Standing on Black Rock’s vast sands, I watch as small breakers tumble ashore and listen to gusts of wind whistle through the ridges of the sand dunes. Not many beaches in Britain can boast scenery like this; The rugged mountains of Snowdonia provide a towering backdrop while the ancient woods, farmland, and foothills that stand between me and those distant peaks are streaked with the purple of blooming hydrangeas. To add a flourish to this scene, the sands are bookended by two ancient castles; in one direction, the crumbling ruins of Criccieth Castle – both built and destroyed by powerful Welsh princes – stands sentinel on a precipice above the town of the same name, while to the east is the 7-century-old castle of Harlech, built by Edward I during his invasion of Wales that eventually met the same end has Criccieth, falling to Owain Glyndŵr in 140
Sir Kyffin Williams once called the view of Harlech and the Glaslyn estuary “the best view in Europe” and J M W Turner was so taken with the ruins of Criccieth that in 1835, he painted a dramatic watercolour of the castle weathering a storm, which he named Themes of Order and Chaos Pervade. The view itself probably hasn’t changed much since Turner last visited but the atmosphere is certainly different. On this uncharacteristically balmy May bank Holiday weekend, the beach of Black Rock Sands is undergoing an English invasion to rival Edward I’s 13th-century exploits, with hordes of Scousers and Brummies covering almost every square metre of sand.
I find Criccieth itself a little more subdued. For the most part, it is Welsh voices that I hear in the town’s gift shops and cafes (Welsh is now the primary language of 70% of locals here in Gwynedd)) and If it wasn’t for the dramatic, castle-topped headland that splits the town in two, there would be no real standout features beyond the two pretty shingle-and-sand beaches that line its outer edges. It is what most guidebooks would call sleepy, or possibly quaint; a few huddled streets lined with quiet bed and breakfasts, cafes and a few dingy-looking pubs, all pinned between the waters of Cardigan Bay and the foothills of Snowdonia’s peaks. In my opinion, this all works to Criccieth’s advantage. While holidaymakers and day-trippers head to Anglesey, Llandudno and Snowdonia, this little town remains relatively quiet.
Quiet and sleepy are far from dull and soulless though. On the humid summer evening that I arrive, the beach is relatively busy, with a steady stream of kayaks and paddleboards being launched into the chilly bay, while on Criccieth Esplanade old couples share icecreams and teenagers fool around on the pebbly shore. The tea rooms are bustling and the moustachioed gentleman serving delicious looking gelato from a portable cart on the seafront has managed to attract a crowd of avid ice cream enthusiasts.
Instead of joining them for a 99, I gradually make my way to the far end of the sweeping beach, past the dog walkers and weary, muddy-looking post-hike brigade to a building that stands out from the typical terraces, grey pebble-dashed estates and crumbling castles of North Wales. The squat, sprawling art deco building of Dylan’s restaurant, a sharp contrast to the green fields and hills that surround it in brilliant, blinding white, sits alone at the eastern edge of town. The tables of the outside terrace that overlooks the stoney beach are all taken with punters sipping their Saturday night libations and the inside is crammed with customers sampling the restaurant’s acclaimed bistro offerings.
The architecture of Dylan’s is as much of an attraction as the food and drink though; this glass-fronted local icon is known as the Morannedd Café as was designed by acclaimed architect Clough Williams-Ellis, the man behind another of North Wales’ other architectural gems, Portmeirion. I grab a couple of cans of local micro-brewed IPA from the food truck in the car park and settle down to watch the sunset over the bay, illuminating Criccieth Castle and the Llŷn Peninsula beyond. It may be the beer talking, but I can see why Turner was so taken with this view.
Where to Stay in Criccieth
This small corner of the Llŷn Peninsula boasts a number of fantastic beaches and relatively mild water temperatures buoyed by the gulf stream sweeping across the Atlantic Ocean from the distant Caribbean meaning that a constant stream of holidaymakers flock to what has been (rather confidently) dubbed ‘the pearl of Wales’. Because of this, accommodation is abundant, although the majority of rooms are in Holiday cottages and rental flats dotted through the town and in the colourful buildings that line Marine Terrace. However, there are a couple of good hotels and some great bed and breakfasts if you like to avoid self-catering.
Caerwylan Hotel
Situated in a landmark Victorian building overlooking Criccieth beach with views to the castle, the contemporary Caerywlan is one of the town’s only 4-star hotels and has been awards Visit Wale’s Gold Award annually since 2014.
Gwynle Boutique B&B
I enjoy staying at Gwynle Boutique B&B so much that it has been my base for my previous two visits to Criccieth and the surrounding area. While the decor may seem a little dated (think doilies and net curtains – nan chic if you will), it provides everything you could want from a seaside bed and breakfast; friendly owners, fantastically comfortable beds, clean rooms and a hefty breakfast menu. It is also worth noting that the front-facing bedrooms have spectacular views out towards the south end of town.
Where to Eat & Drink in Criccieth
Dylan's
Sitting at the eastern end of Criccieth’s sweeping stone-and-sand beach, the iconic Morannedd Café building was designed in 1930 by acclaimed architect Clough Williams-Ellis, the man behind another of North Wales’ other architectural gems, Portmeirion.
The team behind Dylan’s – who also have restaurants in Menai Bridge and Llandudno – have done a wonderful job bringing the glass-fronted Art Deco styled building back to life. Its stylish interior and diverse bistro menu is a far cry from the days of tea dances that were once hosted on the premises.
Dylan’s is the most popular dining spot in Criccieth so booking is essential. However, if you are just stopping for a drink, you will normally be able to find a seat on the outside deck overlooking Criccieth beach where the tables look out across the bay towards Harlech Castle and the Rhinogs.
Where: Maes y Mor
When: Daily 11 am – 11 pm
Castle Fish and Chips
Despite being nothing more than a standard, local fish and chip shop, you can tell that Castle’s take on this classic seaside staple is a quality one by the length of the queue that spills out of their tiny shop and along a good proportion of Castle St. They’ve been dishing out battered cod for 40 years and have become somewhat of a local institution. I can vouch for them by admitting that I sampled their fish and chips twice over just one weekend.
Where: 5 Castle St
When: Tues to Sun 12 pm – 1.45 pm and 5 pm – 8.30 pm
Cadwaladers
With the queue snaking out of Castle Fish and Chips on one side of the street, look to the opposite pavement and you are likely to see another queue, this time a long line of people waiting for an Ice cream from Cadwaladers. Although there are now 8 Cadwaladers shops across Wales, the company was founded in Criccieth in 1927 by the Cadwalader family who ran the town’s general store.
Cadwalader’s secret formula has changed through the years and I’m not sure if it still contains “6lbs of ‘shan’t tell you’’ and ‘’a great deal of love and care’’ like was noted in the original handwritten recipe, but it is certainly still delicious.
Where: The Iris, Castle St
When: Daily 9.30 am – 8 pm
Tir a Môr
With a name that translates to ‘Land and Sea’, Tir a Môr is an intimate coffee shop and bistro dishing up a good variety of breakfasts each morning (including a hefty Welsh Breakfast), sharing platters, and café staples such as sandwiches, burgers and a range of baked goods like quiches, tarts and cakes to have alongside your coffee.
Where: The Iris, Castle St
When: Daily 9.30 am – 8 pm
Things to do in Criccieth
Beyond lounging on the sand with an ice cream or splashing about in the waves, Criccieth doesn’t have a great deal to offer visitors in terms of entertainment (not that it needs to offer more as ice cream and beaches are both perfectly sound ways to pass the day), however, there are a couple of attractions for those that can tear themselves away from the water
Criccieth Castle
Dominating this small stretch of coastline, Criccieth Castle stands proud on an elevated headland overlooking sweeping Cardigan Bay where the astonishing views from its walls reach far along the Llŷn Peninsula’s southern coast.
It is a sight that is so alluring that even Turner was moved to paint its shadowy ruins in 1835 but its storied history dates back half a millennia before the famed painter even set eyes on the castle’s towers. Construction of the initial structure was started in the 1230s by the illustrious Llywelyn ap Iorwerth (Llywelyn the Great) and completed by his grandson, Llywelyn the Last, who added the outer walls and towers.
Despite the castle’s impenetrable appearance, it was captured by the English in 1283 under the banner of Edward I and remained in English hands until it was finally retaken by another great Welsh leader, Owain Glyndŵr, who promptly burnt the towers and claimed Criccieth for the Welsh once more.
There is a small, informative exhibition in the castle’s ticket office but the main reason for visiting is to witness the views across Tremadog Bay.
Opening Times: Thurs to Monday 10 am – 5pm in summer; Saturday & Sunday 10 am – 4 pm in winter.
Prices: Adults £5.40; Ages 5 – 17 £3.90; admission is free to under 5s.
DAVID LLOYD GEORGE MUSEUM
Criccieth’s main claim to fame is that the town was once home to David Lloyd George, former Prime Minister, wartime Chancellor, and the man largely responsible for introducing National Insurance in an attempt to reduce poverty and unemployment. David Lloyd George actually grew up in the small village of Llanystumdwy, 1.5 miles west of Criccieth and his boyhood home is now part of the David Lloyd George Memorial Museum – the only museum dedicated to the life of a British Prime Minister – where the cottage is furnished as it was when he lived here between 1864 and 1880 and numerous exhibits document the extraordinary life of the ‘third greatest British Prime Minister of the 20th century’.
Other than the museum, there are a few other buildings with a David Lloyd George connected in the surrounding area; the two houses Pen Golwg and Llys Owen in Criccieth town centre were built by Richard Owen, David Lloyd George’s father in law, one of which was the home of the young MP before he became prime minister, and 7 Tanygrisiau Terrace was used as his office while practising as a solicitor.
Opening Times: Daily 11 am – 5 pm
Entry Fee: Adults £6; Over 65 £5; Under 16 Free
The Best Beaches Near Criccieth
The Llŷn Peninsula, North Wales’ most westerly point, is a jagged splinter of land whose cliffs and coves extend out into the Irish Sea, separating Cardigan and Caernarfon bays. It’s these coves, along with Llŷn’s beaches, that most attract visitors. Criccieth, sitting at the most south-easterly edge of the peninsula, is no exception and can lay claim to a number of great seafront spots of its own.
Criccieth's Beaches
Below Criccieth’s Castle are two beaches, separated by the headland and the prominent medieval structure that stands atop it. The western beach is relatively sandy and stretches out along colourful Marine Terrace toward the distant mountains of the Llyn peninsula while the eastern beach is shorter and a little more pebbly but its shallow waters, promenade, and proximity to local amenities make it much more suitable for swimming, kayaking and sailing.
Black Rock Sands
Black Rock sands is a mile and half of wide, open beach backed by rugged dunes with the hills and precipices of Snowdonia towering beyond. From the sands, you can look westward to Criccieth Castle or east across the estuary to Harlech and the Cader Idris range.
Although the beach is free of the pebbles and rocks that cover Criccieth’s two seafronts, much of the sand is firm and compact, meaning that visitors are able to drive towards the sea and park directly in front of the lapping waves without the fear of becoming stuck. Unfortunately, this gives the area the appearance of a car park during the height of summer so if you are wanting to witness Black Rock Sands when it is car-free, you will have to arrive either early morning or late in the evening.
The beach gets its name from the rocky headland at its western reaches where tidal caves and rock pools are gradually revealed as the sea level subsides. It is almost possible to reach Black Rock Sands from Criccieth but the tides and deep water make this a dangerous endeavour. You’re better off wandering along the clifftop Coast Path that cuts inland before descending to the beach from the Black Rock Sands Campsite.
If arriving by car, parking on the beach costs £5 per vehicle.
The Best Walks and Hikes Around Criccieth
The area surrounding Criccieth may not have the mountainous hikes and spectacular climbs to compete with neighbouring Snowdonia, but thankfully, the Wales Coastal path passes straight through the town and provides the opportunity for a number of relaxing and relatively easy hikes along the nearby beaches, river banks, and through the local countryside.
Criccieth to Pwllheli
Despite being a long walk, the route along the Coastal Path to Pwllheli is straightforward and rather easy to follow. Heading westwards out of Criccieth past the pastel houses of Marine Terrace, join the Coastal Path and follow it until you reach the mouth of the Afon Dwyfor. There being no river crossing here, follow the path inland for half a mile to Llanystumdwy and walk alongside the A497 for 2 miles to Afon Wen before the Coastal Path reappears and leads you back towards the coast. Keep on the route as it crosses the Afon Wen by footbridge, through the caravan park and then onto Morfa Aberech beach which runs all the way to Pwllheli. Halfway along the beach the official route directs you inland to Abererch station and suggests a mile and a half walk by the A497 into Pwllheli, as some of the path will be inaccessible at high tide.
Distance: 13 miles (21 km)
Difficulty: Easy
Lynn Coastal Path: Criccieth to Afon Dwyfor Loop
This circular route initially follows in the footsteps of the Pwllheli walk mentioned above, heading inland upon reaching the mouth of the Afon Dwyfor and heading inland to Llanystumdwy. While in Llanstumdwy, it may be worth visiting the David Lloyd George Museum and following the brown sign from the town centre. From the grave you have a few options; you can shorten the hike by continuing along this lane for just over two more kilometres, passing the fishery and eventually reaching the A497 back to Criccieth.
To extend the walk continue northwards from Llanstumdwy along the banks of the Afon Dwyfor towards the B411, although the path loops back on itself back to the starting point before it meets the main road.
Distance: 6.9 miles (11.1 km)
Difficulty: Easy
Moel y Gest
The rugged Marilyn hill of Moel-y-Gest stands at just 263m (863ft) but more than makes up for its lack of height with its long summit ridge that offers wonderful views out across Porthmadog, Snowdon and the Llŷn Peninsula.
The best place to start your walk is at Porthmadog Harbour, following the coastal path south towards Borth-y-Gest before heading up a footpath going north west to the hill summit.
Distance: 6.5 miles (10.4km)
Difficulty: Moderate
Getting to Criccieth
There are around 8 trains per day from nearby Porthmadog to Criccieth train station. These run approximately every 2 hours between 8 am and midnight. Buses between these two towns are much more frequent and take just 15 minutes, although they are a little more inconsistent. Check the Gwynedd Council website for up-to-date timetables.
Porthmadog is the closest town and is relatively easy to reach by rail – it is on the Cambrian Coast Line from Machynlleth to Pwllheli – but travelling by car will make the journey a little easier. The A497/A4971 can be used to reach the north end of the town, which is just 1 mile from the main A487 road. From Snowdonia, use the A498.
Parking in Criccieth
Free, on-street parking is available in much of the town and is the best option if you are planning on staying in Criccieth for a number of days, although these spaces do fill fast on a sunny day when crowds of day-trippers descend on the coast. I found that it was easiest to get a space along Tanygrisiau Terrace in the centre of town or along the east beach’s Esplenade. You will also find a tiny, free car park beside the Blue China Tea Room and Swn-y-Mor restaurant, although this may be for customers only.
For shorter stays, there are pay-and-display car parks at either end of the seafront – one beside Dylan’s Restaurant at the far end of the Esplanade and another one west of the castle, at the end of Marine Terrace – as well as the Y Maes Pay & Display Car Park that is located just off the High Street.
Some council car parks offer free parking from November 1st to February.
