There is a saying in Croatia that while other nations eat to live, Croatians live to eat. Spending five days in the region of Dubrovnik and the surrounding Dubrovnik Riviera has made me realise that this may be a slight understatement.
Sitting on the sun-kissed shores of the Adriatic Sea, the alluring city of Dubrovnik has a storied past, and with it, a rich gastronomical history that dates back to when the region was part of the Independent Republic of Ragusa, and its ports saw visitors from all over Europe that brought their own dishes, recipes and ingredients.
Amongst the cobbled streets and narrow alleyways of the riviera’s medieval towns you will find everything from quaint, family-run eateries and charming seaside establishments to fine-dining destinations that fuse innovation and tradition.
The region’s coastline influences menus in a big way here and fresh seafood is certainly a staple. This brings me to another saying that I heard multiple times in Croatia: Their fish swims 3 times – Once in the sea, then in olive oil, and finally in the wine that you drink. Wherever you chose to eat, you will be guaranteed fresh seafood caught by skilled local fishermen, whether this is succulent oysters harvested from Ston Bay or grilled fish caught that very morning.
However, Dubrovnik’s culinary offerings extend far beyond seafood. Throughout the Dubrovnik Riviera traditional Dalmatian cuisine takes center stage. Hearty dishes such as peka or pasticada, tender beef stewed in a rich wine sauce, offer a glimpse into Dubrovnik’s gastronomic heritage.
Whether you’re a seasoned foodie or just looking to sample local delicacies, Dubrovnik a true paradise.
Ludo More
Overlooking the harbour on Tiha bay in Cavtat, Ludo More – meaning ‘Crazy Sea’ in Croatian – is a family-run restaurant with a menu that is dominated by Adriatic seafood prepared according to traditional recipes, just with a slightly modern twist. The fish is all supplemented by vegetables and herbs grown in Ludo More’s own garden. Although the dishes are simple, the focus is on fresh ingredients and the 3-course lunch menu was one of the culinary highlights of my time on the Dubrovnik Riviera.
Where: Put Tihe 22
When: Daily 9am – 12am
Leut
Opened by the Bobić family in 1971, Leut is one of Cavtat’s longest-running restaurants and a favourite amongst politicians and celebrities. It is mostly known for its seafood, all of which is sourced from local fishing vessels and displayed on the Cavtat promenade to catch the eye of hungry tourists. While the cosy, Dalmatian-style restaurant is fairly compact, it spills out onto a wonderfully romantic terrace with views of the entire bay.
Where: Trumbićev put 17
When: Daily 11am – 12pm
Konavoski Dvori Eco Green Restaurant
Konavoski Dvori Eco Green Restaurant isn’t in Cavtat but rather 20km east in Konavle, a region of steep hills and deep valleys that lines Croatia’s border with Montenegro. However, it is worth the taxi ride to get there. This restaurant sits amidst lush countryside next to the Ljuta River on the grounds of an ancient mill, complete with a functioning waterwheel. Konavoski Dvori focuses on classic Croatian dishes such as lamb or octopus ispod peke, slow-cooked in hot embers under a bell-shaped lid, or peka. All of this is served in a wonderfully romantic setting by wait staff in traditional outfits.
Where: Ljuta b.b, 20217, Ljuta
When: Daily 11am – 11pm
Restaurant Kopun
Sitting in the shadow of the Church of St Ignatius at the top of the Jesuit steps made famous in Game of Throne’s when they were featured in Cersei Lannister’s iconic walk of shame, Restaurant Kopun’s menu focusses heavily on old Croatian recipes that have been handed down through centuries.
Its name draws from the local dialect for Kopun is local word for ‘capon’, the castrated rooster that was once bred exclusively for its meat and was considered a delicacy throughout Europe. It should go without saying that their capon stuffed with meat, herbs and spices that is baked for 6 hours and large enough to feed 5 is the star of the menu (this has to be pre-ordered the day before) but you will also find a 16th century recipe for capon stewed in wine, honey and sour orange sauce as well as a 19th century dish of capon in mushroom sauce with wild berries, plum, and red wine.
Where: Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 7, Dubrovnik Old Town
When: Daily 11am – 11pm
Restaurant Panorama
People don’t necessarily come to Restaurant Panorama for the food, but for the view. Situated at the top of Srđ hill right beside the cable car station, panorama has the best location in the city, offering sweeping views of not just the old town, but the entire bay of Lapad along with Lokrum and the Elaphite islands. Even if you don’t plan on eating, this is the essential spot for enjoying the sunset over the Adriatic with a cocktail or beer.
That isn’t to say the food isn’t great here, the restaurant prides itself on its produced sourced from the Dubrovnik region and the fish is freshly caught by local fisherman.
Reservations are essential and it is worth noting that the cable car doesn’t run during adverse weather, meaning that you will either need to take a taxi, or commit to a steep, strenuous hike up and down the hillside.
Where: Srđ ul. 3, Dubrovnik
When: Daily 9am – 12pm
Dubravka 1836 Restaurant & Cafe
Alongside Restaurant Panorama, the Nautika Group operates two other restaurants in the city: Nautika, a fine-dining restaurant under the stewardship of Chef Mario Bunda, and the slightly more casual Dubravka 1836 Restaurant & Café. You will find both at the Pile Gate entrance to the old city, allowing you to dine within view of Lovrijenac, Bokar and Minčeta fortresses.
As you may have guessed, Dubravka was founded in 1836 and the menu is just as timeless, featuring typical Croatian dishes of local fish, squid, and dalmatian rib-eye steak. The pizzas are also extraordinarily good.
Where: Brsalje ul. 1, Dubrovnik
When: Daily 11am – 11pm
360
Sitting atop Dubrovnik’s harbour walls overlooking the Old Port, 360 is Dubrovnik’s fist and only Michelin starred restaurant. The constantly changing menu is devised by chef Marijo Curić, born and raised in Dubrovnik, who aims to transform his favourite Dalmatian recipes into something refined and sophisticated. While there is an a la carte menu, the 5 course tasting menu will set you back €178 per person with the choice of the Antologija menu featuring dishes handcrafted by Curić or the Republika menu consisting of a modern take on the heritage dishes from Renaissance Dubrovnik.
Where: Dubrovačke Gradske Zidine, Ul. Svetog Dominika bb, Dubrovnik
When: Tues to Sun 6.30am – 10.30pm
Konoba Bakus
It is for this reason along, with the divine Dingač wines produced along the Dingač peninsula, that both Ston and Mali Ston are considered gourmet destinations.
While divine seafood is in abundance throughout the region, Konoba Bakus is a must try when visiting Ston. This classic of the peninsula’s culinary scene is known for its seafood specialties and for offering some of the best shellfish on the Adriatic coast. Tucked away in one of the town’s alleyways, Diners spill out of the restaurant to dine on long tables on the cobblestones outside beneath the shade of the restaurant’s canopies. Here they can indulge in a broad wine list and what I was told by a local is the finest squid ink risotto on the entire Dubrovnik Riviera.
While you’re in Ston, make sure to sample Stonska torta (Ston Cake). While a sweet and savoury cake made with pasta may not sound all that appetising – and trust me, it is a bit of an acquired taste – it’s a medieval recipe unique to this town that has been prepared by its residents for centuries.
