin status, and buying it here, from the people who made it a few metres away, is as close to the source as it gets and much better than picking it up from the tourist stalls that line Zakopane’s town centre.
These scattered wooden huts and shelters are all part of the appeal of this hike’s end point, adding to the sense of stepping back in time. They are a reminder that this is the Podhale of the highlanders, the górale, whose music, dress and traditions still shape life around Zakopane.
In autumn, the flocks are brought down from the mountain pastures, and the return is celebrated in villages across the region; I wrote about joining one of these celebrations in my redyk in Czarny Dunajec post.
The Ease of the Hike
All of the Tatras’ famous views vary when it comes to how difficult they are to reach. For example, Morskie Oko is around 9 km each way, and the high ridges demand a certain level of fitness and experience, as well as a head for heights. Rusinowa Polana, on the other hand, asks for very little in comparison: the walk is just about an hour on a wide forest path from Wierch Poroniec, with only around 130 m of gentle climbing that is unlikely to strain even the most untrained legs.
That makes it one of the most inclusive hikes in the park. While hiking, I noticed families with young children, people pushing buggies, and casual walkers. Anyone easing into a Tatra trip can reach the meadow comfortably, and it makes an ideal first outing to get a feel for the mountains before tackling something bigger.
How to Get from Zakopane to the Trailhead
All three trailheads are easy enough to reach, sitting along the road from Zakopane towards Łysa Polana and Morskie Oko, roughly 25–35 minutes’ drive east of town.
By Bus or Minibus
Private minibuses heading for Morskie Oko leave regularly from the stops opposite Zakopane’s main bus station, but services can get quite busy. Ask the driver to drop you at Wierch Poroniec, Zazadnia or Palenica Białczańska, depending on your route, and it is worth noting that fares are usually paid in cash on board, so visit an ATM beforehand. Services are more frequent in summer and less consistent out of season, so check the last departure back before you set off.
By Car & Parking
Wierch Poroniec has a paid car park right at the start of the green trail, about 3 km before Łysa Polana. Prices were 40 złoty per vehicle, which may seem a bit steep, but it covers the entire day. Parking attendants only accept cash, but I found that I was able to pay by card at the small ticket office/gift shop at the entrance to the car park.
Be warned that the car park is relatively small and spaces fill quickly. I arrived first thing in the morning and was able to get a space, but by the time I returned a few hours later, there wasn’t a parking spot to be found. However, there is some overflow parking along road 960 towards Nowy Targ.
A word of warning: typing “Rusinowa Polana” into your sat nav usually sends you to Palenica Białczańska, the Morskie Oko car park. You can start from there, but spaces must be booked online in advance through the Tatra National Park website.
Tatra National Park Entry Tickets
Rusinowa Polana lies inside Tatra National Park (TPN), so you need an entry ticket. You can buy one online in advance or from the ticket booth at the trailhead – at the time of writing, the cost was 11 złoty per person. Children under seven enter free. Keep the ticket on your phone or printed, as rangers do carry out checks.
Rusinowa Polana Trail Routes Explained
Three marked trails converge on the meadow, all of them easy to follow using the trail markers and signs, with the green trail then continuing up to Gęsia Szyja.
From Wierch Poroniec (Green Trail)
This is by far the easiest and most pleasant approach. The path is wide and well-maintained, running through the forest with only a gentle incline for around 3.2 km that barely feels like you’re going uphill. Allow about an hour. There is a short set of steps just before you emerge onto the meadow, but otherwise it is suitable for families, people pushing prams, and inexperienced walkers.
From Palenica Białczańska via Wiktorówki (Blue Trail)
The shortest route, at roughly 40–50 minutes uphill, and the one that passes the Wiktorówki sanctuary. It starts from the busy Morskie Oko car park, so arrive early. It is steeper and rougher underfoot than the green trail.
From Zazadnia (Blue Trail)
A quieter forest route of about 1 hour 15 minutes, joining the Palenica trail near Wiktorówki. A good choice if you are arriving by minibus and want to avoid the crowds.
Which Route Should You Choose?
My pick would be to take a one-way route: walk up the green trail from Wierch Poroniec, climb Gęsia Szyja, then descend via Wiktorówki to Palenica Białczańska, where minibuses run back to Zakopane. This way, you never retrace your steps, and you catch the sanctuary on the way down.
A Step by Step Guide to the Hike
This walk is made up of distinct sections. It starts with a peaceful, hour-long walk through the forest, before suddenly and unexpectedly unveiling the meadow, followed by a lung-busting climb to the summit rocks of Gęsia Szyja and, if you choose, a descent past one of the Tatras’ most atmospheric chapels. Here is what to expect at each stage, following our recommended route from Wierch Poroniec.
Through the Forest from Wierch Poroniec
The green trail leaves the car park, and the path goes straight into dense spruce forest. Although the initial path has a steady incline, it’s a relatively easy ramble through the woods with broad paths and soft ground. After the first uphill climb, for most of the hour, you ascend so gradually you barely notice it.
Arriving at Rusinowa Polana
Eventually, after a final flight of steps, the trees open up, and you find yourself suddenly standing on an open slope with the whole of the High Tatras laid out before you. It is a genuinely breathtaking reveal.
Look southwest for the jagged granite ridges of the Slovak High Tatras, and east for the pale limestone humps of Hawrań and Murań. A short black trail from the lower edge of the meadow leads to Polana pod Wołoszynem, a quieter viewpoint about 25 minutes there and back. Most people end here, stopping for a picnic and a tea or coffee on the benches that sit on the crest of the slope, just enjoying the view. However, we’re going to go a step further.
Climbing to Gęsia Szyja
From the top of the meadow, the green trail turns uphill, and the hard work begins. From the grass, a long staircase of wooden steps heads up through the forest, climbing steadily for around 45–50 minutes and 1.3 km. There is nothing technical here, but it is relentless and at points, I thought the stairs would never end. It doesn’t help that the steps can be uneven, taking their toll on your thighs and, when I visited in mid-October, they were icy in the morning and muddy on my descent an hour or so later. Take it at your own pace and pause to look back over your shoulder. Keep an eye on the tree line, because if you’re lucky like me, you’ll see plenty of wild deer roaming around that don’t seem to be spooked by hikers.
The summit, at 1,489 m, is crowned by a cluster of dolomite outcrops around 15 m high, known as the Waksmundzkie Skałki. Scramble carefully onto the rocks, and the view opens out further than it does from the meadow, taking in the High Tatras, the Belianske Tatras and, on a clear day, the green folds of Podhale stretching north. It’s worth the climb.
Descending: Back the Same Way or Via Wiktorówki
The easiest and simplest option is to retrace your steps to the meadow and back down the green trail to Wierch Poroniec, which is what I did.
For a more varied day, return to the meadow and take the blue trail down towards Palenica Białczańska. After a short descent, you reach the Sanctuary of Mary, Queen of the Tatras at Wiktorówki, a wooden chapel tucked into a forest clearing. It has long been associated with mountain guides, climbers and rescuers, and plaques commemorating those lost in the mountains line the grounds. It is a quiet, affecting place to stop and rest before the final stretch down to the road.
If you still have energy, the green trail continues beyond Gęsia Szyja to Rówień Waksmundzka, around an hour from the meadow, where it links with routes towards Hala Gąsienicowa. Check a current trail map before committing.
Practical Tips for the Hike
- Start early. Car parks fill and the trails get busy by late morning in summer.
- Wear proper footwear. The wooden steps to Gęsia Szyja are slippery when wet or frosty.
- Leave the dog at home. Dogs are not permitted on Tatra National Park trails.
- Check the forecast. Mountain weather turns quickly; the Polish mountain rescue service (TOPR) publishes conditions and avalanche warnings.
- Bring cash for the shepherd’s hut and the minibuses or car parking.
- Stay on the marked trails. It is the law in the national park, and it protects the meadow.
Oscypek and Food on the Trail
The shepherd’s hut on Rusinowa Polana is reason enough to make the walk in peak season. During the grazing season, roughly late spring to very early autumn, the baca sells smoked oscypek, soft fresh bundz and żętyca, the sour whey that highlanders drink. There’s no better way to eat oscypek than when it is still warm from the smokehouse, with that view in front of you.
Unfortunately, when I visited at the start of October, it wasn’t open and beyond that, there is no mountain hut or café on the route. With this in mind, make sure to pack water, a flask of something warm, snacks and a proper lunch. If you are hiking in spring or summer, bring cash for the hut.
For more on oscypek and the other dishes worth tracking down in town, check out my Zakopane food guide.
When is the Best Time to Hike Rusinowa Polana
Rusinowa Polana is a year-round hike, but it can change drastically depending on what month you decide to do it. Summer brings the sheep, the shepherds, and the busiest trails; autumn offers quieter paths and golden treetops; while winter turns the meadow white with snow that matches the peaks.
Summer (June to August)
The meadow is at its greenest and most verdantt, with sheep on the slopes and the shepherd’s hut in full swing. It is also the busiest time, so start early, especially if you plan to use the Palenica Białczańska trail that shares its car park with Morskie Oko.
Autumn (September to October)
Arguably the best time of all, especially if you get one of those autumn mornings when the sky is clear and the air is crisp. I hiked in mid-October and, despite there being some ice on the trail, the paths weren’t too muddy (other than the steps up to Gęsia Szyja), and I was blown away by the oranges and yellows of the larches on the lower slopes against the first dusting of snow on the high peaks. It’s worth noting that the shepherds usually drive the flocks down in late September.
Winter (November to March)
The green trail from Wierch Poroniec is a popular snowshoe and winter walk, and the snow-covered meadow is magical, but just be warned that the wooden steps up to Gęsia Szyja can be icy and treacherous, so microspikes are essential. Even though it is a relatively easy hike in the warmer months, the summit is best left to experienced winter walkers at this time of year. Make sure to check the weather forecast before you set off.
Practical Tips for the Hike
- Start early. Car parks fill and the trails get busy by late morning in summer.
- Wear proper footwear. The wooden steps to Gęsia Szyja are slippery when wet or frosty.
- Leave the dog at home. Dogs are not permitted on Tatra National Park trails.
- Check the forecast. Mountain weather turns quickly; the Polish mountain rescue service (TOPR) publishes conditions and avalanche warnings.
- Bring cash. For the shepherd’s hut and the minibuses or carparking.
- Stay on the marked trails. It is the law in the national park, and it protects the meadow.
Where to Stay in Zakopane for Tatra Hikes
Zakopane is the ideal base for exploring the Polish Tatras. It’s a touristy town with all the amenities you need for an extended stay, with plenty of accommodation options. Staying in the town centre puts restaurants, bars, and the minibus stops for the trailheads within walking distance, while the smaller villages to the east are less convenient but closer to the mountains. Either way, look for somewhere with space to dry wet gear and a comfortable place to recover after a day on your feet.
Central Zakopane, near Krupówki
The best base if you are relying on public transport, with the minibus stops a short walk away and plenty of restaurants for the evening.
Bukowina Tatrzańska or Murzasichle
Quieter villages east of town, much closer to the trailheads and ideal if you have a car. Both have traditional wooden guesthouses and thermal baths nearby.
Where I Stayed: Willa Tatiana Esencja
I stayed at Willa Tatiana Esencja, the newest of the Tatiana family of villas on ul. Makuszyńskiego in central Zakopane, and it turned out to be one of the most characterful places in the mountains, if not one of the most unique places I have ever slept.
Zakopane is full of rustic, mountain-style lodges, but the idea behind Esencja is a little different. Rather than a single house style, it gathers the most distinctive elements of its sister villas (Folk, Boutique, Lux and Premium) and adds a handful of entirely new suites of its own, all uniquely designed and furnished. The result feels less like a guesthouse and more like a collection of small galleries, each apartment decorated separately around its own theme.
Craftsmanship is the common thread. The interiors are a layered mix of old reclaimed wood, stone and glass, with antique furniture set alongside contemporary pieces. Some suites centre on colourful Art Nouveau stained glass (with my room having stained glass ceilings that became backlit with the flick of a switch); others on painted canvases, woven tapestries or glazed majolica. Most striking of all are the tiled stoves, each one designed by a Lithuanian tile workshop individually and built by hand by Polish stove fitters. In a town where highland style is often reduced to a few carved chairs and a sheepskin rug, Esencja takes the tradition seriously and reinterprets it with real artistry.
The apartments range from intimate suites for three to two-level spaces sleeping six, with separate bedrooms and cosy alcoves containing comfortable double beds, making it equally suited to a romantic weekend away for couples or families and small groups heading into the Tatras together. Fully self-contained, with kitchens, multiple bathrooms and living spaces, the apartments give you room to spread out after a long day on the trails, with space to dry boots and plan the next hike.
After the Hike: A Beer & Food in Zakopane
What better way to finish a day in the Tatras than with a cold pint and a hearty plate of Polish mountain cuisine back in town? Zakopane is touristy, so there’s no shortage of restaurants and brewpubs. While the craft beer scene may stick to the more traditional pilsners, wheat beers and dunkels, it has grown steadily, with taprooms pouring local Polish brews alongside the usual big-name lagers. For our favourite spots, see the Zakopane craft beer guide. Most places also serve food.
Rusinowa Polana FAQs
Still planning your route? These are the questions that I found myself asking before hiking Rusinowa Polana and Gęsia Szyja, from how long the walk takes to whether I needed a ticket. If you only have a minute before setting off, start here, and hopefully it answers all the essentials.
How long does the Rusinowa Polana hike take?
To Rusinowa Polana, about an hour each way from Wierch Poroniec (3.2 km). To Gęsia Szyja, allow about 1 hour 50 minutes up (4.5 km) and 3–3.5 hours return, excluding stops.
Is Gęsia Szyja difficult?
It is not technical, but the steep climb of wooden steps from the meadow is tiring. The steps aren’t a uniform height, with some much higher than others, and within just a few minutes into the climb, my thighs were already burning a little. Take your time and allow 45–50 minutes.
Can you hike Rusinowa Polana in winter?
Yes. The green trail from Wierch Poroniec is a popular winter walk, however, the steps to Gęsia Szyja can be icy, so microspikes are essential.
Do you need a ticket for Rusinowa Polana?
The trail lies within Tatra National Park, so you need an entry ticket, bought online or at the trailhead (11 złoty per person at the time of writing). Children under seven go free.
Is Rusinowa Polana suitable for children?
The green trail from Wierch Poroniec is gentle and very family-friendly. I saw a lot of people doing the route with kids and even pushing prams or buggies. Just be warned that the climb to Gęsia Szyja only suits older children with some stamina.
Can you combine Rusinowa Polana with Morskie Oko?
Yes. The blue trail links the meadow with Palenica Białczańska, the start of the road to Morskie Oko, though doing both makes for a long day.
