Leaving Graz by road, it takes only minutes for the city’s ordered streets to start to gradually lose their grip. The pastel façades and tramlines fall away. First, by a belt of warehouses and sawmills, then by fields that spread wider with every mile. Austria’s second city, Europe’s self-styled capital of sustainability, where cyclists glide along the Mur and rooftop gardens flourish and farmers’ markets flourish between the courtyards, is soon traded for another kind of green.
I pass beyond the suburbs in my rental car and quickly hit the motorway that encircles Graz’s urban centre. To the north, the capital beckons with the imperial grandeur of gilded concert halls and art nouveau façades; head east, and I’ll find myself quickly crossing the border to Hungary. However, in the southerly direction in which I’m heading, the industrial landscape soon clears, giving way to the rise and roll of valleys, a living patchwork of vineyards and forest, where the road slices like a silver ribbon through the emerald fields, closely hugging every curve in the topography.
Heading south, the countryside unfurls slowly, as if gently decanted. Occasionally, small villages with names ending in berg and dorf punctuate the slopes; church spires pierce the mist and clusters of vines line the hills. If I were to continue on my way, I’d arrive in Maribor, the unchanging landscape of vineyards making me oblivious to the unperceptible change in country. Instead, I decide to stop in Austria’s most bucolic corner: South Styria.
Ehrenhausen doesn’t differentiate itself too much from these other stopping points: a scattering of ochre rooftops, churches and terraced fields rising in soft tiers towards the manor house above. There’s a smattering of traditional restaurants and inns, each with hand-painted signage and criss-crossed with wooden beams. The streets are quiet but for the steady stream of tourists passing through on their way to imbibe the produce of the region’s vintners. It marks the gateway to the Südsteirische Weinstraße, Austria’s famed South Styrian Wine Road, where the land is bountiful, and every turn of the road reveals another small cellar, buschenschank, or long-standing family producer.
Although Ehrenhausen is unassuming, its history stretches hundreds of years. Records mention a castle here as early as the thirteenth century, but it was the Eggenberg family who left an indelible mark. Their Baroque mausoleum still crowns the hill above the town, its domed silhouette and looming, grotesque statues watching sombrely over the streets below, where the parish church bell seems to toll to no one in particular.
It was late afternoon when I wound my way past the parallel church spires of the town’s diminutive square. The light is waning with a soft, amber glow, and the air carries the faint scent of ripening grapes through my cracked car window.
My final destination is the Loisium Wine & Spa Hotel, which appears on the horizon just beyond the town’s boundary. A slice of architectural modernism set in the curves of the landscape, at first glance, its angular glass and aluminium form looks almost too bold for the pastoral calm around it. Still, it manages to almost seamlessly blend into its surroundings, designed to echo the geometry of the fields that cradle it.
As I step inside, it all makes sense. Designed by New York architect Steven Holl, it seems at first to belong to another world, but this is a place that exists to complement the landscape instead of intruding upon it. Every corridor ends in a view, and every floor-to-ceiling window frames a painting of vineyards tumbling into one another, while the warm wood of the communal spaces manages to draw the outside in.
In a way, the hotel feels like a cathedral to the liquid produce of the region. The minimalist design is softened by touches of Styrian craftsmanship, like natural stone and soft fabrics. Upstairs, rooms are laid out like a wine lover’s sanctuary: pale oak floors, freestanding bathtubs, and balconies that open onto the slopes. Glasses hang on the wall above a wine fridge, and a menu sits on the table, inviting you to choose from the selection of pours that can be delivered to your room from the well-stocked bar downstairs. Even the corridors smell faintly of grape and cedar while each door is adorned with a silhouette of grapes, bottles or a glass as if to drum home the hotel’s commitment to vino.
If the hotel is a cathedral to wine, its Vinotheque is the altar. Each wall is lined with bottles from all of the best local producers, and the glasses available to buy are carefully curated. Guided by a sommelier with an enthusiasm bordering on the poetic, I tasted my way through a few of the region’s calling cards: Sauvignon Blancs alive with green pepper and elderflower; crisp Welschrieslings as sharp as the air outside; and Gelber Muskatellers that smelled of orchards in full bloom. Each pour has a way of pulling you into South Styria’s history of steep terraces worked by hand, of families whose vines cross invisible borders into Slovenia, of a dedication to the land that defines this corner of Austria.
Notably, each guest receives a token for a tasting session that can be redeemed at any point during their stay, but those wanting to take a deeper dive can join any number of more expansive group samplings or, on select occasions, a sprawling, elaborate meal with wine pairings.
Between tastings, the spa beckoned. Few pleasures match swimming outdoors in warm water as mist curls over the vines. The pool is almost set directly within the vineyards, the geometric lines of vines and branches just metres away from the water. The crop sits in tight rows, clouds dragging shadows across the hills, with the faint silhouette of Slovenia in the distance. Around them, loungers spot the grass and shining, retro airstreams serve wine and snacks to sundrenched guests. From the main swimming area, a channel leads inside, where the entire bottom floor of the hotel is dedicated to wellness.
Here, the spa smells of pine and salt. The dark green tiles drip with water from the perspiration of the Finnish sauna, a steam room scented with herbs, and quiet corners where guests read between treatments, wrapped in robes in silence.
I overcome my British sensibilities, drop my fluffy white dressing gown to the floor, and let it all hang out, joining the sweating Austrians on wooden benches amongst the fragrant mists. There’s something freeing about stripping off with no qualms, the nakedness a metaphor for shedding the constant daily nuisances. It’s the kind of place where hours dissolve without you noticing. You emerge cleansed, fresh, and without a care in the world.
Dinner at the hotel’s restaurant is equally unhurried, the dining room glowing amber under soft pendant lights and the setting sun that gleams over the terrace. The menu is a love letter to Styria’s cuisine: local char served with lemon-buttered spinach; veal cheek braised until it falls apart at the touch of a fork; and pumpkin in all its guises: roasted, pickled, and pressed into the nutty green oil that is the region’s culinary signature.
Servers in pressed white shirts fuss over us constantly, and my glass never stayed empty for long. The waiter pours a late-harvest Scheurebe with dessert, poppyseed cake dusted with sugar, that tasted of apricots and fading daylight.
It’s almost cartoonishly romantic, and immediately obvious why the place seems to be exclusively occupied by loved-up couples, honeymooning lovers, and ageing partners celebrating decades of marriage.
We finish the night at the bar, settling on the plump sofas of one of the outdoor terraces. Despite it being mid-summer, the air has a bite, and we warm ourselves with furry blankets and a glass or two of Riesling. “McClane, isn’t it?” says the barman with a cheeky smile as he brings over a bottle. “Of course I’d remember the name. We don’t get many people here that aren’t Austrian.”
Just beyond the railings, the fields are now in complete darkness, illuminated only by the flicker of light from Ehrenhausen’s window panes. The silence slighlty broken by the chirps of crickets and the occasional clinking of glass.
At this moment in time, I can’t think of anywhere in the world that I would rather be. It makes me glad that I decided to stay for two nights, long enough to fall into its rhythm of unhurried, wine-slow pleasure that allows me to tune into the rise and fall of the villages and rural life beyond the hotel’s borders.
The following morning, fortified by a few strong coffees and the rising sunlight, I set out to cycle the South Styrian Wine Road, the Südsteirische Weinstraße. It’s a route that loops through Austria’s southernmost vineyards for some 25 miles before brushing the Slovenian border. The road climbs and dips in steady undulations around the nearby hills, its bends revealing ever-wider views: vineyards cascading over the mounds, red-roofed farmhouses tucked into valleys, the occasional church bell marking the hours, which otherwise seem to pass by unnoticed.
Leaving Gamlitz, it’s a steep climb away from civilisation into greener pastures. The forests and fields are occasionally interrupted by a farm or a small hamlet, but it is never more than a cluster of houses lining the road, sometimes with the added distraction of a church or sprawling manor house.
Cycling here is an act of both exercise and meditation. The air carries the faint scent of the land, and the only soundtrack is a mix of birdsong, gusting wind, and the low hum of tractors working the harvest, somehow managing to navigate the steep slopes to pluck the grapes from their branches. You can just put your feet to the pedals and enjoy your surroundings.
Every few miles, a hand-painted sign announces another Buschenschank, the traditional wine taverns that form the social backbone of the region. Run by families who also tend the vines, these rustic inns open only when the winemaker feels ready, signalled by a bundle of twigs hanging over the door.
I stop at the first one that emerges on my horizon. By now, it is past midday, which seems like a more than reasonable time to sample the local produce. It’s a simple, unpretentious building, and we’re the only customers at this hour. A couple of glistening steel fermentation vessels stand against the wooden terrace where we relax with a glass of exceptional, terroir-driven Sauvignon Blanc, which is both elegant and piercing in its aromas.
I continue, a little more wobbly than before, along a route that carries me along tree-lined gravel paths and neat rows of vines, along ridgelines that offer glimpses of both Austria and Slovenia at once. It’s a border that feels more like a suggestion than an official line. Afterall, this is a shared vineyard.
There are a few more on the way; A small bar set within an Instagram-friendly shack on the cusp of a steep drop that draws visitors in with its expansive views, followed by a bustling tavern-style building packed with cyclists where the waiters and waitresses don;t speak a word of English.
I find myself pointing to meats, cheeses and drinks from the menu in broken, GCSE-level English, but I’m served exactly what I need to fuel the rest of my journey, where the views opening up before me are composed of shades of olive and chartreuse, and of trees woven in lines along the boundaries between the fields and countries. I can see the beautiful geometric shapes of plantations in strips and squares, each with its own shade, sloping at different angles towards the fading summer light.
By the time I coasted downhill back towards Ehrenhausen, through the dank hop fields that fuel Austria’s love of beer, the evening light had turned a syrupy, golden shade, and the Loisium’s glass façade was catching the last glow of the day. I rolled my bike to a stop and watched as the hills softened into dusk, their contours dissolving in wine-dark shadow.
Inside, the bar was already filling with my fellow guests. “It’s nice to see you again, Mr McClane”, says the bartender while handing me one last glass of Sauvignon Blanc. I take my now familiar seat on the terrace and raise my glass, which I toast to a corner of Austria that seems, somehow, to move at the same patient pace as the growing of grapes.
What is the South Styrian Wine Route?
Running for roughly 25km through Austria’s southernmost wine country, the Südsteirische Weinstraße (South Styrian Wine Route) is one of Europe’s most scenic drives, or better yet, cycle routes. First laid out in the 1950s as a way to promote regional wines, it meanders along the hilly border with Slovenia, where vineyards cling to steep slopes and every bend reveals another postcard-perfect panorama.
This is Austria’s white wine heartland. Around 90% of vineyards here grow white grapes, with Sauvignon Blanc the undisputed star. Thanks to the area’s patchwork of soils and microclimates, these wines range from crisp and mineral to complex and age-worthy. Other highlights include Muskateller, Morillon (Chardonnay), Welschriesling, and the earthy local speciality Schilcher rosé.
The route itself is a circular web of small roads that thread through villages such as Ehrenhausen, Gamlitz, and Leutschach. Along the way, you’ll find Buschenschank (rustic wine taverns) serving hearty cold platters as well as family-run guesthouses and high-end wineries with striking modern tasting rooms.
Unlike the famous wine roads of Tuscany or Bordeaux, South Styria still feels unspoiled. Tractors trundle between rows of vines, locals sip spritzers under chestnut trees, and many wineries are run by families who’ve been here for generations. Autumn is the busiest time, when harvest fills the air with the scent of crushed grapes, and taverns overflow with visitors.
Getting to South Styria
Although this corner of South Styria may feel a world away from the bustling streets of Vienna, reaching it is surprisingly straightforward. Whether you arrive by plane, train, or car, the journey south is part of the experience; a slow transition from Austria’s urban centres into a rolling countryside that unfolds before you, seemingly inviting you to stay a while and sample the region’s food and fine wine. By the time you reach your first vineyard terrace, glass in hand, you’ll already feel you’ve travelled far from the bustle of the nation’s capital.
Getting to Austria
Vienna International Airport (VIE) is the main entry point for most people. There are regular flights from major UK airports, and it is well connected to destinations across Europe, the Middle East, Asia and North America. From here, it’s around 2.5–3 hours south to the Styrian wine road, making Vienna the most practical gateway for international visitors.
A closer option is Graz Airport (GRZ), though much smaller. Flight options are few and far between, however, it puts you right on the doorstep of South Styria. Just a half-hour from Ehrenhausen, it’s served by regular flights from some major European hubs like Frankfurt, Munich, Zurich and Amsterdam. For those arriving from further afield, Vienna often makes more sense, but connecting through Graz delivers you straight into the vineyards.
Getting to South Styria from Vienna
For most people, their journey begins in Vienna, from where they will travel to South Styria via Graz.
By Train
Austria’s rail network is one of Europe’s finest. High-speed Railjet trains link Vienna with Graz in just 2.5 hours, gliding past Alpine foothills and wide valleys. From Salzburg, Innsbruck, or Linz, Graz is also easily reached, making it possible to tack South Styria onto a broader Austrian itinerary (I travelled from Lake Erlauf to the region via Graz and found it relatively easy).
By Car
Austria’s autobahns are fast and efficient. Driving from Vienna south to Graz on the A2 motorway takes about 2 hours, with another 30–40 minutes to the wine villages. For people planning to visit a remote Buschenschank or travel at their own pace, a rental car can be invaluable.
Getting to South Styria from Graz
Once in Graz, the region’s charming vineyards are just around the corner. The Styrian capital is only 50 kilometres north of the wine road, and there are several ways to make the short journey.
By Train
Trains run hourly from Graz Hauptbahnhof to Ehrenhausen, the gateway town to the South Styrian Wine Road. The journey takes about 45 minutes, weaving through forested hills and farmland before you’re dropped in the centre of wine country. Tickets are inexpensive, and bicycles are welcome on board for a small supplement, making this the ideal option for cyclists.
By Bike
For those with stamina and a taste for adventure, it’s even possible to cycle from Graz to Ehrenhausen. The route follows the Mur River before climbing into vineyard country, covering about 50km. It’s a long but manageable ride for experienced cyclists and a rewarding way to quite literally earn your first glass of Sauvignon Blanc.
From Slovenia
Because South Styria straddles the Austrian–Slovenian border, it’s easy to combine both countries in one trip.
From Maribor
Slovenia’s second-largest city lies just 30 minutes from Ehrenhausen by car. It’s possible to base yourself in Maribor and day-trip into the Styrian vineyards, or simply slip across the border for a few days of cycling and wine tasting.
By Train
Regional services connect Maribor with Graz, where you can change for Ehrenhausen. The trains are slower and less frequent than in Austria, but the route is scenic and makes for a leisurely cross-border journey.
By Bike
One of the joys of this border region is its permeability. The vineyards don’t end at the frontier and continue seamlessly into Slovenia, often tended by the same families across both sides. Cycling from Maribor into Austria is easy, with open borders and quiet rural lanes that give the sense of riding through one endless wine landscape.
Getting Around
Although getting to South Styria is relatively straightforward, the question becomes how best to move between the vineyards, villages, and taverns that dot the hillsides. This isn’t a region for rushing; it rewards those who take it slow and meander along winding lanes with time to stop wherever curiosity pulls them.
Public Transport
Public transport in South Styria is fairly limited. There are trains that connect Graz to Ehrenhausen and Spielfeld, but beyond that, villages rely on local buses that are infrequent and not designed for tourists hopping between wineries. It’s possible to use buses for short hops between towns if you time them well, but most visitors find them too irregular for day-to-day travel.
By Car
I made sure to rent a car for the majority of my stay in South Styria and found that it was an essential way to explore the region conveniently. It’s also handy to have a car if you want to combine South Styria with trips to Graz, Slovenia, or Austria’s spa region. Roads are smooth, parking is easy, and generally, distances are short; to travel between Ehrenhausen and Leutschach, it’s only around 25 km.
The advantage of having a hire car is that you will be able to make your itinerary flexible and have quick access to remote wineries. The only problem is that someone in your group has to stay sober if you’re wine tasting, and you lose some of the slow-travel charm that comes with cycling or walking.
I picked up my rental car at Vienna airport and used it to explore quite a wide swath of Austria. It was an easy collection and drop-off process. However, there are also a good number of car rental companies operating out of Graz. I tend to use Discover Cars for my car rental when travelling, as they allow you to book in advance and compare multiple providers for the best deal.
By Taxi or Wine Shuttle
For travellers who want to sample wines freely without worrying about driving, taxis and shuttles are invaluable. Local taxi firms operate between towns and wineries, though it’s best to book in advance as availability can be limited (your hotel should be able to do this for you), especially during harvest season.
Some wine hotels and guesthouses organise wine shuttles. These are minibus services that take you between Buschenschank or tasting rooms. It’s a sociable option, often shared with other guests, and removes any logistical stress.
Hiking
While distances between villages are a little too far to walk comfortably in a single day, shorter hikes are a wonderful way to appreciate the landscape.
Many wineries maintain signposted walking trails and vineyard walks that weave through their fields, often with benches and viewpoints overlooking the valleys. The Styrian tourist office promotes several well-marked circular hiking loops, typically 8–15 km, which start and end in wine villages. These let you combine gentle exercise with stops for tastings or hearty Styrian meals along the way.
Cycling
Cycling is, without question, the most immersive way to explore South Styria. The Südsteirische Weinstraße was practically designed for two wheels, with ribbons of road threading through vine-covered ridges, with small detours leading to family-run wineries and shaded taverns.
Conventional bikes are a great option for experienced cyclists who enjoy climbs and descents. Expect rolling terrain with a mix of short, steep hills and sweeping downhill runs. Although some of the steeper climbs can be exhausting, distances between villages are manageable.
For people who don’t cycle often, e-bikes have made the route incredibly accessible. The steepest hills suddenly feel effortless, and you can cover more ground without wearing yourself out. Nearly every bike rental shop in Ehrenhausen, Gamlitz and Leutschach offers e-bikes, and many hotels arrange rentals for guests. I was able to rent a couple of e-bikes from my hotel, which set us back €50 for the full day (8am – 8pm). In this time, we were able to cycle the entire route.
While the main wine road is the most famous, countless side routes loop around different parts of Styria or cross the border into Slovenia. Most are well signposted, and tourist offices hand out free cycling maps.
Where to Stay in South Styria
One of the best things about staying in this part of South Styria is that there is a wide range of diverse accommodation types that fit any kind of travel style – from basic apartment rentals and rustic vineyard stays to design-led hotels right in the heart of the countryside. Where you stay often becomes part of the experience. Whether you’re waking up to sunrise over the vineyards from a boutique wine hotel, lingering over breakfast in a Weingut guesthouse, or winding down after a day of cycling in a farmhouse garden, accommodation here is as much about immersing yourself in the local culture as it is just a place to stay.
Luxury & Design Hotels
If indulgence is the goal, there are a handful of stylish hotels that pair vineyard views with spa facilities, wine tastings and fine dining.
Loisium Wine & Spa Hotel Südsteiermark (Ehrenhausen) – Sleek, modern, and architecturally striking, Loisium is the region’s flagship design hotel. Rooms look directly onto the surrounding vineyards, the spa features saunas and both indoor and outdoor infinity pools, the outdoor one in particular has striking views of the countryside. There is also a beautiful on-site wine centre that hosts tastings and events. Perfect for travellers who want luxury woven into their wine experience.
Boutiquehotel Das Zeitwert (Bad Schwanberg / Hollenegg) – Amongst the vineyards near the fairytale towers of Schloss Hollenegg, Boutiquehotel Das Zeitwert has a philosophy snatched straight from Morrisey’s lyric sheets: that “every day is like Sunday”. In contrast to the former Smith’s frontmans intentions with his song, this just means that a relaxed atmosphere runs through everything, from the serene infinity pool that gazes out over rolling hills, to the panoramic sauna and quiet reading rooms where floor-to-ceiling windows that frame the landscape.
Rooms are contemporary yet warm, with natural tones, clean lines and private balconies that invite you to linger over a glass of local Sauvignon Blanc at sunset. The in-house restaurant, Koarl, celebrates Styrian flavours with a modern twist, serving dishes rooted in the region’s produce but elevated with global influences, while the terrace is the perfect spot for long, wine-soaked brunches or slow sunset dinners.
Winery Guesthouses (Weingut Zimmer)
For many people, the most authentic stay in the region comes from sleeping right among the vines. Many wineries (Weingüter) offer a handful of guestrooms, often with a rustic feel, decorated simply but warmly, with hearty Styrian meals included.
Weingut Dreisiebner Stammhaus (Gamlitz) – One of the most picturesque winery stays, perched on a hill with sweeping views of vineyards in every direction. Rooms are simple but comfortable, and the on-site Buschenschank serves their wines alongside regional platters.
Weingut Schauer (Kitzeck im Sausal) – Perched high in the steep vineyards of the Sausal, Weingut Schauer is a family-run estate that offers a handful of peaceful rooms overlooking terraced vines and forested valleys, designed simply but with all the comforts needed after a day on the wine route. In the evenings, the estate’s Buschenschank fills with the scent of smoked meats, pumpkin seed oil and fresh bread, served alongside their crisp Sauvignon Blancs and mineral-rich Rieslings. Staying here feels authentic, and deeply rooted in South Styria’s character.
Weingut Sattlerhof (Gamlitz, Sernauberg) – If Schauer embodies rustic authenticity, Sattlerhof brings refinement without losing the vineyard setting. On the rolling Sernauberg hills, this winery doubles as a boutique Genießerhotel where rooms are styled with natural wood, soft colours and sweeping views of the vines. Days here slip easily from vineyard walks to the solar-heated pool, or from a glass of Sauvignon Blanc on your terrace to a restorative sauna session. The restaurant appears to be a destination in its own right, serving elegant, seasonal dishes that elevate Styrian flavours and pair perfectly with the estate’s celebrated wines
Weingut Tement (Berghausen, near Ehrenhausen) – A renowned family winery offering elegant guestrooms that combine rustic wood with contemporary design. Guests can enjoy tastings, vineyard tours, and dinners paired with their award-winning Sauvignon Blancs.
Rustic Farm Stays
For a slower, more down-to-earth experience, family-run farmhouses provide warm hospitality, home cooking, and the chance to feel part of the local culture.
Winzerhof Strablegg-Leitner (Leutschach) – A cosy farmhouse with friendly hosts who happily share wine, schnapps, and great conversation. Rooms are simple, but waking up to the smell of homemade bread and coffee is part of the charm.
Tips for booking Accommodation
- September and October, during the harvest season, are especially busy, so book early. Many places close or operate shorter seasons in winter (November–March).
- Larger hotels like Loisium or Wiesenhof often arrange taxi pick-ups or shuttle services, while smaller guesthouses may expect you to arrive by car or bike.
- Most guesthouses serve breakfast, but only some have evening dining. It’s common to eat at nearby Buschenschank for dinners.
When is the Best Time to Visit?
South Styria is a year-round destination as each season casts the region in a different light. In spring (April to June), the vineyards burst into life, with blossom and fresh greenery across the hills. It’s quieter than autumn, perfect for cycling in mild weather, and many wineries release their new vintage around this time.
Summer (July & August) brings warmth and long evenings. The countryside is lush, tavern terraces are lively, and local festivals fill the calendar, though some wineries close briefly for harvest preparation.
Autumn (September–October) is when the region truly shines. This is the highlight of the year. Harvest brings the vines into golden splendour, Buschenschank taverns overflow with Sturm (partially fermented grape juice) and chestnuts, and the hills are alive with cyclists and walkers. It’s the busiest season, so book accommodation well in advance.
Winter (November–March): A quieter, contemplative time. Many guesthouses and taverns close, but those that remain open offer cosy evenings by the fire, hearty Styrian food, and empty roads for bracing walks. Graz and the nearby thermal spas make excellent winter side trips.
Highlights along the Wine Route
The Südsteirische Weinstraße is not just a road; it’s a meandering ribbon that winds through some of Austria’s most picturesque countryside and villages. Each turn reveals another cluster of vines, another tavern terrace, and another horizon framed by rolling hills. Stretching for roughly 25 km between Ehrenhausen and Leutschach, it threads along the Slovenian border, dipping into valleys and climbing ridges so steep they seem almost sculpted for vines.
Here are some of the stops and scenes that make this road so unforgettable:
Ehrenhausen
I chose to base myself in Ehrenhausen during my time in South Styria, and it was the ideal base for exploring the wider area. The gateway to the wine route, Ehrenhausen is a charming market town where cobbled streets lead up to the grand Ehrenhausen Castle and an imposing mausoleum, perched on a wooded hill overlooking the buildings below.
It’s quaint, picturesque, and the town’s central square sets the tone for the journey ahead: café terraces spilling into the street, small wine shops, and an easygoing vibe that invites you to linger over your first glass of Sauvignon Blanc. From here, the road quickly lifts into the vineyards, giving you a taste of the landscapes that define the route.
Gamlitz
Often called the heart of the South Styrian wine region, Gamlitz is surrounded by some of its most famous vineyards. It’s also one of the busiest and liveliest towns along the route, with a wealth of tasting rooms, Buschenschank taverns, and guesthouses. The town hosts wine festivals throughout the year, celebrating everything from harvest season to the release of the year’s Sturm. A detour to the Gamlitz Motorikpark, Europe’s largest outdoor fitness and play park, makes for a quirky stop if you’re travelling with kids (or simply want to stretch out after a wine-soaked lunch). It also has all the amenities you will need to keep you fully stocked up during your stay, such as a couple of supermarkets.
Leutschach an der Weinstraße
At the far end of the route, Leutschach is considered Austria’s largest wine-growing community. The surrounding hills are a patchwork of vines producing some of the region’s most distinctive bottles, particularly Sauvignon Blancs that carry the cool freshness of Styrian nights. The town itself has a welcoming, small-town feel, with bakeries, wine shops, and shaded squares where cyclists pause for coffee before heading further into the hills. From Leutschach, it’s also easy to dip across the border into Slovenia, where the rolling hills continue but the wine styles take on a different character.
Kitzeck im Sausal
Although slightly off the main wine road, Kitzeck deserves special mention as the highest wine village in Europe, perched at 564 metres. Here, the vineyards are breathtakingly steep, clinging to slate-rich slopes that produce some of South Styria’s most mineral-driven wines. The views alone justify the climb: on clear days, you can see across the valleys all the way into Slovenia and even as far as Hungary. Kitzeck’s small church, with its simple steeple framed by vines, is one of the most photographed spots in the region. It’s also home to the Styrian Wine Museum, which offers insight into the centuries-old traditions that still shape winemaking here.
Buschenschank Taverns
More than just pit stops, Buschenschank are the soul of the South Styrian wine route and, in my opinion, the main reason to cycle this region. These traditional, usually family-run taverns are licensed to serve only their own wines, often accompanied by cold platters of local produce.
This could be anything from smoked meats, cheeses, and pickled vegetables to the ever-present Styrian pumpkin seed oil. Part of the joy of cycling the wine road is stumbling upon one of these taverns at the crest of a hill, when you’re exhausted, and where wooden tables under chestnut trees invite you to take a rest and enjoy a glass of wine. Each Buschenschank has its own character: some rustic and intimate, others a little more luxurious, with panoramic terraces looking across golden hills.
The Slovenian Border
One of the route’s most unique charms is how it hugs the Slovenian border, often weaving so close that a vineyard on one slope is Austrian and the next belongs to Slovenia. At several points, the road crests a ridge and reveals a sweeping view into both countries at once. It’s a reminder that this landscape, though divided by lines on a map, is bound together by shared traditions of wine, food, and hospitality, with the boundaries being completely unpercievable.
Where to Stop for Wine and Food
The joy of the South Styrian Wine Road lies not only in its landscapes but in the tables that line the way. Here, wine and food are inseparable: Buschenschank taverns offer their own wines alongside hearty cold platters, while restaurants reinterpret regional flavours with finesse.
The area has a lot of both to choose from, and it can be a difficult task to discern which restaurants and taverns are worth your time or money. Luckily, I had a local friend, born and raised in nearby Graz, to suggest some of their favourite dining (and drinking) spots.
Here are some of the most memorable spots along the way:
Buschenschank Dreisiebner Stammhaus (Sulztal)
A classic stop on the wine road, Dreisiebner Stammhaus pairs extensive vineyard views with generous Buschenschank platters. Expect smoky ham, tangy cheeses, sausages, and beetle bean salad with pumpkin seed oil, best enjoyed with a glass of their crisp Sauvignon Blanc on the terrace as the sun sinks behind the hills. Staying overnight in their guesthouse means you can linger without glancing at your watch.
Where: Sulztal an der Weinstraße 35, 8461 Sulztal
When: Thursday to Tuesday 1pm – 10pm
Weingut Tement (Berghausen)
A destination for serious wine lovers, from its position around 500 meters above sea level, Tement is known for producing some of Austria’s most expressive Sauvignon Blancs. The glass-fronted tasting room feels as refined as the wines themselves, while the food pairings are elegant and focused: breads, cheeses, and small bites designed to showcase the wines rather than compete with them.
Sauvignon Blanc dominates the house style (forming roughly 60% of the winery’s production), but their Morillon (Chardonnay), Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Gelber Muskateller and Welschriesling shouldn’t be overlooked. Their signature wines are the Zieregg Sauvignon Blanc Große STK Lage, electrifying with lime, stony minerality, lemon balm and salt-lemon notes; or the “Kalk & Kreide” Sauvignon Blanc, bright and citrus-driven with herbs and a mineral backbone. They’re served in glasses large enough to let aromas breathe, and best paired simply: with a creamy cheese, fresh herbs, or local white fish.
Where: Zieregg 13, 8461 Berghausen
When: Monday to Saturday 10am – 5pm
Weingut Sattlerhof (Gamlitz)
Sattlerhof blurs the line between winery, guesthouse, and gourmet destination. Its Buschenschank offers a refined take on Styrian tradition: pumpkin seed pâté, Liptauer spreads, local cheeses and hearty farmhouse bread, all washed down with their acclaimed Sauvignon Blanc and Morillon. The restaurant, meanwhile, takes a more elevated approach to seasonal Styrian cuisine, perfect for those who want a fine-dining experience without leaving the vineyards behind.
Where: Sernau 2a, 8462 Gamlitz
When: The winrey is open Monday to Saturday 10am – 6pm; The gourmet restaurant is open Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday & Saturday from 6pm (kitchen open until 9pm). Opening times differ during the winter months so always check before visiting
Weingut Schauer (Kitzeck im Sausal)
High in the Sausal hills, Schauer’s Buschenschank is famed for its hearty Styrian spreads: sausages and salads of Käferbohnen (the region’s beloved purple-speckled beans), while the steep vineyards outside supply wines that are mineral-driven and fresh. Sitting on their terrace with a glass of Riesling is one of the wine road’s most authentic pleasures.
Where: Greith 21, 8442 Kitzeck im Sausal
When: Monday & Tuesday 10am – 10pm; Wednesday & Thursday 10am – 5pm; Friday & Saturday 10am – 10pm; Sunday 10am – 1pm
Weingut Gross (Ehrenhausen)
Striking out from the winding lanes of the Südsteirische Weinstraße, the vineyard terraces of Weingut Gross are perched on the steep slopes of Ratscher Nussberg, one of South Styria’s most celebrated viticultural sites. The Gross family, now in its sixth generation under Martina and Johannes Gross, cultivates these steep blocks with a combination of respect for the terroir.
Visiting Gross is a sensory affair. The tasting room and panorama terrace offer a beautiful glimpse of the neighbouring vineyards, across to Slovenia, especially in spring and autumn when the light is golden and the air crisp. Whether you drop in for a casual tasting (open during regular hours) or arrange a guided tour through the vineyards, the cellar, even the family archives, there’s an intimate feel and you’ll have the opportunity to taste wines like Sauvignon Blanc, Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Gelber Muskateller, and some rarer varietals, all shaped by the steepness of slopes and the cooling night air.
Where: Ratsch 26, 8461 Ehrenhausen
When: Monday & Tuesday 10am – 6pm; Thursday to Saturday 10am – 6pm; Sunday 10am – 1pm
Buschenschank Tscheppe-Kapun (Leutschach)
Tscheppe-Kapun is a family-run winery and Buschenschank, in the hills of Grubtal near Gamlitz. Over generations, it’s a place that has nurtured vines and the simple joys of good wine and honest food. As you crest the gravel road, terraces spill into the foreground, and the wooden tables of the Buschenschank terrace promise shade, sun, and an inviting view of the Styrian hills.
Stepping inside, can see what makes Tscheppe-Kapun so popular. The décor is warm and, with solid wood furniture, sun-lit windows, and little touches of homely comfort everywhere. The food is regional, homemade, unpretentious and rich in character: cold platters of Brettljause stacked with cured meats, slices of farmhouse cheese, hearty bread, and salads dressed with pumpkin seed oil. One signature is the Rindfleisch-Kernölsalat, tender beef with a pumpkin seed oil dressing, which captures in one dish what the region does best.
The terrace overlooks vineyards and distant ridgelines, while the inside is cosy for cooler evenings. There are five double rooms on the property, furnished with solid wood beds and modern accents, all with bathrooms and many with balconies. In the garden, children have space to play, and adults have space to relax.
Where: Fötschach 127, 8463 Leutschach
When: Wednesday to Saturday 2pm – 10pm; Sunday 2pm – 8pm
Die fabelhafte Welt von Lilli & Jojo (Gamlitz)
On a sun-drenched terrace in Sulztal, just above the vine-lined slopes of Gamlitz, Die fabelhafte Welt von LILLI & JOJO is renowned for its warm hospitality and inventive cuisine. While for many, it is the landscape that draws them here – rolling hills and glimpses of Slovenia in the distance – the food is just as attractive as the view.
Behind the kitchen is Joachim Gradwohl, once cooking in some of Vienna’s finest kitchens, now returning to his roots by letting local produce, regional tradition, and seasonal change lead the menu. Alongside is Lilli Kollar, who tends to guests with genuine friendliness. Together, the two of them have created a restaurant that feels personal yet elegant. The menu changes with the seasons but often includes dishes like Gnocchi with Styrian Salsiccia, delicate fish (such as Waller) with subtle garnishes like kohlrabi, or even something as refined as chicken liver parfait.
Service here is polished but unforced. The wine list is comprehensive: wines from local vintners and selections that match the regional flavours rather than overpower them. The terrace is a real highlight, allowing you to dine under wide skies and with broad vistas. Whether you reserve a three-course feast from the regular menu, opt for the surprise tasting, or simply stop by for wine and a small plate, LILLI & JOJO offers an ideal stopping point on the wine route for you to rest your legs and enjoy a good meal.
Where: Sulztal an der Weinstraße 22, 8461 Gamlitz
When: Friday & Saturday 3pm – 10pm; Sunday & Monday 12pm – 10pm;
Gasthaus Restaurant Thaller (Veit am Vogau)
Opposite the elegant parish church, in the quiet market square of St. Veit am Vogau, Thaller is one of those rare places that feels traditionally Austrian but with a hint of quiet modernity. Since 1882 the Thaller family has run this house with a deep respect for its sense of place: its soils, its produce, and South Styria in general. Old wooden beams, the gentle hiss from the kitchen’s wood-fired stove, and friendly greetings from hosts who know their regulars by name all add to the experience.
During the day, the Gasthaus side of Thaller offers a more rustic, home-style experience. Here you might enjoy a midday plate of potato gnocchi, chanterelles foraged nearby, or even grilled trout from their own pond, all accompanied by a local white or the house pick of the day. The menu changes with the seasons, and many ingredients come directly from their garden or neighbouring farms. In summer, tables under trees or in the courtyard garden invite you to lingerie the sun for a little longer
Come evening, Thaller shifts into its more refined restaurant mode. Chef Norbert Thaller crafts a multi-course kitchen magic (“Küchenzauber”) that balances regional plates with creative finesse. Menus of five or seven courses showcase the best of Styria: smoked meats, wild mushrooms, Straden truffles when in season, apples and herbs from the orchard, fish from the pond, and sometimes richly prepared game. The plating is elegant without fuss, honouring terroir and technique equally.
Where: Am Kirchpl. 4, 8423 St. Veit am Vogau, Austria
When: Thursday to Saturday 12pm – 3pm & 6.30pm – 11pm; Sunday 10am – 5pm; Monday 12pm – 3pm & 6.30pm – 11pm
Local Specialities to Try
- Pumpkin Seed Oil (Kernöl) – The green, nutty “Styrian gold,” drizzled on everything from salads to ice cream.
- Steirische Käferbohnen (Styrian beetle beans) – Purple-speckled beans, often tossed with onion and pumpkin seed oil.
- Brettljause – Wooden boards piled high with smoked meats, cheeses, spreads and pickles.
- Sturm – A cloudy, lightly fermented grape juice, available only in autumn, traditionally paired with roasted chestnuts.
Practical Tips for Cycling the Wine Route
Cycling the Südsteirische Weinstraße is one of the most rewarding ways to experience South Styria, but it’s not a flat cruise. With climbs that sneak up on you and descents that demand both skill and a good set of brakes, a little preparation goes a long way. Here are some tips to keep the ride enjoyable rather than exhausting:
Choosing Your Bike
The wine road is beautiful but challenging. Expect steep climbs followed by fast descents, narrow lanes through villages, and the occasional gravel track leading to a remote tavern. Unless you’re a confident road cyclist, an e-bike is the best choice: it flattens the climbs without taking away the joy of riding. Most rental shops in Graz, Ehrenhausen, or Gamlitz offer high-quality e-bikes and regular touring bikes, often with panniers if you want to carry wine or picnic supplies.
Where to Rent
Bike rentals are available in Graz (ideal if you’re arriving by train or plane and want to begin your journey there) as well as in key wine-road towns like Ehrenhausen, Gamlitz, and Leutschach. Many hotels and guesthouses, particularly the more upmarket ones, have their own fleets of e-bikes available for guests. Some wineries and taverns also partner with local providers, making it possible to arrange a bike directly at your accommodation.
Plan Ahead
The Südsteirische Weinstraße winds through about 25 km of vineyard-covered hills, but there are dozens of side routes and loops that branch off, offering quieter roads and fresh perspectives. Signposting is generally excellent, with green wine-road signs marking the way. A map or GPS app is still useful, especially if you want to venture beyond the main road to reach smaller Buschenschank taverns. Allow more time than you think you’ll need: the ride is less about covering distance and more about stopping, sipping, and soaking in the views.
With wineries, taverns, and viewpoints every few kilometres, it’s easy to underestimate how much time you’ll spend off the bike. A single afternoon can easily turn into a full-day ride, especially if you linger over lunch or enjoy a second glass of Sauvignon Blanc on a sunny terrace. Build in plenty of stops, and resist the urge to pack too much into one day. Two to three winery visits or Buschenschank meals are usually the sweet spot.
Many of the most famous Buschenschank taverns and wineries require reservations, especially in September and October. Even if you prefer to cycle spontaneously, it’s worth booking at least one sit-down lunch or dinner to ensure you don’t miss out on the full experience. Smaller, family-run spots may also close on certain weekdays, so check ahead if you have a particular stop in mind.
With that in mind, I would recommend staying overnight at some point along the wine road. This means that you can enjoy the landscape at golden hour, drink without worry, and experience taverns once day-trippers have gone home. Many guesthouses and wineries offer bike storage, and some provide transfers if you’d rather cycle one-way.
Most importantly, bring cash. While larger wineries and hotels take cards, many family-run Buschenschank operate on a cash-only basis. ATMs are sparse along the route, so stock up before setting out.
Suggested Cycling Itinerary
As I’ve already mentioned a few times in this post, South Styria’s wine road is best savoured slowly. Although I traversed the entire route in a day, this is generally not a route to conquer in one exhausting push, but instead, you need to take your time to really take in the scenic countryside and as many fantastic wineries as possible. Below is a suggested two-day itinerary that balances vineyard visits, hearty meals, and unhurried pedalling.
Day 1: Ehrenhausen → Gamlitz → Leutschach
Distance: 20–25 km (with detours)
Pace: Gentle, with plenty of stops
Begin your journey in Ehrenhausen, the traditional gateway to the Südsteirische Weinstraße. If you’ve stayed the night here, linger over a Styrian breakfast of farmhouse bread, cheeses, and cured meats before collecting your rental bike or e-bike.
From Ehrenhausen, pedal southwards. Almost immediately, you’re climbing into vine-covered hills, with the castle ruins of Ehrenhausen behind you. The road winds gently through orchards and vineyards until you quickly reach Gamlitz, one of the region’s liveliest wine towns. Here, consider a morning stop at Weingut Sattlerhof: the tasting room and terrace overlook rolling green slopes. The estate’s restaurant probably won’t be open at this point, but it is worth making a note of it for later, as they are known to elevate local produce into delicate, wine-led dishes. It’s the perfect spot for a mid-morning pause, even if only for a small glass and some bread.
From Gamlitz, continue along narrow lanes that dip and climb between vineyards. Stop for lunch at Die fabelhafte Welt von Lilli & Jojo, where chef Joachim Gradwohl brings finesse to Styrian classics. The terrace views stretch for miles, and the food is seasonal and inventive. It will provide you with a full stomach and some energy for the afternoon’s ride.
The next stretch towards Leutschach is one of the most scenic: curving roads cresting hilltops, with Slovenia visible across the border. Pause at Weingut Schauer, a family-run estate where tastings feel personal and relaxed. Their Sauvignon Blancs are particularly expressive of South Styria’s terroir.
Roll into Leutschach by late afternoon, a village surrounded by vineyards and chestnut groves. Here, you might choose to stay at a winery guesthouse or cosy inn. Dinner could be at Gasthaus Restaurant Thaller, where seasonal menus celebrate regional ingredients, accompanied, of course, by a carefully chosen wine list.
Day 2: Leutschach → Glanz an der Weinstraße → Ehrenhausen
Distance: 20–25 km (with detours)
Pace: Easy-going with scenic pauses
After breakfast, head west from Leutschach towards Glanz an der Weinstraße, one of the most photogenic sections of the route. The road here runs parallel to the border, dipping close to Slovenia before winding back into Austria, with vineyards carpeting every hillside. Stop at Buschenschank Tscheppe-Kapun, a rustic family-run tavern where simple platters of cold cuts, cheeses, and beetle bean salad taste all the better for being eaten on a sunlit terrace.
Continue north, winding past hamlets and panoramic viewpoints, until you reach Weingut Gross. This historic estate is renowned for its elegant wines, particularly Sauvignon Blanc and Morillon (Chardonnay), and its tasting room is set against a backdrop of vines that seem to spill endlessly across the hills. A stop here offers not only exceptional wines but also an immersion into the history of winemaking in the region.
By early afternoon, make your way towards Weingut Tement, another iconic estate perched on a ridge with commanding views. Here, modern architecture meets traditional viticulture, and tastings feel refined. If you’ve planned ahead and booked a table, enjoy a light lunch here, pairing crisp whites with Styrian specialities.
The final stretch carries you gently downhill, vineyards on either side, back towards Ehrenhausen, where the route began. Pause for a final glass of Welschriesling or Muskateller in a local Buschenschank before returning your bike and toasting the journey.
Alternative Option: Make it 3 Days
If time allows, stretch the itinerary to three days, breaking up the ride into shorter distances and adding more winery stops. An overnight stay in Gamlitz would allow for a slower pace and a chance to explore its wine museum, lake, and nearby taverns.
