In a way, Cadiz feels like it is out on a limb, both physically and metaphorically. Occupying an island-like peninsula surrounded by the Atlantic and connected to the rest of Andalucia by just 3 roads and bridges, it very rarely features on any ‘must-visit lists’ or even really in the Spanish press, except maybe when the city begins its annual carnival each Ash Wednesday, comprising of the public chanting scathing songs aimed at satirising those in power.
Despite this, Cadiz holds an important place in the annals of Spanish history. It is thought that it is Europe’s oldest continuously inhabited city, founded in 1000BC by the Phoenicians, before the Romans, Arabs, and eventually the Spanish all took turns holding reins. It was in Cadiz that the Spanish Constitution of 1812 was written and signed, only the third such document after the French and American constitutions.
Cadiz wears this history on its sleeves with echoes of the city’s past bouncing through the narrow grids of streets that stretch from the magnificent golden dome of the grand, baroque cathedral to the two defunct fortresses that stand sentinel on the western edge of the old town.
History buffs can rouse themselves by weaving a cultural path from El Populo, past the Oratorio de San Felipe Neri, where the 1812 Constitution was debated towards La Bella Escondida Tower from which, in 1802, people watched Lord Nelson emerge victorious from the Battle of Trafalgar, before stopping in at all manner of quaint plazas, making sure to make a brief stop at the stunning House of the Four Towers on the Plaza de Argüelles, built by a Syrian merchant in the 18th century, and wandering through the beautiful gardens of Alameda Apodaca in front of the Baroque façade of the Iglesia del Carmen.
Walking the streets aimlessly is the best way to discover what Cadiz has to offer, seeing where the mood takes you and making as many tapas stops at the local Freiduría’s as possible along the way.
Being a peninsula bound by water, everything is an easy amble in this city and you are never more than a mile from the water. There are views out to sea at almost every turn and the scent of fried fish clouds the streets around Cadiz’s worn, limestone buildings.
It may not have the same press coverage of its neighbours, but if this tiny, windswept corner of Iberia is good enough for the Phoenicians, Greeks, Visigoths, Romans and Moors, it is good enough for me.
The Best Things to do in Cadiz
Catedral de Cádiz
The Baroque Cathedral of Cadiz seems to dominate the neighbourhood of El Populo, its gold dome towering over the pretty square that sits before it and the grid of streets that cluster at its base. The current Cathedral took 110 years to build (it was started in 1722 and not completed until 1838, financed by money from the ‘New World’, hence its nickname is the ‘Church of the Americas), replacing the original that was decimated by Lord Essex during his raid of 1596. This resulted in the majority of the city being razed, including the cathedral, before Essex plundered Cadiz’s entire stock of locally-produced sherry.
The cathedral’s shimmering cupola is flanked by two bell towers and the 131-foot tall summit of Torre de Poniente, the western spire, is worth the climb. From here you will have an unparalleled view of the old town, its squares, and the glistening Atlantic Ocean.
La Caleta
Of Cadiz’s four beaches – Caleta, Santa María del Mar, Victoria, and Cortadura – La Caleta is the smallest, yet its position beside the old town, sandwiched in a natural harbour between the city’s two castles, make it the most popular for those looking to relax and catch some rays.
It also has a certain amount of pop-culture relevance, being that it was the filming location of the iconic scene in Die Another Day in which Halle Berry’s Jinx emerges from the waves onto La Caleta’s golden shores as it doubled as a Cuban stretch of sand.
When you are finished sunning yourself, the beach is also home to the iconic white and blue Spa of Our Lady of Palma and the Royal as well as a couple of great little beach bars. Most notable is Quilla, a bustling drinking spot with tables laid out on the promenade, making it the perfect spot for sundowners.
Torre Tavira
As a strategic seaport for multiple empires, Cadiz has always taken security seriously, meaning that almost every important building had a watch tower that rose above the grid of narrow streets. At one time, 160 towers kept a watchful eye over the harbour but now only 132 remain. The best-known is the Torre Tavira. Once part of an aristocratic palace, it is now the official watchtower of Cadiz. At 45 metres, it guarantees spectacular views, more so if you opt to visit the camera obscura that sits at the top.
Taberna Casa Manteca
Taberna Casa Manteca – known locally just as Bar Manteca, or Lard Bar – is a local classic and a Cádiz institution. Run by two brothers, the sons of a matador, the bar serves traditional Spanish meats and cured pork in all forms; from jamón to salchichón through to chorizos. The lomos hang high above the bar and are served to you without fuss, sliced on waxed paper. As soon as the doors fling open around midday, patrons pack what little space there is inside the bar, many having to spill on into the street, gathering around the few outside tables clutching small glasses of Cruzcampo in clouds of cigarette smoke.
Inside, the two brothers work the bar with incredible efficiency, taking orders from half a dozen people at a time, chalking up their tab (quite literally, with chalk) on the bar before dashing to the kitchen and returning with plates full of meat. it’s a raucous mass of both locals and tourists vying for space at the counter. The place is so busy that beers, wines and plates of food are passed from the bar, over the customer’s heads and through the crowd to their intended owner.
Read More: On the Tapas Trail in Cadiz
Sample Craft Beer at Cerveza Maier
The only craft brewery to be located in Cadiz itself, Maier has been a staple in the city since the arrival of Carlos Maier in 1867 and the founding of his ‘Factory of Beer, Soft Drinks, Seltz, and Soda Waters’. Over time, the soft drink arms of his company were gradually absorbed by multinationals but the small craft brewery bearing his name can still be found in Cadiz, down an alleyway in the shadow of Torre Tavira. Its lasting legacy with locals is mostly down to the beer’s high-quality ingredients and the traditional methods of brewing that are still used today, 150 years after Carlos mashed his first grains.
Tours of the brewery take place each weekday (reservations need to be made on Saturdays and Sundays) where you will be taken through the production process and offered samples of 4 different beers. The tour costs €15 per person and lasts around an hour and a half.
Read More: A Craft Beer Guide to Cadiz
La Viña
Although it is only relatively small, Cadiz’s old town is split into a variety of barrios all with their own unique atmosphere and identity. There’s El Pópulo, the oldest part of Cádiz, where boutiques and chic bars cluster around the base of the city’s great Santa Cruz cathedral, or San Carlos, overlooked by the port and densely packed with beautiful 18th-century townhouses on palm-lined streets.
Some of the city’s more vibrant neighbourhoods are tucked away at the edges of the tourist hotspots. Santa María, the gipsy quarter, is a little run-down, but home to the flamenco centre and a number of great bars, while La Viña, the old fishing quarter on the western edge of the peninsula, has a reputation for great nightlife, parties, and wonderful tapas bars such as the very traditional Taberna Casa Manteca and Bar La Tabernita alongside more modern eateries like Restaurante El Faro de Cádiz.
Despite being popular with tourists, La Vina is still very much a residential neighbourhood and great joy can be found in wandering through alleyways of colourful townhouses while seeking out a local sherry spot or stumbling upon picturesque squares like Plaza Tío de la Tiza.
Taberna La Manzanilla
Taberna La Manzanilla hasn’t changed much since it first opened its doors in 1942. This dimly-lit sherry tavern is dominated by huge oak barrels stacked high behind the bar, which owner Pepe Garcia, grandson of the original proprietor, stands behind while polishing glasses while sipping liquor tapped from a 500 litre cask. You will usually find him dressed in a white overcoat that makes him look more like a smiling pharmacist than a purveyor of alcohol.
There is nothing but sherry on the menu but it comes in a bewildering array of varieties. Each one is served in a small glass with a side of two olives and Pepe will diligently chalk your tab directly onto the countertop in front of you.
Cádiz Museum
Cadiz has a storied history. Founded in 1000BC, it is thought to be Europe’s oldest continuously inhabited city, occupied first by the Phoenicians, the Romans and then the Arabs who called it Gadir, Gades, and Qadis respectively. Cadiz is the city from which Columbus’ 2nd and 4th voyages were launched and, during its heyday of the 18th Century, the Cortes of Cádiz produced the first written Spanish constitution on 19 March 1812, regarded as the founding document of liberalism in Spain.
With this in mind, it is no surprise that the Museo de Cadiz is packed with all manner of wonderful archaeological artefacts. Most notable of all are the two Phoenician sarcophagi and the series of Zurbarán saints from the charterhouse of Jerez.
Alongside its collection of objets, the museum also houses 8 gallery room that cover paintings from the 16th to the 20th centuries.
Teatro Romano de Cádiz
Not all of Cadiz’s archaeological wonders are sealed behind the walls of museums. Many can be seen while wandering the city streets. One such wonder being the Roman Theatre of Cádiz, tucked away in Barrio El Pópulo (with some of the site remaining hidden beneath the neighbourhood’s streets) just a short walk from the Cathedral.
Constructed around 70 BC by Lucius Cornelius Balbo – an adviser to Julius Caesar – when Gades achieved the status of a federate city of Rome and was extended to a new neighbourhood known as Neápolis, which would have a theatre, amphitheatre, Roman circus and multiple temples. Unfortunately, the theatre was abandoned in the 3rd century AD. It was looted throughout the following centuries, although parts of the structure were integrated into medieval Cadiz and used as stables and warehouses.
It is the second largest theatre built by the Romans in Spain and although its existence was known through old documents, it wasn’t uncovered until excavation work began in 1980.
Mercado Central
A feast for both the eyes and the tastebuds, Mercado Central is housed inside a former convent in an open courtyard surrounded by ornate pillars. Here you can watch as the workday unfolds; chorizo and jamon are hung like meaty bunting above counters, ham is sliced razor thin and crates of squid are cleaned of their black ink before being displayed in troughs of crushed ice. Numbered stalls line the perimeter of the market so you can pull up a seat away from the chaos of locals haggling over the latest catch from the Bay of Cadiz and instead, sample some small plates of cheese, olives or tapa while enjoying a mid-afternoon sherry or caña.
Just outside of the market you will find Plaza Topete, known locally as Plaza de las Flores due to it being dominated by colourful bunches of flowers that explode in a riot of colour from the doorways of the stalls that line the square. Make sure to stop off at Freiduría Las Flores. Here you can stand around the packed, horseshoe-shaped bar and feast on tapas of freshly caught, succulent dogfish, anchovies swimming in oil, or crisp, battered shrimp for as little as 2 euros a plate.
Peña Flamenco la Perla
Although it may be disputed by Andalusia’s other cities, Flamenco is thought to have originated in Cadiz and remains an integral part of its identity. Peña La Perla on Calle Carlos Ollero is the most popular spot to catch a show. They put on 2 to 3 performances per week with a cast made up of both established dancers and up-and-coming performers from the local flamenco academy. This may not be the authentic, intimate flamenco that drifts from the windows of backstreet bars in Seville’s Triana neighbourhood but they know how to put on a show. Up to half a dozen dancers can take to the stage at one time, stamping and swirling to the sound of intricately plucked guitar strings.
The venue features a bar and a small tapas menu.
See the City's Castles
Cádiz’s two castles bookend either side of the pretty La Caleta beach. Sitting at the north end of the bay, the star-shaped Santa Catalina Castle is the oldest in Cadiz, its foundations being laid in 1596 under the orders of Philip II after the city succumbed to invasion and occupation by the Anglo-Dutch army. In time it has been a fortress and a prison but today its wonderfully intact structure plays host to summer concerts in its courtyard while the sparse rooms are used as exhibition spaces.
At the southern end of La Caleta, Castillo de San Sebastián is accessed via a stone walkway that snakes out into Cadiz Bay towards a rocky headland. This small island was historically the location of a temple of Kronos, the Greek god of the Titans and father of Zeus. A watchtower was then constructed here by the city’s Arab occupants and, in the 15th century, a small chapel was erected. It is thought that in 1457 a Venetian ship took refuge on the island due to a plague epidemic. The sailors restored the tower and built a chapel dedicated to San Sebastián. The arms of the city of Venice were carved here in recognition of Cádiz hospitality.
Work on the current structure started in 1706 with the long boardwalk being added in the 19th century to connect the castle to the mainland. This walkway makes for a romantic stroll at sunset after a day of sunbathing on La Caleta.
Where to Stay in Cádiz
Hotel
Hotel La Catedral
Sitting in a prime location In Cadiz’s old town overlooking Cadiz’s Baroque and neoclassical Cathedral, Hotel La Catedral has 14 rooms spread over four floors of this beautifully renovated historic building. The hip and laidback roof terrace has a rooftop pool with unparalleled views of the vibrant, bustling Plaza de Catedral.
Hotel
Parador de Cádiz
There are no shortage of historic hotels in Cadiz but if you are looking for something a little more modern and chic, then the stylish, light-filled Parador de Cádiz should be your first choice. Sandwiched between Parque Genovés and La Caleta beach with views overlooking the Bay of Cadiz, this stunning hotel is packed with luxurious facilities including a spa, gym, and pool.
Hotel
Hotel Boutique Convento Cádiz
An historic hotel housed in a former 17th-century Dominican monastery, Hotel Boutique Convento Cádiz is a serene oasis of calm in the centre of Old Town Cadiz. While the monks have long since left, much of the building’s original features remain, with decorative religious motifs, ornate chandeliers and heavy wooden doors standing side by side with contemporary modern art.
When is the Best time to Visit Cádiz?
Located on the Spain’s southern coast, the cool sea air that whip’s through Cadiz’s streets often gives it a slightly cooler climate than that found inland, but this is still the Mediterranean and so you can expect mild winters and hot summers. Temperatures can reach the mid-30s during the months of July and August so the shoulder seasons are best, allowing you to beat the heat as well as the crowds.
One exception to the rule is Cadiz carnival, mainland Spain’s most rambunctious celebration, that occurs each year from Ash Wednesday and lasts for 10 days. During this time the streets erupt with music and the locals don their finest fancy dress costumes (known locally as tipos) for a fortight of dancing, drinking and all-round debauchery.
However, festivals can be found throughout the year in Cadiz. Holy Week sees much more sombre parades wind their way through the streets of the old town while on the Night of St John each 23 June, locals light bonfires in the city’s plazas to celebrate the beginning of summer.
Getting to Cádiz
Cadiz is in Andalusia, on the southern coast of Spain, and despite being a long, 650 km from Madrid and 120 km south of Seville, the city is well connected to both by Spain’s extensive road and rail network. This makes it easy to reach from anywhere in Andalusia for either a short day trip or a weekend city break.
Visiting Cádiz by Train
Travelling by rail in Spain is a great option thanks to the country’s high speed rail service and Cadiz is easily reached by train from all of Spain’s major cities. The journey time from Jerez to Cadiz is a mere 40 minutes, while the journey from Seville can be as little as one and a half hours. Journeys from both Madrid and Malaga will take a little longer, clocking in at around 4 hours to 4 and a half hours. The station in Cadiz is located in the city centre, just outside the old town walls.
Visiting Cádiz by Bus
You will find the Cadiz bus station next to the train station and it offers a good range of regional connections. Costa Sur provide a regular service between Seville and Cadiz, taking approximately 2 hours, while a trip to or from Madrid will require you to take a combination of Altaria and Avant buses.
Visiting Cádiz by Air
There are 3 international airports within easy reach of Cádiz: Jerez, Seville, and Malaga. Jerez is served by Ryanair, Vueling, and Iberia and is just 44 kilometres to the north of the city. The airport is well-served by Renfe trains and local buses.
Seville Airport is larger offers a greater range of flights to European destinations so, for most people, is the most convenient port of call. Trains run frequently from the city’s Sevilla Santa Justa station.
