Pushkar is unlike anywhere else in Rajasthan. This small, yet enchanting town has the right mix of mysticism, religious fervour, and magnetism that causes backpackers and new-age types to linger here for weeks, if not months.
The town itself encircles a holy lake, thought to have been created when Lord Brahma vanquished a demon, Vajranash, using a lotus flower. The lotus flower fell to the ground, creating Pushkar lake. Even to this day, the town contains one of the world’s only Brahma temples, making it a prominent Hindu pilgrimage town that devout Hindus should visit at least once in their lives.
Although Brahma may be the focus of much of the town’s devotion, there are actually 52 bathing ghats and 400 pastel blue temples surrounding the lake meaning that the town hums and vibrates to the constant sound of chanting, drumming and incense-fuelled puja.
As magical as this sounds, Pushkar did leave me feeling a little cold. The town is heavily touristic, with one long bazaar stretching the entire length of the lake, selling trinkets, tat, and elephant print trousers. It was one of the few places in India that I felt hassled and harangued. Or at least the only place where it was enough to irritate me.
Despite the commercialism, abundance of ‘beg-packers‘ and occasional scam-artists, the town is still so unique in Rajasthan that you cannot miss it from your itinerary.
Where to Stay in Pushkar
Due to the fact that it is a traveller’s hub, drawing in hippies, crusty backpackers, and Hindu pilgrims from far and wide, Pushkar has a lot more budget options than mid-range or expensive hotels. Many of the newer, more modern backpacker hostels are located on the eastern edge of town, around 10 minute’s walk from the lake. Although accommodation is relatively cheap, expect prices to skyrocket during the camel fair.
Zostel
As the largest hostel chain on the Indian subcontinent, with 28 branches across India and Nepal, Zostel is always a safe choice if you want a hostel that is reasonably priced, clean, and friendly. I stayed at a couple during my time in Rajasthan and was relatively impressed. Yes, they’re nothing special, but Pushkar’s Zostel has an onsite cafe, a large atrium complete with sofas for relaxation and a small, outdoor swimming pool that is cleaned daily.
The reception staff are incredibly helpful, assisting me in booking both train tickets and an onward taxi to Ajmer train station. They also offer daily tours around the lake and up to Savitri Mata Temple.
Madpacker’s
Another hostel chain that is hugely popular across India. My only previous experience of the Madpacker’s brand is the fairly substandard, but welcoming and friendly, branch in South Delhi, however, Madpacker’s Pushkar is of a higher standard. Situated across the road from Zostel, Madpacker’s is set within a beautiful building and decorated within an inch of its life with patterned throws, cushions, and Indian murals.
Inn Seventh Heaven
Set within a beautifully converted haveli, you walk through the heavy wooden doors into a central courtyard complete with a marble fountain and flower petals scattered all around. Green vines and flowers tumble down into the incense-scented central atrium. This hotel is the perfect, tranquil haven to escape the hubbub of the town. As a boutique hotel, all of the rooms spread over the 3 floors are uniquely decorated and stuffed with hand-crafted furniture and comfortable beds.
Even if you are not staying here, it is worth visiting to eat at the sixth sense restaurant on the top floor, as I did.
Things to do in Pushkar
Savitri Mata Temple
It’s a long walk from Pushkar Lake up to Savitri Mata Temple; 2km and 650 steps to be precise, taking around 45 minutes. However, the view is worth it. The temple sits atop a hill overlooking the entire town to one side and plains and mountains to the other. While the main reason to visit is for the vistas, the temple itself is welcoming and you’ll experience no hassle when inside, which is a bit of a contrast to the town’s more touristy houses of worship. The best time to visit is for sunrise or sunset.
Keep an eye out for the friendly macaques and naughty langurs that hang around on the trail. I watched as an entire posse of fluffy bandits raided a snack stall beside the temple and stole armfuls of crisps and water bottles.
If the walk seems a little strenuous, it is possible to take a cable car to the top (90 rupees, open 9.30 am to 7.30 pm)
Brahma Temple
The holy lake is said to have been created in Pushkar when Brahma dropped a lotus flower and to this day, the town is home to one of the world’s only Brahma temples. With its bright red spire surrounded by blue columns, the temple can become fairly busy and daunting during the chanting ceremonies, or aartis, conducted here (one begins two hours before sunrise, one 40 minutes after sunset, and one 5 hours after sunset). Bags, cameras and shoes must be left at the lockers outside and expect to be hassled by people for donations when inside. My recommendation is to leave if you are made to feel uncomfortable, and only donate in the donation boxes that are scattered throughout the temple.
Visit the 52 Ghats
There are fifty-two bathing ghats surrounding Pushkar’s holy lake, where holy men mill around, performing puja and handing out flowers while pilgrims bathe in the sacred waters. Some of the ghats have more significance than others. It was in Gandhi Ghat where Mahatma Gandhi’s ashes were scattered, and Vishnu and Brahma are said to have bathed in Varah Ghat and Brahma ghat respectively.
As evening approaches and puja begins, take a seat at sunset point along with other tourists and locals to watch the sunset with a soundtrack of chanting and drums.
Remember to be respectful when visiting the ghats; remove your shoes and don’t smoke or take photographs.
Shopping
Lining the northern side of the lake, along Main Market Road, Pushkar’s Sadar Bazaar is lined with shops selling everything from Indian souvenirs and touristy trinkets to hand-crafted, locally made jewellery. Many of the charming little shops are covered in beautiful, hand-painted signs.
For those that have been on the road for a while, Sadar Bazaar is the perfect place to stock up on supplies such as toiletries, clothing and a pair of the ubiquitous elephant-print trousers. As the market is fairly touristy, You’ll have to haggle for the best price.
Pushkar Camel Fair
Each year, once the month of Kartika arrives, 200,000 people descend on Pushkar, bringing with them 50,000 camels and horses. The city is transformed into a colourful, heaving mass of animals, tourists, mystics and musicians and traders arrive to flog their livestock.
Although business is the main order of the day, once the fair starts, a vibrant and diverse cultural program draws in the crowds; snake charmers, Rajasthani wrestling, wedding parades, sports and competitions for ‘best moustache’ or ‘most beautifully decorated camel’ fill up the schedule. Aside from all of the festivities, Kartik Purnima is also the time when thousands of pilgrims arrive in Pushkar to bathe in the sacred waters.
The fair usually takes place in November, but it’s recommended that you check the dates and book accommodation well in advance.
Yoga
As you can imagine in a town that is popular with backpackers, there is an abundance of Yoga workshops and classes. Pushkar Yoga Garden, on Vamdev Road, seems to be one of the most popular. They run 4 classes per day, each 90 minutes in length. One 90-minute session costs 400 Rupees.
Walking Tour – 4 Religions in a Mile
The entire city of Pushkar focusses on its central, holy lake and the crescent-shaped road that clings to its edge. With the Vedic walking tour, you spend 2 and a half hours exploring the one mile stretch of road that manages to squeeze in temples for all 4 of India’s major religions. Although you can get a feel for the town by wandering around and visiting the temples by yourself, this tour will give you a deeper insight into this mystical town as well as encouraging you to meet people and ask questions. There is also the added bonus of having a guide, meaning you will avoid hassle as you visit the city’s sights.
Tours cost 1800 rupees per person and last 2 and a half hours. Evening photography tours are also available.
Where to Eat & Drink in Pushkar
As Pushkar is a touristy town, there is no shortage of atmospheric cafes and eateries with lakeside views or rooftop terraces. However, many of them don’t have food that matches their views in terms of quality. As always, I’d recommend sampling the street food that’s on sale throughout the town for a cheap and tasty meal. You can find stalls north of the lake, all along the Main Market Road, with a lot of fruit stalls clustered is the small square beside Varaha Ghat.
The city is strictly vegetarian, with no meat, eggs or alcohol allowed within 2 km of the Brahma temple. This means that Pushkar is food heaven for veggies and vegans.
Cafe Nature’s Blessing
If you eat anywhere in Pushkar, it should be at Cafe Nature’s Blessing. Located a little out of town, near to both the Madpacker’s Hostel and Zostel, this small and friendly, family-run cafe has an extensive vegan menu and some of the best, freshest food you will eat in Rajasthan. I ate the mushrooms in mango sauce, which was phenomenal.
Where: Panch Kund Road
When: Daily 9am – 8pm
Sunset Cafe
Located by the water, near to the eastern ghats, Sunset cafe is perfectly placed beside Sunset Point, where crowds of tourists and locals gather late afternoon and early evening to see the day out. The food is the usual tourist fare, but they do have a German bakery on site. I spent a couple of mornings sitting outside the cafe, nursing a masala chai and watching the early morning prayers at the lake.
Where: Parikrama Marg, Near Sun Set Point
Laffa Walla Falafel Stand
There are a few identikit falafel wrap stands clustered in a small area of Sadar Bazaar, but I was told by a few people that Laffa Walla is the original. It’s a claim that was verified by the owner, who enthusiastically told me, multiple times, that he serves the best falafel in Pushkar. He was probably right; the food was delicious, filling, and reasonably priced. I even had a couple of free masala chais thrown in for good measure.
Where: Main Market Rd
When: Daily 9am – 11pm
Sixth Sense
Even if the food isn’t the best that you will eat in Rajasthan, it is worth eating here for the atmosphere. Situated on the top floor of the Seventh Heaven Hotel, you enter into the stunning courtyard of this converted haveli surrounded by flowing water features and vines tumbling down from the higher floors. The relaxed, rooftop restaurant has swing chairs and sofas, allowing you to chill out with an expansive view over the city, as well as a regular dining area. Keep an eye out for the pulley system that whisks meals and drinks up to the roof from the ground floor kitchen.
Where: Choti Basti
When: Daily 6pm – 9.30pm
Laughing Buddha Cafe
I’m a little wary of recommending the Laughing Buddha, as the food isn’t wonderful, and the menu is pretty sparse, but eating here contributes to a good cause. Half of the cafe’s profits go to the Little Buddha’s Hearts Foundation, a charity organised by the Laughing Buddha’s owner, Sheru, to support children’s education in Nadliya. Even if you don’t eat here, you can drop off a donation of stationary, shoes or clothes at the donation box inside.
Where: Main Market Rd, near Gau Ghat Entrance
When: Daily 9.30am – 10.30pm
Tips & Advice for Visiting Pushkar
Pushkar is considered sacred, so many rules that apply within India’s religious sites, apply within the town as a whole.
Consumption of alcohol, meat or eggs is not allowed within 2 km of the Brahma temple, so I would advise against carrying alcohol with you when visiting the city.
Dress appropriately, particularly when visiting the ghats or temples. It’s recommended that men wear full-length trousers and tops that cover their shoulders. Women are advised to wear full-length clothes. You may not run into any issues if you wear less (a lot of tourists walk around the city in shorts and vests) but, out of respect, it is best to keep covered.
When visiting the Ghats, ensure that you take off your shoes, and try to avoid photographing the bathers.
Common Scams to Avoid in Pushkar
Pushkar is considered sacred, so many rules that apply within India’s religious sites, apply within the town as a whole.
Consumption of alcohol, meat or eggs is not allowed within 2 km of the Brahma temple, so I would advise against carrying alcohol with you when visiting the city.
Dress appropriately, particularly when visiting the ghats or temples. It’s recommended that men wear full-length trousers and tops that cover their shoulders. Women are advised to wear full-length clothes. You may not run into any issues if you wear less (a lot of tourists walk around the city in shorts and vests) but, out of respect, it is best to keep covered.
When visiting the Ghats, ensure that you take off your shoes, and try to avoid photographing the bathers.
It is worth noting that you will find genuine priests at the lakeside that traditionally live off the donations from visitors so if you do want to make a contribution, use the donation boxes that are dotted around the ghats.
A similar scam is also rampant at the Brahma temple. As I looked around the temple, I found that I was consistently hassled for a ‘donation’, to the extent that it was uncomfortable and I had to leave. If you feel pressured, walk away.
As with any city in India, beware of strangers that walk alongside and begin a conversation. They will often be over-friendly, offering to show you to a particular sight or help you navigate the lakeside. These people usually work with shops or agencies in order to get a commission or will try to intimidate you into paying a fee.
Having said all of this, I did manage to meet a lot of genuinely friendly people in Pushkar that just wanted to talk rather than having more sinister motives. More than anything, it is just important to have your wits about you.
Getting In and Out
By Train
As Pushkar doesn’t have its own railway station, the easiest way of reaching the town is by getting a train to the nearby town of Ajmer. This station provides great connections to most major cities in India with multiple trains per day. From the Ajmer train station, you can either take a taxi to Pushkar (30 minutes, ₹500-600), Uber (₹300 flat), or take the public bus.
To take the bus, you will have to avoid the over-enthusiastic rickshaw drivers upon leaving the station and head to the bus stand on the opposite side of the road. The ride is around 30 minutes and costs ₹20.
By Bus
It is possible to get a bus to both Jaipur (4 hours, ₹160, 7 buses daily) and Jodhpur (5 hours, ₹185, 3 daily) from the Naya Bus stand. Jaipur buses leave at 7.15, 7.45, 8.00, 8.30, 9.30, 14.00 and 16.00. Buses for Jodphur leave at 8.00, 10.30 and 12.30.
One Response
Very informative. Helped in my solo travel