Sagres: A Guide to the Algarve’s Laid Back Surfing Town

Once thought to be the very edge of the world, the clifftop town of Sagres sits at Europe's most southwesterly point. While its past is filled with tales of adventurous sailors and explorers, it is now known as one of the best surfing spots in Portugal.
There certainly is an end of the world feel to Sagres. Windswept and shaped by the rough Atlantic tides, the land on which this small coastal village sits is sparse and scrubby, its dramatic cliffs met by frothing ocean and gusts whipping in from beyond the shore. That isn’t to say that there’s not a mysterious beauty to the area. The town’s dramatic position at Europe’s most southwesterly point has drawn people here for centuries. The Moors and Romans both used the area as a place of worship, the latter naming it Promontorium, the ‘sacred headland’, and in the 15th century, Sagres was the centre of Portugal’s age of discovery.

It is here that Henry the Navigator is believed to have set up his school of navigation (a statue of him stands pround in the main square) and is the point from which explorers set out to colonise the Azores and Madeira. Later, following Henry’s death in 1460, alumni from the school of navigation went on to become some of Portugal’s most famed navigators, such as Pedro Álvares Cabral and Ferdinand Magellan. Unfortunately, Sagres became less and less important as Lisbon became the nation’s main departure point.

Thankfully, Sagre’s fortunes turned around in the 1960s thanks to tourism and the seemingly endless waves that entice surfers and water sports enthusiasts from all over the world. In turn this has led to an explosion in the number of hostels, surf schools and relaxed cafes that occupy this otherwise rather nondescript town. Thankfully, Sagre’s fortunes turned around in the 1960s thanks to tourism and the seemingly endless waves that entice surfers and water sports enthusiasts from all over the world. In turn this has led to an explosion in the number of hostels, surf schools and relaxed cafes that occupy this otherwise rather nondescript town. Sagres may not have much to offer the casual tourist, but you are certain to find some appeal in the stunningly beautiful beaches and some of the most extraordinary scenery that the Algarve has to offer. 

A sign in Sagres pointing to the fort
Boats in the Harbour of Sagres, Portugal

How to Get to Sagres

Sagres sits at the very southwestern tip of Portugal and as such, isn’t the easiest of destinations to reach. The nearest airport is Faro, 113 km east and 1 hour 25 minutes away by car. Driving is the most convenient way to travel around the Algarve, especially if you are looking to explore some of the more remote areas not accessible by the region’s (relatively extensive) public transport network.

The quickest route is via the A22 Algarve Highway but you should be aware that this road does have an electronic tolling system. Taking the N125 any toll booths but does add another 45 minutes to the journey.

If you are attempting to visit Sagres by public transport from anywhere in the Algarve, it is best to first travel to Lagos where you will be able to catch a direct bus (number 47). Both buses and trains between Lagos and Faro leave hourly and take around an hour and a half.

VISITING SAGRES ON A DAY TRIP

Most people passing through Sagres visit on a day trip from Lagos. This is easy enoight to do via public transport as the number 47 bus travels between Av. dos Descobrimentos in Lagos and Sagres main square almost hourly during the summer months. However, be aware that that the last bus between the two towns is usually around 6 or 7pm. The journey takes approximately one hour each way.

Getting Around Sagres

Sagres itself is relatively compact and all of the sights with the town can be reached easily on foot. If you are looking to explore the wider area, it is highly recommended that you choose to rent a car. 

If you are hoping to visit Cabo de São Vicente, the number 47 bus does travel between Sagres and the lighthouse (with a stop at Praia do Beliche), but only 3 times a day at 11.04am, 2.51pm, and 4.04pm.

Where to Stay in Sagres

Sagres doesn’t have the same breadth of hotel choice as some of the Algarve’s more popular resort centres, with the selection focusing more on the younger crowd that flock here to surf. However, there are a couple of family-friendly hotels and a good number of small guesthouses dotted around the town.

Design Hotel

Memmo Baleeira

Sitting on a clifftop high above the fishing port of Baleeira, the stylish Memmo Baleeira design hotel is one of Sagres’ best. Many of the 144 minimality styed rooms offer unrivaled views of the area’s rugged and rocky coastline while the outdoor pool and spa are great places to unwind after a day of surfing.

GuestHouse

LemonTree Eco Surfhouse

Bringing a bit of boho-chic to Sagres, the LemonTree Eco Surfhouse is a cute, little 3-room B&B catering to surfers and outdoor enthusiasts. Their eco-friendly credentials are an added bonus.

Hostel

Sagres Sun Stay

The perfect spot for surfers looking to mingle and meet like-minded people, this cool hostel features a fantastic outdoor swimming pool, terrace, and bar as well as offering surf lessons to beginners. Both dormitories and private rooms are available.

The Best Things to do in Sagres

Most people make the way to Sagres for surfing and beaches, but this unassuming area of the Algarve has plenty of history to explore, especially as it was pivotal in Portugal becoming a wealthy seafaring nation of centuries past.

Fortaleza de Sagres

Guarding the entrance to the barren Ponta de Sagres, this 17th century fortress is thought to be on the spot in which Henry the Navigator established his navigation school in the 15th century when dreaming of heading out to sea to explore the unknown reaches of the Atlantic.
The yellow outer walls for Fortazela de Sagres in Sagres, Portugal
The nautical connection is further cemented by the presence of the rosa dos ventos, the wind rose compass, that sites inside the gates and measures an enormous 43m in diameter, marked out with rocks. The compass was unearthed in 1928 and although its use remains a mystery, it is possible that it dates back to Henry’s time where it was either used as some kind of sundail or the pictural representation of a compass. The vast site within the yellow outer wall is rather sparse but a walk around the outer edge of the peninsular offers fantastic views of the coastline with the occasional notice board giving you information about the area’s diverse flora and fauna.

Some buildings do remain though, despite many of the 17th and 18th century ruins being cleared during the 1960s. Most notable of them is the Nossa da Graca church, a 16th century chapel that contains a beautifully guilded altarpiece.

The site is open daily from 9.30am to 5.30pm and entry costs €3.

Lighthouse of Cabo de São Vicente

What was thought to be the end of the world until the 14th century, the most southwesterly point of continental Europe is marked by a beautiful lighthouse that sits atop the rugged 230ft tall cliffs. Built in 1846, it is said that its 3000-Watt lamps are visible from 90 Km away, making it the most powerful lighthouse in Europe.

The cape itself lies 6km north of Sagres and was one of the last pieces of land that Portuguese sailors would see before heading into the unknown Atlantic. However, the area has been revered for millennia, with the Roman’s referring to it as Promontorium Sacrum and its modern name comes from a Spanish priest that was martyred by the very same Romans.

Nowadays, it is one of the most visited places in the Algarve and the lighthouse complex contains a shop, café and small museum (€1.50 admission). It is worth noting that one of the food stands here is of particular interest to German tourists as it sells traditional Bratwurst imported all the way from Germany that is served with a certificate stating that it is the last bratwurst to be found before reaching the Atlantic.

If you want to look inside the lighthouse, it is open on Wednesday afternoons between 2pm and 5pm. Entry is free of charge and the lighthouse keeper will give a guided tour to any visitors that wish to see it.

Porto da Baleeira

Sheltered beneath the cliffs on the eastern side of Sagres you will find Porto Da Baleeira, a working harbour where some Algarvios still make a living from the sea. This isn’t an area tidied up for tourists and is an intriguing glimpse into local life that you don’t always see in the region’s more popular tourist hotspots.

The best time to visit is in the afternoon when the boats slowly start to make their way back to the harbour laden with the day’s catch. Make sure to visit the bustling fish auction that takes place here from 3pm each weekday. It has a reputation of being one of the best in Europe and people come from all around to bid on the crates of seafood as they are unloaded. For the best view, head up to the small restaurant that overlooks the auction hall and watch through the floor to ceiling windows while enjoying a glass of beer or local wine.

a fisherman unwinding tangled fishing line in Porto da Baleeira, Sagres
the harbour at Porto da baleeira, Sagres

Hike a section of The Fishermen's Trail

The Rota Vicentina is a long-distance path along the Southwestern coast of Portugal, between the city of Santiago do Cacém and the Cape of St. Vincent, in Sagres, before heading east along the southern shoreline towards Lagos. The entire trail covers more than 340 km of one of the most beautiful and best-preserved coastlines of southern Europe.

It is split into two differing itineraries, the Historical Way and the Fisherman’s trail. The historical way totals 263km and runs through the main towns and villages of the west coast, giving you a great insight into the rural history of the area. The Fisherman’s trail on the other hand clings to the coastline for 226km, following the routes used by the locals to access the beaches and fishing grounds.

While completing the entire trail is a huge undertaking, each path is split into 13 smaller sections, meaning it is easy enough to join the route at any point and complete portions of it as you choose, such as the area between Sagres and Lagos.

If you choose to hike the coastline, it is worth stopping off at Reserva Biogenetica de Sagres, a protected nature reserve that sits between Fortaleza de Sagres and the Cabo Sao Vicente. Showcasing the vast array of the Algarve’s varying coastal habitats – from dunes and cliff faces to marshes and lagoons – this is a paradise for both naturalists and birdwatchers. The best time to visit is in the Autumn, when booted eagles, Egyptian vultures and honey buzzards all make this a stop on the migratory path.

Learn to Surf

The crashing Atlantic swells make Sagres a haven for Portugal’s surfers and this part of the Algarve has quickly earned a reputation as one of Europe’s best surfing destinations.

The variety of headlands means that some beaches and bays are much more sheltered than others, making surfing here accessible to all abilities. For instance, the coastline between Sagres and Lagos produces gentle waves ideal for beginners while the beaches north of Cabo de São Vicente can produce towering swells that are only for the most advanced of surfers. Praia do Amado even hosts a leg of the World Surfing Championship.

There are plenty of surf shops dotted around Sagres where you can rent boards and wetsuits, as well as surf schools offering one-off lessons and surf camps which bundle together equipment, accommodation and lessons in one package.

If riding the waves all day isn’t your idea of a good time, local agencies also offer kayak and coasteering excursions.

the beach in Sagres, portgual as seen from the fort

Where to Eat & Drink in Sagres

Like in much of Portugal, seafood is the star on most of the menus in Sagres with most restaurants boasting specials based on whatever the local fisherman have brought in that day. Even if fish isn’t your thing, you will find a good mix of quirky cafes, beach-front dining spots and delectable bakeries guaranteed to fill your stomach after a day of surfing the Atlantic waves. 
The interior of Bossa Brew House microbrewery and craft beer pub in Sagres, Portugal

Bossa Brew House

Although Sagres shares its name with a well-known brand of Portuguese beer, one of the nation’s most famous mass-produced lager is actually brewed almost 200km away in Lisbon. Fortunately the town of Sagres has something much better; a small-scale microbrewery in the form of Bossa Beer.

Here you can sit amongst the brew kit and fermentation vessels while sipping on flights of At Bossa Brew’s own selection as well as a range of beers from the best breweries in the Algarve. Expect live music every Thursday and a menu packed with meaty array of dishes from octopus carpaccio and juicy black angus steaks to pork cheeks in beer and fish & chips.

Where: Patio atras Dromedario Bar, R. José Luís
When: Mon to Sat 4pm – 11pm

Nortada Beach Bar

Set in a pretty blue beach hut Sitting just off the sands of Martinhal, Nortada is perfectly placed if you want to grab a bite to eat without having to leave the beach and traipse back into town. While the menu has all of the usual sandwiches and burgers that you would expect to find, I recommended opting for the grilled fish of the day.

Where: Martinhal Beach
When: Daily 12pm – 9.30pm

Three Little Birds

Offering a nice little garden hideaway and chilled vibe, Three Little Birds is one of the best breakfast spots in town but also has an extensive lunch and dinner menu featuring a hearty mix of burgers, burritos, quesadillas, and nachos that are bound to replenish those calories you’ve burned while riding the waves. The vegan/vegetarian selection is great, and they have an extensive list of cocktails and local craft beers.

Where: R. do Mercado
When: Thurs to Mon 9am – 11pm

A chef grilling lobster at A Sereia restaurant in Sagres, Portugal

A Sereia

A Sereia is a simple, no-frills seafood restaurant that sits above the auction hall on Baleeira’s harbourside. While it does have a nice outdoor terrace, the real joy comes from sitting inside next to the large glass windows and watching the lively auction (Mon – Fri 3pm) take place below.

As you can imagine, fish here doesn’t get much fresher than this. Just pick your fish from the chilled glass cabinet (sold by weight) so that it can be whisked outside and grilled before being brought back to you plated with fries and salad. While the fish can be a little pricey, the beer and wine is cheap making a late lunch here very much worth your while. Just be sure to either reserve a table or arrive early because the fish sells out quickly.

Where: Porto de Pesca da Baleeira
When: Mon to Fri 8am – 4pm

Picnic

Picnic is the place to go in Sagres if you have a passion for cool magazines, specialty coffee, pastries, craft beer, or natural wines. In my case, it’s all of the above and a visit to this chilled-out cafe is a must when in Sagres.

Where: Estrada Nacional 268
When: Closed Tuesdays & Wednesdays

A Sagres

A cosy, rustic interior filled with wooden beams and traditional azulejos greets visitors to A Sagres and they will soon find that the menu is as no-frills as the decor. This is simple Portuguese seafood done well; dishes such as Massinha do Mar, clams, octopus rice and dourada served with sides of salad and potatoes.

Where: Ecovia do Litoral
When: Thurs to Tues 12pm – 5pm and 7pm – 10pm

The Best Beaches Around Sagres

The reason that most people visit Sagres is to surf and thankfully, the town has a number of decent beaches that are within walking distance of the main square. To the east of Fortaleza de Sagres you will find the lovely Praia da Mareta and the longest beach, Praia do Martinhal, which is a 10-minute walk over the headland and backed by a purpose-built resort. Of the town’s beaches, these are the most sheltered and better for families looking to swim.

Surfers tend to head west of the Fortress to the beautiful Praia do Tonel where the waves swell a little higher. 2km further towards Cabo de São Vicente you will find Praia de Belixe hemmed in by cliffs where the waters can become even wilder on windswept days thanks to the whipping Atlantic breezes. If you’re heading into the water at either Tonel or Belixe, just be aware that currents can get a little strong.

When is the Best Time to Visit Sagres & the Algarve

While temperatures in the Algarve can range from scorching hot summer days to chilly and overcast depending on the time of year, the region is reliably sun soaked, with approximately 300 days of clear skies each year. The majority of the Algarve’s annual tourists arrive in the summer months, drawn by golden, sandy beaches and temperate water and in the past, this has been an issue for out-of-season visitors that find many of the resort centres shuttered for the winter. However, recently there has been a focus on the area’s natural beauty, water sports and cultural experiences, meaning that even in the shoulder season when the sun isn’t shining, there is plenty to keep you occupied. The summer season, between June and August, is when the Algarve is at it’s sweltering best. Temperatures average in the late twenties and can occasionally reach a sizzling 40 degrees. These are the months for beach lounging and as such, the summer months encourage a huge influx of people resulting in crowded stretches of sand, high accommodation prices, and full flights. Make sure to book with plenty of time to spare and aim to base yourself in quieter areas.

The winter months, between November and March, you’ll see far less people and the weather remains fairly pleasant (highs are around 16 degrees). While you will have to expect rain and cold evenings, the cooler climate lends itself to hiking and outdoor pursuits. It is also the perfect time to explore the Algarve’s cultural side as many of the larger towns host musical or theatrical events and come February, the annual carnival festivities see people taking to the streets for parades and parties.

In my personal opinion, the spring and autumn shoulder seasons are when the region is at its best. While you may still experience some rainy days, the weather will mostly be good without being stifling, meaning that beach days, hiking, mountain biking and surfing are all good options. There will also be a lack of crowds, allowing you to find cheaper flight and accommodation options.

David McClane is a photographer and travel writer based in Leeds, UK. Since first picking up a camera on a yearlong journey through Central and South America in 2014/2015, He has carefully documented his travels through over 50 countries.

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