Don’t Fear the Reeperbahn

Known as the 'most sinful mile', Hamburg's Reeperbahn is the city at its most insalubrious and seedy; a place where revellers flock to let loose. However, its St. Pauli location is home a hotbed of political activism, groundbreaking art and a rather famous band.

Neon silhouettes of women in suggestive poses bathed the street in a purple glow. Rowdy crowds of stags and hens milled about beneath the iridescent glow of signs advertising table dances, drag shows and ‘Sexy Sexy Girls’. Football chants and cheesy euro-pop echoed from bars jammed with revellers as groups of costumed ‘lads on tour’ spilt out onto the pavement, half cut and looking for their next watering hole. This is the Reeperbahn; Hamburg’s most notorious street and Europe’s largest red-light district.

neon signs of bars and strip clubs on Hamburg's Reeperbahn

Known locally as die sündigste Meile (the most sinful mile), the Reeperbahn cuts a wide path through the centre of St. Pauli. As with most seafaring towns, sailors would traditionally head into the city to while away their shore leave in the multitude of insalubrious bars and brothels. Shaking off their sea legs by getting their leg over, if you will. Although those days are long gone, the strip clubs and legalised prostitution remain. Down Große Freiheit (“The Great Freedom”) illuminated lettering arches over the road promoting The Safari, the only live sex theatre left in Germany until its closure in 2013, and the Dollhouse, a popular table dancing venue. A few minutes walk from here, tucked away beyond Davidstraße lies Herbertstraße, almost as famous as the Reeperbahn itself. Historically, this was the only area where prostitution was tolerated in Hamburg and even during the Nazi regime it continued to thrive, only now blocked with barricades to protect the sensibilities of passing pedestrians. The barricades are as much a part of Herbertstraße as the women behind the windows, beckoning customers in to pay them a visit. Our tour group watched on as pairs of sniggering men – and it is always men, as women are famously prohibited from entering – squeeze through the chicaning stiles only to emerge a few minutes later, red-faced and giggling harder. It seems that what was once a sordid refuge for sex hungry punters has become more of a tourist sight to tick off on your Hamburg itinerary.

neon lights of strip clubs and brothels on the reeperbahn in Hamburg

Despite the impression I may be giving, it isn’t all seediness and sleaze. A burgeoning foodie scene sees residents and tourists mixing in the Reeperbahn’s pedestrianised central reservation over plates of steaming street food. Nestled between the erotic kinos and sex shops on the street’s eastern side are elegant music halls such as The Operettenhaus and Schmidt’s Tivoli. Well dressed theatre-goers weave between the cosmopolitan crowds visiting the cafes and vibrant restaurants that sit side by side with the dive bars and strip clubs.

As well as the mix of both ‘low’ and high culture, this area is of huge pop cultural significance too. It is here that the Beatles mastered their craft, playing 10 hour shifts night in and night out at the strip clubs of the early 1960s. There is a famous quote from John Lennon, “I was born in Liverpool, but grew up in Hamburg” – and growing up they did, both personally and professionally. I wandered up Große Freiheit in search of the Indra, the club where it all started for the Beatles in Hamburg. I found the place in total darkness with the only indication of its illustrious history a small plaque by the front door. These kinds of markers are scattered all around the Reeperbahn – outside the Star Club, Große Freiheit 36, and the Top Ten Club – a discreet reminder of the greatness that once walked the stages here.

The band are now immortalised in sculpture along with Pete Best and Stuart Sutcliffe at Beatles-Platz, a small square at the foot of Große Freiheit. The illuminated, metallic silhouettes of the Fab Four destined to spend eternity posing for selfies with drunken stags and hens.

a John Lennon Impersonator busking in Hamburg

I found myself back among the party-goers the next morning in the most unexpected of places; the Fish Market. I weaved through the early morning shoppers, salivating over the stalls stacked with rows of fish sandwiches and searching for the source of the coffee aroma filling the air. The barks of loud, brisk German cut across the crowds as seafood vendors, dressed in white smocks, presented their merchandise to the shoppers in the manner of a particularly ferocious auctioneer. People gathered around, seeing it as more of a show than a sales pitch, and the fishmonger plays to them like an experienced thespian. They laugh at his animated delivery and hang on to his every word as he wraps a greasy eel in paper and jokingly hands it to a passing child. He clasps it with both hands and runs away to join his parents, ecstatic with his slippery haul.

A market stall holder selling fish at Hamburg's fischmarket

Carousers returning from the clubs and bars of the Reeperbahn stop by the market to end their night with a final pint by the harbour as shoppers are just starting their day. Swaying and slurring as they try to decide between a smoked mackerel roll or a tray of calamari smothered in a creamy garlic sauce, I couldn’t resist joining them in this most Hamburguese of breakfasts. I stuffed myself with a tray of battered scampi before coyly returning for a huge slice of bread-crumbed cod in a bap.

In an attempt to escape the morning chill I followed the rabble into the 100-year-old market hall, a wonderfully preserved and refurbished brick gem embellished with decorative wrought iron staircases and balconies. Rather than traders and fish stalls, the hall is lined with bars doling out beer to the gathered congregation. A band of middle-aged men were living out their dad rock dreams on stage, the singer doing his best Bon Scott impression to a crowd that was both far too enthusiastic and far too drunk for 7 am.

friends relaxing beside the dock at Hamburg's Fischmarket
signs at Hamburg's fischmarket

This is the strange dichotomy at play in St. Pauli. Among the sex tourists, party goers and stag dos this is a working, living neighbourhood. People shopping for fruit and fish at the market, having an alfresco coffee or attending the theatre while gluttonous hedonism plays out all around them. Nowhere is this split in values more apparent than in Sternschanze, an area just 10 minutes walk from the entertainment district. Tucked between the main avenues of Schanzenstrasse and Schulterblatt you will find sidewalk cafes, stylish boutiques and achingly cool bars frequented by a mix of youthful hipsters, bohemians and the more well-to-do residents.

This is to Hamburg what Kreuzberg is to Berlin – It’s Dalston but with a gritty, revolutionary edge. Walking to Schanze from Feldstraße U-Bahn station I couldn’t help notice the barrage of posters advertising local gigs – mostly punk or metal with a political slant – or the anti-capitalist graffiti daubed on every available surface. At it’s heart, behind the hipster eateries and drinking spots, Sternschanze is a hotbed of left-leaning political activism. This is apparent in the storied history of the Rote Flora. Initially built as a theatre in 1888, it went through a variety of guises before being abandoned. In 1987 plans were made to refurbish the building, much to the chagrin of local residents. Within months the protests grew, culminating in violent assaults by militant groups and all renovation plans were scrapped. Ever since, the building has been squatted, functioning as a ‘community centre’ that offers space for cultural and political events.

Wandering towards the Rote Flora it is hard to see that it is a working counter-cultural hub. The boarded windows and rough sleepers huddled on the front steps give the appearance of a long-disused building. Only the banners draped across its facade betray its recent use. One such banner, taking up the majority of the building’s frontage, was advertising the upcoming and widely publicised ‘Welcome to Hell’ march. 10-foot tall neon letters sit atop the roof spelling out “NO G20” – a reference to the much-maligned G20 summit that was to be held the weekend after my visit. It is clear that the summit was not to be taken lightly by the people of St. Pauli. Every store and bar in Schanze had a small sign in the window declaring “No to G20, save my store” and rather unflattering depictions of Trump, Putin and Erdoğan – a who’s who of controversial figures – were stencilled or painted on every street corner. It is clear that Capitalism is a dirty word in Hamburg and the residents aren’t afraid to let you know.

It was the next day that I attempted to visit the Rathaus, Hamburg’s beautiful neo-renaissance city hall, and found myself among a vast crowd of activists protesting the summit. Thousands of people were gathered, armed with placards, to voice their disapproval. I couldn’t decipher a word of the speeches or chants emanating from the stage but the point was crystal clear; the G20 leaders were not welcome. I stuck around to soak in the atmosphere and enjoy the music of what was a relatively calm event, especially in comparison to the riots that were to follow just a week later.

The split in St Pauli is not only ideological but in some places, physical. Look closely at the ground and you will occasionally see a dividing line marked between the cobbles, on one side an ‘A’ and another an ‘H’ – referring to the two cities of Altona and Hamburg. The neighbourhood first began to develop outside the gates of Hamburg on what was known as Hamburger Berg (or Hamburg Mountain) and close to Altona, then under the administration of the Danish monarchy. The settlement was initially used to house businesses deemed too noisy or pungent for either of the surrounding cities but soon more people settled here; the ropemakers that needed long stretches of land for their work moved in giving the Reeperbahn (literally meaning rope walk) its name, and sailors would stop by the area for ‘entertainment’ during their leave in Altona or Hamburg. Both St. Pauli and Altona were eventually absorbed into the sprawling expansion of Hamburg.

neon signs outside the Grosse Freiheit Club on Hamburg's Reeperbahn

Maybe this is the reason that St. Pauli seems to have its own character, but then again, Hamburg in itself seems unique when compared to the rest of Germany. Disconnected from both Berlin and Munich to the South, it has forged a singular identity – one that is a little more Scandinavian in nature due to the city’s proximity to Denmark. Like most outward-looking ports, Hamburg has welcomed immigrants and sailors for hundreds of years, seeing itself as a gateway to the world rather than a city tied to the dealings of distant Berlin. For centuries as one of Europe’s largest and busiest ports, Hamburg has had connections to 170 countries with which it traded in cocoa, fabrics and tobacco. It has always been a melting pot, with people from all over the world settling in St. Pauli and Sternschanze. Even today, the immigrant population of the city stands at over 15%.

With my short stay in the city, I got the impression that Hamburgers are fiercely proud of both their city and their identity. Anchors and seafaring motifs are everywhere; this is a city that wears its history on its sleeve. It even has its own greeting, “Moin”, meaning ‘hello’ and the word “Quiddje” – a nickname Hamburgers use to categorise the rest of the world’s population – singling them out as different from all others.

People sitting on graffiti steps in St. Pauli, Hamburg

Unfortunately, this is an identity that is gradually being eroded despite attempts to fight the creeping gentrification. The battle for the Rote Flora was just the start – in 2013, the Dancing Towers were built at the eastern end of Reeperbahn much to the dismay of older residents and the proliferation of modern buildings in St. Pauli is being fiercely opposed by groups such as the St Pauli Preservation Society.

street art on a shop window in St Pauli
Herbertstrasse Hamburg

Throughout my time in Hamburg I found myself drawn back to St. Pauli, taken in by its history, nightlife and political outlook. Nowhere else have I found a single neighbourhood that contradicts itself in such a brazen manner, the multiple facets of its split personality coexisting to create a place that is both beguiling and intriguing. I’m sure that at some point I will be drawn back to both it and Hamburg, providing it holds on to its individuality.

clubbers on the Reeperbahn in Hamburg, Germany

David McClane is a photographer and travel writer based in Leeds, UK. Since first picking up a camera on a yearlong journey through Central and South America in 2014/2015, He has carefully documented his travels through almost 50 countries.

18 Responses

  1. Hamburg looks like so much fun. I have a friend living there at the moment and she shared a different perspective of the G20 protests. Neighbourhoods like St Pauli make a city I think. The intersection of communities, visitors and traders makes for the most thrilling melting pot. Thanks for sharing on #FarawayFiles

    1. What did she make of the protests? It would be interesting to hear about them from a local perspective as I only saw what was written in the press. I think I was lucky in that the one I wandered in to was more a platform for Green Peace with live music so was relatively calm.

  2. Your title drew me in. I didn’t have a clue about Hamburg but your post has given me such a comprehensive introduction to the city that I feel I must visit sometime. Loved reading this, thank you. #farawayfiles

  3. The sinful mile…well that does around interesting! AND even more so the fact that women are not allowed. Hmmmm…..we always travel with the kids and as we have to be pretty open with them because nudity is all over art and is more seen in Europe in general that the states where we are from…I think we’ll skip that part. The fish auction, however, looks like a must see!! What a cool experience. Definitely on the list!

    1. I think the majority of the insalubrious stuff is confined to the barricaded street so I think you would be okay – It is not as in your face as places like Amsterdam and the area is mainly seen as a party street with live music venues. The Fish Market was definitely a highlight – It’s crazy to see so many people out and partying at 7am!

  4. Such a fascinating account of your visit to Hamburg, Dave. I knew that St Pauli had a particularly good Christmas Market so I’ve always wanted to visit for that reason. I think I’d have to make a detour to see the fish market too – it looks fantastic. Thanks for sharing on #FarawayFiles

    1. Thank you Clare. I wasn;t aware that it had a well known Christmas Market – I guess that gives me an excuse to go back!

  5. Seeing the red light district reminded me of my time in Amsterdam last year. While it was a great visit, the assumption that I was a prostitute because I was a lone black woman got really old really fast. I’ve heard great things about Hamburg and hated that I didn’t get to go because I immediately departed for Berlin following Amsterdam. I would just have to check out the scene during the day.

    1. That’s terrible that people make those kinds of assumptions. Hopefully you get to see Hamburg at some point and I would hope that you wouldn’t receive the same kind of comments there.

  6. I love Hamburg, it is such a colourful interesting place to visit. My husband and I went a few years ago and we loved people watching especially around the red light area. Though I am pretty sure where we sat wasn’t the fish blow restaurant and only because we would not have been able to afford. I never made it to the Fish Market unfortunately when I was there but wanted to as well.

    1. Yes, the people watching on the Reeperbahn is fascinating – such a mix of different people and it was especially fun to watch all the stag and hen parties!

  7. Ah yes, I remember St Pauli. It’s a very particular atmosphere yes, but you haven’t been to Hamburg properly if you haven’t been to St. Pauli, and there indeed is some excellent street art there!
    #FarawayFiles

    1. I agree, I think that St. Pauli is what makes Hamburg so great! I actually spent most of my time in the city there, exploring the art and music!

  8. Wow, an interesting place to explore the foodie scene… he he… But this is the most aesthetic and unsensational depiction of a redlight area I have ever seen. Wasn’t aware of the Beatles connection, that’s great to learn.

  9. I love that you can seek out a decidedly “seedy” area of a city and show just how beautiful it can be. And that Trump/Kim Jong Il graphic is hilarious!

  10. Europe’s largest red light district? I thought its in Amsterdam! This is news to me!
    It survived thru the Nazi regime and world wars? Whoa! I guess its a must visit place then!
    The sculpture of Beatles is interesting! Over all the whole city is filled with so much vibe!

  11. Another excellent and well-written post Dave. I’ve never been to Hamburg, but you’ve perfectly captured through text and photos its charm and real eccentricity of the place. Red light districts always seem to have a buzzing atmosphere and is great for taking photos, especially at night. Love ‘Beatles Platz’ it seems only fitting seeing as Hamburg had such a huge influence on the band. I’d love to see St Pauli for myself one day, thanks for sharing.

    1. Thank you so much Lisa! Hopefully you will get to visit at some point – it is such a unique place and you’re right, the atmosphere is wonderful. I was hoping to get to see more Beatles history on a Beatles themed tour but unfortunately I didn’t have the time!

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