Being one of the driest and most inhospitable places on earth doesn’t necessarily mean that the area surrounding San Pedro is bland; Some of the South American continent’s most jaw-dropping, otherworldly landscapes can be found here, from salt flats ringed by towering, snow-capped volcanoes to fields of bubbling geysers and rock formations that wouldn’t look out of place in a Dali masterpiece. Then there is the wildlife. Although not many species can survive in such conditions, there are some that thrive. Three different species of elegant pink flamingoes make the picturesque lakes and lagoons of the National Flamingo Reserve their home and herds of guanaco wander the salt-crusted valleys.
It’s this spectacular scenery that draws hundreds of thousands of tourists to San Pedro de Atacama each year. What was once a sleepy desert outpost was firmly added to the gringo trail a few decades ago when it was mainly a launchpad for jeep tours to Bolivia’s Salar de Uyuni. Now it is one of Northern Chile’s main tourism hubs, and despite the rapid development cramming the once quiet abode streets with tour agencies, hostels and restaurants that cluster around the town’s pretty plaza and historic church it remains a magical place to visit, a place where you can experience star-filled skies, psychedelic scenery and steaming hot springs.
How to Get to San Pedro de Atacama
Set at an altitude of 7,874 feet (2,400 m) a full 1,150 miles North of the Chilean capital city, Santiago, San Pedro de Atacama isn’t the easiest of destinations to reach. The nearest airport is in the nondescript city of Calama, 62 miles northwest of San Pedro (1.5 – 2 hours away by bus or car) which offers only domestic flights daily from Santiago and several weekly to Iquique, Copiapo, La Serena, and Antofagasta.
Taking the bus from Santiago to San Pedro de Atacama can be a fairly grueling journey taking anywhere between 22 and 24 hours to reach Calama, where you will need to transfer to one of the hourly coaches to San Pedro. However, the level of comfort on buses in South America is much higher than what is seen elsewhere in the world, with food & drink provided and seats that either fully recline, or recline 140 degrees (depending on how much you are willing to pay. Expect a ticket to TurBus to cost anywhere between CH$25,000 and CH$40,000 when booked in advance.
When leaving San Pedro, Calama has good links to the rest of Chile.
From Argentina
The bus journey across the Andes from Salta, Argentina is particularly picturesque but takes upward of 12 hours with additional time to cross the Argentina-Chile border. Andesmar have several buses per week serving Salta and Jujay costing around CH$16,000.
Check prices and availability of buses between Salta and San Pedro.
From Bolivia
There are daily buses from Calama to Uyuni with Buses Atacama 2000. The journey takes around 10 hours and costs around £8 – 10.
Check prices and availability for buses between Calama and Uyuni.
Getting Around
The town of San Pedro is small and easy to navigate on foot. Bikes are available to rent at the majority of the town’s tour agencies or hostels for around CH$7000 per day allowing you to visit sights such as Valle de la Luna and Death Valley without the need to book a tour or hire a car, although trips further afield will be too far to cycle.
Where to Stay in San Pedro de Atacama
Tourism in San Pedro may have originated with the hippies and backpackers that worked their way around the South American continent on the Gringo Trail, but it has since evolved to a place where you can find bougie boutique resorts and luxurious lodges alongside the hostels and guesthouses that have long offered refuge to long-term travellers. Most of these high-end accommodations tend to be located outside of town with spectacular swimming pools, landscaped gardens and sprawling views of the region’s alien landscape. Both Tierra Atacama Hotel & Spa and Explora Atacama come highly recommended.
For the budget and midrange traveller, San Pedro’s price can be a little steep compared to elsewhere in Chile thanks to its remote location. Expect to pay anywhere between 8,000 to 20,000 CLP per night for a hostel dorm while a private room will cost you anywhere from 25,000 CLP to in excess of 30,000.
BUDGET
Hostal Rural
The psychedelic interior design and laid-back attitude of Hostel Rural have made it one of the town’s main backpacker hubs. However, this isn’t a typical party hostel but more of a place to relax, recharge and disconnect.
MIDRANGE
Hotel Pascual Andino
Located in the centre of San Pedro, just 150m from the town’s 16th century Church, this adobe-walled hotel is possibly the best midrange hotel that San Pedro has to offer. Each room is designed in a rustic high Andes style with a private yard, some even having their own small pool.
LUXURY
Nayara Alto Atacama
Tucked away in the Catarpe Valley on the outskirts of San Pedro de Atacama, Alto has been designed to sit sympathetically within the landscape with its stunning Andean gardens being designed by Veronica Poblete, a botanist and former lecturer at Stanford University. All of the luxurious suites have a private terrace while top-notch gourmet cooking that embraces local produce is on display in the on-site restaurant.
The Best Things to do in & Around San Pedro de Atacama
San Pedro itself is a relatively small cluster of dusty adobe streets that is geared mostly to tourists – both of the Chilean and gringo variety – and mostly consists of guesthouses, hostels, restaurants and tourism agencies. Much of the charm and character that it had decades ago has quickly been eroded thanks to rapid development and an increase in tourism.
However, it still has its charms; the lovely plaza and 17th-century adobe church, Inglesia San Pedro, are worth your time and as the cold evening draws in, the town is surprisingly relaxed and peaceful despite its popularity.
Take in the Luna Landscape of the Valley of the Moon
Stargaze with Some of the World's Clearest Skies
The Atacama Desert has some of the clearest night skies in the world and although in most cases the naked eye is more than effective enough for spotting the Milky Way and myriad constellations, a star gazing tour is highly recommended. San Pedro de Atacama Celestial Explorations, run by French astronomer Alain Maury, is one of the most popular agencies, taking travellers deep into the desert where they can get a guided glimpse of nebulae and planets through Alain’s collection of powerful telescopes while avoiding the light pollution of San Pedro town. Tours with Lodge Altitud Expeditions are a little cheaper but consist of smaller groups allowing you to have more one-on-one time with their astronomers.
See the Steamy Eruptions of Geysers del Tatio
The world’s highest geyser field, El Tatio, sits over 4000m above sea level. At 95km away, they’re quite a distance from San Pedro, but seeing the enormous plumes of steam rise and collect above the altiplano in the cold of dawn is a sight to behold and makes the journey worthwhile.
There are 64 bubbling springs in total that spew their gases high in the air, enveloping the backdrop of snow-capped volcanoes in writhing columns of vapour. Tours to El Tatio depart pre-dawn in order to arrive for sunrise so it is worth keeping in mind that temperatures will be shiveringly cold – pack accordingly. Also, make sure to bring a swimsuit as there are geothermal pools at the site.
Take a Dip in Termas de Puritama
Explore the Ruins of Pukará de Quitor
Despite its seemingly inhospitable climate, people lived in the Atacama Desert long before San Pedro grew to become the tourist hotspot that it is today. In fact, they have been here for 10,000 years. This was once prime llama farming territory for Atacameño natives and San Pedro itself was once a major trading post for the Inca Empire. This can be seen in the ancient settlement of Pukará de Quitor, a walled fortress that dates back as far as the 12th century. For approximately 400 years, Pukará de Quitor was under Incan rule with the city’s fortifications protecting the indigenous population from attacks by rival tribes that sought to take advantage of the resident’s advanced knowledge of pottery, metalwork, and masonry.
The city only fell when the Spanish colonialists eventually made their way south, but even then it took the Conquistadors almost 20-years to take the city.
Nowadays, not much of Pukará de Quitor remains other than the base of the city walls and some reconstructed archways, but the site gives a good indication of how advanced this civilization was.
Visit the Altiplanic Lagoons
The numerous altiplanic lagoons that surround San Pedro are a real highlight of the region. Entering Los Flamencos National Reserve, it’s a good idea to arrive early to Laguna Chaxa where you can watch the statuesque flamingoes feeding in the bright blue waters against a backdrop of perfectly conical volcanoes that reflect perfectly in the lake.
Most day trips continue on to the picturesque high-altitude lakes of Lagunas Miñiques & Miscanti, surrounded by pastel-coloured volcanoes and mountains.
Scale Volcano Licancabur
Enormous, snow-capped volcanoes surround San Pedro and the hulking mass of Volcano Licancábur is visible from almost anywhere in the area. Towering above Laguna Verde on the Chile/Bolivia border, its summit crater is said to contain the world’s highest lake and although it is not the most challenging climb in the Andes mountain range it requires an overnight stay in a refugio at 14,500 feet with the overall climb reaching an impressive 19,000.
Local hiking agency Nomade run treks to many of the mountains and volcanoes and mountains that surround San Pedro. For day hikes, expect to pay around CH$60,000 to CH$100,000.
Salar de Atacama
Tours From San Pedro
The sheer number of tour agencies that line the streets of San Pedro can be a little overwhelming but the majority of operators offer very similar tours and prices rarely vary between them. These range from surfing dunes on a sandboard, shlepping up active volcanoes or speeding down treacherous mountain trails on bikes to more sedate evenings of stargazing will sipping local Chilean wine. All of the above attractions can be visited on group tours, usually via buses, meaning that it can be difficult to experience the wonder of the Atacama without crowds.
The quality of service differs between agencies so it is not recommended that you stump for the cheapest on offer; unsafe vehicles and tours that are not responsibly managed can be an issue. Instead, be willing to pay a few extra pesos for a good quality tour that takes its environmental impact seriously and stick to operators that are recommended by other travellers.
crossing salar de uyuni by 4WD
Travelling by land from Chile to Bolivia across the vast, desolate salt fields of Salar de Uyuni is easily one of the most rewarding journeys you can have in South America.
Salar de Uyuni occupies a place that, more than 12,000 years ago, was part of the enormous Lago Tauca which covered the entire southern Altiplano. When the last remaining waters of the lake evaporated, they left behind a 120m deep crust of salt that extends out across almost 10,582 square kilometers, creating an inhospitable alien expanse ringed by glorious snow-capped peaks. During the dry season the salt field glistens like a bright white sheet of freshly laid snow while in the rainy summer months, its surface becomes covered in a thin layer of shimmering water, resembling a giant mirror that reflects the clear, star-filled sky perfectly.
Most trips to Salar de Uyuni last 3 days and 2 nights, travelling from San Pedro de Atacama, across the Bolivian border at the mountain pass of Portezuelo del Cajón, and ending at the town of Uyuni after spending a night and morning visiting the salt flats.
Where to Eat & Drink in San Pedro de Atacama
Despite its small size, San Pedro de Atacama is packed with dining spots thanks to its status as a tourism hotspot. You will find a good selection of international and local cuisine and although nightlife in the town is almost non-existent, most restaurants are licensed and serve good Chilean wine, beers and cocktails.
Baltinache
One of San Pedro’s most-loved institutions, Baltinache is an intimate and elegant restauraunt set within adobe walls decorated with brightly colored paintings where pan pipe music blares out from the open-plan kitchen across the candle-lit tables.
Baltinache prides itself on its ‘indigenous fusion’ menu, a unique take on Chilean cuisine. The menu, which can change daily, incorporates native ingredients cooked using traditional methods, such as smoked chilli peppers, curanto (seafood, meat, and veggies cooked in a hole in the ground), and patasca (pork stew) as well as a selection of barbequed meat or fish.
Where: 2 Domingo Atienza, Antofagasta
When: Weds to Mon 7.30pm – 10.30pm
Adobe
Centred around an atmospheric fire pit and soundtracked by live, local music, Adobe offers up international cuisine alongside firm Chilean favourites like Patagonian lamb and steak a la pobre. If you’re looking to indulge in an evening of cocktails, make sure to stop by Adobe for their rica rica pisco sour.
Where: 169 Caracoles
When: Daily 11am – 11pm
Pizzería El Charrúa
Where: 442 Tocopilla
When: Daily 11am – 12am
Las Delicias de Carmen
Popular with both locals and tourists, Las Delicias de Carmen offers up reasonably priced Chilean homestyle cooking; Think warming soups and stews, roast meats, and an affordable menú del dia. A perfect place for backpackers on a tight budget.
Where: 370B Calama
When: Daily 8am – 11pm
La Casona
Where: 195 Caracoles
When: Daily 12pm – 11pm
When is the Best Time to Visit the Atacama Desert?
Being one of the driest climates in the world, there is very little chance of inclement weather ruining your visit to San Pedro or the Atacama; The Atacama Desert receives less rainfall than any place on earth outside of the poles with downpours averaging around 3 days per year.
The region is warm throughout the year, ranging between 21°C and 25°C, although temperatures do drop considerably after sundown. December through March are the warmest months while May through August is the coolest. The low season coincides with the winter months and you will find that both tour and accommodation prices will drop considerably with the local tours attracting smaller crowds, allowing you to experience the best that San Pedro has to offer without having to compete for views.
The Austral summer (between October and March) is the best time to visit if you have stargazing in mind, with October and November offering the clearest days in the antiplano.
If you are planning to take a tour of the Uyuni Salt Flats after your visit to San Pedro, days are hot and nights are cold all year long, but the amount of rainfall differs. For mirror-like reflections visit during the wet summer months or head there in winter to experience the flats at their driest.
How Long Should You Stay in San Pedro de Atacama?
While there is enough to see and do around San Pedro de Atacama to keep you busy for over a week, the majority of backpackers tend to only stick around for two or three days, packing in all of the sights with a couple of hectic full-day tours before embarking on a Salar de Uyuni tour towards Bolivia.
If your main reason for visiting San Pedro is stargazing, try to schedule a couple of extra days in the town just in case you aren’t blessed with clear skies on arrival.
Useful Information
Avoiding Altitude Sickness
San Pedro de Atacama sits at 2,408 m above sea level so it is not uncommon for visitors to suffer from altitude sickness in the region if they have not yet acclimatised to similar elevations. As a precaution, it is recommended that you attempt to get used to the altitude before hiking venturing to greater heights. Drinking plenty of water and avoiding alcohol is also a good way to limit symptoms.
Money
It is recommended that you stock up on pesos before visiting San Pedro. There are only two ATMs in the town – Banco Estado and Banco BCI – and they quickly run out of cash during busy periods. Luckily most restaurants take card but tour agencies have been known to charge more for non-cash payments.
Pack for Cold Weather
Despite the Atacama desert being one of the driest places on Earth, it can get suprisingly chilly due to its high altitude and lack of cloud cover. Make sure that you pack a good windbreaker as well as warm sweaters and trousers. Layers are your friend. Having said that, the sun can still be powerful here so ensure that you have enough sunscreen.
Park Entry Fees
There is a fee to pay at each of the park entrances, which varies from CH$2000 to CH$11,000 depending on the park.
One Response
we’re (4 of us) planning to travel salta to san pedro by road on a Saturday,,(possibly sunday) February 2024. But from what I’ve read, the 2 bus companies both have departures early Monday wednesday Fridays only..(er why same days??). Any idea of buses departing saturday or sunday next february? Is car + driver an option? Thanks..robin w