Between the National Museum of Fine Arts in the old town of Havana, the revolutionary graffiti scattered around the country or the huge, beautiful murals on many street corners, Cuba has a rich tradition of art. However, none are quite so strange or unique as Fusterlandia.
Beyond the border of Havana Vieja, past Vedado, and nestled next to the Hemingway Marina lies Jaimanitas; a once run-down neighbourhood that has been transformed into a sprawling fantasy land due to the vision of Cuban artist Jose Fuster.
Jose Rodriguez Fuster was a well-renowned artist long before the idea for Fusterlandia had even begun to germinate in his mind. Graduating from Escuela Nacional de Instructores de Arte in the 1960s, Fuster began displaying his drawings, paintings and ceramics around Havana before being commissioned to show his work all over Europe, his slightly surreal depictions of people earning him the nickname ‘The Picasso of the Caribbean’. It was during his time in Europe that Fuster became inspired by the public works of Gaudi and Brâncuși, hoping that on his return he could create something similar in his own country.
In 1975 Fuster moved to Jaimanitas, at the time a small, rundown fishing town on the edge of Havana and set about decorating his studio in mosaic and painted tiles. It wasn’t long before Jose started asking neighbours if he could decorate their buildings too and now, a few decades later, his art has spilt over from his house and now covers the whole neighbourhood; medical centres, playgrounds, benches and bus stops all bear his signature art.
The bus dropped us off on Avenida 5ta, the main artery out of the city, at the entrance to the neighbourhood. It was already clear we were in the right place when we saw that the bus shelter was covered in tiny red, blue and yellow tiles, a colourful, curving tentacle-like sculpture rising from its top, looping around and then returning back to the roof. Almost every surface in the town was adorned with tiles, each one painted with a different image – some by Fuster, some by friends, guests or people from the local community. If you have ever seen Jorge Selarón’s work on Escadaria Selarón, you will have a good idea of what to expect.
I wasn’t sure where to find Fuster’s studio. It wasn’t marked in my lonely planet and I hadn’t had the internet during my time in Havana so Google Maps was a no-go. I set about walking until in the hope of stumbling upon it. Around every turn were more colourful mosaics covering everything; houses, pavements, lamp posts and walls. It is thought that Fuster has decorated over 80 houses in the neighbourhood now, and he shows no sign of stopping.
If I had any doubts as to where Fusterlandia was, they soon melted away when I saw the extravagant arch bending over the entrance, the bright colours inviting visitors into Fuster’s surreal ceramic world. I stepped through into his garden and my jaw dropped. Over the last 30 years, he has set about transforming his home and studio into a 3 story maze of walkways, sculptures and staircases. Handmade ceramic creatures rise out of rooftops, curve around the staircases and arc over patios. Figures made from shards of decorative glass welcome visitors at every turn. What once started as a small vision is now a vast complex of structures and sculptures. Patriotic red, white and blue tributes to his home nation cover walls and chimney stacks, small clusters of installations are dedicated to Santerian spirits while other displays are joyful works containing people and animals with no distinct message whatsoever.
It is clear to all that Selarón, Picasso and Gaudi were all huge influences on Fuster’s work and he pays playful tributes to them with representations of their art hidden throughout his home.
Although it is open to the public, Jose Fuster still works and lives in the complex. If you’re lucky he will be around, working away in his studio on even more tiles to add to his life work. When we visited he was away but we managed to see his son and other assistants diligently covering ceramics with colour.
What was once an economically depressed area has been bolstered by Fuster’s art. Tourists from all over the world are stopping in this once quiet neighbourhood to admire his now-sprawling work of public art. Children that have grown up in Jaimanitas have been inspired by Jose’s work leading to a generation of artists living and working in the area. If you are in Havana, a visit to Fusterlandia is a must.
Getting to Fusterlandia
The easiest way to visit Fusterlandia is to board one of the hop-on-hop-off tour busses at Parque Central and stay on board until the last stop before it turns around. The stop is named La Cecilia. From there it is a fairly cheap taxi ride to up Avenida 5ta to Jaimanitas or you can hop aboard another bus (T2) that will take you to Fusterlandia. Just be sure to tell the driver that this is where you’re heading as you may be the only passenger getting off here.
Fusterlandia is free to enter but it is worth taking some cash as Jose Fuster sells tiles and original artwork to pay for the transformation of Jaimanitas.
16 Responses
What a fascinating glimpse into Fusterlandia! The vibrant colors and whimsical designs truly bring the spirit of Havana to life. It’s incredible to see how art can transform a neighborhood and create such a unique cultural experience. I can’t wait to visit and explore this ceramic wonderland myself!
First time reading about Fusterlandia. I had no idea this gem existed in Havana. It reminds me of a city in Indonesia now coined “rainbow village”. They also were considered as a slum until the vibrant exterior project had bolstered tourism therefore boosting the economy. Thanks for sharing! I would love to visit his work of art up close.
I hadn’t read about rainbow village but your comment just made me google it – it looks fantastic. I’ll definitely add it to my lists of places to visit. It is such a great way to attract tourists and bring money to the community.
I have never been to Havana but Fusterlandia looks like something I would definitely interested in. And he still works around his neighbourhood. I hope he continues to do his work.
I think there’s no stopping him, I imagine he will keep going until the full town is covered in his work! It is a fantastic idea though and it is great that you can actually just walk in to his studio and watch him work.
I get reminded of Rock Garden in Chandigarh, India, on seeing the photos in your post.
Unlike here where painting is done on ceramics, Rock Garden in India, is famous because of its structures and installments made out of recycled items out of which broken ceramics was the major constituent.
The colorful ceramics look so cool and vibrant and also make for a good postcard perfect shot.
That rock garden looks fantastic – Thank’s for mentioning it as I would never have known about it otherwise!
This is impressive! I have not read about Jose Rodriguez Fuster before but this place is an excellent showcase of his skills. The city looks vibrant and happy.
He’s a fantastic, imaginative artist and deserves to be more well known outside of Cuba!
This place looks so lovely, your pictures are great! I’ve never even heard of this city before, but it’s definitely on my list now. I can’t wait to get to Cuba 🙂
Yes you should definitely get to Cuba, It is one of my all time favourite destinations!
I absolutely love things like this!! So crazy! So colorful!! We always travel with the kids and I love showing them art. It gives such expression to life! They would crazy love this!!
Yes, I think it would be the perfect place to take kids, they would love the huge ceramic figures and animals! They could even watch Jose Fuster create some of his tiles which i’m sure would fascinate them!
What a funny place! I never heard of it before. Otherwise, Havana is such a fascinating city! would love to visit again!
Me too, I’m dying to go back – It is one of my favourite places that I have visited!
This looks like a really beautiful place. I actually never heard of it before now but it looks really fantastic. I would go here for sure now that I know about it. Cannot wait to visit Cuba