There’s a moment, just a few minutes into the walk, when I turn back and see Derwentwater stretching out below me, the calm expanse of shimmering water framed by fells and the grey, slate buildings of Keswick looking tiny as the cluster around the northern shore. With this, it’s easy to see why Catbells is so popular. I have barely started the climb, and my legs are still fresh, but already, I’m seeing the Lake District doing what it does best.
Catbells is far from being the highest fell in the Lake District, and it is even further from being the quietest, but it’s certainly one of the most rewarding to climb. Rising directly from the western shore of Derwentwater, just outside Keswick, it offers the kind of views usually reserved for much longer days in the hills. That balance of ease and maximum result for relatively little effort is what makes Catbells such a favourite, especially for first-time fell walkers.
The route itself has a little bit of everything: well-worn paths, a steady climb, a narrow ridge and a short scramble that adds just enough variety to make the summit feel earned. It’s accessible without being boring, and can feel slightly adventurous without being intimidating
Of course, Catbells’ popularity means you’re rarely alone, particularly in summer. But even with other walkers on the path, there’s something special about this fell. The views shift constantly, the lake never quite leaves your sight, and by the time you reach the top, it’s easy to feel like you’re on top of the world, sneaking a peek at the Lake District’s best vista, and one that thousands of people clamber to see each year.
Whether you’re looking for an introduction to fell walking, a half-day hike near Keswick, or simply one of the best viewpoints over Derwentwater, Catbells is a good choice. More often than not, it leaves you already planning your next walk before you’ve even made it back to the lake.
Where Is Catbells and How Do You Get There?
Catbells is a popular fell in the north-western Lake District, looming over the western shore of Derwentwater, just outside the market town of Keswick. Despite its modest height, its position above the lake gives it some of the best views in the area, making it one of the most walked fells in the Lakes.
Location and Overview
Catbells sits between Derwentwater and the Borrowdale Valley, directly opposite Skiddaw and Blencathra. It forms part of the Catbells–Maiden Moor ridge and is easily visible from Keswick and from many points around the lake. Its proximity to town and well-maintained paths make it one of the most accessible hikes in the Lake District.
Getting to Catbells by Car
Most walkers start the Catbells walk from the western side of Derwentwater. Hawes End car park is the most popular and convenient starting point, located at the southern end of the lake. From here, the main path to Catbells is clearly signposted and easy to find.
During busy periods, particularly in summer and on weekends, Hawes End can fill up quickly. There is space to park at the side of nearby roads, but arriving early in the day increases your chances of finding a spot and makes for a quieter walk overall.
Getting to Catbells by Public Transport
Catbells is one of the few Lake District hikes that works well without a car. Regular buses run between Keswick and Borrowdale, stopping close to the main walking routes. From the bus stop, it’s a short walk to the start of the trail.
For a more scenic approach, a lot of people combine the hike with the Derwentwater ferry. Boats run regularly from Keswick across the lake in the anti-clockwise direction to Hawes End, making the journey to the trailhead part of the experience and offering great views of the fell before you even start walking. This would definitely be my recommended way to begin the journey.
Walking from Keswick
It’s also possible to walk to Catbells directly from Keswick, either via the lakeshore path or by combining the route with public transport one way. This makes Catbells a quick and easy option for a Wainwright if you’re staying in town.
Catbells Hike Overview: What to Expect
Catbells is one of the most accessible fell walks in the Lake District, offering big views and a sense of adventure without the commitment of a full mountain day. It’s short enough to fit into a half day, while still being varied enough to feel like a proper hike.
The standard Catbells walk is around 3.5 miles (5.5 km) and typically takes 2 to 3 hours to complete at a relaxed pace, including time for stops and photos. Despite its modest distance, the route packs in a steady climb, a narrow ridge and a short scramble near the summit, giving the walk far more character than its length suggests.
Expect a mix of well-worn paths, rocky sections and grassy slopes. The ascent is mostly straightforward, but the upper part of the route becomes narrower and more exposed, particularly at the scramble.
In terms of difficulty, Catbells is best described as moderate. It’s suitable for beginners with a reasonable level of fitness, but it’s not a flat stroll. The climb is noticeable, the scramble requires hands-on movement, and weather conditions can significantly affect how demanding the walk feels.
Quick Facts
- Location: Near Keswick, Lake District
- Distance: ~3.5 miles / 5.5 km
- Time: 2–3 hours (allow longer for stops)
- Elevation Gain: ~300 metres
- Summit Height: 451 metres
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Route Type: Circular
- Terrain: Well-worn paths, rocky sections, short scramble
- Best For: Beginners to fell walking, half-day hikes, first-time Lake District visitors
The Catbells Route: Step-by-Step
Most people walk Catbells as a short circular route from the western shore of Derwentwater, usually starting at Hawes End. This route gives a varied ascent, a clear line to the summit, and a gentler descent, making it the most balanced way to experience the fell.
From Hawes End to the First Ascent
From Hawes End car park, follow the clearly signposted path heading south-west, initially on a wide, well-maintained track. The walk begins gently, skirting fields and dry stone walls, with Derwentwater immediately behind you. Within minutes, the views open up across the lake towards Skiddaw and Blencathra.
The path gradually narrows as it begins to climb, turning from gravel to compacted earth and stone. This lower section is steady rather than steep, giving you time to settle into the walk. Looking back, Keswick becomes smaller with each step, while the lake stretches out below, often dotted with boats.
Climbing Towards the Ridge
As you continue upwards, the gradient increases and the path becomes more obviously worn, zigzagging gently across the slope. This is where the walk starts to feel a bit more like a fell ascent, though it remains straightforward underfoot in dry conditions.
The vegetation thins and the landscape becomes more open, with increasingly wide views into Borrowdale on one side and back over Derwentwater on the other. It’s a good place to pause, both to catch your breath and to take in the changing perspective.
The Steeper Sections and Scramble
Approaching the summit ridge, the character of the walk changes. Here, the path narrows considerably, and the ground becomes rockier, with short sections where you’ll need to use your hands for balance. This is the famous Catbells scramble; however, it’s relatively brief and shouldn’t be too much of a struggle, even for young kids.
The Summit of Catbells
The summit of Catbells is clearly marked and surprisingly spacious, with plenty of room to stop and take in the views. From here, the panorama is one of the best in the northern Lake District. Derwentwater lies directly below, framed by woodland, beaches, and distant fells, while Skiddaw and Blencathra dominate the skyline to the north. To the south, the ridge continues towards Maiden Moor and High Spy, giving a sense of the wider Borrowdale landscape.
The Descent and Return Loop
From the summit, the most common descent continues north-east, following a clear path that drops more gently than the ascent route. The initial descent is rocky but less exposed than the scramble, soon easing into a grassy track.
As you lose height, the path widens, and the walking becomes more relaxed, with constant views back across Derwentwater. Eventually, the route curves back towards Hawes End, rejoining lower paths near the lake and completing the circular walk.
Alternatively, stronger walkers can continue south along the ridge towards Maiden Moor and High Spy, extending the walk into a longer and quieter fell route.
Is Catbells a Difficult Hike?
Catbells is often described as one of the easiest and most approachable hikes in the Lake District, and in many ways, that’s true. It’s certainly one of the easiest Wainwrights to bag; It’s short, well-marked and doesn’t involve the long, grinding climbs you’ll find on higher fells like Skiddaw or Helvellyn. But ‘easy’ can be a little misleading.
The first part of the walk is really straightforward, with clear paths and a steady ascent that most people with a basic level of fitness will find manageable. However, it’s the upper section where Catbells feels more demanding. The path narrows, the ground becomes rockier, and there’s a short scramble near the top that requires the use of hands. That said, it’s not a technical climb, and even children will generally find it doable.
In good weather, the scrambling section is more fun than frightening. The rock is solid, there are plenty of handholds, and most people take it slowly without any issues. In poor conditions such as rain, wind, or ice, the same section can feel significantly harder
Overall, Catbells is best described as moderate rather than easy. It’s an excellent introduction to Lake District hiking, but it still demands respect for the terrain and the weather. If you’re comfortable with walking uphill for a couple of hours and happy using your hands briefly on rock, you’ll likely find Catbells rewarding.
What to Wear: A Catbells Packing List
While Catbells is a relatively short walk, it’s still a proper fell hike, and the weather in the Lake District has a habit of changing quickly. Packing and wearing the right gear makes the difference between an enjoyable climb and a slightly stressful one.
Footwear
Good grip is the most important consideration. In dry summer conditions, sturdy walking shoes or trail trainers are usually sufficient, as the paths are well-worn and the scrambling section is short. However, after rain the ground can become muddy and slippery, particularly on the descent, so lightweight walking boots with ankle support are a safer option. After a downpour, trainers with smooth soles are best avoided, especially if the rock is wet.
Clothing
Dress in layers rather than one heavy top. A breathable base layer helps regulate temperature on the climb, while a warm mid-layer such as a fleece is useful for the summit, where it’s often windy even on calm days below.
A waterproof jacket is essential year-round. Even if the forecast looks settled, showers can arrive quickly around Derwentwater and Borrowdale, and the exposed ridge offers little shelter.
Backpack Essentials
A small daypack is more than enough for Catbells, but it should comfortably carry:
- Water (there are no reliable refill points on the route)
- Snacks or a light lunch
- A waterproof layer
- Sunscreen and sunglasses in summer
- A hat and gloves outside of high summer
In cooler months, adding a spare warm layer is a good idea, especially if you plan to spend an extended amount of time at the summit.
Navigation and Extras
The route is clear, well-trodden, and easy to follow in good visibility, so a map isn’t needed. Having an offline map downloaded on your phone from somewhere such as All Trails is still sensible. Mobile signal can be patchy, and mist can roll in quickly, even on short walks like this one.
You don’t necessarily need walking poles for Catbells, but they can be helpful on the descent, particularly if it’s wet or you’re taking the circular route back down. In winter or icy conditions, Catbells becomes a very different proposition. The scrambling section can be treacherous when frozen, and proper winter equipment is probably recommended. If you’re not confident in winter hillwalking, it’s best saved for warmer months.
When Is the Best Time to Hike Catbells?
In my experience, the Lake District can never guarantee warm and dry weather (in fact, it feels like a rarity); however, late spring through early autumn is the most reliable time to hike Catbells. From May to September, the paths are generally dry, daylight hours are long, and the scrambling section near the summit feels far less intimidating in good conditions. Summer also brings the clearest and most mesmerising views across Derwentwater towards Skiddaw and Blencathra.
April and October work well as shoulder-season months, when the trails are less busy with families, and the light is softer. Just be warned that the conditions are more variable. Expect muddier paths and cooler temperatures, especially higher up.
Once you have decided which time of year to hike Catbells, it’s worth considering what time of day is best. I prefer early morning as this not only avoids the busiest periods, but also gives the walk a calmer feel. The light over Derwentwater in the morning is particularly beautiful, and the scramble is far less stressful without crowds. Late afternoon and early evening is the same, when the fell catches a warm, golden glow. Just make sure that you allow plenty of time to descend safely before dark.
Tips for Hiking Catbells Safely
Although Catbells is considered one of the more accessible hikes in the Lake District, it’s still a fell walk and deserves the same level of preparation and respect as any mountain route.
Check the Weather
Conditions on Catbells can be very different from those in Keswick or at lake level. Wind, rain and low cloud can roll in quickly, and the exposed ridge near the summit has no shelter. Always check a dedicated mountain forecast before setting out, rather than relying on a general weather app, and be prepared to turn back if conditions deteriorate.
Take Care on the Scrambling Section
The short scramble near the top of Catbells is the part that catches most people out. Take your time, use your hands, and don’t feel pressured to rush, especially if others are waiting behind you.
Be wary of crowds on narrow paths
Catbells is extremely popular, particularly in summer and at weekends. Narrow sections can become congested. Starting early or choosing quieter times of day makes a big difference. Be patient, communicate clearly with other walkers, and step aside safely when needed.
Wear Appropriate Footwear
Good grip underfoot is essential, especially on the descent when it can become quite easy to slip and fall. Muddy paths and loose stone are common after rain, and I found even in summer, when the fell looked relatively dry, there were patchy sections.
Carry the Basics
Because Catbells is relatively short, it’s easy to underestimate it. Carry water, a waterproof layer and an extra warm layer. There are no facilities on the fell itself, and weather changes can make the summit feel much colder than expected.
Hiking with Children or Dogs
Many families walk Catbells successfully, but the scramble and narrow paths require close supervision. Dogs should be kept under control at all times, particularly near the summit ridge, where exposure and livestock are both considerations.
Is Catbells Worth It?
For all its popularity, Catbells more than earns its reputation. It’s one of those rare walks that delivers almost immediately from the trailhead: There are clear paths, steadily improving views, and it doesn’t require a full day or elite fitness.
What makes Catbells special isn’t the height of the peak, but its location. The way it sits right beside Derwentwater means the views feel expansive from surprisingly early on, and by the time you reach the summit, the panorama rivals that of much higher fells. Looking across to Skiddaw and Blencathra, with the lake laid out below, it’s easy to forget how short the walk actually is.
That said, Catbells isn’t a very well-kept secret and, on busy days, the crowds can be quite large, removing any sense of solitude. But even then, it’s possible to find quiet times, especially early in the morning or later in the day.
Ultimately, Catbells is worth it because it offers so much in such a compact walk. It’s an ideal introduction to the Lake District fells, a rewarding half-day hike for experienced walkers, and a reminder that you don’t always need to go higher or harder to have a memorable day in the mountains.
If you only have time for one fell walk around Keswick, Catbells is a very good place to start.
Where to Stay Near Catbells
Whether you want to be close to the trail, stay somewhere lively, or retreat to a quieter valley, this is an incredibly popular part of the Lake District, and so there are plenty of excellent places to stay within easy reach of Catbells.
Keswick: The Best Base for Hiking Catbells
Keswick is the most popular place to stay for hiking Catbells, as the town sits just a short distance from the trailheads and has excellent transport links, making it easy to reach Catbells even without a car. It’s also well set up for walkers, with outdoor shops, cafés, pubs and plenty of accommodation options clustered around the town centre.
Staying in Keswick makes it easy to combine Catbells with other nearby walks such as Latrigg or Walla Crag, or to explore Derwentwater by ferry. In the evenings, there’s a good choice of places to eat and drink, which is welcome after a day on the fells. Accommodation ranges from friendly guesthouses and B&Bs to boutique hotels and budget-friendly hostels.
The Inn on the Square
Right in the heart of Keswick, this modern hotel is ideal if you want everything on your doorstep. Rooms are comfortable and contemporary, and the ground-floor pub and restaurant make it an easy base after a day of walking.
Keswick Country House Hotel
Set slightly back from the town centre in landscaped grounds, this elegant Victorian hotel offers a quieter stay without feeling remote. It’s particularly popular with walkers, thanks to spacious rooms, hearty breakfasts and easy access to Derwentwater and surrounding fells.
YHA Keswick
I’m a huge fan of staying at YHA properties as a more budget-friendly option, and YHA Keswick is as good as any of the rest. Sitting close to the river and within walking distance of the town centre, it offers private rooms as well as dorms and is a good choice for solo travellers or those prioritising location over luxury.
Staying by Derwentwater
Away from the town, there is accommodation dotted along Derwentwater’s western shore, which places you right at the foot of Catbells. This area feels more peaceful than Keswick, especially early in the morning and late in the evening, when the lake is at its calmest and the crowds thin out.
Accommodation tends to be smaller and more limited, often in the form of lakeside hotels, inns and self-catering cottages, so booking ahead is essential in peak season.
Lingholm Estate and Kitchen
Sitting directly on the western shore of Derwentwater beneath Catbells, Lingholm Estate is one of the most special places to stay in the area. Formerly the holiday home of Beatrix Potter, it combines historic character with modern, thoughtfully designed rooms. Waking up here allows for an early, crowd-free ascent of Catbells, while Lingholm Kitchen is widely regarded as one of the best places to eat around the lake, making it as much a culinary destination as a base for walking. Even if you aren’t staying there, it’s worth a visit for a hearty breakfast before your hike.
Mary Mount Hotel
Also located on the western side of Derwentwater, Mary Mount Hotel offers traditional Lakes hospitality in a peaceful setting. Rooms are comfortable rather than flashy, but the real draw is the location.
Nichol End Marine Hotel
Positioned close to the ferry landing at Nichol End, this hotel makes it easy to mix walking with time on the water. It’s a relaxed, informal option with lake views and straightforward access to both Catbells and the Derwentwater circular walk.
Borrowdale and Surrounding Villages
Borrowdale, lying just south of Catbells, offers a more traditional Lake District experience. Small villages and a scattering of farms are nestled between steep valleys, and the pace of life here is noticeably slower than in Keswick. This is a good option if Catbells is part of a longer walking holiday, or if you’re looking to explore quieter fells.
Accommodation in Borrowdale is typically made up of country inns, guesthouses and a handful of hotels, many of which cater specifically to walkers. Staying here often means quieter nights, darker skies and a stronger sense of being immersed in the landscape.
Lodore Falls Hotel & Spa
Located near the southern end of Derwentwater, this hotel is well known for its dramatic setting and spa facilities. It’s a good choice if you want to balance walking with something a little more luxurious.
Royal Oak at Rosthwaite
This traditional country inn sits in the heart of Borrowdale village and has long been popular with walkers. Rooms are cosy, food is hearty, and the surrounding valley feels quieter and more remote than Keswick, especially in the evenings.
Other Walks Near Catbells
If hiking Catbells leaves you wanting to explore more of the area, then you’re in one of the best parts of the Lake District for short, rewarding walks. From gentle lakeside paths to higher, quieter ridges, there are plenty of options within easy reach of Keswick.
Maiden Moor and High Spy
If you’re keen to extend your Catbells hike, continuing south along the ridge to Maiden Moor and High Spy takes you on a longer route that offers a more remote feel, with even more expansive views back over Derwentwater and down into Borrowdale. It’s a satisfying half to full-day walk and a great way to experience a wilder side of a busy fell.
Walla Crag
Rising directly above Keswick on the eastern side of Derwentwater, Walla Crag is a steeper and more sustained climb than Catbells, but the effort is worth it for the dramatic viewpoints over the lake and town. It’s the ideal choice if you want a slightly more challenging hike than Catbells without committing to a full mountain day.
Latrigg
If you’re looking for something gentler, Latrigg is one of the easiest fells near Keswick. It’s both short and accessible, and it’s ideal for sunrise or sunset walks, or as a low-effort option after arriving in the Lakes. The views across to Skiddaw and down over Keswick make it far more rewarding than its modest height suggests.
Derwentwater Circular Walk
For a complete change of pace after the rocky ascent of Catbells, the Derwentwater circular walk is one of my favourite ways to experience the same landscape, but from water level. The scenery surrounding the lake is stunning, which makes this one of the Lake District’s most beautiful low-level routes.
The full circuit around Derwentwater is roughly 10 miles (16 km), typically taking three to five hours depending on how fast you walk and how many pit stops you decide to take. The route weaves between lakeshore paths, forest trails and short road sections, passing through pockets of National Trust land, as well as past small beaches and jetties. Catbells remains a constant presence throughout the walk and its ridgeline looks wonderful reflected in the lake on still, clear
days.
The best thing about this walk is how flexible it is. You can start from Keswick and follow the well-marked lakeside paths clockwise or anticlockwise, dipping in and out of bays and viewpoints along the way. There are plenty of spots to stop for a picnic or a swim, too.
If you don’t want to commit to the full loop, the Derwentwater ferry makes it easy to shortenyour walk. The boat links several landing stages around the lake, including Hawes End (the usual start point for Catbells), Lodore, Ashness Gate and Nichol End. Hopping on or off turns the walk into a relaxed mix of hiking and cruising, and it’s a particularly nice option if you have kids with you who are getting tired legs.
Some walkers hike one shoreline, then take the boat back to Keswick, effectively creating a half-circuit. Others use the ferry to reach Hawes End, climb Catbells, then return via the opposite shore.
Castle Cragg
Often overlooked in favour of higher peaks, Castle Crag sits at the head of Borrowdale and offers a short but surprisingly rugged walk. Despite being one of the Lake District’s lower fells, it feels dramatic and wild, with excellent views over the valley and surrounding crags.
