Riga’s brewing story begins long before the modern craft boom: centuries of Baltic beer traditions, of farmhouse ales, hearty lagers made to see off long winters, of monasteries and inns where locals shared pots of malted barley and hops. Through wars, occupations and economic shifts, beer has remained part of Riga’s social fabric. But today, the city stands at something of a crossroads in the beer world.
In the 19th century, the city’s skyline bristled with the chimneys of great breweries; names like Kunzendorff, Kymmel and Stritzky, whose malting factories and porter plants clustered in and around the industrial arteries of central Riga. Even as wars and occupations swept through the Baltic, as borders shifted and empires rose and fell, brewing remained a constant, its presence preserved in the brick façades of now-defunct malt houses.
Where once big industrial lagers dominated, now small breweries sprout. experimenting with sour ales, IPAs, wild yeasts, and foraged botanicals. In recent years, something of a renaissance has been quietly taking root. Mass-produced lagers and dark beers that carried the weight of tradition have slowly been replaced or doctored. Riga’s modern brewers have begun rummaging through that history and then steering decisively beyond it into wild sour ales, hazy IPAs, experimental stouts, fruit-infused beers and herbal brews that draw on Latvia’s forests, garden and countryside. This is where the modern and the traditional intersect: breweries looking backwards so they can leap forward. Among them, Ārpus Brewing Co, founded in 2017, has made its reputation by embracing this ‘outside the box’ spirit. As they themselves put it, their name means “beyond, outside” – Their beers are brewed to push flavour and aroma past the mass-produced norm.
As such, Riga’s place in the Baltic and international beer scene is growing fast, alongside Tallinn and Vilnius, and increasingly, it draws comparisons with European centres of craft – Copenhagen, the UK, and Barcelona – not because it mimics them, but because it is forging a voice of its own.
Nowhere is this more vividly on display than in what locals call the Beer District, a loose cluster of neighbourhoods that include Miera iela, Brīvības gatve, Teika, and the criss-crossing streets around A. Briāna and Valdemāra. This is the ground where Riga’s historic brewing industry once stood tallest, where the great factories and brewhouses dominated city blocks. Many of those buildings remain, their industrial outlines repurposed into creative workshops, bars, and restaurants. Today, the Beer District is a kind of living palimpsest: you can walk from a sleek modern taproom serving cutting-edge IPAs into a vaulted cellar where folk bands still play beside pints of honey beer, tracing centuries of brewing culture within the space of a few streets.
The district has become the beating heart of the city’s craft beer revolution, boasting what is often claimed to be the highest concentration of different beer styles available in Northern Europe. Here, names like Valmiermuiža’s Beer Embassy, Labietis, TEIKA, and Alkimikis have staked their ground. Threading through it all is a sense of revival.
It is a reminder that this city has always been a place where beer mattered, that brewing here was once an industry and is now once again an identity. It is also an invitation to taste how Latvia, once overlooked on the European beer map, has joined the conversation with confidence, and has fast become one of Europe’s best – and most overlooked – beer destinations.
The Best Breweries & Taprooms in Riga
Riga’s brewing landscape is a blend of the old and the new. There is a good mix of historic institutions to edgy garage-style operations, with everything in between, meaning that the city’s breweries have become cultural landmarks in their own right.
Labietis
Labietis is one of Riga’s most fascinating breweries, a place where history and robust flavours combine in ways that make it a must-visit on any Riga beer crawl. The brewery was initially born from a desire to break free of the bland, industrial lagers that dominate Latvia’s pubs, with the brewery long championing a philosophy it calls ‘Pagan Brews,’ beers that draw inspiration from Latvian folklore and the natural world. Herbs, honey, berries, and wild plants make their way into the brewing process alongside more traditional grains and hops, resulting in beers that feel both experimental and intensely connected to the country’s culture.
At the heart of the brewery is its main home on Aristīda Briāna iela, a former factory district that has become a cultural hotspot in Riga. This brewpub, often described as the cradle of Labietis, features sixteen tap lines pouring everything from their best-known herbal ales to freshly brewed experiments, while the rustic interior of wooden benches, chalkboards, and industrial brickwork adds to the sense that this is more workshop than polished bar.
The beers themselves are as varied as they are distinctive. A juniper-spiced red ale might sit alongside a honey-rich braggot, or a sour infused with forest fruits, or darker brews that nod towards classic Baltic porter traditions. A perennial favourite is Mežs, which layers the resinous bite of juniper berries over a sturdy malt base, creating a flavour that is both wild yet grounded. The line-up changes often, but what unites them all is a refusal to play safe.
Beyond the main brewpub, Labietis has spread its influence across Riga with smaller outposts, each offering a slightly different experience. At the Central Market, their stall provides an easy pause between exploring the food halls, offering the chance to sample a fresh pour amid the bustle of one of Europe’s great markets. Out towards Bukultu iela, a warehouse taproom is another expression of Labietis’s character, set against industrial surroundings. Wherever you find them, the ethos remains the same: beer as folklore and an intrinsic part of Latvian culture.
Where: Aristida Briāna iela 9a, Centra rajons, Rīga
When: Monday to Thursday 3pm – 12am; Friday & Saturday 1pm – 2am; Sunday 1pm – 12am
Valmiermuiža
It’s impossible to talk about beer culture in Latvia without mentioning Valmiermuiža. This is more than just a brewery, as its roots stretch back to the eighteenth century, when the Valmiera Manor was transformed by Duke Peter August Friedrich of Schleswig-Holstein-Sonderburg-Beck into a hunting lodge with gardens and a deer park, a place where noble guests were welcomed with food and drink. Though wars and neglect eventually wore down the estate, the area retained its sense of hospitality. That legacy was revived in the early 2000s, when local entrepreneur Aigars Ruņģis set out to rebuild not just the manor, but the tradition of brewing that once gave it life. By 2006, the first bricks of a new brewery stood on the historic site, and by 2009, after years of painstaking experimentation, the first Valmiermuiža lager flowed from the taps.
From the start, Valmiermuiža has championed patience. Each beer is brewed slowly, using carefully selected malts, hops, yeast, and water, with an emphasis on natural, ‘live’ beer that feels connected to the land. Their range has grown steadily over the years, and in the taproom, you’ll find a huge selection of ales, mostly leaning towards the traditional: golden lagers that shine with clarity, deep and malty dark lagers, seasonal ales, and even non-alcoholic offerings, all crafted with a balance that favours refinement over excess. The Amber Lager is a perennial favourite, rich with caramel malt and balanced by a gentle bitterness, while the Dark Lager offers a maltier, roasted edge that feels tailor-made for cold Latvian evenings.
The brewery sits amid the restored manor estate in the lush Vidzeme countryside, where gardens, a castle tower, and centuries-old oaks provide a backdrop steeped in history. Inside, visitors can tour the brewing facilities, seeing each stage of the process, before sitting down in the old barn that now houses a beer kitchen. Here, local ingredients are transformed into traditional Latvian dishes such as braised meats, smoked fish, and rustic rye bread, served with carefully chosen pairings from the brewery’s own taps.
For those unable to make the trip north from Riga, Valmiermuiža has created city ‘embassies’ that bring the manor’s hospitality into the capital. At locations like Āgenskalns Market, you can try the beers on tap, purchase bottles to take away, and experience the brewery’s food pairings without leaving the city. I’d recommend heading to their taproom at Aristida Briāna, which has the feel of an artisan deli rather than a regular pub: the shop sells local produce, wines and a rather large range of Latvian bottled beers alongside their own brews. The tap list is also pretty extensive, and it makes for a nice spot to sip and sample a pint while exploring the northern edge of the city centre.
Where: Aristida Briāna iela 9a, Centra rajons, Rīga
When: Monday to Wednesday 12pm – 10pm; Thursday to Saturday 10am – 12am; Closed Sunday
Alus darbnīca TEIKA
In the residential and leafy Teika district of Riga, the founders of TEIKA saw an opportunity in stepping away from the old town and start brewing on the city’s outskirts. Alus darbnīca TEIKA opened in the same area, on Brīvības iela 348, aiming to make a brewery tap that feels more like a neighbourhood bar. Though young in years compared to some of Latvia’s brewing veterans, TEIKA has made its mark relatively quickly, thanks to a willingness to experiment, strong community roots, and a location that gives breathing space to creativity.
That decision to root themselves outside the bustle of the Old Town has shaped the brewery’s character: TEIKA feels local at heart, designed with community in mind, but curious beer-lovers who are willing to make the tram journey east are rewarded with something worth travelling for.
You’ll already find their beers occupying the shelves and fridges of bars throughout Riga. Their portfolio stretches wider than most newcomers dare: Rather than sticking to the comfort of lagers and traditional Baltic darks, the brewers leaned into innovation. Fruit-forward sours, milkshake IPAs, dark ales infused with rice or rye, even beers flavoured with rowan berries or raspberries all take up space on their taps. Some of its signature beers, such as Black Rice Ale, Raspberry Slap, and Rowan Session IPA, showcase flavour twists you won’t see everywhere, while staples like Baltic stouts or classic porters anchor their range in traditions.
The taproom on Brīvības iela is the heart of this operation. With its simple wooden furnishings, exposed walls, and relaxed layout, it feels more like a workshop-pub than a polished bar, a reflection of the darbnīca, or workshop, in its name. Staff are happy to talk you through the current line-up, offering samples and stories that make the beer feel personal. In my opinion, it’s worth the journey to get here.
Where: Brīvības gat. 348, Vidzemes priekšpilsēta, Rīga
When: Monday & Tuesday 4pm – 10pm; Wednesday & Thursday 4pm – 11pm; Friday & Saturday 2pm – 12am; Sunday 2pm – 9pm
Nurme Brewery & Taproom
Since its founding in 2016, when the founders, Mareks and Uģis, launched their first brew in a garage, Nurme has grown into one of Riga’s most compelling craft breweries. Their vision has always been to create beers that both honour Latvian produce and nature while pushing the boundaries of modern brewing. The name itself, taken from the Livonian word for meadow, reflects this philosophy: flavours and ingredients rooted in the land. Their home on Vagonu iela sits in a former industrial district, a once-worn factory space transformed into a creative hub of iron beams and bare brickwork where you can sip pints alongside the brew kit.
It’s one of the coolest spaces that I’ve had a beer in Riga, Spacious and airy, with the industrial setting not distracting from their interesting beers. The bar usually runs a dozen taps, showcasing a mix of core favourites and experimental one-offs, with occasional guest beers rounding out the selection. I was brave enough to sample a horseradish IPA, merging a local flavour with an international style, while sours use local berries and lagers are spiked with hints of Baltic herbs.
Alongside these, you’ll find hazy pale ales brimming with citrus, dark Baltic porters rich with chocolate and roasted malt, and creations that pull directly from Latvia’s landscape; Pinefruit blends grapefruit zest with pine buds, capturing a taste of forest and orchard in a single glass, while Nuts, brewed for Latvia’s centenary, layers hazelnuts into a robust porter. Fruited sours, milkshake IPAs, and seasonal specialities rotate regularly.
Nurme’s story doesn’t end at Vagonu iela. They have a smaller outpost on Avotu iela, Nurme Bar, which offers a reduced tap list and a more intimate experience. Together, they make Nurme a cornerstone of Riga’s craft beer scene.
Where: Vagonu iela 21, Latgales priekšpilsēta, Rīga
When: Closed Monday; Tuesday 5pm – 11pm; Wednesday & Thursday 5pm -12am; Friday & Saturday 5pm – 1am; Sunday 5pm – 11pm
HAT Brewery Taproom
HAT Brewery is one of the newer additions to Riga’s craft scene, but it has quickly carved out a reputation for bold, modern beers that stand shoulder to shoulder with the city’s more established names. Founded by a group of friends with a shared passion for beer, the brewery grew from a small-scale project into a brand recognised across Latvia for its striking labels and even more striking flavours. While some older Latvian breweries lean into traditional lagers and malt-forward styles, HAT made its mark by diving headlong into the world of juicy, hop-driven ales.
The beer list reflects this spirit of innovation. Core offerings often include hazy New England-style IPAs bursting with citrus and tropical fruit, crisp session ales designed for easy drinking, and the occasional Baltic porter or milk stout that anchors their range in darker, more traditional territory. Rotating specials and seasonal releases appear regularly. You may find a fruited sour in the summer, or perhaps a powerful double IPA in winter.
Their taproom on Dzirnavu iela is compact and cosy, leaning into the brewery’s Viking iconography. It may have been an evening of drinking playing havoc with my mind, but I’m fairly sure that the bar’s sound system was playing Norse sea shanties over the speakers fir the entirety of my session there.
Where: Dzirnavu iela 66, Centra rajons, Rīga
When: Wednesday & Thursday 5pm – 11pm; Friday & Saturday 4pm – 12am; Sunday 12pm – 7pm
Peter's Brewhouse
On the narrow, Skārņu iela in Riga’s Old Town, where you will find a huge number of restaurants and bars vying for your attention, Peter’s Brewhouse beckons with the comforting promise of freshly brewed beer and hearty food. Housed in a charming stone building at number 9, it positions itself as the Old Town’s first and only restaurant-brewery, a heady mix of Latvian and German tradition.
From its opening, the draw has been twofold: for locals seeking a place that feels both reliably traditional and proudly homegrown, and for travellers wanting to sample fresh-from-the-tank beer without leaving the historic centre. You’ll spot their copper brew kit sitting proudly next to the main bar, although I can’t say for certain if it is ever used (I suspect not). However, Peter’s brews three signature beers on site: a light lager, a dark lager, and a red lager, each not wildly interesting in terms of character, despite offering windows into how brewing has long been part of the Northern European cultural fabric. The draughts, served chilled and fresh, feel especially rewarding after wandering the maze of Old Town streets or freezing by the Daugava in winter.
As the service was a little slow and not particularly friendly, despite being on of the first and only customers to enter on a slow Friday afternoon, I opted not to sample the food. However, the menu is fairly varied, offering pizzas and burgers alongside dishes that feel traditional: Plates that bear both German influence and Latvian comfort: sausages with tangy mustard, lightly pickled vegetables, steaks served with rich mushroom or truffle sauces, as well as hearty portions built for sharing. While I found the place not to be particularly customer-focused, it may be worth stopping to sample a beer that you can’t find elsewhere and enjoy the interior – the colourful stained glass awning over the bar is particularly eye-catching.
Where: Skārņu iela 9, Centra rajons, Rīga
When: Daily 12pm – 12am
If you have more time...
If there is one brewery that defines Latovia’s craft brewing scene, it’s Ārpus Brewery. They have quickly established themselves as one of the brightest stars of Latvia’s modern beer scene, earning recognition far beyond the country’s borders for their bold, hop-forward creations.
Founded in 2017 by a small team of beer enthusiasts determined to bring international-quality craft brewing to Latvia, Ārpus has carved out a reputation for hazy IPAs that rival anything else brewed in Europe’s more established beer capitals.
The brewery itself sits in the quiet village of Saurieši, around 20 kilometres from central Riga, making it more of a pilgrimage than a casual detour. Reaching it is relatively straightforward: buses and trains run from Riga to nearby stops, but it’s possibly easier to hail a Bolt, which brings you from the city centre to the brewery door in under half an hour. This small distance makes a visit feel like an escape into the countryside without straying far from the capital, as well as a chance to see where some of Latvia’s most exciting beers are born.
The Best Craft Beer Bars in Riga
While breweries anchor the beer scene, Riga’s craft bars are where the city’s love for craft really comes alive. They serve as meeting points, cultural spaces, and platforms for showcasing local and international brewing talent.
KAĶIS MAISĀ
It may not look like much from the outside – a few tables and chairs scattered on the pavement on Torņa iela in Riga’s Old Town, underneath a cutesy sign depicting a cat and with a view of Riga’s medieval fortifications – but KAĶIS MAISĀ, which translates to “Cat in the Bag”, is one of the city’s best craft beer bars. Through its door and down some steps, you will find yourself within a series of vaulted cellar rooms, its stone walls and arched ceilings create an intimate setting.
The bar was founded as an Old Town outpost of TEIKA Brewery, one of Latvia’s rising stars, and it serves as both a showcase for their own beers, as well as ales from the wider Latvian craft scene. On tap, you’ll often find TEIKA’s experimental IPAs, stouts and seasonal specials alongside guest pours from other microbreweries. The selection is large and always rotating, meaning that no two visits are quite the same, with tasting flights available for those keen to explore a cross-section of styles in a single sitting. In fact, I visited two evenings in a row and the line-up had already changed.
Despite its location in the tourist heart of Vecrīga, KAĶIS MAISĀ remains a relatively quiet and peaceful place to stop for a pint. The staff are knowledgeable and welcoming, quick to recommend new releases or explain the finer points of Latvia’s brewing culture. For anyone seeking a little respite from the tourist crowds without straying far from the Old Town, KAĶIS MAISĀ is an essential stop.
Where: Torņa iela 4, Centra rajons, Rīga
When: Monday & Tuesday 4pm – 10pm; Wednesday & Thursday 4pm – 11pm; Friday & Saturday 2pm – 12am; Sunday 2pm – 10pm
Ms & Mr Beer
Another bar in the Old Town, just a short 4-minute walk from KAĶIS MAISĀ, Ms & Mr Beer is tucked away on a narrow street just off Vecrīga’s more famous thoroughfares. While the beer list isn’t as expansive as other venues on this list (they just had four draught beers on offer when I visited, but a semi-decent selection of cans), it’s worth coming for the vibe.
The décor is delightfully eccentric: a retro car has been repurposed into high tables, vintage motorcycles lean against brick walls, and unexpected curios line the shelves in shameless vintage and retro style. Even the brassy beer taps and countertop give a steampunk feel.
The soundtrack plays a big role in building atmosphere: classic rock from the 70s through the 90s fills the air, blending with the murmur of locals and tourists chatting under the dim lighting. It isn;t a huge place, so arrive early in the evening to claim a seat. Although you can always perch yourself at the bar, like I did.
Where: Mazā Miesnieku iela 1, Centra rajons, Rīga
When: Monday to Thursday 2pm – 11pm; Friday & Saturday 2pm – 1am; Sunday 2pm – 9pm
BEERA Bar
Most of the craft beer bars I visited around Riga seemed relatively subdued. Just a few patrons quietly sipping beers, even as it got late into the evening. While Beera is not too dissimilar to any of the other bars on this list – a dimly lit, modern space with a few taps of local craft beers and a fridge packed with an eclectic array of cans – it does differentiate itself from the others with the fact that it was packed when I stopped by on an Autumnal Wednesday evening.
It may be due to the bar’s location, on the edge of the Central district, where the streets begin to feel more residential, but it is still in the so-called ‘Beer District’, not far from places like the much-quieter Nurme Bar and Alus Muiža. It could have just been happenstance, but the atmosphere was lively and jovial, the beer selection was good, and the solo bartender was incredibly friendly and helpful despite being rushed off his feet.
Where: Mazā Miesnieku iela 1, Centra rajons, Rīga
When: Monday to Thursday 2pm – 11pm; Friday & Saturday 2pm – 1am; Sunday 2pm – 9pm
Alus Muiža
Still in the Central District, a short hop from Beera, you’ll find Alus Muiža. There isn’t a great deal to set this bar apart from the others; a mix of rustic and modern that is taproom-by-the-numbers; warm wooden tables, friendly bartenders, and shelves stocked with a mix of bottles and cans. However, the beer selection is enough to make this place worth a visit. Fruit sours and IPAs by favourites like Arpus and ODU often share space with hop-laden creations from Malduguns or Hopalaa. The tap list is attractively local, and cheap take-home options such as 1- or 2-litre bottles or even growlers make it easy to extend the party once you leave.
Where: Ģertrūdes iela 45, Centra rajons, Rīga
When: Monday to Thursday 4pm – 11pm; Friday & Saturday 4pm – 12am; Sunday 4pm – 11pm
Alus Celle
Alus Celle, literally meaning ‘Beer Cellar’, delivers exactly what its name suggests: wander down the steps into this underground tavern and you’ll find a spot that’s dimly lit, atmospheric, and certainly not lacking character. Despite one wall being covered in vintage signs from classic Belgian and European breweries, the small tap selection is mostly made up of Modern Latvian brews from big hitters such as Ārpus Brewing Co. and Nurme.
The staff seemed friendly, knowledgeable and more than willing to wax lyrical about their favourite beers, while on my visit, a small sampling station was set up by a local mead producer where he was offering tasters and flights, hinting that this is the sort of place where passionate beer-lovers often host tap takeovers and beer-related events. It’s definitely worth a stop if you’re in the city’s central district.
Where: Baznīcas iela 35, Centra rajons, Rīga
When: Wednesday to Saturday 12pm – 10pm
Lauvas Alus
Walking into Lauvas Alus, you can instantly tell that they’re serious about beer. Parallel walls are lined entirely by bottles and cans; it seems like they have almost every variety that Ārpus has ever brewed, and the rest of the line-up is an almost who’s who of Latvian craft brewing. If there’s a beer that you want to find, you’ll discover it here. There are over 200 different beers from around 30 Latvian breweries.
That’s what makes Lauvas Alus special; they have possibly the largest selection of beer that I saw in Riga. It is mostly a bottle shop, but they have a handful of taps pouring on any given day, letting you sample before you commit. The owner was well-versed in the local brewing scene, and she was happy to give recommendations on her favourite tipple. Whether you’re after a hop-heavy IPA, a rich stout, or something lighter but interesting, the breadth of selection here makes it one of the best beer spots to visit in Riga.
Where: Tallinas iela 30, Centra rajons, Rīga
When: Monday to Thurday 2pm – 8pm; friday & Saturday 12pm – 8pm; Sunday 12pm – 6pm
Walters & Grapa
On a cool evening, when Riga’s Old Town begins to glow under the street-lamps and the tables at cafés and bars fill, it’s sometimes a good idea to ditch the crowds and head a little outside of the historic centre. The bohemian and atsy enclave of Miera iela, is the perfect place. Situated near the taprooms of brewers Labietis and Valmiermuižas, Walters & Grapa stands as one of Riga’s most inviting hangouts for craft beer lovers and art-seekers alike.
Located at number 41 on that storied street, in a shabby chic, wooden mansion, this bar isn’t polished to perfection, but its rough edges are what lend it character and attract a creative crowd.
As you push through the door, you’ll find yourself in a softly lit interior filled with mismatched furniture, art on the walls, and the kind of worn wooden floors that creak in a way that seems comforting. It’s intimate; even when the place is busy, there’s enough close-quartered seating that it feels cosy and personal. Because of this, over the years, W&G has become an essential hub for pre/after art festival parties, and casual nose-up drinks and talks. Thoroughly selected live music gigs, DJ sets, poetry nights, experimental and new jazz, art performances add to the experience.
The selection of drinks at Walters & Grapa is carefully curated. On any night you’ll find a range of local Latvian craft beers, bottles and draughts that change often, so there’s always something new waiting behind the bar.
Where: Miera iela 41, Centra rajons, Rīga
When: Sunday to Thursday 6pm – 1am; Friday & Saturday 6pm – 3am
Bon Vivant
One thing I found strange about Riga was the sheer number of pubs styling themselves on serving Belgian beer. It isn’t something I investigated or looked into while I was in the city, but almost everywhere I looked, there was a bar advertising Leffe or draped in Belgian flags.
Of all of them, Bon Vivant is the one worth visiting. Despite being located in Riga, it’s a Belgian café at heart. Its vast bottle menu spans Trappist classics, Belgian ales, and an impressive roster of Latvian craft. With its dark wooden interiors and convivial atmosphere, you could be mistaken for thinking that you had been suddenly transported to Brussels or Antwerp.
Where: Mārstaļu iela 8, Centra rajons, Rīga
When: Sunday to Thursday 12pm – 11pm; Friday & Saturday 12pm – 1am
Kaņepes Kultūras centrs
Walking up Skolas iela 15, you’ll find Kaņepes Kultūras centrs housed in a stately building that’s over a century old. Its walls are steeped in the layers of Riga’s history, from Baltic German and Russian aristocratic gatherings, through bohemian interwar parties, to years when it lay abandoned. Today, it may not host the city’s elite, but it now it pulses with bohemian life.
It may be a little misplaced in this article, because I wouldn’t class KKC as a typical craft beer spot, although it does have a decent selection of ales. Instead, it’s part of a larger cultural experiment. What was once the domain of the high classes has, since reopening in 2010, grown into one of Riga’s most important alternative venues, a place where art, activism, and community can come together.
On any given night, they could be hosting an experimental theatre performance in one room, a film screening in another, and a jazz quartet or DJ set holding court downstairs. The courtyard, particularly in summer, is one of the best beer gardens in the city, with people mingling in the glow of string lights, amongst sculptures and artwork. The centre’s calendar is deliberately eclectic, a mix of grassroots projects, underground culture, and events that blur the line between formal programme and spontaneous gathering.
KKC also plays an important role in Riga’s civic and cultural identity. It has been a platform for social activism, a stage for emerging musicians, and a gallery for artists who might otherwise find little space in the city’s more traditional institutions. Over the years, it has hosted everything from photography exhibitions to LGBTQ+ film festivals, political debates to impromptu dance parties.
To match their inclusive ethos, drinks are reasonably priced. A local beer like Valmiermuiža or Piebalgas might cost around €2-€3, which makes it one of the cheapest places to enjoy craft pours in the centre of the city.
Where: Skolas iela 15, Centra rajons, Rīga
When: Monday & Tuesday 11am – 12pm; Wednesday & Thursday 11am – 2am; Friday 11am – 4am; Saturday 4pm – 4am; Sunday 4pm – 12am
Ala Pagrabs
Beneath the cobbled streets of Riga’s Old Town lies Ala Pagrabs, a cavernous cellar bar and restaurant that has become something of a rite of passage for visitors to the Latvian capital. Its popularity is no accident: here, medieval architecture, local folk culture, and generous hospitality combine to create a dining experience that feels deeply rooted with a sense of place. The vaulted stone ceilings and winding brick passages once stored wine; however, today, they host one of the city’s most sought-after dining spots, where folk musicians perform on a nightly basis to tables packed with hungry tourists.
While this may sound like a bit of a tourist trap, it lives up to the hype. The main draw lies in its food, which serves as a crash course in Latvian flavours. Platters piled high with smoked meats and cheeses arrive alongside the country’s beloved grey peas with bacon, while pork knuckle, potato pancakes and garlicky rye bread prove to be crowd-pleasers. I can tell you from experience that you won’t leave hungry. The portions are hearty, designed for sharing, and rich enough to keep you full for most of the following day. This is food that speaks to the country’s rural traditions. It’s nourishing, unfussy, and full of flavour.
Again, this isn’t a place renowned for its beer list, but it is surprisingly long and diverse for a restaurant like this. Ala Pagrabs champions local brewing with an ever-changing line-up of Latvian draughts, many sourced from small producers across the country. Honey beer, a regional favourite, often makes an appearance, while the taps also pour crisp lagers, malty darks, and modern hop-forward ales.
What makes Ala Pagrabs so popular, though, goes beyond food and drink. It’s the atmosphere that keeps people coming back for more. Locals come as readily as visitors, which lends it an authenticity that few tourist-heavy bars can muster. On weekends, the vibe is electric, the long tables filling quickly with groups of friends who, by night’s end, are often singing along together.
Where: Peldu iela 19, Centra rajons, Rīga
When: Monday to Wednesday 4pm – 1am; Thursday 4pm – 3am; Friday 4p,m – 5am; Saturday 2pm – 5am; Sunday 2pm – 1am
Two More Beers
The name ‘Two More Beers’ is no accident. The beer list here seems designed to keep you coming back for just one more round. Twenty or so taps pour a mixture of local craft and international favourites, and while the selection may not be as interesting or as experimental as some other bars mentioned in this article, there is enough variety to keep you sipping pints for the entire evening. Having said that, it is worth stopping by to sample their own house creations, a lager and an IPA brewed under the Two More Beers name.
You’ll find Two More Beers on Kalēju iela in the heart of Riga’s Old Town. It’s a venue that gives off more of a laid-back, sports bar vibe, rather than that expected of a standard craft beer bar, which may put off some people, but the atmosphere inside is generally warm and convivial.
Generally, it depends on what time you arrive: afternoons bring in small groups of friends sharing a tasting flight; evenings see the tables fill with diners and the courtyard buzzing with a more raucous crowd.
As such, Two More Beers manages to be both a destination and a springboard. It is the sort of bar where you can plot out a night’s exploration of Riga’s craft beer scene, but also the kind of place where plans dissolve after the second or third glass, when another round feels inevitable and you end up finishing the night here.
Where: Kalēju iela 9/11, Centra rajons, Rīga
When: Sunday to Thursday 12pm – 12am; Friday & Saturday 12pm – 1am
Craft Beer Station
Despite being some distance from the Old Town in the residential neighbourhood of Pļavnieki, Beer Station is worth a stop if you happen to be in the area. Like a few other places mentioned above, this is part bottle shop, part bar: There is a small but perfectly formed tap list and plenty of canned and bottled beers to take away, with a heavy focus on breweries from Latvia and Riga itself.
Where: Lubānas iela 113C, Latgales priekšpilsēta, Rīga
When: Tuesday to Thursday 4pm – 11pm; Friday 4pm – 2am; Saturday 2pm – 2am; Sunday 2pm – 11pm
Beer Tours in Riga
While I like to take my time when exploring a city’s breweries, lingering in taprooms and sampling a few different beers, Riga’s craft beer tours are an excellent way to immerse yourself in the city’s scene if you’re short on time or prefer a guided introduction. Companies like Eat Riga Tours and Riga Beer District Tours lead small groups through breweries and bars, offering tastings paired with stories of the city’s brewing traditions.
Some tours focus on the Beer District itself, where you’ll wander between Labietis, Alus darbnīca TEIKA and Nurme Brewery, learning how each approaches brewing. Others combine food with beer, matching Latvian specialities like smoked sprats and rye bread with different styles. For travellers on a quick city break, these tours condense the essence of Riga’s beer culture into a single, fun afternoon. Here is a selection of the best tours that you can take in and around Riga:
Beer Festivals & Events in Riga
Riga’s beer calendar is punctuated by festivals that showcase both beers and international guest breweries. The Riga Craft Beer Weekend is the city’s flagship event, drawing over 60 brewers from across the Baltics and worldwide. Held in early summer, it’s a celebration of all things ale, featuring limited-edition releases, workshops, and live music.
Smaller events also take place throughout the year: seasonal tap takeovers, food-and-beer pairing dinners, and regional festivals that spotlight Latvia’s rural brewers.
Riga Craft Beer Map
Whether you are planning a Riga pub crawl or just want to locate one of the taprooms mentioned above, this map includes all the best microbreweries, taprooms and craft beer bars that were covered in this guide.
Using this map: This map shows both the city’s brewery taprooms (red icons) and craft beer bars (orange icons). The list can be seen and filtered by toggling the icon on the top left-hand-side of the map, and each location can be explored further by clicking them. Expand the map by clicking the icon on the top right-hand-side.
Getting to Riga
Riga is one of the most accessible cities in the Baltics, with Riga International Airport (RIX) serving as the main gateway. Just 10 kilometres from the city centre, this modern airport is well-connected to major European hubs, with direct flights from the UK via London (Gatwick, Heathrow, and Stansted), as well as Manchester and Leeds Bradford Airports. From mainland Europe, there are regular flights from major hubs such as Berlin, Paris, and Stockholm. Low-cost carriers frequently operate here, making Riga an affordable weekend destination.
Reaching the city centre from the airport is straightforward, with multiple options depending on budget and comfort.
By Bus
Bus No. 22 runs from the airport to Riga’s central station (Centrāltirgus stop) in about 30 minutes, depending on traffic. Tickets can be bought at Narvesen kiosks inside the terminal for around €1.50, or directly from the driver (card payment is accepted). It’s the most budget-friendly way to reach the Old Town, and services run frequently from early morning until late at night.
Taxi
Official taxis line up outside the arrivals hall, with a typical fare to the city centre ranging from €15 – €20. It’s wise to confirm the fare before setting off, as prices can vary depending on the company and traffic.
By Ride-Hailing Apps
Bolt, Latvia’s main ride-hailing service, is the most popular and reliable option. Book through the app for clear pricing and shorter wait times. A ride into the city typically costs €10–€15, making it slightly cheaper than a regular taxi.
Arriving by air isn’t the only option. Coaches link Riga with Tallinn, Vilnius and Warsaw, offering a longer but more scenic and budget-friendly alternative. Rail connections are improving, too, with the upcoming Rail Baltica project set to make train travel between the Baltic capitals faster and smoother. For those arriving by ferry, connections from Stockholm provide a different approach to the city, sailing into the Daugava River with views of Riga’s spired skyline.
Getting Around
I found that exploring Riga’s main sights was manageable on foot as the Old Town and central districts are very walkable. However, the city’s public transport network of trams, buses, and trolleybuses makes it easy to travel further afield to districts outside of the city centre, such as neighbourhoods like Miera iela or Teika, where some breweries and bars are located.
Single tickets (usually with a 90-minute journey limit) can be purchased at Narvesen kiosks or at the ticket machines that are found at some stops, with affordable 1, 2, and 3-day passes available.
Tickets are also available via the Rīgas Satiksme or Mobilly mobile apps. While I found that the Rīgas Satiksme app required you to have a local phone number for registration, the Mobility app allowed international users to set up an account. With tickets bought on Mobility, you will need to validate your ticket every time you use a new vehicle by scanning a QR code. Tickets are checked often and failure to have one generally results in a fine of €15 to €30.
Public transport in Riga operates from 5am to 11.30pm. For late-night travels, taxis are plentiful, though the better option is to use ride-hailing apps like Bolt. I found it to be relatively cheap compared to the cost of local taxis or compared to using UBER in the UK.
Where to Stay in Riga
Choosing where to stay in Riga depends on the experience you’re after. The Old Town (Vecrīga) is steeped in history, with cobbled lanes and plenty of bars and restaurants on your doorstep, as well as the city’s main sights. Central Riga offers proximity to the market, railway station, and Art Nouveau district (as well as the best of the city’s dining and drinking scene), while neighbourhoods like Miera iela provide a more local, creative atmosphere: The perfect place for beer lovers keen to stay near the breweries, although getting to the Old Town will require a train or tram ride.
Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel
Where: Kalēju iela 50, Centra rajons, Rīga
Best for: Budget travellers and those looking for a social experience. Ideal for groups of people wanting to share a cheap beds in a dorm room
Despite getting older and gradually needing more comfort and space during my city breaks, I still have a soft spot for hostels. Nothing can quite beat the feeling of turning up somewhere new and instantly having a large group of people that are willing to connect and explore (or party) together.
Located in the Old Town, Naughty Squirrel is a backpacking institution in Riga. It’s just minutes from the city’s main bars, cafés and cultural sites and has a reputation for its lively, sociable atmosphere. You can partake in communal dinners, pub crawls, and even day trips organised by the staff. Dorms are clean and secure, while private rooms are available for those wanting more privacy without losing the fun vibe. Quirky décor, friendly staff and a reputation for fostering connections make it especially popular among solo travellers. For beer lovers, it’s a perfect base: affordable, central, and full of fellow travellers to join you on a night out in Riga’s craft bars.
Radisson Blu Latvija Conference & Spa Hotel
Where: Elizabetes iela 55, Centra rajons, Rīga
Best For: The comfort and reliability of a well-known brand
Towering above Riga’s skyline, the Radisson Blu Latvija is one of the city’s tallest and most recognisable landmarks. Its Skyline Bar on the 26th floor offers panoramic views across the rooftops and spires, best enjoyed with a cocktail at sunset. The hotel caters equally well to business and leisure travellers, with spacious rooms, multiple dining options and one of the city’s largest spa complexes. Its central location puts you within walking distance of the Freedom Monument, the Art Nouveau district and the heart of Riga’s bar scene.
Grand Poet Hotel by Semarah
Where: Raiņa bulvāris 5/6, Centra rajons, Rīga
Best For: Couples and solo travellers who want a stylish base with modern comforts and one of the best rooftop views in town.
Not far from the leafy backdrop of Bastejkalna Park, the Grand Poet Hotel is Riga’s answer to contemporary luxury. Its interiors are sleek and playful, with bold colours, plush fabrics and striking design flourishes that nod to the city’s artistic spirit. Rooms are spacious and soundproofed, which is a welcome retreat from the buzz of the city outside. The hotel’s SPA & wellness centre is a real highlight, with a pool, Finnish sauna and treatments that make it a sanctuary after long days of sightseeing or beer tasting.
