Straddling the Pennine watershed, the twenty-plus valleys that make up the Yorkshire Dales represent the epitome of the English countryside; rolling sheep covered hills and verdant vales where brooks and streams flow from the rugged limestone uplands. With its stone villages and natural beauty, it is an area that is best described as both Pastoral and Idyllic.
Those that live here will be quick to explain that each Dale has its very own unique identity, even if no one can agree quite on how many Dales there actually are. What everyone can agree on though, is that Malhamdale is easily one of the most popular with tourists and day trippers, who flock to the area for its exceptional, and relatively relaxed, walks.
Sandwiched between Wharfedale and Ribblesdale, this short valley has in the past had its praises sung by Bill Bryson, who once resided in Kikby Malham, and it is easy to see why; not only does it offer some of the most spectacular scenery in the north of England, it also has some of the best walking and cycling routes in Yorkshire, which is a big claim for an area with an abundance of fantastic trails.
“I won’t know for sure if Malhamdale is the finest place there is until I have died and seen heaven (assuming they let me at least have a glance), but until that day comes, it will certainly do.”
At the centre of it all sits the tiny village of Malham, a bucolic stone settlement that stretches along a burbling brook. While there isn’t much to see here, it is incredibly photogenetic and is home to two delightful pubs, a quaint church, and is very stereotypical of what people expect a Yorkshire village to be.
Malham’s attraction is only increased by the fact that it is surrounded by the striking triumvirate of Malham Cove, Gordale Scar, and Malham Tarn, each of which would be attractions in their own right, but can be combined in one wonderful, circular walk that starts and ends in the village.
Things to See Around Malham
Although it’s quaint and picturesque, the village of Malham doesn’t necessarily have a lot to occupy visitors beyond its two pubs and smattering of cafes. However, most people that flock here come for the numerous walks that can be enjoyed around Malhamdale, particularly the circular walk which takes in all of the area’s most popular sights.
Malham Cove
The sheer, horseshoe-shaped cliff of Malham cove dominates the surrounding countryside, rising like a stone amphitheater 260ft from the valley floor. The curtain-like facade was carved over 12,000 years ago by the intense flow of glacial meltwater and the resulting waterfall. Although the thunderous flow has been absent for millennia, the resulting cove is a testament to the impressive power of nature.
A must for any visitor is a climb to the top via the long stairway at the western end as the summit offers not only spectacular views across the Dales, but a chance to see the geological wonder of Malham’s limestone pavement, where the clints and grykes caused by the continuous freezing and melting of water have created a blocky patchwork of rock that required some careful navigation.
Malham Tarn
Standing at 1237ft above sea level, Malham tarn is England’s highest marl lake, and has glacial origins as well as being uniquely alkaline – one of only eight upland alkaline lakes in Europe – meaning that it has huge scientific and geological interest.
There is a well-regarded field studies centre on site due to the native bird and aquatic plant population but even if you don’t have any interest in ornithology, the area provides excellent walking and cycling opportunities.
One last interesting fact about the Tarn is that it was thought to be the inspiration behind Charles Kingsley’s The Water Babies.
Janet's Foss
Hidden in lush, green woodland just a mile east of the village, you will find Janet’s Foss, a pretty waterfall that plunges over a tufa curtain into a picturesque pool that is perfect for a cooling swim on a summer’s day.
While Foss comes from the old Scandinavian word for waterfall – one that has evolved to force when referring to many of Yorkshire’s other waterfalls – Janet is said to be the local fairy queen who, legend has it, lives in the cave behind the falls. In the past, the pool was mostly used by local farmers for sheep dipping, but nowadays it is an idyllic spot to have a dip yourself.
Whether you believe in Yorkshire’s ancient folk tales or not, a visit to the Foss still provides a magical experience.
Gordale Scar
The dramatic ravine, found about a mile north of Malham, has similar glacial origins to the cove itself, its towering, 330ft high sides gouged by millions of years of slow, glacial scouring and the following limestone-dissolving meltwater. It’s an incredibly grand chasm, one that has inspired both Turner and Wordsworth with its majesty.
The Malham Cove Circular Walk
The Malham Cove circular walk is one of the most popular hikes in this part of the dales thanks to how accessible it is to hikers of all levels and the fact that it takes in some spectacular sights. Starting in Malham village, the well-signposted route passes Janet’s Foss, Gordale Scar, Malham Tarn, and the cove itself, before coming full circle and finishing back in Malham, where there are a few conveniently placed pubs to enjoy a post-walk pint.
Hike Information
Start Point: National Park Centre car park in Malham
Distance: 7.6 miles (12.1 Km)
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
Total Elevation: 360 metres
Time to Complete: Between 3 and 4 hours depending on ability
Facilities: Toilets are available at the National Park Centre car park and their are a number of cafes and pubs in Malham itself.
The walk can be completed in either direction, heading eaither clockwise or anticlockwise from the village.
While some people choose to head directly to the cove, enjoying the sight of its limestone wall rising like a bohemoth from the surrounding meadows as they approach, others like to leave the views from the top of the cliff as a final reward for a completed hike.
There is an advantage to climbing the 400 steps at the start of the hike, before you become tired, as well as ending the walk with a cooling dip in Janet’s Foss. However, my preferred route is the anticlockwise one, which I have laid out in step-by-step instructions below.
Step 1: Malham to Janet's Foss
Taking a left turn out of the Yorkshire Dales National Park car park, past the Wesleyan chapel and towards the Buck Inn, looking for the pretty stone footbridge on the opposite side of the road. Use this to cross the stream, following the gravel footpath south until you see a sign for Janet’s Foss (you will pass through several kissing gates along the way).
Following the sign, you will be wandering down a footpath that has a wall on the right-hand side and a fence on the left. Keep going straight on, ignoring the footbridge to your right, until you pass through one last kissing gate and see a sign announcing that you are entering the National Trust-owned woodland where Janet’s Foss is situated.
It’s a beautiful piece of woodland year-round, but at its best in the spring when the woods have the glorious smell of garlic as the ramsons come into flower. Venture on this path a little earlier in the season and you will be treated to carpets of bluebells spreading out amongst the tree and a sense of magic to this place that is already imbued with folkloric tales of fairies and nymphs.
Descending the gentle incline, you’ll eventually reach the waterfall and pool where Janet is said to reside. Her cave was formed by the limestone bedrock being dissolved and eroded over Millenia by the flowing falls which in turn has created a tufa screen that cascades all the way down to the plunge pool below. If you have the time, make sure to stop for a quick swim in the icy cold water.
Step 2: Janet's Foss to Gordale Scar
Follow the path to the left of the waterfall, ascending out of the woodland until you pass through another kissing gate onto a country lane. Here, you want to take a right and follow the road.
As the road curves, you should see a sign for Gordale Scar pointing to a wide footpath on your left. Follow the path for half a mile and eventually the dramatic, sheer cliffs of Gordale scar will come into view.
Step 3: Gordale Scar to Malham Tarn
The route down the Scar is obvious from here. Follow the limestone ravine until you reach what is seemingly an impasse; a small rockface stretching between the two canyon sides with Gordale beck tumbling gently across it.
If you’re able, you can climb up the waterfall on the left hand side and continue following the gorge. The path up the boulder is clear and stepped in places and obscure in others, but there are generally a few people wandering the same route at any time, so watch them carefully to see if it is something that you feel capable of doing before attempting the climb.
The alternative is retracing your steps back towards the road and bypassing the scramble, which will add a few more miles onto your walk.
Once you reach the top of the small waterfall, the path will level out and eventually lead to a signpost pointing towards Malham Tarn, which you should follow.
Avoiding the Waterfall
The scramble up the waterfall is difficult in places and should only really be attempted by experienced walkers. If you decide that you do not want to scale it, follow the path back down the gorge to the road.
Once you reach it, take a right across the bridge and then another right, following the signpost for Malham Cove until you reach a kissing gate that leads out onto another lane.
Take a right onto the lane and head uphill for a quarter of a mile across fields and an ancient settlement following the path that has a wall to the left-hand side. Just after a cattle grid, the lane bears left away from the wall. Instead of following the lane, keep going on the track by the side of the wall.
By now, you will have rejoined the walkers that decided to brave the path along the Scar, and you will eventually arrive at a junction of two paths at Street Gate.
At street gate, continue straight ahead. This point is the convergence of two ancient trans Pennine routes. You will be following the Arncliffe to Malham path, whilst the one that leads east to west is the route from Wharfedale to Ribblesdale.
After walking for around 20 minutes, the water of the tarn will come into view. There are a few paths that link Street Gate to the water.
Step 4: Malham Tarn to Malham Cove
From the car park at Malham Tarn, turn right and walk along the road. After crossing Malham Water, take a left where you will meet the Pennine way, which should be followed southwards past Watersinks to Colme Scar.
As the path curves around the scar, you will eventually reach a fork in the road. Follow the route left, continuing along the Pennine Way and down the steps into the dry valley.
Malham Cove is well-signposted at this point and following the trail along the valley, you will eventually find yourself atop the stunning limestone pavement. Be careful when navigating the wide cracks and fissures that outline the pavement’s blocky surface but it is worth hopping across it towards the cliff edge, where the floor suddenly drops dramatically to the valley floor, 80 metres below.
This is one of the most spectacular vistas that you will find in the Dales, with the views stretching down the valley, right across Malhamdale.
Step 5: Malham Cove to Malham
Cross the limestone pavement and descend the 400 steps on the western edge of the cliff-face. At the bottom, where the path forks, it is worth taking a short detour via the left to the bottom of the cove where you can get a real glimpse of its scale and even watch climbers who travel from all over the country to scale its imposing surface.
Otherwise, take a right and walk along the path that follows the beck for a short while, through several gates, before ending back out onto the road. Turn left onto the road and follow back into Malham for five hundred yards. It is well-signposted the entire way.
Once you reach the village, there are plenty of places to refresh yourself – either with a hearty meal or a well-served pint of bitter – before making your way back to the car park, which I have listed below.
Where to Stay in Malham
Although most people that come to Malham are only visiting as part of a day trip, the village also makes for a quiet place to base yourself while visiting the Dales as an alternative to busier towns such as Skipton, Settle or Hawes.
Longer hikes such as the Pennine Way also pass through Malham, with day five of the hike (Ickornshaw to Malham) ending in the village before continuing to Horton-in-Ribblesdale for day 6.
For Hikers
YHA Malham
Throughout my UK travels, I will often choose to stay in a YHA Hostel and recommend them to fellow wanderers. They are an ideal budget-friendly alternative to a hotel or B&B and are always clean, comfortable and have excellent amenities whether you opt to stay in a dorm or a private room. The Malham branch has the added benefit of hosting some lovely outdoor glamping pods if you still yearn for the outdoors after a long day of walking.
Luxury Escape
Beck Hall
Sitting at the start of the Malham Cover walking trail across an ancient clapper bridge, the beautiful Beck Hall Hotel began life in 1705 as a yeoman’s cottage. While it gained a new lease of life as a ‘wayfarers’ hostel’ in the 1930s, this cosy riverside cottage has become the village’s finest hotel.
The property consists of 20 unique and characterful rooms as well as a streamside restaurant & bar that is a perfect hangout on summer evenings.
Cosy Country Pub
The Buck Inn
This grade II listed pub dates back to 1874 when it was built on the site of an old coaching inn as part of the Morrison estate. It’s popular with hikers thanks to its great locally sourced food and cask beers but they also have 11 en-suite rooms that are cosy and dog-friendly.
If your budget is a little tighter or you just prefer the fun of camping, Riverside Campsite is situated beside Malham beck in a field close to the cove itself. The family-run site is on a working farm and just a short walk from the village. Facilities include a car park, showers, and toilets.
Where to Eat & Drink in Malham
Malham is relatively small, meaning that there are few dining options. However, the village’s two pubs are always a safe choice and there are a smattering of places to grab a coffee some post-hike sustenance.
The Lister Arms
There is no better way to end a walk in the Dales than to have a pint in a traditional Yorkshire pub and the Lister Arms, a village inn in the centre of Malham, was actually named ‘Yorkshire’s Favourite Pub ‘at the Great Yorkshire Show in 2019. Here you will be able to find home-cooked food, award-winning cask ales and cosy rooms in case you need a place to stay.
The Old Barn Tearoom
This cute tearoom situated between the National Park Visitor Centre and the village has a great selection of homemade cakes as well as an extensive gluten free and vegan menu. Even if you don’t want to sit inside, they dish out coffee, ice creams (from Brymore Dairy in Masham) and sausage and bacon butties with fillings provided by local butchers, Jackson’s of Cracoe.
The Old Barn is open from 9.30am to 5pm between Mid-February to Early November and from November to Early February. They are closed on Tuesdays except during school holidays.
The Secret Garden Bistro
Part of the Beck Hall Hotel, the Secret Garden Restaurant provides a laid-back dining experience beside a bucolic, babbling stream. The menu is entirely plant-based, meaning it is the place to eat in Malham for vegan hikers in need of a hearty meal before or after walking the circular trail.
They are open daily, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, as well as dishing up a fantastic roast on Sundays, all crafted using the best ingredients from local suppliers whilst being cruelty-free, sustainable and seasonal.
How to get to Malham
Malhamdale and its main village, Malham, lie between Wharfedale and Ribblesdale in the Craven district of North Yorkshire. It is easy enbough to reach by car, taking the A65 to Gargrave and then heading north on Ray Bridge Lane and Eshton Road before following the signs towards Kirkby Malham and onwards to Malham itself. Be aware that the roads between the village and the A65 are winding and narrow, so careful driving is required.
By Train
Although Malham does not have its own train station, it is relatively accessible via rail. The closest station is Gargrave, around 7 miles away, but there are more frequent services to Skipton from major cities such as Leeds and Bradford. It is also possible to reach Malham via Settle but taking the Leeds to Carlisle route, which is particularly scenic.
Routes and prices are available via Trainline.
By Bus
Buses run to Malham from Skipton via Gargrave, which are both accessible by rail. The number 75 Dales Bus runs to Malham from Skipton (approx. 40mins) via Gargrave, but only on Saturday. The Malham Dales Bus number 881 serves the route on Sundays and Bank Holidays. The Cravenlink 884 travels from Bradford, Ilkley and Skipton on Summer Sundays and Bank Holidays (from Easter until mid-October).
Monday to Friday, you can take the 210/211 minibus from Skipton.
During the summer months, there are buses to Malham from Settle via Malham Tarn. Dales Bus 75 travels on Saturdays and Malham Dales Bus 881 runs on Sundays and Bank Holidays.
Current timetables are available on the Dales Bus website.
Parking in Malham
There is a sizeable car park just off Chapel Gate at the South end of the village, part of the National Park Visitor Centre (BD23 4DA). The visitor centre is closed for the entirety of January and only open on weekends throughout February and March (10am – 4pm), however, the car park is accessible year-round.
- £3.50 for up to two hours
- £5.50 for over two hours
- £6.50 for up to 24 hours
- £8.00 for up to 48 hours
- £17.50 for a 7-day ticket that can be used at all National Park car parks.
If you are a resident of the National Park or a regular visitor, you can buy an annual permit for £55.
The National Park Visitor Centre has toilet facilities, a picnic area and an electric vehicle charging point. If you would like to know more about Malham and the Yorkshire Dales in general, you will also find leaflets and brochures as well as friendly staff that will give you any information you should need to make the most of your time in the area.
When is the Best Time to Visit Malham Cove?
The weather in Yorkshire can be unpredictable at the best of times so even visiting Malham Cove at the height of summer won’t guarantee good weather. Luckily, the circular walk can be completed year-round, just be prepared for wind, rain and general inclemency if you choose to hike in Autumn or Winter.
The Dales are generally at their best from Spring onwards, but the increased temperatures draw the crowds and Malham in particular can become crowded from May to September, especially with families during the weekends. I would recommend avoiding both school holidays and weekends if possible, however, If this is the only time you can visit, be sure to arrive early as the car park fills quickly.
The village hosts several cultural and sporting events throughout the year, most notably their annual agricultural and horticultural show, known as the Malham Show, which takes place on the Saturday before the August Bank Holiday, or the Malham Safari the local school build sculptures around the village.
Those with a more adventurous spirit can even attempt the Malhamdale Trail Challenge, a strenuous 22-mile meander that takes in most of the local area.
