It may seem sacrilegious to visit one of the world’s finest wine-producing regions and drink a beer. After all, Italy is not particularly well-known as a beer-producing country, especially when compared to its neighbouring European counterparts further north.
However, despite this long history of wine production and this reputation for being excellent producers of wine over beer, a burgeoning craft brewing scene has developed in Tuscany, as it has throughout Italy. Just a decade ago, there were less than 100 breweries throughout the country, a number that has now grown to over 1000, with almost a hundred found in Tuscany alone.
Here you will find craft beer being referred to as “birra artigianale,” evoking the Italy’s artisan traditions with strict rules determining what can be described as ‘craft’; In 2016, a law was established to ensure that only beers subjected to pasteurization and microfiltration processes can be called craft beer and l independent brewery whose production does not exceed 200,000 hectoliters per year.
Unfortunately, there aren’t too many of these independent breweries to be found in and around the city of Siena and a locally produced ale can be rather difficult to find. I spent a weekend trawling the local bars and pubs to find all of the best places for craft beer in Siena, which you can find below.
Sindie
If you are seeking out craft beer in Siena, Sindie should be your first port of call and is easily my favourite bar in the city. Located on bustling Via Pantaneto, this is Siena’s only dedicated craft beer bar and as such, has the best selection of beers on offer. The extensive tap list has a fantastic selection of international beers that is constantly changing, while there are several fridges fully stocked with cans and bottles of craft beer both from Italian breweries and from abroad.
Where: Via Pantaneto 103b
When: Tues to Fri 4pm – 2am; Sat & Sun 12pm – 2am
Vineria Tirabusciò
While you can be spoiled for choice when it comes to great Osteria’s in Siena, it is worth seeking out Vineria Tirabusciò on the southern edge of the city centre if you are looking for a place to have an afternoon drink. Vineria Tirabusciu is a small and welcoming wine bar where you will find an extensive menu of natural wines by the glass and in the bottle, as well as a simple menu of artisanal cured meats, raw milk cheeses, meat and fish carpaccio, and crostoni.
Thankfully, the owners of Vineria Tirabusciò like to combine their love of wine with a passion for craft beer, collaborating with two Tuscan breweries – Caliber 22 and Chianti Brew Fighters – to ensure that they have a fridge stocked with cans and bottles of everything from classic English and American ales to IPAs, stouts and sours. They will generally have between 6 and 10 different beers on offer at any time.
Where: Via S. Pietro, 16
When: Mon to Weds 12.15pm – 3.30pm & 6.30pm – 10pm; Fri and Sat 12.15pm – 3.30pm & 6.30pm – 10pm; Sat 12.15pm – 3.30pm
San Paolo Pub
At first glance, there may seem like there is nothing particularly special about San Paolo pub. Hidden down a steep side street leading towards Piazza del Campo, this is a typical English style pub that seem to be a dime a dozen in Italian cities; wood paneling on the walls, leather padded booths, and beer-related memorabilia covering the walls.
However, it is worth stopping by for a pint – not only is the beer list generally better than many of Siena’s other bars (although you will find a few mass-produced lagers on tap), head to the back of the building and you will find their balcony which gives unparalleled views of the Piazza and the Torre del Mangia while being much quieter than the restaurants and bars that are accessed from the square itself.
Where: Vicolo S. Paolo, 2
When: Daily 12pm – 2am
Birra Bader
The only true brewery and taproom in Siena’s city centre, Birra Bader’s story began a long time ago, in the middle of the 19th century when German brewer Guglielmo Bader arrived in Tuscany, bringing with him the art of German brewing using the Munich method to brew bottom-fermented, fresh beer.
Unfortunately, the original brewery no longer exists. It was housed in the basement of the Montemaggi theatre which had to be demolished in the 1950s due to its roof collapsing after a heavy snowfall. However, Birra Bader’s bar on via di Pantaneto is a beautiful space where you can sample both their original lager and their stout.
Where: Via Pantaneto 75
When: Mon 6am – 1am; Weds & Thurs 12pm – 1am; Fri to Sun 11am – 1am
Maudit Pub
Like San Paolo, Maudit is another English-style pub. While the pub itself may be nothing particularly special, they do have a relatively good selection of beers both on keg and cask.
Where: Vicolo della Fortuna, 21
When: Mon to Sat 6pm – 2am
